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New & Reviewed: H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade
H. Moser releases an addition to the Streamliner Tourbillon line with a novelty in red gold with bracelet and a natural jade dial.
Results for Pie Pan Dial
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SJX Watches
Longines Revives Novel Central Power Reserve Display
Longines’ latest launch is unexpected in featuring a novel take on a useful complication: the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve has a power reserve indicator positioned at the centre of the dial, on the same axis as the hands. Though unusual, the central power reserve is actually found in the Conquest ref. 9028 from 1959, making this something of a vintage remake, which makes its debut just in time for the 70th anniversary of the Conquest collection. Initial thoughts The current Conquest collection is somewhat forgotten because it’s positioned between Longines’ sports watches like the Spirit and the vintage-inspired Heritage and Master models. Fortunately the new Conquest is interesting enough to stand out. Even though it’s not a new invention, the central power reserve indicator is uncommon. Furthermore, this particular power reserve display is a clever two-disc construction that makes the indicator a bit more life, so it adds visual flair to the dial. The central power reserve is arguably more legible than conventional indicators that are smaller. At the same time it gives the dial a pleasing symmetrical layout. Because of the symmetry, the date indicator at 12 actually works well and improves the dial design. Perhaps only downside of the design is the seemingly chunky case. Like many other Longines models, this Conquest appears to have thick lugs despite being fairly compact in diameter. In terms of price, the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve is mor...
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With HZ Watches – The Latest Australian Microbrand!
The latest microbrand from Australia is about to launch, and we’ve been wearing their launch model, the HZ.01 for the last week getting a feel for it and the brand! What We Love The vintage-inspired lookThe ability to dress up or downThe circular graining on the dial and green outer track that pops What We Don’t Slightly on the smaller sizeDate window a little too smallLack of lume on the numerals Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 8/10 It’s not every day that you get to go hands on with a watch prior to its launch, well, not for an extended period of time and even rarer to wear it for a week or so and have fun with it to review. And when this is the launch model for a brand-new microbrand from Australia, then it is a privilege to test it out, and not only give feedback back to the brand, but let the general watch-buying public know about it and help support a fellow enthusiast-turned-watch maker with their new endeavour. A Bit Of Background HZ Watches is the brainchild of Matthew Zillman, a Melbourne local who, like many of us, developed a love for watches at an early age. Having had some early model Seiko’s, he got into watch modding and building after doing a movement swap on a Seiko 5 with the 7s26 movement. And in his words: “Before I had time to blink, I was modding and creating different custom SKX mods for myself and a few friends at university, which soon blossomed into Seiko Mods Australia” One ...
Fratello
The Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - It Has Been 20 Years
Two decades ago, Omega reintroduced the racing dial to the Speedmaster Professional. It was only for the Japanese market, and only 2,004 pieces were produced. As you might know, there are more of them around, but we’ll get to that later. Speedmaster Japan Racing 3570.40 First, let’s go back 20 years. At that time, Omega […] Visit The Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - It Has Been 20 Years to read the full article.
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New: Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar
Frederique Constant unveils the new Slimline Perpetual Calendar with an openworked dial, in a collaboration with Peter Speake.
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Still DONE with Patek Philippe Watches
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Review: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007G
Patek Philippe are one and synonymous with the classic dress watch, the most famous of which is the Calatrava. The prototypical Calatrava can be described as having a round, slim case made of precious metal, with a clean dial and excellent legibility. While the core of the collection remains true to these principles, that PatekRead More
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Rectangular Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone in Rose Gold
In 2019, Moritz Grossmann ventured into the scarcely populated territory of rectangular watches, unveiling three dial variants in five different versions as part of the Art Deco-inspired and appropriately named Corner Stone series. The Corner Stone featured a specially designed shaped calibre with a central hour and minutes display and a small seconds sub-dial at […]
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces an Atypical Classique for the Year of the Dragon
Continuing a recent streak of unusual designs that depart from its traditional formality, Breguet is marking the Chinese Lunar New Year with the Classique “Dragon” ref. 7145BR. Unlike last year’s “Rabbit” edition that was a whimsical ladies’ watch, this year’s Chinese zodiac edition is an ultra-thin men’s watch with a surprisingly vivid and figurative enamel dial in two shades of red. Initial thoughts A dragon-themed watch is not unexpected, and Breguet joins brands like Vacheron Constantin and Blancpain in launching such watches for the Lunar New Year. The watch itself, however, is a radical departure from the usual Breguet style in both colour and execution. Even though there are enough elements on the dial to mark it out as a Breguet, the aesthetic is more elaborate than the average Breguet, which tends towards classical restraint. Even though it is different, I like this approach because it offers something new in terms of aesthetics. That said, the engraved dragon appliqué isn’t exactly right in terms of design. The creature is too stout and lacks the slender proportions of the dragon as portrayed in Classical Chinese art. The overall aesthetic would have been much improved with a restyled dragon. The execution is in the high quality expected of Breguet, so the dragon is solid gold and the dial is grand feu enamel. As a result, the price is US$77,800, significantly greater than the standard Classique 5157, but within the ballpark for such metiers d...
