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Hands-on - The Updated Breguet Marine 5517, Navigating a More Classical Course Monochrome
Breguet Marine 5517 Navigating Oct 12, 2026

Hands-on - The Updated Breguet Marine 5517, Navigating a More Classical Course

Breguet’s maritime pedigree dates to 1815, when Louis XVIII appointed Abraham-Louis Breguet as watchmaker to the French Royal Navy. Although Breguet did not invent the marine chronometer (that was John Harrison), he improved its robustness and precision, enabling sailors to calculate longitude at sea more accurately. It wasn’t until 1990, though, that the brand tapped […]

Introducing: Toledano & Chan B/1 Dazzle Is A Perfect Interpretation Of One Of The Weirdest Camouflage Patterns Ever Hodinkee
Bulgari tried Oct 12, 2026

Introducing: Toledano & Chan B/1 Dazzle Is A Perfect Interpretation Of One Of The Weirdest Camouflage Patterns Ever

What We Know Have you played "hide a World War I battleship?" I mean, who hasn't? It's basically the number two teenage pastime in the United States Midwest and Great Plains, with all those giant bodies of water in places like Nebraska, South Dakota, and the like. No? Okay, well, hiding ships was a life-or-death proposition back in World War I and World War II, and for a brief period from around 1917 to 1918, the answer was not to try to hide them at all. That's where Toledano & Chan got the idea for the new b/1 "Dazzle:" obfuscate, not obliterate.  If the concept of "dazzle camo" sounds familiar, it's because Bulgari tried its own version of this disruptive pattern material (DPM, as it's known in the industry) just a few months ago. We even mentioned this watch coming from Toledano & Chan, which was revealed when it was nominated for a GPHG award. As a refresher, I'm going to paraphrase what I said before.  British zoologist John Graham Kerr proposed (to Winston Churchill in 1914) a DPM designed to change the perceived outline, size, distance, and direction of ships at sea based on the same concept that zebras use to hide their distance and numbers from predators. The idea was convincing enough that a large number of ships were painted, and while some German U-Boat captains did say that the pattern was effective, it's still unclear how true that was. Regardless, radar basically made the whole idea obsolete, and now it's largely an oddity outside the automobile road-test...

World Watch Day 2026: Time as Living Heritage SJX Watches
De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet Oct 10, 2026

World Watch Day 2026: Time as Living Heritage

Today marks the second annual World Watch Day, celebrated on October 10 in a clever nod to the familiar “10:10” depiction of watch hands. This year’s theme, “Time as Living Heritage”, puts the people of Sainte-Croix at the centre of the occasion. A training course at Association Mec-Art Marking the event, our founder SJX participated in a round-table discussion about preserving and passing on the skills of both watchmaking and mechanical art. The panel included De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet and automaton maker François Junod, who helped establish the Association Mec-Art, watchmaker Vianney Halter, The 1916 Company’s Tim Mosso, and Karin Alexandrian of the Musée des Arts et Métiers. Europa Star’s Pierre Maillard moderated the conversation. Denis Flageollet of De Bethune co-founded the Association Mec-Art in 2016 with automaton-makers François Junod and Nicolas Court The organisers, Association Mec-Art and the Musée de la Mécanique d’Art et du Patrimoine de Sainte-Croix (MuMAPS), work to safeguard the traditions explored in our earlier story on the unique skills being preserved in Sainte-Croix. These extend beyond watches to music boxes, mechanical singing birds, and automata. Mec-Art helps keep the skills alive through creative projects and practical courses, while MuMAPS is the local museum dedicated to mechanical art and the town’s heritage. The shared challenge is to ensure that future generations can still make and repair these objects, ...

Introducing: The Bremont Supermarine 500 Full Ceramic In Deep Blue Hodinkee
Bremont Supermarine 500 Full Ceramic Oct 9, 2026

Introducing: The Bremont Supermarine 500 Full Ceramic In Deep Blue

This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. What We Know Under the stewardship of CEO Davide Cerrato, we’ve seen a revitalised Bremont experiment with all sorts of things—jumping hours pieces, meteorite dials, space watches—as well as ceramic cases, especially for its Supermarine dive watch. In 2024, they launched their first full-ceramic watch, the Supermarine 500 Black Ceramic, following up with a Jungle Green ceramic limited edition built to take on the tropics. Now, the British brand has debuted a Deep Blue ceramic Supermarine 500 that’s ready for the depths. While this new colored ceramic Supermarine is a follow-up to the Jungle Green, quite a lot has changed in the Supermarine lineup since its launch, including an upgraded movement with an improved power reserve. It also now sports a wave pattern on the dial rendered in black, which provides good contrast against the white Super-LumiNova (with blue emission), and brings some added texture and depth to the dial. The blue ceramic case measures the same dimensions as the rest of the Supermarine 500 lineup at 43mm across with a thickness of 13mm. It’s rated to 500 meters and also features a helium escape valve on the left side of the case that’s finished in a color-matched blue. The bezel insert is ceramic - it's laser-engraved with embossed numerals - yet both the bezel ring and the crown are titanium, not that you'd immediately clock it. Bremont has nailed the color-matching acro...

