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Ressence and The Armoury Team Up for the TYPE 9 Scattering Sun (Live Pics) Worn & Wound
Ressence Sep 10, 2025

Ressence and The Armoury Team Up for the TYPE 9 Scattering Sun (Live Pics)

There’s something exciting about seeing two brands you admire collaborate, especially when those brands represent relatively different aesthetics, if shared sensibilities. So, when we heard that Ressence, the independent watch brand known for its unique ROCS dial displays and futuristic aesthetic, was teaming up with The Armoury, a traditional menswear retailer and tailor, our collective interest was piqued. And the result is, well, oddly exactly what one might expect: a more formal take on Ressence’s most wearable watch to date, the TYPE 9. Called the TYPE 9 Shattering Sun, it meets the two brands in the middle. The TYPE 9, which came out at the end of last year, is the smallest Ressence in diameter, and very thin at 39mm x 42.5mm x 11mm. Additionally, it’s one of the lightest at 39 grams for the head. Unlike other Ressences, it pushed the minute index from under the glass to an external bezel, which further compresses it visually. I reviewed that watch earlier this year and was taken with its wearability. It puts the unique aesthetic and dial display Ressence is known for into a form that would be easy to wear daily. Identifying this, the ever sartorially-savvy and horologically inclined Mark Cho, founder of The Armoury, took the TYPE 9 and remixed it to lean toward dress watch aesthetics, and, more importantly, work with a suit. The dial, originally in silver or teal, has been rendered in warm, copper-toned salmon with a subtle sandblast finish. The explorer-esque...

Hands-On: Renaud Tixier Introduces the Monday Organica by Oliver Vaucher, a Visually Stunning Solution to a Horological Problem Worn & Wound
Sep 5, 2025

Hands-On: Renaud Tixier Introduces the Monday Organica by Oliver Vaucher, a Visually Stunning Solution to a Horological Problem

Our first meeting at thai year’s Geneva Watch Days might turn out to be one of the best. Renaud Tixier launched during Watches & Wonders week of 2024 with a bold idea: seven revolutionary horological creations, released in a series of watches that will take nearly two decades to complete. Their first watch, the Monday (guess what the others will be called) is an attempt to solve the problem of the micro-rotor. While these small, often heavy rotors are wonderful for creating automatic watches that are nearly as thin as manually wound watches (and for showing off elaborate movement decoration) they are inherently inefficient. The Monday seeks to solve that problem with a completely new horological invention.  The Renaud of Renaud Tixier is Dominique Renaud, the legendary watchmaker who was one half of the famed Renaud & Papi firm, who carved out a niche for themselves in the 1980s and 90s by creating ultra high end complications for the most prestigious brands. Renaud Tixier works along similar lines, but of course is a brand unto itself, and Renaud seems free to pursue whatever horological problem solving might be of interest to him. These watches, while incredibly beautiful, are ultimately for the hardcore movement nerds among us.  The innovation of this first Renaud Tixier caliber is in the behavior of the micro-rotor. The brand refers to it as “the Dancer” because of the way the mechanism seems to dance at even the slightest jostle. Renaud Tixier’s micro-rotor ...

H. Moser & Cie. has a New Take on the Wandering Hours SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie has Sep 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. has a New Take on the Wandering Hours

Schaffhausen-based H. Moser & Cie. returns to a complication it once offered with the Pioneer Flying Hours, a new take on the wandering hours. The watch indicates the minutes on a central ring, while the hours seemingly jump from one window to the other. With this intriguing new display, the Flying Hours might just be being one of the most interesting jumping hours on the market.  Initial thoughts The Pioneer Flying Hours is not Moser’s first attempt at the wandering hours: the Endeavour Flying Hours was launched some seven years ago and an update on the historical complication. With new Pioneer, however, Moser manages to capture the mystique of both early wandering hours and mysterious clocks with its darting, wandering display. It is a tidy and admittedly novel reinterpretation of the wandering hours, which will surely appeal to collectors. There is something poetic about the minutes scale moving continuously across shuttered apertures, its sweep much like a bridge between points in time, here represented spatially. The combination of the sporty and large Pioneer case is also odd with the wandering hours, historically a complication associated with more formal, slim cases. At almost 43 mm, the case is large even for a sports watch. And to nitpick: if there is anything objectionable from the get-go, that is the name. Strictly speaking, “Flying hours” describes a revolving platform that is only supported from below - like a flying tourbillon. Here the hour disks a...

