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Six From Seiko: A Roundup of Amazing Chronographs From the Depths of (Relative) Obscurity Worn & Wound
Seiko Sep 9, 2026

Six From Seiko: A Roundup of Amazing Chronographs From the Depths of (Relative) Obscurity

Vintage Seiko, as most collectors know, is a rich tapestry. Once you learn the story of Colonel William Pogue, or try to track down the funky bracelet that Bruce Lee paired with his own Speed-Timer, the wormholes naturally open themselves, each with their own dizzying amounts of reference numbers, specific models, and fun nicknames for the mind to notice and then squirrel away for later.  But what about the ones you might have overlooked? Midcentury Seiko chronographs are a riot of design variations, bold patterns, and contrasting color schemes—and all backed by genuine innovation in the guise of the first automatic chronograph, flyback movements with stacked register hands, collaborations with luminary designers, and freakish dabbles with postmodernism. It’s what makes them so much fun to pay attention to.  Hence, these six Seiko chronographs that play with the form, proving that even across the decades there are still surprises to rediscover. Not just familiar references, but obscure offshoots.  Seiko 6138-8000 “Baby Panda” Seiko’s dual-register chronograph debuted shortly after the 6139, which we all know as the world’s first automatic chronograph. And while both watches represent futuristic seventies design, the slimmer 6139 takes a backseat to this lineup’s exaggeratedly bulky cases and clashing, patterned color schemes that have garnered nicknames like “UFO,” “Kakume” (“square eyes”), and “John Player Special” (a nickname popularized ...

Introducing: Apple Announces The Apple Watch Series 12 And Apple Watch Ultra 4 (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Sep 9, 2026

Introducing: Apple Announces The Apple Watch Series 12 And Apple Watch Ultra 4 (Live Pics)

Hello from (rather warm) Cupertino, California. Yet another year has flown by, which means once again we continue our more than a decade-long tradition of taking an extremely brief pause from traditional watchmaking to see what's up with the newest editions of the most popular and widely adopted watches in the world. They just happen to be fully digital. And yes, another year of us unpacking what it truly means to be a watch in the comments section. If you're like me and also a tech nerd, you've undoubtedly been following the rumors recently ahead of the launch. It's the first launch event since John Ternus' succession to Tim Cook as Apple's new CEO, and while Ternus stepped into the role a week ago, eyes are undoubtedly peeled to see what the next generation of Apple's designs might entail. But most of the noise was on the rumored foldable iPhone, with very little attention being paid to Apple Watch. Last year's updates were largely subtle changes from a design perspective, mostly around new functionality and small visual improvements. Series 12 — What's New? In short, not much. Those of us (me included) may be disappointed that there isn't a new physical redesign, with the current generation of design language carrying forward and no major changes to speak of. The real changes are under the hood: a new Health Sensing System paired with the S11 chip now takes a heart rate reading every five seconds, all day, and measures HRV up to 24 times more often than before—numbe...

The Business of Watches Podcast: A Market Roundup Of Geneva Watch Days Releases With Tim Jeffreys And TanTan Wang Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Girard-Perregaux MB&F; Sep 9, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: A Market Roundup Of Geneva Watch Days Releases With Tim Jeffreys And TanTan Wang

This week on The Business of Watches: a fresh take on the new releases we saw at Geneva Watch Days and what they might mean for the market. Ahead of a special request summer fondue dinner, Tim, TanTan, and Andy discuss what they saw, what they liked and didn't like from the slew of novelties presented during the event.  We go deep into the debut of Gallet, discussing how the entry-level offering from Breitling's House of Brands will stack up against the competition and how it will re-enter the company into the cut-throat $3,000 to $6,000 price category at a time when the Swiss industry is struggling to halt the slide in volumes.  We also talk about Bulgari, Oris, Frederique Constant, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F;, and the latest MAD Editions, and why, when it comes to Doxa, you can't have just one. Plus, what the return of a new Northflag (now one word) heralds for Tudor.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Please leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes 0:30 Tim Jeffreys0:32 TanTan Wang 3:38 Gallet (brand website) 5:28 Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer (Hodinkee) 5:50 Gallet Revives Vintage Fan Favorites With New "Classics" Multichron...

