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EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey Time+Tide
May 8, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey

Editor’s Note: I put this list together last August in the hope that I could help people avoid the sort of costly mistakes I’ve made during my watch collecting journey.  Ten years ago there were fairly minimal digital resources for watch enthusiasts to dig into, but today the problem, if anything, is that there is … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” Time+Tide
Omega May 7, 2021

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man”

Action heroes are Hollywood’s idealised version of traditional masculinity. There is therefore a powerful effect when big-screen tough guys sport a nice watch as they kick ass, dodge bullets and save the world. With the James Bond franchise, the Broccoli family created paid partnerships with companies like Omega to be featured in Bond’s wardrobe. But … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 watch photos that leave us with a goofy grin and make us grateful we’ve got wrists Time+Tide
Casio nally though May 3, 2021

5 watch photos that leave us with a goofy grin and make us grateful we’ve got wrists

Online shopping is an incredible thing. You can’t come into physical contact with every new watch release, so poring over press releases and store catalogues has become the only way we can analyse new watches. As a result, scrutinising images is now a hugely important part of our pre-purchase tool-set. Occasionally though, the quality of … ContinuedThe post 5 watch photos that leave us with a goofy grin and make us grateful we’ve got wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new adventures of the Cartier Tank include a solar-powered watch Time+Tide
Cartier Tank include May 3, 2021

The new adventures of the Cartier Tank include a solar-powered watch

One mark of a great dress watch is to what extent it can be dressed up or down, and Cartier’s Tank design is surely one of the best examples. Although undoubtedly formal, there’s something about the clean rectangular motifs that work just as well contrasting with jeans and a t-shirt as it does with a … ContinuedThe post The new adventures of the Cartier Tank include a solar-powered watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Habring’s Personal IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype Ref. 3712 At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII: A Unique Piece Of Horological History Quill & Pad
IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype May 1, 2021

Richard Habring’s Personal IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype Ref. 3712 At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII: A Unique Piece Of Horological History

Lot 165 at Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIII on May 8-9, 2021 is one of the most important prototypes in the history of IWC. A true rarity and a true piece of watch history. It is Richard Habring’s personal Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph prototype. Elizabeth Doerr shares its history and meaning here. And why its creator is parting with it.

The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide Time+Tide
Cartier May 1, 2021

The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide

Paris, Haute Couture and summer on the French Riviera – France has elegance ingrained into its very soul. Wrist-worn style is something we are used to seeing from both Cartier and Chanel, while Hermès has evolved into a serious horological prospect – take their sporty H8-series this year. But for the more budget-conscious, there is … ContinuedThe post The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in Platinum and Turquoise Sells for US$3.14m SJX Watches
Zenith Daytona Apr 23, 2021

Auction Watch: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in Platinum and Turquoise Sells for US$3.14m

The headline lot at Sotheby’s recently concluded Hong Kong watch auction, the unique Rolex “Zenith” Daytona with a platinum case and a turquoise mineral-stone dial – and not a blue lacquer “Stella” as originally believed – just sold for HK$24.375 million, or about US$3.14 million, fees included. The hefty result means the turquoise Daytona is the second-most expensive modern Rolex timepiece ever sold at auction, but just shy of the US$3.27 million record set by the unique platinum Daytona with a lapis lazuli dial that sold at Sotheby’s last year. With the sale of the turquoise Daytona, it means that three of the five unique platinum Daytonas have been sold at auction in as many years, all at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong. One of five The price achieved by the turquoise Daytona is unsurprisingly given its rarity: it is one of a five-piece run of the “Zenith” Daytona in platinum that were reputedly made at the behest of former Rolex chief executive Patrick Heiniger in 1999. All five watches share the same model reference 16516, and are powered by the Rolex cal. 4030 that’s based on the Zenith El Premiro movement. Four of the five are known, with the other examples featuring Tahitian mother-or-pearl, lapis lazuli, and coral dials. The platinum Daytona that was just sold had a turquoise stone dial, rendering it highly unusual as the material has never been used before in the Daytona, and confirming the belief that these watches were a prototype run for the su...