In-Depth: TAG Heuer Achieves Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Achieves Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation Sep 4, 2025

In-Depth: TAG Heuer Achieves Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation

TAG Heuer is marking the rollout of its new-and-improved, and in-house, carbon hairsprings – timed to coincide with the 350th anniversary of the hairspring’s invention – with a pair of chronographs: the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring. More than just two new watches, the TH-Carbonspring is a notable technical achievement that might promise an entirely new generation of TAG Heuer movements equipped with oscillators that boast all of the advantages of silicon, but with added robustness. Protected by several patents, TH-Carbonspring is also the result of a fascinating process of research and development to overcome a surprising problem. Kitted out in carbon composite dials and cases, the two watches are centred on TAG Heuer’s latest-generation carbon-nanocomposite balance springs, with each being a limited edition of just 50 pieces Initial thoughts Both models serve as a launch platform for TAG Heuer’s improved and industrialisation-ready carbon hairspring. While the brand has been flirting with carbon hairsprings since 2019, its use of the technology has been intermittent and on limited scale. TAG Heuer explains previous attempts at carbon springs were not up to the brand’s standards, which is to say the hairsprings did not perform as expected and could not be produced at scale. The new TH-Carbonspring indicates TAG Heuer has perfected the technology to make reliable hairsprings, which m...

What is a Chronograph Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 3, 2025

What is a Chronograph Watch?

Chronograph watches are among the most popular styles of timepieces: iconic models like the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, TAG Heuer Carrera, and Breitling Navitimer, for example, have become some of the most famous and collectible watches in the modern era and have contributed to the enduring appeal of the chronograph to generations of enthusiasts. If you're new to the watch game, however, you might be wondering not only what all the buzz is about but what these watches actually do that makes them so special. Read on for a comprehensive primer on chronograph watches, from their earliest ancestors to the most ambitious, avant-garde timekeeping technology available in chronographs today. Chronograph vs. Chronometer As I explore in depth in our guide to chronometers, one of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: Chronometer and Chronograph. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. The terms are not interchangeable but they are also not mutually exclusive: a watch equipped with chronograph functions can also be a chronometer if it has met a s...

First Look – The Robot-Themed Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R Edition Monochrome
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R Edition Sep 2, 2025

First Look – The Robot-Themed Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R Edition

As its name suggests, the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R is an evolution of the dial-side split-seconds chronograph presented in 2021. You might be wondering what lies behind the cryptic R.U.R acronym? Well, the word “robot” comes from the Czech “robota,” meaning “forced labour” or “serfdom,” and it was popularised by another famous Czech-born personality with […]

Introducing – Redesigned Inside and Out, The new Longines PrimaLuna Moonphase Automatic Monochrome
Longines PrimaLuna Moonphase Automatic Longines Aug 29, 2025

Introducing – Redesigned Inside and Out, The new Longines PrimaLuna Moonphase Automatic

Longines introduced its PrimaLuna collection of women’s watches in 2009 with a name designed to evoke the romantic nature of the Moon. However, unlike the PrimaLuna time-and-date models powered by automatic calibres, the PrimaLunas featuring moon phase complications were fitted with quartz movements that might not appeal to women who prefer mechanical movements. For 2025, […]

What is 5 ATM Water Resistance? Watches’ Depth Ratings Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 27, 2025

What is 5 ATM Water Resistance? Watches’ Depth Ratings Explained

Watches differ widely not only in their designs, materials, and functions but also in their ability to resist the detrimental effects of water and moisture. Some watch enthusiasts, especially those who wear their timepieces for diving, know exactly what they're looking for in terms of waterproofing, but many others might be unsure exactly how safe it is to wear their watch in the swimming pool or even to wash the car. What do watches' water-resistance ratings like 5 ATM or 10 ATM mean in the real world, and how exactly do industry terms like "bars" and "atmospheres" help you determine how waterproof your watch is? Here we address some commonly asked questions about water resistance in watches and break down what the most common depth ratings mean in practical terms.  What was the first water-resistant watch? Since the invention of the wristwatch, watchmakers have been coming up with solutions to address an inconvenient reality: namely, that water and tiny mechanical parts, such as those inside a watch movement, simply do not mix. The technical challenge of making a portable timepiece that could withstand exposure to water became even more prominent in the mid-20th Century, with the rise of diving as a tactical and eventually also a recreational pursuit. The first innovator to seriously take up the gauntlet was Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, who developed the now-famous Oyster case in 1926. Its groundbreaking design combined a threaded, hermetically sealed caseback and a cro...

Back To Basics: Five Of The Best Practices For Watch Ownership Fratello
Aug 23, 2025

Back To Basics: Five Of The Best Practices For Watch Ownership

Welcome to another installment of Back To Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our lovely shared hobby. This time, we’ll take a look at five of the best practices for watch ownership. This is how to treat your watches and the hobby itself to maximize joy and minimize stress. As always, this might all […] Visit Back To Basics: Five Of The Best Practices For Watch Ownership to read the full article.