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New: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Quartz ladies
Vacheron Constantin releases a new model of their Overseas Quartz for the ladies in 18k 5N pink gold with a translucent denim blue lacquered dial.
SJX Watches
Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Pointer Date
Oris gives its signature model a subtle makeover with the Big Crown Father Time Limited Edition, a collaboration with Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC). This release commemorates the pair’s three-year collaboration that began in 2022 and combines a 40 mm bronze case with a creamy white dial. Initial thoughts The Big Crown Father Time is best described as a cricket-themed variation of the bronze Big Crown Pointer Date. The cricket element, however, is subtle and practically absent from the dial, which is not a bad thing since it gives the watch the widest possible appeal. Setting aside the cricket theme, the contrast between the dial elements and the dial itself is appealing. The watch stands out in terms of legibility due to this contrast. The cathedral hands and extra-large crown add a nice touch that evoke vintage Oris models. And though I’m typically a fan of fluted bezels, this one works well. This is equipped with a Sellita SW 200-1 instead of an in-house movement. However, with a retail price of US$3,100, it is still acceptable value. “Father Time” Sitting on top of the clock tower, Father Time is the weathervane at Lord’s Cricket Ground and was gifted to MCC in 1926 by architect Sir Herbert Baker. Because Lord’s is the “Home of Cricket”, and the MCC once the sport’s governing body, Father Time is one of the globally recognised symbols of the sport. The Big Crown Pointer Date, on the other hand, is synonymous with Oris. Introduced in 1938 as a pilot’...
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Hodinkee Quits Selling Watches
SJX Watches
Omega Updates the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Apollo 8”
Six years ago, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Apollo 8”, a distinctive take on the Speedmaster Moonwatch featuring a Moon surface-patterned movement and dial. Basically an amalgamation of the all-ceramic Dark Side of the Moon (DSOTM) with the Moonwatch, the model has now undergone a significant mechanical upgrades with a new METAS-certified calibre, while preserving essentially the same design. Initial thoughts The original Apollo 8 was noteworthy for challenging the traditional concept of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. While it had the same movement and dimensions, the materials, styling, and finishing were entirely different. Visually, it was a major departure from the familiar Moonwatch. The latest version sticks to the same aesthetic, so it doesn’t bring much novelty in terms of appearance, save for a rocket-shaped seconds hand. But it does have an upgraded movement, essentially the next-generation Moonwatch movement finished in the Apollo 8 style. As is often the case with Omega, incremental improvements to existing models are a means to explore new concepts or technologies, which in the case of the original Apollo 8 would have been the textured lunar-surface finishing. This new model would have been more significant if a more developed or advanced version of the texturing had been applied, setting it apart more obviously from its predecessor. Priced at US$14,300, the upgraded Apollo 8 falls sits at the middle of the price range for the cera...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Genus Dragon Gives Wings to Genus’ Mesmerising Spectacle of Time
Genus, founded by Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières in 2019, has wowed the watch world with its wildly creative and kinetic time displays. This year has been particularly rich in dragon-themed watches, but the dragons gracing the Genus Dragon dial are a world apart. Just ahead of the Chinese Year of the Dragon, Genus releases […]
Monochrome
First Look – The New Zenith Pilot Automatic and Big Date Flyback Blue Boutique Editions
Nearly a year ago, Zenith made a striking debut with the all-new Pilot collection, introducing the Big Date Flyback chronograph and the Automatic models, both available in either stainless steel or black ceramic. A departure from the earlier Zenith Pilot references, these watches showcased a fresh look, featuring a new case and crown, dial designs, […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ06 Wandering Star
I always look forward to checking out a new release from Direnzo. There’s always more than meets the eye, and the DRZ06 Wandering Star is no exception. The watch is a marriage of the familiar and the unexpected. In this case, the ‘familiar’ is an evolution of Direnzo’s retro-futuristic design language, including a dish-shaped dial, bold colors, and organic-feeling markers cut into a sandwich dial. The ‘unexpected’ is the presence of a mystery dial. It’s now some years since I wrote about the originals and heyday of the Mystery Dial here, but it’s still a feature I’d like to see more of. I guess many watchmakers might be deterred from attempting this as it’s difficult to avoid the mystery being the interesting thing about a watch and therefore becoming little more than a gimmick. Perhaps the reason it has been implemented successfully as part of the DRZ06 Wandering Star is that we just have a mystery sub-dial for the running seconds, with a lone red dot slowly spinning around against the lumed backdrop. Last summer I spent some time with Direnzo’s previous release – a reworking of one of their earliest models. The case of the new DRZ06 is similar in shape to that of the DRZ02 Aerolite, but with some subtle changes that blend to give a different character. For starters, the brushed steel bezel is larger in every way. Despite the main watch case being a soft square shape, this strong bezel makes the watch feel far rounder. The Wandering Star still pull...
