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Introducing: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Certified Chronometer Fratello
Feb 19, 2025

Introducing: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Certified Chronometer

Since 2019, BA111OD has offered edgy, affordable Swiss timepieces. The brand from Neuchatel offers a tourbillon, manufacture complications, and several avant-garde mechanical watches. The models even have chapter names, and today’s piece, the Chapter 7, is the first to receive a chronometer certification. With rising prices from many traditional “high street” brands, smaller independent watch […] Visit Introducing: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Certified Chronometer to read the full article.

Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne Fratello
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Feb 19, 2025

Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne

If you like the odd thematic special edition, Hublot is the brand to follow. Today, we get an interesting new watch from the Nyon-based outfit. This is the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne. You quite literally get a piece of Lucerne if you purchase this watch, so if the Swiss city carries meaning to […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne to read the full article.

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces a New Tonda PF in Platinum Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces Feb 18, 2025

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces a New Tonda PF in Platinum

Among higher end Swiss watch brands, few have experienced a greater turnaround, at least on the surface, over the past several years than Parmigiani Fleurier. Parmigiani has always been a brand that knowledgable collectors and enthusiasts have praised and found a great deal of value in, but the brand itself didn’t always seem healthy. Before Guido Terreni took over in 2021, it would have been quite common to find heavily discounted Parmigianis on the gray market – a common symptom of overproducing too many references and not being able to find your core customer. Under Terreni, the brand’s output has been streamlined and everything just seems more thought through. And while I don’t have insight into sales statistics, you certainly don’t see the brand’s current catalog selling for closeout prices on the discount sites, a sign that they’ve got production under control, at the very least.  One of the brand’s biggest gambits has been the exploring the integrated bracelet sports watch market with the Tonda PF collection. Launched at a time when every luxury brand was throwing their hat in the ring in this particular category, Parmigiani has sought to differentiate itself from competitors in the luxury integrated bracelet sports watch world by leaning into the luxury angle, and perhaps a little away from the sport. Inspired by a “sartorial approach” to watch design, the Tonda PF is all about feel, texture, and proportions in a manner similar to a bespoke sui...

Industry News – Morgan Stanley’s Top 50 Watch Brands for 2024, Rolex Still by far the Leader, Overall Market Suffered Monochrome
Rolex Still Feb 17, 2025

Industry News – Morgan Stanley’s Top 50 Watch Brands for 2024, Rolex Still by far the Leader, Overall Market Suffered

Like every year and for now eight consecutive times, Swiss watch industry consultancy firm LuxeConsult and financial institution Morgan Stanley have worked together to bring their annual report of the Swiss watch industry, and the estimated revenues of the top 50 brands. While the 2023 report showed records for the market, it also indicated the […]

Bell & Ross Takes On the Cosmos with the BR-03 Astro SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Takes Feb 17, 2025

Bell & Ross Takes On the Cosmos with the BR-03 Astro

Bell & Ross, the Franco-Swiss watchmaker celebrated for its aviation instrument-inspired timepieces, ventures into the celestial realm with the BR-03 Astro. This striking new model, limited to 999 pieces, takes inspiration from the larger theme of space exploration, capturing the  Earth, Moon, and Mars within its avant-garde dial. Despite the seemingly cosmic display, the dial only indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds in a conventional manner, keeping the watch affordable. By merging sharp execution with a cosmic narrative, Bell & Ross introduces an imaginative take on its mostly functional “tool” watches. Initial thoughts  At the core of the BR-03 Astro sits a unique, if simplistic, reinterpretation of a “planetary” movement. Over the celestial aventurine glass base, a tiny Mars indicates the hours, a realistic-looking Moon indicates the minutes, and a satellite marks the passing seconds. All these indicators revolve around a large Earth that rests immobile at the centre of the dial.  What is basically a three-hand watch becomes a rather immersive reinterpretation of the universe. While the motion of the planets is not accurate, the interplay of these well-reproduced celestial bodies has an undeniable appeal to it. The BR-03 Astro is not an astronomical complication nor an accurate cosmos model but manages to appeal through its playful take on the space theme, while staying in the same price range as the more conventional BR-03 models. This is an interesti...

Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Feb 13, 2025

Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

There’s no sports watch that I have a stronger connection to than the Zenith Defy. I’ve long told anyone who would listen that the Defy is, bar none, my favorite sports watch collection. From its inception, the Defy has been a watch associated with pushing both design and watchmaking boundaries, through the use of uncommon materials, avant-garde designs, and over-the-top specs. For whatever sports watch from a major Swiss brand you can name, I could probably think of a Defy that matches it in terms of what it can do, and eclipses it in terms of the always hard to quantify cool factor. Yes, of course this is subjective. But, I mean, is it really?  Now that we’ve established that I love the Defy potentially all out of proportion, we can consider the latest entry in the growing collection, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. This is a combination of words that were always meant to meet in the form of a Defy – the writing has been on the wall since the intro of the first Defy Skyline, or least since the introduction of the Skyline Chronograph. One of the nice things about the Defy, as a collection, is that it truly offers a different flavor of the core watch for every taste, with dials that are skeletonized, or not, cases that are made from steel, or ceramic, and now chronographs offering some of those same decision points.  My feelings on the Defy Skyline collection oscillate quite a bit. Whenever I put one on, I can’t help but compare it in my mind to the Defy...

Frederique Constant Refines the Worldtimer Manufacture SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Refines Feb 13, 2025

Frederique Constant Refines the Worldtimer Manufacture

Known for its value-oriented timepieces, Frederique Constant partnered Swiss crowdfunding specialist Watch Angels to reimagine the Worldtimer Manufacture. Now in a 40 mm format with a cleaner aesthetic, the limited-edition of 718 pieces will only be available for purchase through Watch Angels’ online shop via a pre-order. Initial thoughts Frederique Constant has some interesting and accessible models, ranging from perpetual calendars to tourbillons and even a flexural pivot monolithic oscillator. The Geneva-based brand is mostly a player in the under-CHF5,000 segment, with a focus on in-house engineering. This latest iteration of the Worldtimer Manufacture is a good example of Frederique Constant’s approach to blending appealing designs with in-house mechanics, while keeping the price accessible. This new release builds on the successful Classic Worldtimer Manufacture collection, but with a streamlined design and reduced case size. It looks like Watch Angels took the lead with the design, opting for a clean layout, strong blue hues and sharp case lines. In contrast to the original that has a fussy design with a world map dial, the new version is functional but still elegantly detailed. The reduced case size, cleaner dial, and sharp finishing make this a compelling worldtime complication timepiece. Furthermore, the limited edition costs virtually the same as the regular production model, making this collaboration very appealing. More broadly, the partnership between Fr...

Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches Fratello
Alpina Watches Alpina has been Feb 4, 2025

Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches

Alpina has been on a roll lately. The Swiss watchmaker has been busy updating its collection with some great new models. While most of you will probably know the brand’s sports pieces, we have also seen some great watches inspired by its past, which goes back more than a century. Indeed, Alpina is a brand […] Visit Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches to read the full article.

Introducing – The Champagne-Toned Shellman x Raymond Weil Millesime Centre Seconds Monochrome
Raymond Weil Jan 31, 2025

Introducing – The Champagne-Toned Shellman x Raymond Weil Millesime Centre Seconds

Shellman is a renowned watch retailer in Tokyo, represented by independent brands and a curated selection of vintage watches. Over the years, Shellman has commissioned limited editions from refined Swiss brands like Habring and Andersen Genève. The latest collaboration is with Raymond Weil, and the watch selected by Shellman is the Millesime Centre Seconds, the […]

Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Green Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Green It’s Jan 30, 2025

Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Green

It’s been a little over a year and a half since Nivada Grenchen introduced the Antarctic Diver to us in May 2023. Since then, the Swiss brand has released many timepieces, including chronographs and watches with integrated bracelets. This, however, is the first time that a new model has been added to the Antarctic Diver […] Visit Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Green to read the full article.

Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Jan 27, 2025

Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon

Hermès is a brand with a distinctive, often whimsical, visual identity that translates well across products, even on its most complicated watches like the Arceau Duc Attelé, which combines a triple-axis central tourbillon (containing a high-frequency escapement) with a minute repeater featuring novel “tuning fork” gongs. Large, thick, and very complex, the Duc Attelé still manages to capture the elegant aesthetic of the brand, even in subtle details of the H1926 movement, like horse-shaped hammers for the repeater. Customised for Hermès, the calibre has an intricate, dense construction but is recognisable as being produced by a specialist. Initial thoughts The Duc Attelé demonstrates the strength of the Hermès house style. On the front, it looks elegant despite the size, while the movement feels appropriate even though it is third party. The watch does sit big on the wrist, though the titanium version is a little lighter in weight and visually smaller due to its dark colours. But the Arceau case has tiny lugs, so it doesn’t feel clunky. And although the case is almost 20 mm high, a good part of that is due to the highly domed crystal that accommodates the tourbillon’s height. All of the design elements, however, give it an elegant feel. These include the Breguet numerals on the domed chapter ring and the “Lift” motif tourbillon cage modelled on the elevator in the brand’s flagship store in Paris. But more than anything else, this is a watch characterise...