Qatar Watch Club Teams Up with Hermès for Special Edition Arceau SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak X It latest Apr 22, 2021

Qatar Watch Club Teams Up with Hermès for Special Edition Arceau

Since its founding three years ago, Qatar Watch Club (QWC) has collaborated with several watchmakers on special editions that paid tribute to its home country. The first was a Chopard L.U.C GMT with a burgundy dial – the primary colour of Qatar’s national flag – then a Tudor Pelagos featuring the country name in Arabic script, and most recently a Ulysse Nardin Freak X. It latest project is a tie-up with Hermès that resulted in special edition of the Arceau. Limited to 40 pieces, the Hermès Arceau Qatar Watch Club features an ebene, or “ebony”, dial that reflects the shared equestrian history of both the Parisian saddle maker and the Gulf state. Initial thoughts The watch is very much Hermès in nature and execution. Though distinctive, it is discreet. One of Hermès’ most distinctive models, the Arceau was first conceived in 1978, with its asymmetrical case inspired by a stirrup. The italicised Breguet numerals are stylish, giving the watch subtle flair. Equally subtle is the herringbone-textured dial that brings to mind Hermès fabric. The ebene dial colour is noteworthy. Rich in tone when executed right, brown is relatively uncommon in today’s watches, especially when green and blue seem to be the colours du jour. Long a colour associated with horse riding – Hermès saddles and riding boots can often be found in ebene – it is also a popular shade for the brand’s iconic Birkin bags. Coupled with orange accents – the five-minute markers and the...

If you like high horology, you’ll love this cannabis watch that celebrates 4:20 right Time+Tide
Apr 19, 2021

If you like high horology, you’ll love this cannabis watch that celebrates 4:20 right

Kickstarter can be a great place to find the weird and wonderful watches of tomorrow, as new brands battle for funding on what is basically a marketplace of ideas. A new player in the watch game who just hit their funding target is MVMNT, a brand who produces a range of different products with one … ContinuedThe post If you like high horology, you’ll love this cannabis watch that celebrates 4:20 right appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This Rolex scene with Ari from Entourage shows how much the watch world has changed Time+Tide
Rolex scene Apr 16, 2021

This Rolex scene with Ari from Entourage shows how much the watch world has changed

Before anyone gets heated, no I am not about to try and “cancel” Entourage. Whether or not the show would be able to survive the present cultural landscape is an entirely different discussion, and one we are not having here. This is about watches. Recently on Instagram stories, I noticed friend of Time+Tide, Brynn Wallner, … ContinuedThe post This Rolex scene with Ari from Entourage shows how much the watch world has changed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Apr 10, 2021

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL

Most famous for its functional aviator’s watches, most notably the Big Pilot’s Watch, IWC is going even further with the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL, a highly experimental version of the Big Pilot with extreme shock resistance that was tested by the Fracture & Shock Physics Group at Cavendish Laboratory in Cambridge University. The Big Pilot XPL boasts exceptional shock resistance – made possible with advanced and ingenious engineering – and an eye-watering price tag. Initial Thoughts The Big Pilot XPL is certainly an impressive piece of engineering, with its hyper-modern aesthetic being a result of the shock-resistance mechanism within the case. The look is clean and strikingly legible, as a pilot’s watch should be. Despite its looks, the Big Pilot XPL is not even that big. In fact, at 44 mm wide and just over 12 mm thick, it is one of the smaller Big Pilot models to date. This, together with the lightweight Ceratanium case means that it will likely be quite wearable. Highly legible The Big Pilot XPL will retail for CHF80,000, or about US$87,000, an eye-watering price for a time-only IWC, despite all of the engineering inside. However, it might be a bargain from another perspective – this might just be the cheapest watch with a performance comparable to a Richard Mille. That said, ultra-shock resistant watches have rarely performed well commercially, aside from Richard Mille’s multiple creations. In fact, IWC’s sister company, Jaeger-LeCoultre,...

