Deployant
Review: new Depancel Legend 60s Chronograph
We review the new Depancel Legend 60s Chronograph, a 1960s inspired timepiece that is produced by a microbrand based in France.
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Deployant
We review the new Depancel Legend 60s Chronograph, a 1960s inspired timepiece that is produced by a microbrand based in France.
Time+Tide
Well, it is fair to say that TAG Heuer made the biggest waves this week – opening their new 5th Ave Flagship Boutique and launching a new and long awaited watch in the same day. Located at 645 5th Avenue in New York City, TAG Heuer invited press, friends of the brand, and TAG Heuer … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Skippers and stars celebrate opening of new TAG Heuer 5th Ave Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Oh the fear of missing out (or FOMO as the kids say) is real. As I scroll through Instagram stalking the GS9 Club events around the world, I can’t help but ask why? Why am I not there sipping on sake, fondling Grand Seiko after Grand Seiko? When is Australia launching our very own GS9 … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko GS9 Club for Australia and New Zealand is finally here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Two additions to the Lange collections - a new Lange 1 Time Zone platinum, & a new 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar in a white gold case/pink gold dial.
Worn & Wound
These are the kinds of midweek surprises I can get on board with. TAG Heuer has revealed a new Carrera Skipper chronograph in the 39mm chassis we saw (and loved) earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. This is a regular production variant of the Carrera that makes excellent use of the sublime Skipper colorway we first saw in the late ‘60s, and most recently in the 2017 limited edition Carrera Skipper for Hodinkee. The color scheme feels right at home in the modern Carrera shoes, with plenty of small details to discover along the way. Best of all, it doesn’t feel like a vintage recreation, it feels purely modern through and through, taking full advantage of the new ‘glassbox’ design of the Carrera. The latest Carrera sports a range of blue, green, and orange hues in a reflection of the original colorway which made the watch so distinctive. The base dial is a deep blue with contrasting seafoam hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and multicolor minute totalizer at 3 o’clock, which splits the counter into 5 minute segments to more accurately find your position going into the start of a yacht race. The final five minutes, as well as the timing seconds hand, are rendered in orange, denoting their importance to the operation. There is a running seconds hand within a third, almost hidden sub dial appearing at 6 o’clock, which isn’t framed and thus is the same color as the base of the dial. Only the indexes and the hand itself give its position away. The unique new ‘gl...
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Time+Tide
Once enough collectors discover a vintage reference, prices can really drive up as their collectability rises. Due to the age of a watch, and how perspective has shifted on how to appropriately maintain or service a watch, the available number of collector-grade condition watches can be rare. One such coveted, historic, and rare watch is … ContinuedThe post The new TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges the coveted reference with new Glassbox format appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Interesting new addition to the MB&F; LMX family with a collaboration with Laurent Picciotto of Chronopassion, to celebrate a great friendship.
WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil recently released their new limited edition Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph, and as the official launch partner, we’ve had the pleasure of testing it out over the past couple of weeks. Here’s the results… What We Love Vintage StylingThe multi-faceted dialFlyback functionality What We Don’t Stiff strap and clasp designNo date windowOverhanging lug design Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8/10 Initial Thoughts Sitting in a café in Sydney a few weeks ago, my colleague and I laid eyes on the the Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph for the first time. We knew they were releasing a new pilots watch to add to the Freelancer Chronograph line, and having only seen the press pics, in person it looked the goods, especially the dial. Playing around with it for a little while, it seemed solid and well done, and being a limited edition of just 400, with a price point of AUD $6,995 for a good-looking flyback chronograph that was well built, seemed fair to us based on the competition and price points out there now. And if you missed our article on the release of this watch, before you dive into this review, check out all the details with more live pics here. The Design The design of the new Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph is quite multifaceted, to say the least. Raymond Weil has used different design cues and inspiration to craft the watch to look and feel vintage, but it is anything but. The...
Worn & Wound
The latest in the ever expanding lineup of the Bell & Ross BR 05 collection, their popular integrated bracelet sports watch, is a new chronograph reference featuring the colors of the Alpine F1 team, a Bell & Ross partner since 2016, when the team operated under the Renault banner. This is a follow up to a trio of 2021 releases marking the inaugural year of Alpine’s involvement on the F1 circuit, a set of chronographs that still make a lot of sense given the motorsport connection. The new watch builds on the aesthetic established by those that have come before it, combining the distinctive Alpine colorway with an integrated bracelet platform that has proven to be surprisingly durable and adaptable since it was launched in 2020. The phrase that comes up over and over again in Bell & Ross marketing materials for the BR 05 is “sport chic,” and we have to admit, it fits the bill. These are not pure sports or tool watches in the sense that we’ve always understood them. They’re made, primarily, to look nice. They have well executed integrated bracelets, eye-catching finishing with dramatic transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and an overall slender appearance. That’s the “chic.” The “sport” comes in the form of the watch’s specs, which put it on equal footing with its more tool watch focused companions in the Bell & Ross collection. The case and bracelet are made from stainless steel, water resistance is rated to 100 meters with a screw down c...
