Hodinkee
Introducing: Tissot Adds A Gold PVD Case And Ice Blue Dial To Its PRX Powermatic 80 35mm Lineup
The mid-size PRX lineup continues to fill out.
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Hodinkee
The mid-size PRX lineup continues to fill out.
Worn & Wound
Alternative realities have long held the imagination of humans. From ancient Roman historian, Livy, to 20th century physicist, Hugh Everett, to Marvel movies of today, we have long tried to answer the question of, “What if…” Now, Swatch has taken it upon themselves to ask this very question in their latest collection, aptly titled WHAT IF? To understand this new release, one must look back into Swatch’s history for a moment. In 1982, the Swiss watch brand had a choice between a round or square model that would be their inaugural design. While we all know the circular design that has become standard for Swatch, WHAT IF? is an alternative reality of sorts, showing us what could have been, had they gone with a square dial from the beginning. Four colorways are available in the WHAT IF? collection, including black, gray, beige, and green. While these may seem like a complete 180 from the vibrant colorways that are now synonymous with Swatch, the neutral tones of the WHAT IF? series reflect the design sensibilities of the early 1980s – which somehow still feel modern today. Each model in the series is made from Swatch’s proprietary bioceramic material (a phrase you’ll know if you were a fan of their MoonSwatch release last year). Mixing ceramic powder with bio sourced materials, bioceramic is inherently durable without added weight or bulk, making it a perfect material for an everyday timepiece like those in the Swatch collection. Each reference clocks in at 33mm,...
Revolution
Join Wei and Constant as they deep dive into the latest Grail Watch collaboration, Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ which showcases the incredible artistry of two of the brightest names in independent watchmaking. Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ is housed in a […]
Hodinkee
Get the car, get the watch.
Time+Tide
Wear your watch on your left wrist. Don’t pair a diving watch with a tuxedo. Match the colour of your watch strap with the leather of your shoes… There are plenty of purported “watch rules”, most of which are widely ignored (often with some justification). But now there’s a niche issue that’s getting people on … ContinuedThe post TikTok is going crazy about people wearing Apple watches at weddings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
An up close look at Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’. The 37mm white gold case measures 46mm from lug to lug and features a captivating sterling silver dial adorned with intricate guilloché with Clous de Paris motif and Breguet numerals. It is complemented by one of the world’s […]
Time+Tide
If you’ve jumped into the deep end of the watch collecting pool, you’ve probably accumulated a few tools for accomplishing minor tasks, such as changing straps and bracelets, installing new batteries in quartz watches, and general cleaning chores. At some point in your collecting journey, you’ve probably picked up one of those generic sets from … ContinuedThe post Frustration-free watch tool upgrades everyone should own appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
This debut of Barcelona-born artist Andre Martinez shows the full skill and creativity he has at his fingertips. Perhaps one of the industry’s most prolific hidden talents, Mr Martinez has been the go-to artist for miniature painting in acrylic for some three decades. His clients over the years have ranged from Bovet to Van Cleef & Arpels. Martinez is now launching his own brand, starting with five watches, and the option of unique commissions. Initial thoughts Mr Martinez’s speciality of miniature painting in acrylic is often regarded as being lesser than enamel. That, however, is an unjust assessment because his very best work is outstanding with a level of artistry is not often seen. Painting with a single hair and microscope, Mr Martinez can produce (or reproduce) works of art with incredible detail – but on a very, very small scale. In fact, the artistry is of a level that is nearly unmatched across the rest of the industry. You would need to turn to the likes of Anita Porchet to equal it, but even she works in a different medium. Having the luxury to customise the motif that appears on the dial is a great bonus, with no restriction on subject or composition. The only thing that will stay the same is the naturally occurring mother-of-pearl canvas. So in some ways, the appeal of the final result depends on the taste of the client. It is clear his work should be thought of as a piece of art first, and a watch second. While the quality of his painting is un...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Few watches have the impact of the Baltic MR01, but is it right for you? Learn what makes the MR01 unique among other microbrand pieces!