Time+Tide
The many layers of the Constellar Origin
An intricate dial, compact case, manually wound movement, and some laser-engraved finesse - there's a lot to like here.The post The many layers of the Constellar Origin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Are OMEGA Watches Worth It Anymore?
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New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon
Bell & Ross is a watch brand that is known for its aviation-inspired timepieces and the iconic square dash gauge case design. The latest addition to their collection is the BR 05 Artline Dragon, a limited edition model that features a dragon motif on the dial and the case. The dragon is a symbol of power, wisdom and luck in many cultures, and it is also a tribute to the Chinese New Year of the Dragon in 2024.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: The Zenith Chronomaster Tribute to Charles Vermot – Reprise
Quentin R. Bufogle could go on and on about the Zenith Chronomaster Tribute to Charles Vermot’s stunningly beautiful, metallic blue dial, silicon escapement (visible via the open heart feature), COSC chronometer certification and that it’s one of the last truly great Chronomasters, but that would be missing the point, i.e. how Charles Vermot saved Zenith.
WatchAdvice
OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: 2023 Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Review
What’s it like to own the Tudor Back Bay GMT Opaline Dial? And is it better than the original Black Bay GMT with the black dial? After spending half the year with mine, I know my answer! Purchasing Expectations Loved the bulky aesthetic Wanted a traveller’s GMT that ticked all the boxes My first Swiss luxury watch brand Ownership Reality Incredibly well-rounded and reliable; A true GADA timepiece Perhaps too bulky, almost unbalanced even on the bracelet Where is the in-clasp adjustment? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Taking the Pepsi Plunge If you have just dipped your toes into the whirlpool that is the watch world, you would know the recognisable blue and red colours of the Rolex GMT-Master II, nicknamed “Pepsi.” You would also know that acquiring such a watch is – for want of a better phrase – a massive pain in the behind! To even get a chance at one, you must: A) Know a guy who knows a guy, or B) Play games with the Authorised Dealer for what can extend to an eternity, or C) Fork over exorbitant amounts of money for instant gratification on the secondary market. If you’re in the same financial situation as me, or even significantly wealthier, this kind of behaviour would put anyone off from trying to get one. Even so, they are still incredibly popular – but that’s a whole different rabbit hole to go down. So, when Tudor released the original Bla...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon Apollo 8
The latest addition to the Dark Side collection changes much more than just the dial.
SJX Watches
Review: Hermès’ Super Hero “Super H” in Miniature Painting
Capturing the spirit of Hermès well with its whimsical yet artisanal dial, the Slim d’Hermès Minuit au Faubourg features a miniature painting depicting “Super H”, a caped superhero over the streets of Paris with the Eiffel Tower visible in the background. Because it is Hermès, the superhero is a horse and the location is 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the brand’s original store. Like many of Hermès métiers d’art creations, the dial is inspired by a scarf. Here the motif is replicated in “micro-painting”, sometimes known as “cold enamel”, a technique that employs acrylic paint, much like larger-scale artwork. Initial thoughts Despite being one of the most desirable luxury brands – its shares trade at a higher valuation than any of peers – Hermès maintains a whimsical streak that is evident in many of its creations, including last year’s Space Derby depicting jockeys racing robot horses across the stars. The prices are serious and quality, high, but some products possess a subtle humour. The Minuit au Faubourg, which translates as “midnight at Faubourg”, is exactly that. A superhero horse with a luminous “H” signal in the night sky – there are few other brands that can credibly pull off something similar. This is a testament to the careful curation of the Hermès brand. But despite the comic book theme, the dial is executed entirely by hand. Although miniature painting in acrylic doesn’t have the cachet of enamel, indeed it is typ...
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Why The Watch Market ACTUALLY Crashed
Hodinkee
Introducing: Oris Brings Back The Bronze For Its Latest Pointer Date Limited Edition
A new dial color keeps the heritage ties strong for the latest addition to the Pointer Date collection celebrating Oris' cricket collaboration.
