35,361 articles · 151 videos found · page 133 of 1184
Fratello
Ask any seasoned collector what his or her grail watch was upon first entering the hobby, and chances are the answer will be very different from what it is today. As our knowledge grows and our tastes mature, so too do the watches we aspire to own. Sometimes the grail gets bigger, sometimes it gets […] Visit Fratello Talks: How Our Grail Watches Have Evolved Over Time to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Gebhard Duve-designed Audemars Piguet Disco Volante 5093 took the horological world by storm in the mid-1950s, and there’s no denying that it remains an exemplar of well-executed watch design today. With the combination of the ongoing Space Race and Mid-century futuristic design movement came an influx of wildly shaped and uniquely proportioned wristwatches throughout the middle portion of the 20th century. One of the most popular designs was the UFO, with brands like Omega, Timex, Zenith, Gruen, and Ruhla employing this case architecture in their 1950s, 60s, and even 70s catalogs. While I’ve had the chance to own a Timex UFO model and handle an Omega Dynamic, it’s the Ruhla you see pictured above that really caught my eye. Why? Let’s dig in. Brief History of Ruhla and The UFO Model Ruhla’s watch production, initially named “Gebrüder Thiel GmbH,” began in 1892 with its “Fearless” pocket watch, becoming the first mass-produced timepiece put to market. Fast forward decades later to 1952, and the company is renamed “Uhren und Maschinenfabrik Ruhla,” or Ruhla for short, and continues production of watches and movements for both the domestic East German and international markets. Ruhla quickly found great success throughout this era, with their plant becoming one of, if not the, world’s largest watchmaking factory. By 1963, the Ruhla logo seen on my UFO example was applied to all the company’s domestic models and was used until the brand’s closu...
Monochrome
Introduced in 1996 with the reference 5035, Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar was neither a simplified perpetual calendar nor an upgraded complete calendar, but an entirely new mechanism protected by a patent; we explained the full story of its creation and evolution in this article here. By automatically distinguishing between months with 30 and 31 days, […]
Hodinkee
Two months ago, I spent a Friday lunch eating a sandwich called the Crazy Poulet at Notos Bar Restaurant in Le Sentier with Mark Schmid, who is a sort of jack-of-all-trades in the marketing and communications department at Audemars Piguet. Schmid has quickly become someone I'd consider a friend, whom I appreciate for our candid conversations, his willingness (and frequency) to correct my confusion between l'accent aigu and l'accent grave in articles, and, more recently, his gastronomic suggestions. I'm sure this story will require a few more corrections from Mark, for which I apologize (mostly to him) in advance, but I wanted to share a recent experience that illustrates why I love Switzerland's Vallée de Joux, past and present. Le Sentier, pictured back in 2022 on the author's first trip to Switzerland. The town, now home to the headquarters of Jaeger-LeCoultre, was the hometown of Samuel-Olivier Meylan, the first watchmaker in the valley who began crafting timepieces around 1743 and set the stage for what is arguably the most important geographic location in watchmaking. "People ask me what I'd want to do if I didn't work at Hodinkee," I said. "Sometimes I say that I wish I could be the head of the tourism bureau for the Vallée de Joux." "Well, maybe you could be our advocate in New York," he said. "But if you came back here on a Thursday night at 4 o'clock, this place would be full. You'd hear watchmakers talking about all the things they were up to at AP, JLC, Blancp...
Monochrome
Chopard, the Official Timekeeper and World Sponsor of the famous Italian endurance rally since 1988, has released countless chronographs inspired by the Mille Miglia race, its drivers and its iconic route. The Raticosa Pass has already been honoured once before, with a limited-edition series in 2021, and this 2026 Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa pays […]
Monochrome
Stone dials have long held a special place in fine watchmaking. No two are ever alike, each preserving colours, textures and patterns formed over millions of years. For Gerald Charles, working with stone means embracing a challenge. The Masterlink is anything but round, and its asymmetrical silhouette leaves almost no margin for error. See how […]
Monochrome
It’s common for brands to look back for inspiration for future releases, and some put a lot of effort into it. It’s not just about taking the shape of an hour marker or a hand and putting it into an entirely new design. No, it’s more than that, as multiple brands revive past designs almost […]
Fratello
If you collect vintage Angelus watches or are simply interested in the brand, there are a handful of pieces you must hold in your hands. One is the mighty Angelus Chrono-Datoluxe. Another, some argue, is the Medical. The third place on my imaginary podium goes to the Tinkler. Sadly, all three are as rare as […] Visit What Dreams Are Made Of: The Angelus Tinkler 1958 Steel Quarter Repeater to read the full article.
