Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Why Roger Dubuis Chronographs Are Some Of The Most Underrated Watches Of All Time
I mean, just look at them!
Results for Maen
4,429 articles · 257 videos found · page 133 of 157
Hodinkee
Time+Tide
Quartz, the killer – A history of quartz watches, Part 1
The history of quartz watches is a long and controversial one, with many blaming the technology for destroying the watch industry.The post Quartz, the killer – A history of quartz watches, Part 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph is like a remastered classic on vinyl, played on crystal clear modern speakers and turned up to 11](https://timeandtidewatches.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ap4.jpg)
Time+Tide
The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph is like a remastered classic on vinyl, played on crystal clear modern speakers and turned up to 11
In what we hope will be the first of many watches to be unveiled in these dark times, Audemars Piguet has recently released their latest model. Called the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph, this new piece is actually a reinterpretation of one of the Le Brassus firm’s early 20th-century watches. In no way is this … ContinuedThe post The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph is like a remastered classic on vinyl, played on crystal clear modern speakers and turned up to 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT
The Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT may appeal more to men who want something classic but with more wrist presence than a subtle silhouette. The case and dial are rather nice, but otherwise the watch lacks in the differentiation department.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
11 Ugly Vintage Watches: The 70s Called… and They Want Nothing to Do With Your Watch
Overwhelmed Swiss factory guy 1: “Hold up, why is there a tachymeter scale if half the numbers are gone?” Overwhelmed Swiss factory guy 2: “Because of le quartz, man. Don’t ask questions. Do you want to lose your job?!”
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Maillon de Cartier
Cartier was a maker of fine jewelry long before it became a significant watchmaker in the 20th century when it unveiled the Santos-Dumont in 1904, which was the first wristwatch designed specifically for men. Today it continues to straddle both horology and watchmaking, having just unveiled the latest generation of the Santos-Dumont, and now, the Maillon de Cartier. French for “link”, maillon, is already used for a line of Panthère de Cartier jewelry that is characterized by, well, links. It is an apt description – the rings, bracelets, and necklaces are characterized by the use of tightly interlocking links as a central design motif. This very design language is carried over – with a twist, literally – to the new line of wristwatches, Maillon de Cartier. The new line is defined by a juxtaposition of curves and angular faces – essentially twisted links. The seamlessly integrated bracelet is composed of offset links that echo the shape of the bezel. The case, measuring 16 mm by 17 mm and standing 6.8 mm, is entirely mirror polished and framed by a hexagonal bezel that is integrated into the bracelet, accentuating the slimness of the watch while also emphasizing its sculptural quality. The dial is typical Cartier style: a silvered finish, blued steel sword hands, and stylized Roman numerals. Because of the small size of the dial, the Cartier “secret signature” is not incorporated in “VII” as is tradition. Maillon de Cartier is made up of six references i...
Time+Tide
Bored? Enjoy the power and the passion of Omega Museum Director Petros Protopapas in this incredible video from our vault
There are many talented and passionate people in the watch industry. People whose daily work for their brand goes far beyond a job. Too many to mention. Watches, after all, attract and retain a certain type of person. And if you don’t love watches, to your very core, the daily task of singly focusing on … ContinuedThe post Bored? Enjoy the power and the passion of Omega Museum Director Petros Protopapas in this incredible video from our vault appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Found: Alton Brown Is Auctioning Two Of His Personal Watches For Charity
The pair of chronographs will raise money for Georgia's food service workers.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #169: Watchfast Reflections
The mini watchfast challenge is over, and Kaz & Mike reflect on their learnings in this week’s episode. Plus, there’s a ton of new stuff on the site - including a Nodus review and a few press releases you won’t want to miss.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity
French watchmaker Cyril Brivet-Naudot made his debut two years ago with the Eccentricity, a time-only watch that’s fascinating and impressive on many fronts. Not only is it almost entirely made by hand, the Eccentricity is intriguing in design and mechanics – from the overall architecture to details like the key-winding mechanism and regulator-style time display with a twist, and above all, the proprietary escapement. Just 29 years old, Mr Brivet-Naudot began working on the Eccentricity after graduating from the École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), one of Switzerland’s best technical universities. Prior to that, he earned a diploma in watchmaking from the Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, a small town in eastern France that borders Switzerland. The school has gained a reputation for producing imaginative watchmakers, many pursuing a similar style that’s inspired by 19th century pocket watch movements, including Theo Auffret, a peer of Mr Brivet-Naudot. The result of three years of development, the Eccentricity is very much in the same vein as the watches produced by Mr Brivet-Naudot’s fellow graduates. It artfully combines a 19th century aesthetic sensibility with exotic features, including a novel, free-eccentric escapement, for which the watch was named. And it is built by hand: with the exception of the mainspring, hairspring, jewels and crystals, every component of the watch was made from scratch by Mr Brivet-Naudot, without the aid of CNC machine...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing a new weekly series starring the world’s best microbrands, kicking off with William Wood Watches!
I don’t know how many times I’ve introduced a new segment, column or series on Time+Tide over the last six years. But I’d be prepared to bet that at least half the time, I’ve opened the post about it with these words: “Sorry, this took a long while to get to you. Good things take … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing a new weekly series starring the world’s best microbrands, kicking off with William Wood Watches! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Getting Through The Great Lockdown Of 2020: A Collector’s Guide To Solitude
These are tough times. People around the world are fighting for their lives against the novel coronavirus, and far too many have already lost the battle. However, as GaryG explains, as with many other challenges in life, there is one sure-fire solution to lift the spirits: watches!