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 SJX Watches
Panerai  seem Apr 9, 2021

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch 43

One of the five makers of the beobachtungsuhr, or B-uhr, supplied to the German Luftwaffe during the second world war, IWC is perhaps best known for its pilot’s watches. And the quintessential modern-day IWC pilot’s watch is arguably the Big Pilot’s Watch, which is modelled on the oversized B-uhr (which translates “navigation watch”). Watches and Wonders 2021 sees a litany of new Pilot’s Watches from IWC, including the Big Pilot’s Watch 43, a more wearable, 43 mm version of its extra-large aviator’s watch that was historically 46.2 mm. The reduction in size is made possible due to the cal. 82100, instead of the seven-day cal. 52110 found in its larger brother. Available with black or blue dials, along with the option of a bracelet, the new Big Pilot sticks to traditional dial colours, with no green on offer, despite the faddish colour being found on the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 that’s being launched at the same time. The Big Pilot Watch 43 in blue Initial thoughts A theme at this year’s Watches & Wonders seems to be downsizing – brands from Rolex to Panerai seem to be responding to rising demand for smaller cases. By shrinking the Big Pilot from 46 mm to 43 mm, IWC caters to those who still want a biggish pilot’s watch, but one that will be easier to wear. Aside from the reduced size, the new Big Pilot 43 has been pared back in terms of design (which is also a consequence of the new movement). Gone are the date and power reserve display ind...

INTRODUCING: The new Zenith DEFY Extreme delivers three titanium-armoured sports watch contenders Time+Tide
Zenith DEFY Extreme delivers three Apr 8, 2021

INTRODUCING: The new Zenith DEFY Extreme delivers three titanium-armoured sports watch contenders

Zenith threw a knockout punch only a few weeks ago with the new Chronomaster Sport, and our enthusiasm is quite apparent when reading Andrew McUtchen’s story here. It’s clear that CEO Julien Tornare and his team are on a roll and determined to continue their momentum. The new Zenith DEFY Extreme range enters the sports … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Zenith DEFY Extreme delivers three titanium-armoured sports watch contenders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what a sports watch costing over $500k can really do Time+Tide
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what Apr 6, 2021

The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what a sports watch costing over $500k can really do

The beautifully convex shape and mind-boggling complexity of the Greubel Forsey GMT Sport is one of the most extreme examples of a sports watch you’re likely to see. While undoubtedly tough, this is a creation from the atelier that questions the very existence of the luxury sports watch genre. After all, is anyone truly likely … ContinuedThe post The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what a sports watch costing over $500k can really do appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How not to talk to total strangers about their watch Time+Tide
Panerai Apr 2, 2021

How not to talk to total strangers about their watch

I was 35,000ft over the Atlantic when I first freaked someone out about his watch. It was in the line for the airplane toilet. A guy was ahead of me, wrestling a full-bladdered toddler. This, I reasoned, is exactly the moment he’ll want a stranger to ask about his Panerai. He’ll tell me the story … ContinuedThe post How not to talk to total strangers about their watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Apple set to release a more rugged Apple Watch Explorer Edition to compete with G-Shock Time+Tide
Apr 1, 2021

Apple set to release a more rugged Apple Watch Explorer Edition to compete with G-Shock

Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry. But not satisfied with its extraordinary dominance, the brand is now reportedly looking to expand its watch portfolio. The company has explored many materials, including aluminum, titanium, stainless steel, ceramics, and even 18K gold. Throughout these designs their case profile has remained largely unchanged, … ContinuedThe post Apple set to release a more rugged Apple Watch Explorer Edition to compete with G-Shock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Studio Underd0g makes the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g Mar 31, 2021

Studio Underd0g makes the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant

Sustainability, veganism and organic materials may be the way forward, but they’re still a foreign language to many of the larger players in the watch industry. But microbrand Studio Underd0g is displaying a more progressive mindset after making the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant skin. Just like a bespoke wristwatch, … ContinuedThe post Studio Underd0g makes the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The watch that got away… Hear our sob stories and share yours at The Breakfast Club #4 on Clubhouse Time+Tide
Mar 26, 2021

The watch that got away… Hear our sob stories and share yours at The Breakfast Club #4 on Clubhouse

Nearly every watch lover will harbour certain regrets. It is inevitable there’s a watch you wished you’d pulled the trigger on – wincing in hindsight that it is not in your collection today. In fact, this is such a relatable aspect of watch collecting that for the fourth weekly meeting of The Breakfast Club on … ContinuedThe post The watch that got away… Hear our sob stories and share yours at The Breakfast Club #4 on Clubhouse appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Death Star Tourbillon By Kross Studio: Star Wars-Themed Central Tourbillon Watch With Rare Kyber Crystal From ‘Rogue One’ Set Quill & Pad
Mar 25, 2021