Monochrome
India is huge, as is its appetite for watches. The history of watchmaking in the country, whether on the production or distribution side, is relatively recent but rapidly growing. Helios Luxe, part of Titan, distributes 45 brands and targets the accessible luxury segment. We recently sat down with Diny Markose, the CEO of the group’s watch […]
Hodinkee
Here we go again. It's been a blue ribbon auction year so far, particularly for rare examples of timepieces from independents, including F.P. Journe. During a record-setting spring auction season marked by a stunning shift in valuations and collector interest in top-notch independent watchmakers, an early Chronomètre à Résonance (no. 007) fetched a record $13.9 million, making it the most expensive F.P. Journe watch ever sold at auction and the fifth most expensive watch of all time. Mark wrote up a great piece on the record-breaking result that dives deep into the history of the Résonance and why it's such an important achievement in haute horology, and why it is François-Paul Journe's signature watch. With the prototype produced in 1998, and with 'Souscription' commercial pieces produced and delivered beginning in 2000, Journe's Chronomètre à Résonance marks the first time that the concept of "résonance," combining two movements with separate balances into a single case and bringing them into perfect synchronization, was brought to a wristwatch. For many collectors, the model represents the ultimate expression of Journe's vision and talent as a watchmaker. Just 20 'Souscription' pieces—offered to those who bought Journe's first watch, a tourbillon—were produced, and collectors have come to covet the series, with the earliest watches fetching a premium. When it comes to the Résonance, the earlier the better, it seems. That's why it's newsworthy and worth ...
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the leader behind one of the strongest turnaround stories in the industry in recent years. Guido Terreni joined Parmigiani Fleurier as CEO in January 2021 from Bulgari and has overseen a dramatic transformation in the design, style, and fortunes of the brand founded by master watchmaker and restoration expert Michel Parmigiani in 1996, with backing from the Sandoz Family Foundation. Under Terreni's guidance, Parmigian Fleurier has been transformed. Striving to convey the concept of "private luxury," the brand has released a series of surprising, elegant, technically innovative, and yet restrained timepieces under its Tonda PF and Toric model lines. The brand has done nothing less than reimagine and reinterpret classic complications, including the GMT and, most recently, the Tonda PF Chronograph Mysteriéux, which stole the show, for many, at this year's Watches and Wonders. In a wide-ranging conversation, Terreni unveils the philosophy behind the brand's discreet aesthetic and the structure behind its manufacture and organization. We discuss retail, production, and design concepts aimed at taking Parmigiani Fleurier to the next level in the hyper-competitive luxury space. There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an epis...
Monochrome
The Krayon Anywhere was introduced in 2020 and, since then, stands apart from virtually every other astronomical watch. A more straightforward version of the Everywhere, it can be configured for any location on Earth, displaying the exact times of sunrise and sunset for its owner, and it remains one of the most original complications in […]
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting sports is hard. Unless you're trawling through Instagram accounts and wire photo feeds looking, you're not going to see a lot of watches at the World Cup. FIFA rules prohibit jewelry on the field during play. But then again, any footballer worth their salt has tens of millions of Instagram followers, so it's easier to see what they're wearing during the tournament. Erling Haaland of Norway, a Breitling ambassador, of course, was wearing his Chronomat B01 Erling Haaland Limited Edition. Getty Images. Like tens of millions of others, I've been drawn in by the World Cup. It's been massively exciting, especially this year. And through it all, yes, I've been glancing at the wrists. My first Watch Spotting during the World Cup came while watching the match between Türkiye and the US at a small-town bar in Wisconsin (where it just so happened that a lot of the bar staff were from Türkiye, so shout out to Bayside in Fish Creek and the team, Omer, Ruki, and the rest). But the first thing I noticed was that the Turkish team's Italian manager, Vincenzo Montella, was wearing a Patek 5905R. After cruising Getty, I also saw that, like any good Italian, he owns a Nautilus and a Daytona. So down the rabbit hole I went. Türkiye's manager, Vincenzo Montella, flashing his Patek Philippe 5905R. Getty Images. Unsurprisingly, the teams that have stuck around the longest give us the most chances to see some different watches. There's Kylian Mbappé, a Hublot ambassador, whose l...