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue Time+Tide
Czapek returns Sep 9, 2026

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue

Czapek celebrated its new flagship at Quai des Bergues 27 by releasing two limited editions during Geneva Watch Days 2026. The Quai des Bergues Midnight in Geneva pairs a 40.5mm steel case with a dark blue aventurine dial and Czapek’s seven-day, manually wound Calibre SXH1. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue places its open-worked double-escapement … Continued

Fratello On Air: The Trends At Geneva Watch Days 2026 Fratello
Sep 9, 2026

Fratello On Air: The Trends At Geneva Watch Days 2026

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re all back home. Balazs has returned from Geneva, and Mike has come in after three weeks of being on the road. In this episode, we review the overarching trends at Geneva Watch Days 2026 along with the top releases. Enjoy the show! This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Trends At Geneva Watch Days 2026 to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces Limited Edition 1815 Up/Down Models in a Smaller Size Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 8, 2026

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces Limited Edition 1815 Up/Down Models in a Smaller Size

A Lange & Söhne has introduced new limited edition versions of their 1815 Up/Down model, one of the brand’s key references for years. The Up/Down is a true enthusiast favorite, prized by Lange collectors for its unique and very German presentation of the power reserve on the dial, located within a circular subdial at the 8:00 position. This style of power reserve indicator is traced back to German pocket watches made in the late 19th century, and I personally have always loved the way it looks on Lange 1815s.  The new references are newsmaking primarily because they are sized down from the brand’s current standard 1815 Up/Down, which measures in at 39mm. The original Up/Down, which is highly collectible today, had a 35.9mm case when it debuted. The case size of these new limited editions, in either white or pink gold, comes in at 37.5mm. That seems to me to be a pretty good compromise for a watch like this, which has always been conceived as a pure dress piece. It remains impressively thin, with a case height of 8.7mm.  The dial is a cool, desaturated blue, with silver subdials for the power reserve and running seconds at 8:00 and 4:00, respectively. The color here would appear to be a bit of a tribute or callout to the original Up/Down, which was available in a similar but not quite identical shade. Blue is a color Lange frequently returns to for special editions and limited releases. Otherwise, the dial is fairly standard 1815 Up/Down fare, which is to say it’s ...

Hands-On: the Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Worn & Wound
Chronoswiss Pulse GMT I love Sep 8, 2026

Hands-On: the Chronoswiss Pulse GMT

I love the experience of a truly unique watch. A watch that, despite doing what the rest of them do, for all intents and purposes, is still unlike anything you’ve strapped to your wrist. This goes beyond the dial to the case, bracelet, time-telling, movement, etc. It doesn’t have to encompass all of those things, but when it does, it reminds you that there is still creativity in the watch world. The Chronoswiss Pulse GMT is one such watch. It’s almost hard to describe the Pulse GMT. It’s something between an integrated-bracelet sports watch and a conceptual neo-futurist travel thingamajiggy. Frankly, had I been told it was a prop from *Gattaca* or another stylized sci-fi film, I might have believed it. Its lines are fluid and complex, except when they aren’t, touching on biomorphic forms while also speaking to the traditional inspirations the brand was founded on. It’s not an easy watch to digest at a glance, presenting conflicting forms, and yet it works. Well, for me it does, but I like weird watches. And regulators. And weird regulators. Starting with the case and bracelet, though integrated, there is a merging of two concepts. Ignoring the bracelet entirely, the central case measures 41.4mm x ~48mm x 13.6mm to the top of the slightly domed sapphire crystal and draws from the brand’s historical DNA, but mutates it substantially. The coined-edge bezel and caseback become notched instead. Less ornate but still textural, it gives more diver than pocket watch....