Louis Erard Introduces the Gravée Main, with a Fully Engraved Case Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces Aug 22, 2025

Louis Erard Introduces the Gravée Main, with a Fully Engraved Case

Of all the artisanal specialities in watchmaking, case engraving has to be among the most obscure and unheralded. I think there are a few reasons for this. One, the dial is where the action is on most watches, and applying a time consuming artistic craft on the case might be seen by some watchmakers as a waste of valuable time. Another factor is that to a large extent, we’ve all been trained to appreciate a particular type of case finishing. We see crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and that registers as being of a certain level of quality that we expect in a luxury watch. If those elements aren’t there, even if they’re substituted by something that might be visually striking, our reptile brains feel like there’s something missing. The latest in Louis Erard’s ongoing Métiers d’Art series, however, is a good opportunity to appreciate complex case engraving in a new way.  The whole idea behind how Louis Erard approaches Métiers d’Art, and to a certain extent the brand’s focus more generally, is to make craft accessible. The new Gravée Main is perhaps their most ambitious attempt in this area to date. Virtually every steel surface (the case, bezel, lugs, crown, and buckle) is hand engraved. According to the brand, each watch takes upwards of 50 hours to engrave by hand, and only 99 will be made.  Engraving is one of those things that really comes alive when you look at it closely and imagine that painstaking work that went into creat...

Watches, Stories, and Gear:  World Record Gear, a Massive Chocolate Watch and the Re-appearance of Daniel Day-lewis Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin You Won’t Wear But Aug 16, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: World Record Gear, a Massive Chocolate Watch and the Re-appearance of Daniel Day-lewis

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear.   An Ulysse Nardin You Won’t Wear, But Might Eat     View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Amaury Guichon (@amauryguichon) Amaury Guichon, AKA “The Chocolate Guy” has gone viral once again. Known for creating hyper-realistic sculptures from chocolate and other materials, Amaury faithfully recreated an Ulysse Nardin Freak One from scratch. The larger than life sculpture appears to be roughly 3 feet tall, with a diameter that would be better measured in feet rather than millimeters. While you’d need an absolutely massive wrist to wear this one, it looks absolutely delicious.  New Shades of Peak Design For years, Peak Design’s pursuit of timeless products has yielded a classic color palette for our bags and photo gear. Shades of black, tan, and grey have dominated the catalog with occasional limited releases in various colors. While these colors served as a foundation for the brand, Peak Design has made a statement: “ …timeless doesn’t have to mean dark and muted. Timeless can still be bold. And frankly, it’s about time we did that.” In a recent but unexpected color expansion, the team added four new colorways across 75 different product ...

An Inside Look At The New Glashütte Original Dial Manufacture Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original Aug 14, 2025

An Inside Look At The New Glashütte Original Dial Manufacture

Here’s the headline: this summer, the namesake and flagbearer of the Glashütte watchmaking region, Glashütte Original, has opened its own, dedicated dial manufacture. You might be asking yourself, “I thought G.O. already did everything in-house, what’s the deal?” And while you would be right to ask, the basis of the question is also correct. Glashütte Original, while owned by Swatch Group, does, in fact, “do everything in-house,” or to be more specific: 95% of everything. However, up to this point, the dials for G.O. watches were made in a facility six hours away in Pforzheim. This move has brought production to a 5,000-plus-square-foot facility that is just a quick float down the babbling Muglitz River - 450 meters, to be exact. In a market where collectors are placing increasing importance on “in-house” everything, this is a big move for a company that has been preaching the Homemade Gospel from the Saxon hilltops for decades. Not only does this allow for more agile production timelines, but it increases G.O.’s production capabilities as a whole. G.O. brought me to Germany to see the new facility and to tour the full manufacture as well. In addition to the photos here, which won’t tell the full story, we also have a full video touring the manufacture.   This sort of care for detail and attention to craftsmanship is deeply ingrained in the region, and in Glashütte Original as a brand. The people at this manufacture take the namesake very seriously...

Saying Goodbye Worn & Wound
Aug 7, 2025

Saying Goodbye

It’s time to say goodbye. As the poet Rose once said, “nothin’ lasts forever, and we both know hearts can change.” That watch you once lusted after, saved for, and finally bought has run its course. It’s time to let it go, as sad as that might seem. You no longer reach for it in the morning. You no longer post it to Instagram. It has been absent from recent meetups, making room for newer pieces. It just sits there, reminding you of who you used to be. Once, you thought, this is it, I’ve found my one and only. A watch that represents me: my specific tastes and knowledge. It says, “I’m no casual watch fan,” but it isn’t flashy either. You’re an enthusiast, not a hype beast. This watch is for you, and those like you. A badge that says “I’m an insider.” You still like the watch and feel proud to own it, but you have to face the fact that you’ve outgrown it or changed altogether. you know the time has come You stop and think, “it’s not fair to the watch. A watch like this shouldn’t be collecting dust in a box or living its life in the darkness of a drawer.” You want to set it free. You say to yourself, “Hey, maybe there is someone who was just like me X years ago when I first bought it.” Younger, bright-eyed, still discovering who they are, horologically speaking. Maybe this watch can do for them what it did for you. After all, it wasn’t easy to get. You spent time finding it, waiting for the right reference in the right condition to ...