Time+Tide
A watch made to go fast, this new collaboration brings two icons of the motor racing world together on your wrist.
Fratello
You want to relax this summer. You want to go to a nice place and chill, re-energize, and enjoy life without a worry in the world. And what is your biggest worry? No, it’s not picking the right summer watch. As always, it’s the kids. Napping on the beach, for example? With one eye on […] Visit Fratello Summer Tip: Keep Track Of Your Kids With Cybex Collection Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
There is a particular type of movement inside almost every mechanical watch you own, and it does something so fundamental to how we experience watchmaking today that it has become entirely invisible. Of course, that is precisely the point: it winds itself. It harvests energy from your wrist as you move through your day, topping […] Visit A Century Of Automatic Watch Movements With Fortis And John Harwood to read the full article.
Fratello
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Seiko released three new models in its Presage Cocktail Time collection. With a 38.5mm diameter, they are smaller, feature a less in-your-face date window at 4:30, and come in three color options. All in all, it’s a nice new offering from Seiko at the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Presage Cocktail Time (38.5mm) Vs. Baltic HMS 002 to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The best GMT watches of 2026 so far are compact and attainable. Seiko, Citizen, Timex, Unimatic, and Christopher Ward all delivered—here are our 5 picks.
Hodinkee
Happy Friday, Ballers, and I hope everyone's buckled in for what looks to be some excellent football (and, if you were lucky enough to catch the England v Mexico match, you've already seen some of the best ever). Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Million "Sherpa Cousin" sells on Sunday the 12th, the 18k Omega Constellation ref 2648 sold for €4218 all-in, the Sarpaneva x Moomin went for $8,800, and the Vacheron Constantin 4111 with the 'washed' dial sold for €100,000. Strays It feels like Seiko 6139s are a sort of necessary step in early collecting. They're lovely vintage watches; there are lots of them out there, and, unless you're hankering for a flawless Resist-dialed Pogue, they're fairly reasonable. This week, Goodwill has a blue-dialed 6139-6005, and it's not only in very good shape but also early in the model run, which you can tell from the 'notch' case (the small cutout for the crown) and the early Z bracelet. Photo courtesy of Goodwill. If you're on the hunt for vintage steel-cased time-only beauties, this Jaeger-LeCoultre sure seems excellent, ditto this Favre-Leuba Daymatic, or this Movado with its bit of patina, and if those aren't quite your tune, there's this NOS Tissot, serviced in 2026, which, yes, is small (31mm), but I dare you to click that link and not get a little distracted by the watch's pristine condition. Rossini's auction on the 11th is chock-full of goodies, but the ones I kept returning to were this RAID edition Speedmaster (if this ...
SJX Watches
One of the leading names in movement development, Concepto marks its 20th year in 2026. Concepto’s founder, Valérien Jaquet, has led the company since its founding in 2006, advised by his father, Jean-Pierre Jaquet, a fabled watch entrepreneur with a controversial history. Now a vertically integrated manufacture capable of creating and producing almost every part of a watch, Concepto is one of the rare handful of movement suppliers that have survived and prospered over the economic cycles of the watch industry. Some of its peers have gone bust, like Christophe Claret, while others, like La Fabrique du Temps, have been acquired by the industry’s giants. From left: Valérien Jaquet, Jean-Pierre Jaquet, and Jacob Arabo. Image – Concepto The company released a statement for its 20th anniversary that reveals some interesting facts about a little-known but crucial aspect of the industry — the specialist suppliers that feed watch brands with movements. Concepto remains a family business boasting some impressive numbers: according to the company, last year’s sales exceeded CHF60 million while output was some 30,000 movements, including about 1,100 tourbillon calibres. According to Concepto, its client list exceeds 100 brands. The list includes names large and small — the firm helped Bulgari set the record for the world’s thinnest tourbillon, while Jacob & Co. tapped Concepto for the V-16 engine automaton in the Bugatti Tourbillon wristwatch. Even Bugatti itself turn...