T Teddy Baldassarre Excl
Teddy Baldassarre Excl
Zenith Oct 9, 2026

The Making of an Iconic Movement: The El Primero

We’re joined by Zenith to get the full story of how one of the world’s first automatic chronographs went from near-extinction to an enduring icon that has powered some of the most celebrated watches of all time. Straight from leading experts, we explore the 50+ year history of the El Primero, still widely used by Zenith today, to understand why it remains one of the most iconic chronograph movements of all time.More

Wren Introduces the Vessel, a New Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Anoma Oct 8, 2026

Wren Introduces the Vessel, a New Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

Wren, the microbrand founded by Wrist Enthusiast’s Craig Karger, has just unveiled the Vessel, a sharp left turn from the brand’s well received dive watches, and easily their most ambitious watch to date.  Craig has been teasing the Vessel for at least the last year, and if you’ve seen him at the Wren booth at recent Windup events and other shows, or just around NYC watch events, it’s possible you’ve seen him wearing prototypes of the Vessel or discreetly showing it off alongside his dive watches. It’s been a long road, and the lengthy run up to the release reflects the complexity of the project compared to the Diver One. I remember the first time Craig showed me a render of what would become the Vessel, it was hard for me to wrap my head around the idea that this would be the next model from his still new brand. It seemed like a watch going in a completely different direction.  The Vessel is an avant-garde integrated bracelet sports watch, built around a contemporary feeling tonneau case shape with a design by Max Resnick, who has worked with Traska, Anoma, and others. The case has an architectural look defined by sharp angles, and is crafted from 904L steel. It measures 39mm by 39mm and is 10.6mm thick. There’s a pretty dramatic taper from the widest part of the case (it’s middle section) and where the lugs meet the bracelet. While the integrated bracelet sports watch has been done to death at this point by just about any brand you can name, the Vessel ...

Introducing: Arsène Lippens Patches Up Dials With The Artigiano “Sashiko Denim” Hodinkee
Oct 8, 2026

Introducing: Arsène Lippens Patches Up Dials With The Artigiano “Sashiko Denim”

What We Know For all the conversations about what to do when a dial is damaged, possibly fit for restoration, or a watch needs some repair, I don't recall many examples of watches with dials that come pre-repaired. That's essentially what Arsène Lippens has launched: a watch inspired by the Japanese craft of Sashiko, which artfully patches and repairs textiles (largely denim) to extend their lives and turn them into something beautiful. In collaboration with Pey van der Wel, a Dutch artist who runs SASHIKODENIM, the brand's new limited edition of 10 pieces is the second in its "Threads of Time" series celebrating textile crafts. The watch is a relatively straightforward release as an entire package: a 37.5mm by 9.9mm 316L stainless steel case housing a manually wound Sellita SW210-1b movement with a 48-hour power reserve. The case is water-resistant to 50 meters, with a solid caseback and a box dome anti-reflective crystal on the front side. The thickness largely comes from the depth required for the dial, which is the star of the show. The dial is made of denim, with 12 individual hour markers hand-stitched one thread wide through the dial, with a cross-hatch at 3, 6, 9, and 12. Of course, none of these dials are the same, and you could argue that some, including the one shown here, might not be perfectly aligned to the hour marker. But so be it. The watch celebrates a centuries-old handcraft and its beautifully imperfect nature. Of course, the watch comes with a denim s...

Hands On: Wren Vessel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Oct 8, 2026

Hands On: Wren Vessel

New York-based Wren has introduced the Vessel, an integrated-bracelet sports watch with an unusually elaborate sapphire crystal. Designed by Max Resnick under founder Craig Karger’s direction, its futuristic case and crystal mark Wren’s first departure from the dive watch format and help establish a broader identity for the brand. Initial thoughts The name Wren is a portmanteau of Wrist Enthusiast, the online watch publication founded by Mr Karger. The brand’s first watch, the Diver One, was introduced in 2024, and Wren has stuck to dive watches ever since. The Vessel, however, is anything but a diver. By venturing far beyond its initial design language, Wren has carved out considerable space in which to develop its identity. In doing so, Wren has taken a page out of the Berneron playbook with a sophomore effort that is almost as different from its debut as it could be. Perhaps because the look is so different, the Vessel features an aqua blue seconds hand and winding rotor to match the dial colour of the original Diver One. The Vessel’s design was penned by British designer Max Resnick under Mr Karger’s creative direction. Originally trained in automotive design, Mr Resnick has worked with several other small brands, including Anoma and VPC. The vision called for an integrated-bracelet sports watch that avoided channelling the same handful of historical designs from the 1970s. The resulting look has more in common with Alto than Audemars Piguet. The angular desi...