Death Star Tourbillon By Kross Studio: Star Wars-Themed Central Tourbillon Watch With Rare Kyber Crystal From ‘Rogue One’ Set

Star Wars peeps, this watch is for you! Aside from being a $150,000 watch featuring a central tourbillon in a limited edition of just ten pieces, the Kross Studio Death Star Collector Set comes in an incredible container with one more thing making it irresistible to true Star Wars fans: each watch comes in a set with an authentic kyber crystal film prop from 2016’s 'Rogue One: A Star Wars Story.'

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black SJX Watches
Hublot Mar 23, 2021

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black

With no physical launch event this year, Omega unveiled its new watches in a prerecorded video that concluded with a cameo by its brand ambassador George Clooney. The line up was compact, indicating there will be more new models later in the year. There was only a single Seamaster Diver amongst the new offerings, and it was the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, Seamaster Black Black is typical of Omega in its quality and technology. It’s almost entirely ceramic on the outside, made up of components sintered, sculptured, and sanded with precision. And the Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement within boasts all of the brand’s technical innovations. For a bit under US$9,000, it is a fair deal for the quality and materials. But the all-black look is dated. The pioneer of the look was the Big Bang All Black of 2006, one of Jean-Claude Biver’s opening acts at Hublot. Its success created a wave of all-black watches that lasted for about a decade. And the novelty of the coloured ceramic will be quickly lost if additional variants in other colours of ceramic are introduced, as happened with the Dark Side of the Moon. Black ceramic The dial, bezel, case middle, and case back of the new Seamaster are all black ceramic, specifically zirconium dioxide, or ZrO2. The dial is etched with laser, creating an alternating polished and matte finish, with the polished elements standing out in slight relief. And to prese...

INTERVIEW: Collective™ Horology are reinventing the watch collectors’ club to create truly special collaborations Time+Tide
Mar 22, 2021

INTERVIEW: Collective™ Horology are reinventing the watch collectors’ club to create truly special collaborations

Watch enthusiasm is initially generated by the product – there’s no doubt that the art of watchmaking and the many resulting creations are the main draw that hooks people in. But what really sustains the hobby, and helps it grow, is the sense of community in watches. Within #watchfam there are many collecting groups dedicated … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: Collective™ Horology are reinventing the watch collectors’ club to create truly special collaborations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mar 18, 2021

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands

Christie’s Education, the learning division of the auction house, has just launched Behind the Curtain: Watchmaking Houses, a series of virtual classes catered to beginner enthusiasts that profile the most important watch brands – essentially the names that are typically the most sought after at watch auctions. Conducted by Geneva-based watch expert Antoine Géraud, the weekly courses cover the history, important watches, and key personalities at Patek Phillipe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Cartier. Each lecture is 75 minutes, and recordings of each session will be available for seven days after the class should participants wish to revisit. The programme is essentially a crash course, making it ideal for beginners who want to learn more about key brands. And the length of the lectures seems ideal – punchy and brief, but enough to convey the necessary knowledge. The Patek Philippe ref. 5101P 10 Day Tourbillon Alongside the watch history classes is a separate programme covering the biggest names in jewellery, taught by historian Vanessa Cron. Just like the watch classes, these will go into the stories behind names like Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, and Cartier. With jewellers often being watchmakers as well, burgeoning watch enthusiasts might find the jewellery classes useful too. An Audemars Piguet Grand Complication pocket watch that sold at Christie’s in 2019 The price of a single class is HK$1,200, or about US$150. The ...

BATTLE ROYALE: The best watch media collaborations according to the T+T Team Time+Tide
Oris ed retailers Mar 17, 2021

BATTLE ROYALE: The best watch media collaborations according to the T+T Team

Over the last decade, the watch media has played an increasingly important, and intertwined, part in the watch industry. From increased coverage of newly released watches to publications becoming authorised retailers for brands, the landscape has shifted forever. And out of this paradigm shift, one of the coolest things to be born is the watch … ContinuedThe post BATTLE ROYALE: The best watch media collaborations according to the T+T Team appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.