Teddy Baldassarre
How much do you really know about the watches that have been to outer space? Timekeeping has always been an essential element of space exploration, and the shared history of both pursuits has been a fascinating one, with milestones that go far beyond that quintessential moment that an Omega Speedmaster landed on the mo
Monochrome
The TAG Heuer Monaco is a watch with a rather interesting history, as we explored in this Evergreen article. The watch, introduced in 1969, was a true vessel for innovation at Heuer, not only due to its daring square design but also the integration within this case of one of the earliest automatic chronograph movements, […]
Monochrome
The resurgence of watchmaking in the United States is real. But not through what it used to be in the past, when American watches were produced in large quantities on an industrial scale. Should we complain? Absolutely not. Thanks to names such as RGM (a veteran compared to the rest), J.N. Shapiro or Keaton Myrick, […]
Fratello
Today’s new watches are likely to please fans of fun, funky divers. That’s because Rowing Blazers is back with a brace of cool new Seiko 5 Sports Watches. Naturally, our friend Eric Wind of Wind Vintage has lent a hand in the design. Let’s have a look at these cool new numbers. It must be […] Visit We’re So Back! A Pair Of Seiko 5 Sports × Wind Vintage × Rowing Blazers Divers Arrives to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Originally founded as a guild for working watchmakers, these days, it's a not-for-profit organization "dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education", and is highly respected by both watch hobbyists and the broader industry for its efforts in this regard. In 2016, HSNY launched its Traveling Education program, which has become one of its best-known offerings both in the United States and beyond. These weekend half-day classes, taught by HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers, cover everything that the Society's typical individual NYC evening classes cover. In these classes, students will work on a complete mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. HODINKEE is a long-time supporter of the HSNY, which is why HODINKEE Australia & New Zealand is very proud to announce that these award-winning classes are on the road again — and this time, they're heading to Australia, and we're hosting them. HSNY is visiting Melbourne from October 30 to November 1, hosted by our friends at Time+Tide, and Sydney from November 21 to 22, 2026, hosted by yours truly. This is only the second time HSNY has brought its classes Down Under (the last time being in 2020), so this is a rare and highly anticipated opportunity. While I'm sure some Aussie watch collectors have had...
Monochrome
While the sleek, ultra-thin, record-breaking Octo Finissimo is now the first collection that springs to mind when you mention Bulgari, there are older, equally provocative references like the Bulgari Aluminium. Unveiled in 1998, the Bulgari Aluminium surprised audiences with its radical combination of lightweight aluminium and rubber. With its double Bulgari signature on the black […]
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Wetzlar, Germany, home of the legendary camera and lens maker, Leica. Of course, Leica isn't just an optics company. Since 2015, it's been on a new mission to create watches as well, a project initiated by Leica's controlling shareholder, Dr. Andreas Kaufmann, who is not only passionate about cameras and photography, but also timepieces. Henrik Ekdahl wearing a Leica watch and using a Leica camera in 1996 (left) during his first stint with the brand, and in 2024 (right) wearing a newer model Leica watch, after rejoining the company as head of watches and accessories. (Photo courtesy Leica) The person in charge of Leica's nascent watch ambitions is Henrik Ekdahl, a convivial Swede who has returned to Leica after more than two decades away, spent in the executive ranks of automakers, and, most recently, watchmakers such as IWC. Leica's connection to watchmaking is not unwarranted. Ernst Leitz, the company's founder, studied watchmaking in Neuchâtel in the 1860s. It was partly this mechanical know-how that allowed him to begin producing optical instruments, including microscopes and cameras, in Germany and to create the foundation for the company that would become Leica. The latest iteration of Leica watches, launched in 2022, is currently distributed only at Leica stores and online. Less than 5,000 watches are currently being produced each year by the brand, but Ekdahl says the watch division has ambitions to grow and make fu...
Monochrome
Founded in 1993 by the 11th Duke of Richmond, the Goodwood Festival of Speed has grown into one of motorsport’s most iconic celebrations. In 2025, TAG Heuer returned as Official Timing Partner of the event and will do so again this year, for the 2026 edition (July 9th – July 12th). The brand will be […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko launches three new Presage Cocktail Time crushed ice dial models in steel: HCB001 blue dial, HCB002 green dial, and HCB003 brown dial.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko's Presage Cocktail Time HCB001, HCB002, and HCB003 drop to 38.5mm with gradient crushed-ice dials. A closer, honest look.
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