Worn & Wound
Whether it’s New Yorkers migrating to the Hamptons or their Milanese counterparts holidaying during Ferragosto, it is a universal truth that Summer is the best time to escape the city. Swiss brand Maurice Lacroix’s most recent collection highlights the urban mad dash to vacation with their AIKON Automatic Limited Summer Edition series. The AIKON, first released in 2016, has long taken design inspiration from urban living, but the latest release has softened the steely nature of this watch for something more playful, delicate, and a bit more relaxed. The Summer Edition features a total of six options coming in three sizes: 35mm, 39mm, and 42 mm. Each option celebrates the warmer weather with tonal accents that are reminiscent of sand, sun, and the sea. The most diminutive option, the 35mm comes in two colorways: Ballerina Pink or Tanager Turquoise, giving wearers a desaturated take on classic baby blue and rosy pink, perfect for a feminine touch to one’s wrist. These smallest references include diamond hour markers, setting them apart from the 39mm and 42mm models, which use batons exclusively. The 39mm gets into more unisex territory with its larger size but in many ways remains similar to the 35mm model. The largest option, coming in at 42mm, is available in either Tanager Turquoise or a vibrant alternative, Orange Soda. The addition of the Orange Soda option doesn’t just inject a bit of flavor into the pale options of Turquoise and Ballerina Pink, but also hits...
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Time+Tide
Some microbrands just get it. Their designs are elegant, their execution flawless, their carefully chosen components top-notch, and their customer experience first-rate. But for every Baltic, Brew, or Boldr, there are scads of ill-conceived releases that, for one reason or another, can cause my eye to twitch uncontrollably. A handset that’s all wrong. An off-putting … ContinuedThe post Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Wei & Eleonor speak with Jean Arnault, Director of Watches at Louis Vuitton, to discuss the newly released Louis Vuitton Tambour. Redesigned as a lugless, bezel-less, integrated bracelet sports chic watch, the new Louis Vuitton Tambour is the most fiercely original offer in this hotly contested category, and speaks to the design intelligence of its […]
Deployant
Bell & Ross continues their partnership with F1 team Alpine by incorporating the F1 colour scheme into the new BR 05 Chrono A523.
Worn & Wound
The industrial designs of ochs und junior watches have an immense impact allowed by their near brutalistic design codes, but the sheer simplicity of their approach to complications is what really draws us in. Their perpetual calendar being the penultimate example, requiring just 9 new components within the movement to operate. Ochs und junior are bringing this level of thinking to their line collection, which we’ve covered since its inception, with the introduction of a new moonphase capable of remaining accurate for 3,478.27 years before being off by a single day. In true ochs und junior fashion, they’ve accomplished this with the addition of just 5 additional parts to the ETA 2824-2 movement. The new line watch is called the moon phase / selene, and it brings the moon to the dial in a unique manner, as you may have guessed when it comes to ochs und junior. There is a large moon phase aperture cut through through the bottom portion of the dial, with a monochromatic representation of the moon at opposing ends of a rotating disc. Dots underneath the dial represent each day, and each phase that the moon passes through. The remainder of the dial is rendered almost entirely in ochs blue, creating a rather serene experience of the romantic complication, save for the silver hour markers at each even hour. The total aesthetic here is classic ochs und junior, with minimal representation of the core components, and an untouched, raw experience of the materials at use. The two...
Time+Tide
To most people an entry-level watch would be something like a Casio, Seiko, or maybe a Hamilton if you want to go Swiss. However, Louis Vuitton have made a significant declaration that they’re not interested in catering to ‘most people’. Although the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has included some true technical marvels, the air of … ContinuedThe post Jean Arnault tells the story of the new Louis Vuitton Tambour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A review of the Circula ProTrail “Old Radium” Limited Edition. A refined take on what collectors call a "field watch."
Deployant
Yema extends their Urban Traveller collection with three new references priced below the launch edition called The Wristmaster which has been sold out.