Worn & Wound
Nodus and The Smoking Tire’s Matt Farah Team Up for a Bold, Driving Inspired LE
Automotive inspired watches come in many different forms. There are watches that draw attention to aesthetic similarities between well understood components of cars and watches (dials that look like gauges on a dashboard, or even putting an automaker’s badge on the dial). And then there are watches that are, ostensibly, meant to be thought of as tools for motorsport – chronographs with tachymeter scales and the like. But there’s another category – the one I tend to prefer – that takes a more abstract approach. These are watches that are imbued with the feeling of driving in their design. Autodromo, of course, are masters at this. Their watches capture a driving aesthetic that doesn’t simply port over elements of vehicle design into a watch, and they use color and texture to evoke specific aspects of driving culture. The latest from Nodus, their second collaboration with automotive personality Matt Farah, is very much in that vein. The new Nodus Canyon in Sunset Orange follows the successful launch of the Mint colorway of the same watch last year (it sold out immediately to Farah’s Patreon subscribers). The watch, designed by Farah, is conceived as an everyday sports watch, with a 41mm stainless steel case that measures 11.5mm tall and 47mm from lug to lug. To look at the watch, you would not immediately clock it as automotive inspired, but it’s filled with subtle and personal details from Farah’s long history in the automotive world that will make it rewa...
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon”
Continuing with its occasional special editions to celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC has just released the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon” to mark honour the Year of the Wood Dragon commencing in early 2024. This limited edition is essentially the classic Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3716 but with a striking burgundy dial featuring gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts Burgundy dials on the Portugieser stand out as demonstrated by last year’s Portugieser Automatic 40, so it was inevitable to see it on the Portugieser Chronograph. The fact that this is a limited edition isn’t a big deal since IWC does a fair number of limited editions. But this specific watch, however, does look good. Whilst the design remains identical to the original, this has all of the dial elements in either gold-plating or powder-gilt print, which are more visually complementary than the combination of gold and black found on the silver dial of the standard steel model. The new look incurs an extra charge of US$950 in comparison to the standard production model, culminating in a retail price of US$9,350. While not a great deal by any means, it’s a reasonable premium, given the new dial and commemorative rotor. However, it is a limited edition of 1,000 watches, a substantial number given IWC’s scale, so the brand should have either reduced the premium or edition size to boost the appeal. The Portugieser Automatic 40 “Year of the Rabbit” from 2022. Image – IWC ...
SJX Watches
Review: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon”
Arriving just as the Dragon year begins in February, the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon” is the latest illustration of the Geneva brand’s artisanal and technical capabilities, with a hand-engraved dragon sculpture on a grand feu enamel dial and an in-house calibre that indicates the time and calendar on discs. The “Year of the Dragon” is the final chapter in the brand’s Chinese Zodiac collection, an annual series of limited editions that began in 2012 with the rabbit. With the Chinese zodiac made up of a repeating 12-year cycle – with each year represented by an animal – the series reaches its conclusion with this dragon edition, which like its predecessors is available in either pink gold or platinum. Initial thoughts Dragon-themed watches have already started to proliferate with the incoming Year of the Dragon, simply because the dragon has the most universal appeal amongst all of the zodiac animals. It carries desirable symbolism across East Asia, as opposed to say, the rodent or pig, which have a niche audience. So the appeal of a dragon watch is arguably less about the motif, which is now common, but the execution. And here the Metiers d’Art “Year of the Dragon” excels in both presentation and technique. I’ve always been fond of Vacheron Constantin’s quadruple-disc display because it is both logical and attractive. The display makes sense because it leaves majority of the dial free fo...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw”
Last year, Heinrich introduced an eye-catching dial in an all new case. Each of Heinrich’s watches up to this point have been described as vintage inspired with strong 70s vibes.The Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” is no different, with the dial taking fairly direct inspiration from Universal Genève’s Unisonic “Buzzsaw” tuning fork watch from the late 1960s and ‘70s. Whether we will see a reincarnation of this design from Universal Genève under Breitling’s stewardship remains to be seen, but if you are crying out for a funky dial design at an affordable price, this could be the watch for you. The Helicoprion name comes from an extinct genus of shark-like fish, which had a spiral of teeth in its lower jaw – the teeth increasing in size as it spiraled outwards. This creature, along with Heinrich’s latest watch, has also been dubbed the “Buzzsaw” due to the similar circular tooth configuration seen on the blade of a circular saw. While the Universal Genève reference also saw each tooth shifting to a darker or lighter shade as they increased in size, the Heinrich Helicoprion dial markings are presented in a single color as the teeth grow between each hour (or five minute) index. $558 Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 or Sellita SW200 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Beads of rice bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 40 x 47.8mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty ...
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