CIGA Design marks 65th anniversary of first successful Chinese Everest ascent Time+Tide
Sep 7, 2026

CIGA Design marks 65th anniversary of first successful Chinese Everest ascent

CIGA design celebrates the 65th anniversary of China’s first ascent of Mt. Everest via the North Ridge. The watch features an automaton of Liu Lianman’s “human ladder” that allowed his fellow climbers to successfully pass the “Second Step,” and continue onward to a successful summit.  The CIGA design Mechanical Automaton Watch Everest China 65th Anniversary … Continued

TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Review: The Past Meets The Future For Its 50th Anniversary WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Review Sep 4, 2026

TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Review: The Past Meets The Future For Its 50th Anniversary

We take the new TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph hands-on to see how it brings 50 years of racing heritage into the modern era. What We Love Forged carbon makes the watch lightweight Heritage inspired dial design Flyback calibre delivers exceptional performance What We Don’t 50.85mm lug-to-lug can be challenging for smaller wrists with 15.22mm thickness, it remains noticeably substantial Chronograph pushers miss the forged carbon treatment Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 8.7/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 TAG Heuer has introduced the latest chapter in the Monza story just in time for Formula 1’s return to the legendary Italian circuit. This time, however, the Monza is returning to its roots. Created to celebrate the collection’s 50th anniversary, the new Monza Flyback Chronograph brings back the black, white and red identity that made the original 1976 model such an iconic design. It also combines contemporary elements from the 2023 Monza edition, which, in many ways, makes this new Monza a meeting of the timepiece’s past and future. The story of the TAG Heuer Monza first begins in 1971, when Heuer established a significant partnership with the Formula 1 racing team Scuderia Ferrari. This momentous relationship extended well beyond a conventional sponsorship between a watch brand and a racing team, as Heuer supplied Ferrari with its sophisticated Centigraph electronic timing system. This electronic timing system allowed...

Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for a Windup NYC Preview in Billings, Montana Worn & Wound
Accutron Frédérique Constant Sep 3, 2026

Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for a Windup NYC Preview in Billings, Montana

Have you ever wanted the Windup Watch Fair to come to your neck of the wood? Well, if you live in Montana, you’re in luck. Following the success of our recent enthusiast night in Salt Lake, Worn & Wound is teaming up with Citizen Watch America once again, this time heading north to Montana. On Thursday, September 17, we’ll be joining our friends at Riddle’s Jewelry in Billings for a special preview of the offerings they’ll be bringing to Windup NYC next month, and you’re invited. Thursday, September 17, 2026 5:30–7:30 PM MT Riddle’s Jewelry – Billings Shiloh 1002 Shiloh Crossing Blvd. Billings, MT 59102 RSVP NOW! This isn’t your average watch event. We’re bringing along a curated collection of standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina—including watches that are difficult to track down, rarely seen in person, or simply deserve far more wrist time than they usually get. Everything will be out and in the metal, ready for you to pick up, strap on, obsess about, and, if one steals your heart… it’s ready for purchase. A few of the amazing highlights include: Citizen Eco-Drive Photon – Reference BJ6560-53W This limited edition celebrates the 50th anniversary of Eco-Drive technology and features a silver-tone Super Titanium case with a Duratect titanium carbide finish. Limited to just 5,000 pieces worldwide, it’s a standout example of Citizen’s ongoing commitment to light-powered watchmaking. Accutron Spacevi...

Introducing - Czapek Inaugurates its Quai des Bergues 27 Boutique with Special Editions of the Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme Complicité Monochrome
Czapek Inaugurates Sep 3, 2026

Introducing - Czapek Inaugurates its Quai des Bergues 27 Boutique with Special Editions of the Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme Complicité

Coinciding with Geneva Watch Days, Czapek & Cie opens a new flagship boutique at Quai des Bergues 27, a symbolic address for the brand where, in 1839, François Czapek and Polish émigré Antoni Patek laid the foundations of Patek, Czapek & Cie. To mark the occasion, Czapek releases two special editions: a Quai des Bergues […]

Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer Hodinkee
Breitling Universal Genève Sep 3, 2026

Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer

What We Know As we walked around Geneva on day one of Geneva Watch Days, we saw signs being put up for Gallet, and I thought how poetic. On the eve of the brand's relaunch, it's certainly an exciting time for fans of the brand. The parent group, House of Brands—Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet—already relaunched Universal Genève earlier this year and is rounding out 2026 by bringing back Gallet today, with one of the brand's most enduring models, the Flying Officer, in two variations: the Flying Officer Chronograph 40 and the Flying Officer Automatic 40. Today's reintroduced Flying Officer arrives in four dial colors across two versions, all cased in 40mm steel. Case specs are shared across the range: 20mm lug width, a screwed-in steel caseback, cambered sapphire glareproofed on both sides, and 100 meters of water resistance. The chronograph case is 15.02mm thick with a 47.55mm lug-to-lug; the three-hand case is thinner, at 10.67mm, with a 47.49mm lug-to-lug. Both versions share a bezel with a city ring listing 24 destinations, mixing major international airports with more remote locations. The Flying Officer Chronograph 40 comes in light blue or black, both with tone-on-tone subdials, and runs the Gallet 23, an automatic caliber based on the Sellita SW510. It measures 30mm in diameter and 7.9mm thick, runs at 28,800 vph (4Hz), and offers an approximate 62-hour power reserve. It offers quarter-second chronograph timing with a 30-minute counter. The Flying Offi...