Zenith Presents Its Unique Piece for the TimeForArt Auction Worn & Wound
Zenith Presents Oct 7, 2026

Zenith Presents Its Unique Piece for the TimeForArt Auction

In 2022, the inaugural TimeForArt auction took place in partnership with Phillips, marking the first and only benefit watch auction to support contemporary art and artists. In its opening year, it raised $1.2 million for the Swiss Institute’s exhibitions, public programs, education initiatives, and community engagement. Its next edition returns this December as part of The New York Watch Auction XV, now featuring a whopping 25 watch brands up from the original 17, including Zenith with a unique Defy Chronograph. For this special edition going toward a worthy cause, Zenith has once again teamed up with USM Modular Furniture. The pair first collaborated in 2025 on four ultra colorful Defy Chronograph models inspired by the timeless and playful design language of the distinctive furniture. Here, the watchmaker drew on the brand’s patented USM Haller modular system and married it with the architecture of the Defy Chronograph. For the upcoming charity auction, the duo continues to use the model as the canvas, but this time, they take a more subtle and subdued approach to the design.The foundation remains the same with the Defy Chronograph’s compact 37mm stainless-steel case, octagonal geometry, fourteen-sided bezel, and the stainless-steel “ladder” bracelet. Like we saw in the original collaboration, there are small easter eggs throughout, like the tip of the chronograph seconds hand that’s fitted with a miniature USM Haller ball joint and provides a subtle link bac...

Hands-On: Traska Chronograph Tungsten Gray Hodinkee
Ming Japanese movements Oct 5, 2026

Hands-On: Traska Chronograph Tungsten Gray

It's funny the way a brand can sneak up on you. Maybe you hear the name on a podcast, and then, a few months later, you run into the brand at a watch fair, or on a friend's wrist. Still, despite repeated encounters, it's remarkable how a brand can continue to exist entirely outside your awareness. Until it doesn't. Until you somehow find a brand, or a watch, completely inescapable, unavoidable, inevitable. 18 months ago, I'm not sure I'd ever given an independent thought to Traska; today, that couldn't be further from the truth, and the brand's Chronograph (aptly named, the Chronograph) is the perfect example of why. If you don't yet know Traska, I don't blame you. Traska is just one of many small brands that have popped up over the last decade, and they've broadly followed a familiar formula: Kickstarter launch, followed by a slowly expanding stable of somewhat conservatively designed, three-handed sports and dive watches, all powered by reliable but unassuming Japanese movements, and all drawing a heavy dose of inspiration from well-known (but far less accessible) watch brands. So, if the broad strokes are familiar, where Traska has separated itself from the pack is in the details. For one thing, unlike so many other Kickstarter brands with similar stories who have come and gone with barely a whisper, Traska has stuck around and, each year, their watches have gotten better. I finally reached my tipping point with Traska last year, when I picked up a second-hand Venturer ...

Bring a Loupe: A Lucien Piccard Telephone, A Mappin and Webb Dress Watch, An Omega Admiralty, And A Jaeger LeCoultre Master Mariner Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar Oct 2, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Lucien Piccard Telephone, A Mappin and Webb Dress Watch, An Omega Admiralty, And A Jaeger LeCoultre Master Mariner

Friday's upon us again. Happy pumpkin spice season to all who celebrate. While you're deciding whether to see Digger in the theater, planning your elaborate Halloween costume, penciling in time to watch the WNBA finals and MLB playoffs, and tracking fallout from the Man City scandal, here are a few watches to tide you over as the mercury drops. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the ZRC went for €6,000, the Omega Ranchero for €3,500, the Cartier Santos sells tomorrow, and the Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar for $14,000. Strays Here's an honest-looking early Heuer 844, which, yes, has a worn crystal and bezel, and it 'requires attention' according to the listing. That said, it's got a decent-looking Monnin case, cathedral hands (meaning Mk 1), and a movement that's common enough to be fairly easily resurrected. For those who at some point fell into the Omega Symbol watch rabbit hole, here's a pair of excellent men's versions—this one and that one—and an accompanying pair of women's versions (this and that), and if all of that is gobbledygook to you, count yourself lucky and move along. If you've been hankering for a great-looking 1979 Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019, your time has come. Photo courtesy of The Saleroom. This is in the running as the prettiest school pocket watch I've seen in a long time, and a good argument for why people should continue investing more time, energy, and money into pocket watches. Bonhams' upcoming New York auction on the 8th has plenty of wo...