Bulova Introduces a New Lunar Pilot with a Timascus Dial Worn & Wound
Bulova Introduces Aug 7, 2025

Bulova Introduces a New Lunar Pilot with a Timascus Dial

Cosmically speaking, 150 years might not be a very long time, but in the relatively young scale of recorded human history, it’s a mighty long while indeed. Airplanes, space travel, personal computers, microchips, sliced bread, washing machines, and the Internet were all invented within the past 150 years or so, making it even more impressive when a brand reaches the same level of longevity. This year, Bulova has done just that. To celebrate their sesquicentennial, the American watchmaker has a new release based on an icon of their past: the Lunar Pilot Timascus. The new release calls back to the original watch of the same name-the Lunar Pilot Chronograph-which was created in 1971 and ultimately worn on the moon. In the futuristic year of 2025, Bulova has teamed up with Brazilian artist Thiago Rosinhole to put his signature astronaut character “Budii” on the new Lunar Pilot, furthering the space-faring theme and giving the watch a touch of quirky character on top of historical heritage.  Still, the new Lunar Pilot leans less on the use of the character (who I was admittedly unfamiliar with until the collaboration announcement) and more on a creative use of color to spice up the classic chronograph style seen on other Lunar Pilot models throughout the brand’s history and current lineup. Nestled within a stainless steel case that measures 43.5mm in diameter is the “tiamscus” dial. If you, like me, were wondering what that means, it’s actually a fairly strai...

My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet - But These References Come Quite Close Fratello
Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet Aug 5, 2025

My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet - But These References Come Quite Close

The mighty Rolex Datejust turns 80 this year. That makes it one of the longest continually produced watches out there, which is no small feat. At Fratello, we intend to celebrate with a series of articles on the model, and today it’s my turn to choose my all-time favorite. That’s not an easy task, though. […] Visit My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet - But These References Come Quite Close to read the full article.

Hands-on – The Dashing Retro Allure of the Eberhard & Co. Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée Monochrome
Eberhard & Co. Jul 27, 2025

Hands-on – The Dashing Retro Allure of the Eberhard & Co. Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée

Founded by Georges Eberhard in 1887 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Eberhard & Co. had established itself as a purveyor of innovative, technically advanced chronographs by 1919. Although the independent brand is well-known among Italian collectors, and its Chrono 4 model, with four separate counters inspired by the dashboard of race cars, might resonate with some readers, […]

Watches, Stories, and Gear:  Splashdown With Tudor, Yashica’s City 300 and The OGR2 Worn & Wound
Tudor Yashica’s City 300 Jul 26, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Splashdown With Tudor, Yashica’s City 300 and The OGR2

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. SPLASHDOWN While you might know the story of how the Omega Speedmaster became the official Moonwatch, you might know the story of Navy-UDT Frogman who were tasked with safely recovering astronauts as they returned to Earth. Just as the astronauts relied upon their speedmasters,  the UDT Frogmen had their own piece of critical time keeping kit: the Tudor Submariner 7928. While these divers would preform critical roles in supporting Nasa’s splashdown recovery program, their story remained largely untold, until now. On Thursday, June 24th, Tudor unveiled a short film dedicated to these men, aptly titled “Splashdown: The Little-Known Story of Navy Frogmen and the Space Program”.  Featuring members of the team, their family, and even Jack Carr, the short film can be watched on Tudor’s website alongside various historical images. Little Camera, Big Punch Yashica, a Japanese camera company, has announced their newest compact camera, the City 300.  Similar in size to a point-and-shoot camera or the Ricoh family of cameras, the new City 300 combines a 50MP sensor, a fast F/1.8 lens, and what appears to be a flip/tilt screen; all for an estimated US retail price of $4...

Fratello EDC: RJ Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Porter-Yoshida, Leica, Dupont, Persol, and More Fratello
Jul 26, 2025

Fratello EDC: RJ Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Porter-Yoshida, Leica, Dupont, Persol, and More

It’s funny how one’s everyday carry (EDC) can change in just a few years. Even though I have been applying the “buy once, cry once” philosophy for many years, it seems I cry more often than I would have thought. Many things from my 2022 EDC article have either been replaced or moved to the […] Visit Fratello EDC: RJ Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Porter-Yoshida, Leica, Dupont, Persol, and More to read the full article.