Deployant
Bell & Ross adds a green dial to their BR 05 Chrono in Steel to 11 watches in the collection. Available with a steel bracelet or a green rubber strap.
Time+Tide
There are those rare times when the watch industry seemingly comes together to do something great, causing even the most devoted online trolls to retreat beneath their virtual bridges and save us from their dubious wisdom. One such occasion is the Only Watch charity auction, running since 2005 and created to benefit those affected by … ContinuedThe post Borna’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tucked away on a wooded island in the Pacific Northwest lies one of the most important horological workshops in the United States. Known as Memoria Technica, the workshop is owned by Brittany Nicole “Nico” Cox, a renowned conservator of mechanical objects. I was first introduced to Nico in 2019 by Joshua Shapiro, the California-based watchmaker and guillocheur behind J.N. Shapiro. Joshua and I happened to visit Nico’s workshop on a day when she was teaching a beginner’s course on the art of guilloche. Since that encounter, I’d always had it in mind to return and take her class, but life (and a global pandemic) got in the way until I was finally able to secure a spot in her July class this year. But what is guilloche? Within the context of decorative techniques, guilloche, also known as engine turning, occupies a niche all its own. Characterised by intricate, recurring, and overlapping patterns, guilloche techniques have been used to decorate some of the most coveted objects in history. Meet your instructor In the rarified world of antiquarian horology, Nico is practically a household name – a bit like Beyonce. Nico specialises in the conservation and restoration of all types of mechanical objects, from watches and clocks to music boxes and automata. Having trained as a conservator at the Museum Speelklok in the Netherlands, which houses one of the world’s largest collections of mechanical musical objects, Nico is especially passionate about automata. Not onl...
Time+Tide
Swatch keeps the MoonSwatch mania alive with a Mission to Moonshine Gold watch released to coincide with National Swiss Day.The post Another month, another MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold – this time with more lanterns! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...
Deployant
Swatch release four new references in Bioceramic in a square case in black, gray, green and beige (blue dial). Introducing the BIOCERAMIC WHAT IF?
Time+Tide
The Only Watch auction not only benefits a great cause (Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research), but it’s also an event that really lets watchmakers run rampant and show off their horological chops. It’s almost like the watch world’s version of the Met Gala, where designers can truly cut loose, free of the bonds of commerce, and … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
David Lindon is a micro artist who makes artworks so small they can fit inside the eye of a needle. They’re so tiny that he once breathed too hard and an artwork disappeared up his nose. “I inhaled it by accident, and poof. It was gone,” the British artist told The Washington Post. “To do … ContinuedThe post Ear goes: Artist recreates three microscopic Van Gogh masterpieces inside tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Discover the new Longines Master Small Seconds models, featuring elegant and refined designs with engraved dials and Breguet-style numerals. Learn more about the features, specifications, and prices of these timeless watches.
Time+Tide
These last seven days have been full of events in the watch industry, from controversial, vintage-inspired releases, to Omega starting the countdown to the 2024 Olympics. And for the first time, a furniture and lighting company surprisingly joins the list: we are very curious to see how that one will evolve. Enjoy! Raymond Weil Freelancer … ContinuedThe post New releases from Studio Underd0g, Omega and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The United States celebrated several historic milestones in 2019, and Nancy Olson shares these events – which includes both trains and the moon – commemorated by four luxury writing instruments.