Bulgari Taps the Independent Talent of Vianney Halter for Its Next Octo Finissimo Worn & Wound
Bulgari Taps Sep 2, 2026

Bulgari Taps the Independent Talent of Vianney Halter for Its Next Octo Finissimo

Since its inception in 2014, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has propelled the Maison into the realm of serious watchmaking, a rare accomplishment for a brand whose origins are deeply rooted in jewelry making. In just over a decade, the models have gone on to break numerous world records (10 to be exact) and take on countless forms from highly complicated versions to ones that play with a range of materials. Along the way, Bulgari has called upon several artists across various mediums to collaborate on designs, resulting in co-created editions with names like Tadao Ando, Lee Ufan, and Mo Coppoletta. Now, for the first time, Bulgari has looked within the industry to partner with another watchmaker, tapping independent Vianney Halter for the next evolution of the iconic Octo. Although this recent collaboration hails from the expertise of two watchmakers, other artforms still come into play, namely the element of sculpture. Bulgari has long been vocal about the influences of Roman art, architecture, and design in its creations. Similarly, Vianney Halter draws inspiration from other modalities, which informs the three dimensional and industrial design language that brings a sculptural nature to his timepieces. These shared values and visions align in the new Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter. When I think of the aesthetic codes of both Bulgari and Vianney Halter, they are bold, clearly defined, and instantly recognizable. At first glance, reading the headline of the pr...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler Hodinkee
Armin Strom Co-Founders Sep 2, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler

This week on The Business of Watches, a visit with the folks running Armin Strom, a true original in the small but increasingly crowded field of independent watch brands. It takes its name and original inspiration from the eponymous Swiss watchmaker who was best known for his innovative and record-setting skeletonizing techniques on watches and dials.  Childhood friends Serge Michel and Claude Greisler took over the brand in 2006. Michel, who controls the company, came from a family business background (in another field of business), while Greisler was a watchmaker and engineer. Twenty years on, Armin Strom is a true original in Swiss watchmaking, producing unique timepieces pushing the boundaries of contemporary horology from an atelier in Biel / Bienne, where most of the components are produced, decorated and finished for the brand's proprietary, in-house designed movements.  Claude Greisler (left) and Serge Michel, the co-founders of Armin Strom. This week the brand launch a new version of its Dual Time GMT Resonance in a "manufacture blue edition" with a blue mainplate. The watch employs Armin Strom's unique take on the concept of resonance with dual oscillators kept in balance by its proprietary 'resonance clutch.' The story of the development of the brand's take on the concept is a key element in its journey and we explore and unpack that process in-depth in the episode. Currently making about 400 watches a year with a staff of about 55 people, Armin Strom is on...

Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis Hodinkee
Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis

What We Know In honor of the centennial of legendary musician Miles Davis' birth, Breitling has just announced a limited edition collection at Geneva Watch Days. I say collection because it's more than just one watch, if you want it to be. At the core, Breitling has launched a 500-piece limited-edition model, the steel Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, which is inspired by the ref. 806 Mk 5 Navitimer that was worn by the famous jazz musician. If a single steel option isn't enough for you Davis heads out there, Breitling is also producing 50 three-piece sets that offer a trio of executions of the watch, spanning steel, yellow gold, and even platinum with a blue dial.  We can start with the core model, reference AB09501A1B1X1 or AB09501A1B1A1, depending on whether you want a leather strap or the bracelet (you want the bracelet). Measuring 41mm wide (the same as the reference worn by Davis), 13mm thick, and 47.1 mm lug-to-lug, the Navitimer Miles Davis uses a Breitling B09 hand-wound movement that is COSC-certified, ticks at 4 Hz, and employs both a column wheel and a vertical clutch. Water resistance is 30 meters, and this special edition sports both cream-colored lume and Breitling's (very cool) Twin Jet logo.  And then there is the bracelet, a modern interpretation of the Air Racer bracelet that uses a cuff design with large holes. For this execution, Breitling has added hinged links near the clasp to help with comfort. But that's not all; aside from a gorgeous...