Oris Celebrates a Big Anniversary, and Closes a Chapter, with the Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition Worn & Wound
Tudor money Jan 16, 2025

Oris Celebrates a Big Anniversary, and Closes a Chapter, with the Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition

This week, at their annual press event in Vail, CO, Oris unveiled the latest edition of the Divers Sixty-Five, the Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition. While some have met the news of yet another trip to the Divers Sixty Five well with some confusion or bemusement considering the big launch of its natural successor, the Divers Date, last year, the writing was on the wall that this was coming. I mean, it’s right there in the name of the watch, and the arithmetic is easy. Nobody misses a chance to celebrate an anniversary in this industry, and the Divers Sixty-Five is more than worthy of the treatment.  Before we get into the specifics of the new model, which we’re told is the true swan song for the Divers Sixty-Five, I think it’s worth stepping back and looking at the origins of the Sixty-Five and what makes it a genuinely important watch in the realm of enthusiast focused divers. While the original Divers Sixty-Five did indeed debut 60 years ago, the modern revival version has had a much more widespread impact. Oris brought the Sixty-Five back about ten years ago in a watch climate that was really beginning to see vintage inspired watches, particularly midcentury sports watches and divers, gain traction. The timing was perfect, and for new enthusiasts entering the hobby in those heady days, the Divers Sixty-Five was an easy recommendation on forums (remember those?) if a new collector wasn’t quite ready to spend Tudor money. The Sixty-Five not only offered ...

Peter Speake is Back with PS Horology and the New Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son Worn & Wound
Jan 15, 2025

Peter Speake is Back with PS Horology and the New Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son

Last week, Peter Speake returned to the independent watchmaking scene when he unveiled the first pieces from his new brand, PS Horology. Peter is something of a legendary figure in the indie watchmaking world. He is the co-founder of Speake-Marin, which launched in 2002 after Peter spent a period of time working as a watchmaker for Renaud & Papi in Le Locle, Switzerland. Speake-Marin is perhaps best known for the Piccadilly case design, named for the London district where Peter spent the early part of his career restoring vintage watches. The Piccadilly case, I’ve always felt, is something of an acquired taste. I’ve come to really love it, and see it as a symbol of an earlier era of independent watchmaking when these artisanal, handcrafted watches made in very small batches were not at the front of anyone’s mind. Times, of course, have changed for the better, and indies are currently having the quite the moment, but it’s worth remembering that a line can be drawn from any of the buzzy new indie watchmakers to surface in the last few years all the way back to Peter and his early 2000s contemporaries. To put it plainly, it’s great that he’s back.  Peter founded PS Horology back in 2022 and has been working on the first collection ever since. The Tsuba watches seen here are expected to be the first of several projects for PS Horology in 2025. While it might not look like it on an initial glance, there’s actually connective tissue between the Piccadilly cases of...

The Start Of A New Tennis Season Reveals Rolex’s Firm Grip On The Sport Fratello
Rolex s Firm Grip Jan 12, 2025

The Start Of A New Tennis Season Reveals Rolex’s Firm Grip On The Sport

In 2023, right after Wimbledon, I wrote an article questioning whether there was life for Rolex in tennis after Roger Federer left the sport as an active player. During that year’s Wimbledon, the Swiss maestro received a unique welcome from the English audience. It showed people’s respect and gratitude for Federer as a tennis player […] Visit The Start Of A New Tennis Season Reveals Rolex’s Firm Grip On The Sport to read the full article.