Deployant
Our first acquaintance with Ressence came in the early part of last decade, when the young upstart produced the now iconic Type 3. The Type 3, even in today’s age, still looks extremely modern and refreshing. Imagine how amazed we were when we first saw the timepiece a decade ago. That was also perhaps theRead More
Time+Tide
Despite being launched during the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders, Bulgari’s summer-ready intentions were clear with their latest Aluminium limited edition duo. Named the Capri and Match Point, both seem perfectly capable companions for any holiday adventure, whether it be dipping into the azure waters off the Italian coast, or playing three points of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Bulgari’s new Aluminium Capri and Match Point get a splash of summer-ready colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Our Friday Wind-Down usually serves as a restful, fun read after a week of slaving away beneath fluorescent bulbs and drop ceilings. This week, however, catastrophic news from La Chaux-de-Fonds has put a dampener on things, as inclement weather ripped through the region, causing significant damage to buildings, more than a dozen injured people, and, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Movement maker giant Sellita caught up in Swiss super-storm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
It’s no secret that enthusiasts are spoiled for choice when it comes to great dive watches these days, especially in the sub 40mm category. There are options both vintage (literally and aesthetically) and modern across the price spectrum offering some creative (and some less creative) takes on this ever evolving genre being released with increasing pace. One of the brands responsible for this resurgence is of course Tudor, who released the Black Bay over a decade ago, which is partly responsible for the golden age we’re currently enjoying. The modern Black Bay is still recognizable as such, though it’s undergone some subtle renovations in recent generations, most recently welcoming a 37mm variant called the Black Bay 54, which we reviewed in-depth right here. With the Black Bay 54 in hand, we took the opportunity to compare it to a few other Tudor divers that have recently been released, each under 40mm in size, and each with its own unique personality (well, as far as divers go, at least). The Black Bay Pro and the Pelagos 39 are well understood at this point, and viewing them alongside the new Black Bay 54 begins to paint a clearer picture of Tudor’s potential game plan, or at least their philosophy of evolutionary branches. In this video, Zach and Blake take a step back to view these watches through a different lens, and explore the differences between designations and families within Tudor’s gameplan. How is the Black Bay Pro holding up after its first year? ...
Deployant
Ba111od releases a new model combining their super-value tourbillon with a GMT feature, bringing travel functionality to the watch to the Chapter 4.6.
SJX Watches
Longines marked a historical milestone last year with the well-received Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a watch that combines classic good looks with a modest price tag. Now the brand has taken the same styling and applied it to another model to create the Master Collection Small Seconds. The Small Seconds makes its debut in a pleasing variety of dial colours, including a fashionable “salmon”. As much of a value proposition as last year’s anniversary model, the Small Seconds retains the same aesthetic as its predecessor but with a subsidiary seconds at six that gives it a more retro feel. But because of the small seconds, it becomes a noticeably thicker watch. So even though it looks much like the anniversary edition, the Small Seconds feels different. Initial thoughts The Small Seconds is largely identical to its centre-seconds counterpart, so it has much of the same appeal. The design is a pleasing vintage style with all the right elements like Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Admittedly, the styling is somewhat generic – it’s vintage inspired rather than a remake – but the result is appealing, especially considering its affordability. Although the watch is clearly an industrial product, the details are done well, the engraved numerals are especially attractive. This is especially so on the anthracite and salmon dials, which have the numerals in contrasting plating. The anthracite dial is especially striking because it is a relatively uncommon co...
Worn & Wound
Origin stories in this hobby influence the rabbit holes we follow. My story began when I learned not all modern watches have batteries. The simple idea that mechanical watches were still being made, sold down the street from me, and could run for years without intervention blew my mind. Partially because it was mechanically impressive, but mostly because of how unnecessary it was. The concept of dozens of components interacting to move hands around a dial, when a perfectly functional watch can be purchased at the grocery store for $20, resonated with me. My discovery of these rebelliously absurd contraptions came at a time in my life when I had two kids in daycare and income was not disposable. My first mechanical watch was a one-handed Luch, a watch I loved dearly, and purchased for about $50. I didn’t care about finishing or accuracy, just that I had something unnecessarily complicated strapped to my wrist. Years later, my philosophy hasn’t changed much. When considering a new watch, I always ask myself three questions: What does it do? Does that thing excite me? Is there anything about the watch that doesn’t excite me? That third question is the one that keeps my collection and budget in check. The answers I come up with, always rooted in my original fascination with accessibly priced mechanical timekeeping, have surprised me. Some are movement specific, and others centered around design. Photo by Nathan Schultz So, to kick off a two-part series where I will try n...