Time+Tide
While the field of watch enthusiasts, collectors, and buyers is rapidly growing, the number of watchmakers is unfortunately not. Most young children continue to aspire to be astronauts, Navy Seals, athletes, or Tik Tok influencers. It would be a very surprising moment for a parent to hear their child say: One day, I want to … ContinuedThe post The Horological Society of New York unveils six lots for their 2023 charity auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been playing around with the new Tissot Sideral collection, and at first I wasn’t sure of what to make of them. But after trying them on and wearing them, I now get it! What We Love Bright colours really popSuper comfortable to wearTotally unique look What We Don’t Strap fastening systemBezel action is roughNot an everyday watch or for everyone Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 7.5/10 Initial Thoughts When I first saw the press release on the Tissot Sideral collection (Which we covered here), I wasn’t sure what to make of them. A colourful re-invention of a sports watch from 1971 with a regatta timer – would it work? The short answer is yes, it does! A fun and playful watch, these are not to be taken seriously. Whilst the original was a serious watch 50 yeas ago, the 2023 Sideral takes that seriousness and flips it on its head. The new Tissot Sideral collection – colourful and playful! At $1,550 AUD, these are not overly expensive pieces in comparison to the larger world of luxury watches where many pieces are now into the $10,000+ range. And I’ll go out on a limb here and say these are not entry level either, despite their price. Why? Because they’re not an everyday wearing watch, they are designed to have fun with, and in my opinion, this is a watch that even seasoned collectors can add to their collection for that reason. After having all three models for a couple...
Deployant
Continuing our Deployant Reacts series, today we take a look at and react to the GQ UK's list of best new watches in 2023. On to the Sunday Roast!
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Time+Tide
The ‘60s were an important era for Seiko, as it saw the introduction of both the Grand Seiko and King Seiko lines. Originally launched to promote healthy inter-company competition with Grand Seiko, the King Seiko name made its debut in 1961, and in 1965, the iconic KSK model was released. The luxe-leaning Grand Seiko of … ContinuedThe post The slender new King Seiko collection channels the retro elegance of the 1965 original appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
ArtyA extends their AquaSaphir collection of sapphire watches with four new references in a new cyan colour-way. Available in a gradient dial or meteorite.
Worn & Wound
In a surprise move this week Tudor has revealed a pair of new FXD watches in honor of their partnership with the two time America’s Cup winning Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. To date, we’ve made due with the single FXD reference which was released in late 2020, and it’s a platform we’ve been thoroughly impressed with for reasons you can read about in our in-depth review right here. Today, the FXD gets a pair of stablemates in the form of the Pelagos FXD and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition”, which introduce a new material to the mix, along with, for the first time ever for the collection, complications. The Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition FXD watches continue to make use of the defining feature eluded to in the FXD name, which is a fixed lug bar design, meaning passthrough straps only. Tudor have made a new hook and loop, or “self-gripping fastening system”-equipped Julien Faure strap in blue and red for these new references in a nod to the red accents found in the racing team’s colors. Along the same lines, the bezel of each of these FXD watches has been rendered in matte black. The time-only reference is of course familiar, sharing the same dimensions as the original FXD with a trim 42mm case that wears quite flat. The black bezel is a handsome addition to the matte blue dial, which gains red accents in the seconds hand, as well as the Pelagos label at the bottom of the dial, similar to what we see in the Pelagos 39. This watch uses ...
Deployant
Whoa! Omega does a big time 75th Anniversary celebration of their iconic Seamaster collection with 11 new watches in Summer Blue.
Worn & Wound
The Seamaster turns 75 this year, and if you thought Omega was going to let the anniversary pass without a major celebratory release, well, needless to say you’d be sorely mistaken. Today, the brand unveiled an 11 watch collection, covering the expanse of the Seamaster range to pay tribute to all aspects of what many would argue is a brand within a brand. More than anything, the new suite of Seamasters is a reminder of the diversity of watches made with the “Seamaster” name on the dial. Even more than the Speedmaster, the Seamaster collection represents the core of what Omega is as a brand today, a fully integrated manufacture that makes tech forward, accessible, heirloom quality watches for every possible scenario. Omega has developed a remarkably coherent conceit behind this release, which they are subtitling “Precision at Every Level,” a reference to the brand’s high spec METAS certified movements and the range of depths Seamaster watches are certified to. The idea here is that Omega is using a shade of “Summer Blue” on each dial, but in lighter or darker gradients depending on the depth rating of the watch. The Aqua Terra, rated to 150 meters, has a dial that appears light blue with a subtle gradient effect, but once you get down to the depths of the Ploprof and Ultra Deep, the dials get darker with a more pronounced gradient. The blue used here is distinct from other shades of blue used throughout the Omega catalog, so these watches should be immedia...
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