Introducing – Seagull Presents a $3,500 Split-Second Chronograph, Arguably the Most Accessible Rattrapante on the Market Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe Finding Jan 8, 2025

Introducing – Seagull Presents a $3,500 Split-Second Chronograph, Arguably the Most Accessible Rattrapante on the Market

When you think of split-second or rattrapante chronographs, you immediately picture high-end watches from Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe. Finding an accessible rattrapante chronograph, at least new on the market, is not an easy task, especially if you consider Swiss or European watch manufacturers. But something from the other side of the world is about […]

Remembering John Weiss Through his Watches Worn & Wound
Jan 1, 2025

Remembering John Weiss Through his Watches

Early in the morning on May 9th, 2024, my dad, John Starr Weiss, passed away at the age of 77. He was a very kind, creative, and crafty person who always had some outlet for his imagination. From wild psychedelic drawings to photography to inventing toys (he briefly co-owned a toy brand, Weiss Twice), making leather bracelets, custom phone holsters, and modifying his clothes and hats with contrasting buttons or zipper pulls. In his later years, he carved strange sculptures and figurines out of wood, part of a ritual that went with smoking his pipe. He shared this passion with me, and I thank him for my creative abilities. Growing up, we weren’t into sports, religion, or the great outdoors, save for a light hike on a walking trail at places like Mohonk Mountain House, scouring outcroppings of slate for fossils. Instead, we bonded over art and objects. We would walk around talking about cars on the street, going into stores ranging from sporting goods shops like Paragon- looking at the gear, boots, and knives- to comic book stores (Forbidden Planet was the favorite), as well as antique and craft shops where my Dad would spend an inordinate amount poring over every detail. He was a collector by nature, perhaps to a fault, so he would easily get lost in minutiae. While going through his things, we discovered his collections went beyond what we knew. They included items of pure nostalgia, like dated corks from New Year’s Eve decades ago, sandals he made in college, slides o...

Haim Jumps into the Stone Dial Trend with a Striking New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Dec 26, 2024

Haim Jumps into the Stone Dial Trend with a Striking New Limited Edition

I had the opportunity to meet Zakir Miah, the founder of Chicago-based Haim Watch Co., at a timepiece-related event in Canada this past September. Before that, I had only admired his watches online, and I was especially drawn to the L2 Chronograph, which features a pink gold dial with blued hands and numerals. Zakir was gracious and patient enough to walk me through his entire lineup despite the line of people waiting to chat with him. It took nearly all my willpower to walk away without purchasing one. One of their most popular collections is the Legacy Automatic, a custom-built timepiece designed to order. This model marks several milestones for the brand, including its first custom-designed HWC-1 automatic movement based on ETA architecture assembled in the United States. Each watch is crafted specifically for the buyer. The Legacy Automatic has a hand-finished titanium TA2 (commercially pure grade 2) case with a coin-edge bezel and exhibition case back. Today, Haim is launching a new limited edition Legacy to celebrate their second collaboration with WatchesArabized x OPTO WATCH CO. This edition, named the Arabized (Al-Nimer), which translates to “The Tiger,” will feature a dial made of Tiger’s Eye stone. Tiger’s Eye is a chatoyant gemstone, typically classified as a metamorphic rock, recognized for its golden to red-brown color and silky luster. As part of the quartz group, its distinctive appearance is created through the intergrowth of quartz crystals and al...

Best of 2024: Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Independent Watchmaking

Independent watchmaking continued its hot streak in 2024, with interest and demand for this niche segment holding up better amidst an industry-wide slowdown. But surprisingly – or unsurprisingly depending on how you look at it – there were relatively few outstanding new creations from the indies. A handful, however, did stand out. We look at the team’s highlights of the year, which range from Konstantin Chaykin’s thinnest-watch-ever to the debut by Swiss-based Japanese watchmaker Takahiro Aigaki. Aigaki Direct-Impulse Tourbillon – Brandon Moore I still remember the moment I stumbled across Takahiko Aigaki’s Instagram profile earlier this year, because the close-up image of the tourbillon cage made me do a double take. Sure, it was well finished, but in 2024 good finishing no longer provides the competitive advantage it once did; the top end of the market is just too competitive. No, what struck me was the unusual double direct-impulse escapement. When the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon was finally revealed, it was worth the wait. While arguably a bit plain on the outside, the movement exhibits a degree of grace and technicality that is still quite rare. The watch is truly a sleeper, in the sense that the case and dial reveal little of the horological magic within. Daniel Roth Tourbillon – Brandon Moore It’s counterintuitive to be writing about the launch of the Daniel Roth brand in 2024, considering the man himself was one of the seminal independent watchmakers ...