First Look - The New Steel Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE Black Monochrome
Oct 2, 2026

First Look - The New Steel Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE Black

Independent and deliberately small-scale, Brellum is known (and respected) for following a straightforward formula: strict quality controls, every movement is COSC-certified, and annual watch production is capped at 299 pieces. The brand’s Pandial chronograph series features a tachymeter bezel and telemeter scale, date indication and might be considered the brand’s sportier line. After the 2025 […]

Introducing - Lorige BL-Evolution “Competition”, Built from Le Mans Victory Monochrome
Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - Lorige BL-Evolution “Competition”, Built from Le Mans Victory

There is a particular appeal in owning a physical fragment of something meaningful, be it from popular culture, a piece of the Jacaranda stage where The Beatles first performed, or, in Lorige’s case, motorsport: the brake material used by a winning endurance-racing car, which was later turned into material for its BL-Endurance collection. Following the recent […]

Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Editions With Two New References In Milan Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Editions With Two New References In Milan

When it comes to collecting vintage watches, all roads lead back to Rome. Literally. Well, Rome’s home country, at least, where the passion for horology (and vintage Patek Philippe) permeates the culture, and has done so for decades, in a way that you really can’t find anywhere else. Add to that Milan’s status as fashion capital of the world, and it makes sense that Patek Philippe would host the seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. The free exhibition (with reserved tickets) is meant to celebrate the art of watchmaking viewed through the lens of the craftsmanship (both technically and artistically) of Patek past and future. It opens tomorrow, October 2, and runs until October 18. As is tradition, the brand has launched new watches to celebrate the moment—7 new limited editions and 25 Rare Handcrafts models using various métiers d’art.  Ben wrote about the big news of a new manual-wind perpetual calendar chronograph (limited to 120 pieces) here. We'll also be sharing all the Rare Handcrafts pieces soon in a Photo Report from Milan. But while they're not all new references, the new treatments of a few pretty outstanding watches deserve their own story. First things first, all of these watches are ostensibly for the Italian market. But hey, better to have loved and lost (...out on a chance to buy them) than to never know they existed. As of launch, Patek has not released pricing for this model. We will update the article when more information becomes avail...

Australian Surfer Finds Rolex Submariner In The Pacific Ocean (From The Archives) Fratello
Rolex Submariner Sep 29, 2026

Australian Surfer Finds Rolex Submariner In The Pacific Ocean (From The Archives)

We’ve been going through some of the best Fratello stories recently, and this one by Henry on a surfer finding a Rolex Submariner in the ocean was one of our best-read articles. Just in case you might have missed it, we’re republishing it today. And make sure to read the follow-up story as well (you […] Visit Australian Surfer Finds Rolex Submariner In The Pacific Ocean (From The Archives) to read the full article.

Introducing: Ianos Amfivios (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Sep 28, 2026

Introducing: Ianos Amfivios (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Ianos, the Greek microbrand best known for its Greek history and culture-inspired dive watches like the Avyssos and the Dytis, is back with a new dive watch that was never meant to be. When Ianos introduced the Dytis last year, it was noted as the last in a trilogy of dive watches from Ianos, after which they would move on to the next thing. Well, Ianos is still mostly sticking to that story, but in the meantime, we have the Ianos Amfivios, a civilian edition of a special-edition watch Ianos produced last summer for Greece's Underwater Demolition Command. The new watch, built on the same dive-watch platform as last summer's Dytis (which TanTan went hands-on with here), is a solid next step for a brand that has iterated gently, even as it's taken big aesthetic swings in developing its collection. And truly, few, if any, other watches on the market scratch the same itch as Ianos's watches do. That said, the Amfivios is about as mass-appeal a watch as Ianos has produced, thanks to the military-demanded touches that set it apart from the Dytis. The Amfivios is, for example, the first dive watch since the original Avyssos to include any kind of scale on the rotating bezel. And where previous Ianos watches have used the small seconds subdial as a visual gag, here it is a functional subdial, with hands, markers, and everything. That's not to say Ianos has purged all that makes these watches, frankly, a little funky, though. The unique date at 12 remains, with ...