Teddy Baldassarre
Barely more than two decades in existence, Richard Mille is one of the luxury watch industry’s most compelling modern success stories and one of the most popular and recognizable brands out there - despite the fact that it makes timepieces that are wildly inaccessible to all but the most deep-pocketed and well-connected aficionados. To many who follow the industry, the brand’s stratospheric prices are the story: In 2022, for example, Richard Mille did $487 million in sales, despite the fact that it only made 5,400 watches that year. Yes, that averages out to more than $90,000 per watch, and even that rather stunning stat doesn’t represent the big picture, as many of Richard Mille’s most coveted models come in at an MSRP in the neighborhood of half a million dollars or more. In its 2023 analysis of the Swiss watch market, Morgan Stanley reports that Richard Mille is now the sixth largest Swiss watch brand in the world in terms of sales, right behind Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. So why are Richard Mille watches so expensive and what factors set them apart from every other watchmaker in the highest echelons of horology? Read on. Origins: The Man Behind Richard Mille Watches The foundations of the Richard Mille watch brand reach back to 1988, when its namesake, Richard Mille, Head of Watchmaking and CEO of Jewellery at Paris-based jewelry house Mauboussin, met Dominique Guenat, owner of Guenat SA Montres Valgine, a watchmaker in the S...
SJX Watches
Historically known for its over-the-top jewelled watches and oversized complications, Jacob & Co. recently debuted a watch that is very much quintessential Jacob, but surprisingly novel in mechanical terms. The Astronomia Revolution sticks to the distinctive, extra-large styling that defines the model, but contains an all-new movement that combines several complex assemblies into an even more complex movement, all in the name of a dynamic, fast-rotating display. Carrying the tourbillon and time display, the carousel is impressively quick and completes one revolution a minute, a feat made possible by a one-sixth-of-a-second constant-force mechanism and a differential for the time display. The kinetic nature of the dial means this is unlike any other mechanical watch. Initial thoughts The Astronomia Revolution made it into my list of notable complications unveiled at Watches & Wonders earlier this year: “[The] Revolution seems like yet another variant of the New York jeweller’s bestselling and bulbous timepiece… Except that it is not… While past versions of the Astronomia required between ten to 20 minutes or more for the carousel to complete one rotation, the Revolution does it in one minute [and] functions as a minute hand. To move a component that large at such a speed is unprecedented…” Which pretty much sums it up. It looks like a typical Jacob & Co. watch, but is much more interesting mechanically. That is because the movement goes against the prevailing co...
Worn & Wound
Oppenheimer, the new film by Chrisopher Nolan, opened this weekend. And if there’s one thing we know we’re going to get with a Nolan film, it’s a very loud soundtrack. But if there are two things, the other is probably the use of a handful of Hamilton watches throughout. The director has forged a partnership with the brand going back to Interstellar in 2014 and Tenet in 2020. Both of those films used Hamilton watches that were customized in some way, and played integral roles in the telling of the story. For Interstellar, the “Murph” watch allowed Matthew McConaughey’s astronaut character to communicate through time and space with his daughter back home on the farm, thereby imparting secrets of quantum physics that would later save the planet (or something). And in Tenet, a Hamilton BeLOWZERO was custom fit with a backwards running timer, because, well, it would take too long to explain. But the point is, these watches played a real role in Nolan’s storytelling. They were props, but not just props. A vintage Cushion B, Lexington, and Endicott, worn by Cillian Murphy in Oppenheimer Oppenheimer is a whole other kettle of fish, however. Unlike Tenet and Interstellar, Nolan’s latest is based on actual events, specifically the building and detonation of the first atomic weapons. Without sci-fi flights of fancy and what we anticipate will be some adherence to the historical record, there’s no need for the watches in the film to perform parlor tricks – they ...
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