Introducing: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Hodinkee
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport What Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport

What We Know Now in its sixth decade as one of the most famous movements in the industry, the El Primero remains at the heart of Zenith's offerings. To kick off Geneva Watch Days, Zenith is doing something slightly different, launching a Chronomaster Sport without a chronograph—the Chronomaster Solo Sport. The watch arrives in four variations: three with ceramic dials and bezels in black, white, and brown, plus a no-date option also in black. All four come in a 40mm stainless steel case with a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel. The dial features hours, minutes, and seconds, with date added on three of the four references. Despite losing the chronograph, there's still a lot going on up top. The words "36,000 VpH" and "high frequency" alone take up two lines of the dial, and the subtle "shark tooth" minute track gives a nod to vintage Zenith references.  The dial itself is ceramic, built around a repeated 45° Z motif meant to evoke the rhythm and vibration of the movement underneath—rendered as a sunray finish on the white version and a polished surface on the black and brown versions. That same pattern carries over to the counterweight on the seconds hand. The El Primero 3620 powers the watch, derived from the El Primero 3600 chronograph movement and operating at 5 Hz, or 36,000 VpH, while retaining the star-shaped rotor. It's equipped with a silicon escapement and a stop-second mechanism for precise time-setting, and it offers a 60-hour power reserve. Also featur...

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm

Girard-Perregaux writes the next chapter in the Laureato’s long and storied history. Launched in 1975, just three years after the Royal Oak and a year before the Nautilus, the Laureato is considered an honorary member of the luxury integrated sports watch genre. The Laureato underwent its fifth evolution in 2016, becoming a contemporary, fully-fledged luxury […]

Introducing: The Oris Social Club Edition II Hodinkee
Oris Social Club Edition II Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The Oris Social Club Edition II

What We Know As part of the brand's varied releases for Geneva Watch Days, Oris has announced the Social Club Edition II, a special creation sold exclusively online in partnership with the Oris Social Club. The group spans some 62 chapters all over the world, and the latest offering to the acolytes is a handsome expression of the Aquis Relief that incorporates a green nylon NATO-style strap.  Measuring in at 43.5mm, the Social Club Edition II builds upon the standard Aquis Relief by complementing the steel bezel design with a frosted silver finish for the dial. Look a bit closer, and you'll see that there is an easter egg for the date, too, as the first-of-the-month position will feature an image of Oris' mascot, the Oris Bear. Flip the watch over, and you'll find a custom caseback showing the Oris factory in Holstein and "OSC | INT" to mark the club's international membership.  The full specs are provided below, but the Oris Social Club Edition II is 13.1mm thick and 51mm lug to lug with 300 meters of water resistance protecting the Oris 733 movement within. The 733 is based on the Sellita SW 200-1 and is an automatic, Swiss-made movement that ticks at 4 Hz and offers a date, which, for this model, is at 6 o'clock.  Perhaps most interesting – or perhaps I just like NATO straps – Oris has elected to fit lug adapters to the Aquis' proprietary lugs to enable the use of a green NATO strap. The Oris Social Club Edition II is not limited and will be available in Septembe...

Introducing: The Bulgari Titanio Chronograph And GMT Hodinkee
Bulgari Titanio Chronograph Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The Bulgari Titanio Chronograph And GMT