Hands-On With The New Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37mm Collection WatchAdvice
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37mm Collection Sep 27, 2026

Hands-On With The New Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37mm Collection

Bvlgari shrunk the Octo Finissimo down, and let’s just say it ticks a lot of boxes! And to see how many, we’ve gone hands-on with both the Titanium and the 18k Gold models. What We Love The 37mm case wears closer to a 40mm while being more comfortable on the wrist. The titanium model is exceptionally light and easy to wear all day The Octo Finissimo still stands out from the usual integrated-bracelet sports watches What We Don’t The titanium takes some getting used to The Octo Finissimo is a unique design that will not appeal to all people The full 18k yellow-gold construction makes it far less discreet, which may not be for everyone Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When Bvlgari first announced it was getting a 37mm Octo Finissimo, I feel there was a lot of the watch community that was quietly optimistic about what this would mean for the Octo Finissimo collection. I first heard about these back at LVMH Watch Week at the start of the year, where we were given a bit of a teaser on the new collection. And having reviewed the larger 40mm model last year, I was one of those who were quietly anticipating what the new Octo Finissimo 37mm range could mean for the brand. Then, back in April, walking into the Bvlgari booth at Watches and Wonders and being able to slip these on my wrists for the first time, it wasn’t long before I was sold that this new size was a perfect sweet spot for the Roman brand...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New Chuck Klosterman Book, A Gorilla-Shaped Pencil Sharpener, and the Dumb Phone Argument Continues Worn & Wound
Sep 26, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New Chuck Klosterman Book, A Gorilla-Shaped Pencil Sharpener, and the Dumb Phone Argument Continues

Rock* by Chuck Klosterman I was first acquainted with Klosterman’s work when I was in high school, doing absolutely everything I could to seem cooler than everyone around me. I figured a book called Sex, Drugs, and Cocoa Puffs: A Low Culture Manifesto gave me the street cred I was looking for among my Pitchfork-reading, Urban Outfitters-wearing peers. And you know what, dear Reader? It absolutely did. I haven’t thought much about Klosterman since around 2009, but his new book, Rock*: A Mainstream Alternative History of Alternative Mainstream Music, sounds intriguing. The premise begins in 1967, imagining a world where The Velvet Underground & Nico becomes a massive hit and the Velvet Underground supplants the Beatles as the defining band of the era. The book runs roughly from 1967 through 2002 and is narrated by a fictional version of Lester Bangs who survives into the 21st century and becomes a successful older rock editor. Klosterman tells GQ writing it required him to first work out a conventional history of rock over that period and then “reverse engineer” it around the Velvet Underground’s altered success, accounting for how one change would affect everything that followed. Though I do have a mental allergy to most modern books (this is another pretension of mine, of course), I have to admit the premise is pretty intriguing. And anywhere that Nico is preferred over Yoko is a universe I want to live in. GorillaSharpener I have to be honest with you, I have mi...

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6105G (Plus Technical In-Depth) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Celestial Ref 6105G Plus Sep 25, 2026

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6105G (Plus Technical In-Depth)

We're on the eve of one of Patek Philippe's biggest events every few years: the October 2nd to the 18th presentation of the brand's Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. On Monday, I'll be flying there for a preview of the exhibition, so stay tuned for stories from that trip coming in the near future. Another story, which has been waiting in the wings and in progress for some time now, was a hands-on look at two of the most surprising (and potentially divisive) releases from Patek this year: the Cubitus perpetual calendar and the Celestial ref. 6105G. While all eyes were on the Nautilus's 50th anniversary, I thought Patek Philippe had a very interesting Watches & Wonders, at least from the perspective of bold releases and brand strategy. Truthfully, they could have done just about anything with the Nautilus, and those lucky enough to get a watch would have been happy. The Celestial alone was a wristwatch with a complication only four other brands have created. But just take a look at the two watches above and the two below. While I didn't get to see the ref. 7047G in person, it raised eyebrows for the very unusual blue tire tread-style dial (à la ref. 6007G) and remarkably strong orange accents and luminous hands and dial placed on a minute repeater that retails north of $570,000. It was perhaps so aesthetically surprising that it distracted people from the fact that Patek was honoring its past with a Calatrava-cased minute repeater reminiscent of the unique ref. 3652 and ...

First Look - The Olive Green Minerva Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition 18 Brings Back The Suspended Regulator Monochrome
Montblanc Sep 25, 2026

First Look - The Olive Green Minerva Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition 18 Brings Back The Suspended Regulator

Minerva, founded in 1858, has entered a new phase in 2026, stepping out from its long-standing double branding with Montblanc to operate as a stand-alone name. The transition has already brought several new creations, including the Unveiled Crownless and new executions of the Unveiled Secret and Unveiled Chronograph, putting Minerva’s distinctive movement designs and traditional […]