What We Know On the quieter side of Bulgari's releases for Geneva Watch Days this year, we have the titanium expression of the brand's expanding range of material-based models that follow elements of the design language of the Diagono. Following the models in aluminum and last year's release of the Bronzo GMT and Chronograph, we now have the Bulgari Titanio, which offers both a dual-time model and an automatic chronograph.  The pair follows the established Bulgari format closely, modifying the recipe only for the use of grade 5 in this case, the bracelet articulation links, and the buckle. The Titanio Chronograph is 41mm wide with a sandblasted and satin-finished case that is 12.35mm thick. The Titanio GMT follows the same format, but with a 40mm case that is 9.7mm thick. Water resistance is 100 meters for both, and both come with a black rubber strap with titanium links and buckle. A titanium bracelet is an available option, but no pricing details are offered.  The bezel, crown, and pushers are rendered in a black DLC finish, and both models feature a matte black dial with grey galvanic treatments on the hands. The Titanio Chronograph is powered by the Bulgari B381 automatic, which is based on the Sellita SW300 with a Dubois-Dépraz module; it is a 4 Hz movement with a date at 4:30, a 50-hour power reserve, and a maximum chronograph measure of 12 hours.  For the Titanio GMT, Bulgari employs the B192 automatic, which is based on the Sellita SW-330 and offers "caller-sty...

Introducing: Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian Hodinkee
Gerald Genta Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian

What We Know Today, at Geneva Watch Days, Gérald Genta has announced the latest version of its Geneva Minute Repeater. This new version of the watch, which was originally released around this time last year, swaps the black Onyx dial of that release for a novel dial in Golden Obsidian. Other details are largely unchanged, continuing the trend of the revived Gérald Genta expanding its lineup with caution and deliberation. As with last year's Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater, the Golden Obsidian uses the 40mm-wide, 9.6mm-thick yellow-gold version of the cushion-shaped Geneva case (as opposed to the 38mm version introduced earlier this year in the time-only models, which you can read about here). The protruding single-lug design, found on a handful of Genta watches from the later stages of his career (including the Credor Locomotive), means this watch wears pretty close to 40mm lug-to-lug. Inside the Geneva Minute Repeater is the in-house GG-002 movement, developed by La Fabrique du Temps. It's a 3 Hz movement with 80 hours of power reserve and an impressively loud minute repeater. It's a nice bit of watchmaking, and — as Mark intimated when he went hands-on with the Onyx-dialed version of this watch last year — it fits nicely into the lineage of Genta-designed minute repeaters. The big talking point with this year's Geneva Minute Repeater is the Golden Obsidian dial. Golden Obsidian — a material I had not encountered before this watch — is a volcanic glass that...

Introducing: The Tudor Northflag Returns With Dual Time Hodinkee
Tudor Northflag Returns Sep 1, 2026

Introducing: The Tudor Northflag Returns With Dual Time

What We Know Tudor's North Flag has always been something of an outlier. It was originally launched in 2015 at Baselworld and was the first Tudor to feature one of the brand's in-house movements. Only ever available in two specs, on a bracelet or on a leather strap, the North Flag (91210N) was discontinued in 2021. Today, the Northflag (now one word) returns, evolving the 2015 offering with a single reference that sports a 24-hour hand for a second time zone.  The new Northflag, ref. 9140G1A0U, uses 316L stainless steel for its 40mm case and integrated bracelet. The case is 12.7mm thick and 48.8mm lug-to-lug. Compared with the 40 x 13.3 x 50mm of the original North Flag, this new model should be more compatible with smaller wrists thanks to its more compact dimensions. The water resistance is 100 meters, and it has a domed sapphire crystal up front and a display caseback.  Inside, and viewable via that display caseback, is Tudor's MT5652-U automatic movement. It's a 4Hz METAS-certified Master Chronometer with a stated accuracy of -0 to +5 seconds/day. For those keeping track, this is the same second time zone-equipped movement found in the Pelagos FXD GMT. Both the date and the GMT function are set via the crown, and adjusting the second time zone is done by jumping the local hour hand to a new time zone (such as when you land at your destination) in standard "flyer" GMT functionality.  Like its predecessor, the second-gen Northflag's dial is black, with minimal text an...

First Look - The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.4-1 in Black Ceramised Titanium Monochrome
Chopard co-president Karl Friedrich Scheufele Sep 1, 2026

First Look - The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.4-1 in Black Ceramised Titanium

Chopard co-president Karl Friedrich Scheufele resurrected the name Ferdinand Berthoud in 2015. An eminent Swiss horologist who emigrated to Paris in 1745 and gained fame for his precision marine chronometers, Ferdinand Berthoud was given a second lease of life in Scheufele’s hands as an elite haute horlogerie brand that perpetuates the founder’s legacy of chronometric […]