Time+Tide
CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Jay-Z Vs. Drake’s watch collection – and the winner is…
Well, the results are in for the inaugural round of Celebrity Watch Death Match, and everything is coming up not just roses for Jay-Z, but “Rose Gold Concepts”. Which the man himself raps about in ‘Summer’ from the Everything Is Love album, a reference to his Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Chronograph in 18KT Rose Gold. Hove smashed Drizzy … ContinuedThe post CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Jay-Z Vs. Drake’s watch collection – and the winner is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Seiko Prospex LX Spring Drive Diver SNR029
Seiko produces a wide – really wide – variety of dive watches. Many are based on historical watches, with several of the high-end models in particular being inspired by the brand’s first 300 m dive watch of 1968. As a result, a good number of Seiko dive watches look pretty similar. When Seiko unveiled the Prospex LX line at Baselworld last year – the range is made up of six sports watches catered for air, land, and sea – the diver’s watch seemed, well, pretty similar to other Seiko dive watches. But the LX was not a typical range of sports watches, because it was designed in collaboration with Ken Okuyama, one of Japan’s most famous car designers – specifically, Mr Okuyama is best known for his work for Ferrari. The Prospex LX Spring Drive Diver SNR029 is a typical Seiko dive watch – it’s functional and solidly engineered, with a notably high quality of construction. But Mr Okuyama’s design adds a surprising degree of refinement to the design, which reimagines the retro style of the classical Seiko Hi-Beat diver of 1968 by sharpening the design and refining the details. Initial thoughts Seiko dive watches are highly regarded for their strong price-performance ratio at every level of the price spectrum. The Prospex LX Spring Drive Diver SNR029 is a mid-range model, more affordable than a Grand Seiko but more upscale than the base-model Prospex diver. In terms of functionality, fit and finish, the SNR029 scores highly. Legibility is excellent, Spring Dr...
Revolution
MB&F; HM No. 10 ‘Bulldog’: Creativity Unleashed
MB&F; delights with a new horological machine that likens man’s relationship with the wristwatch to that with his best friend, his dog.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Hand-Wind
Though Cartier has a huge range of watch case styles, many are iterations from a handful of original designs that were usually created in the early 20th century. Only a handful stick closely to the design of the vintage originals, most notably the Tank Cintree and Crash, and now the new Santos-Dumont XL, newly launched at Watches & Wonders 2020. Originally (re)launched in last year in two sizes – both with quartz movements only – the Santos-Dumont is now available with a hand-wind, mechanical movement in a larger, but not too large, case. The elegant design that channels the spirit of the vintage original remains, with only the dimensions and movement changed. And the new hand-wind Santos Dumont XL is also well priced enough that it would be a value proposition in more ordinary times. Not only is the new model available in steel, which was absent before, the 18k gold version is almost 30% cheaper than the equivalent from the earlier generation. The Santos-Dumont XL in steel And in two-tone steel and 18k pink gold, which is a very 1980s look Since 1904… The watch gets its name from Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian inventor and aviator who spent his adult life in Paris. A minor celebrity in France for exploits in planes and airships, Santos-Dumont was a larger than life character: in the family history recently published by Francesca Cartier Brickell, The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire, Santos-Dumont is described as travelling betw...
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Ref. 5231J World Time: Because (For Both Better And Worse) The World Gets Smaller Every Day
The history of the world time complication is intimately connected to Patek Philippe. Due to its pedigree, this brand is often considered to offer the ultimate in world time watches. And when Patek Philippe introduced the 5231J World Timer at Baselworld in 2019, many applauded the continuation of the tradition since it’s a perennial favorite. Joshua Munchow explains what makes this model so special.
Quill & Pad
All 7 Of The Latest Rolex Models Of 2019, Plus Some Cool Variations (Rolex Photofest!)
The year 2019 was one of subtle improvements in Rolex’s mainstay Oyster Perpetual collection. Elizabeth Doerr highlights the seven main new Rolex models introduced in 2019, plus a few surprise variations.
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – Peter’s Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570, “when I got it there wasn’t a huge amount of demand”
The Explorer II often does the rounds at the top of ‘the most underrated Rolex model’ list, and it’s not difficult to see why. In addition to many of the attractive hallmarks of steel sports Rolex models, it also has just a dash more personality – is it the pop of orange that catches your eye? … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Peter’s Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570, “when I got it there wasn’t a huge amount of demand” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Great ‘Grams: The Fun Edition
This week in Great ‘Grams I wanted to focus on the more lighthearted side of the hobby, and probably the initial reason many of us became interested in horology - it’s fun. It’s fun to learn about a totally new version of a watch you thought you were familiar with, and it’s fun to ooh and … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: The Fun Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont XL Hand-Wound (with Live Photos)
Conceived by Louis Cartier for Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont – who needed a timepiece he could read while flying – the Santos-Dumont wristwatch has the double distinction of being the first wristwatch designed from the ground up for men, as well as being the first-ever pilot’s wristwatch. Now the 116-year old design has just received its latest update with the unveiling of the hand-wound Santos-Dumont XL. [Update March 23, 2020: Read the review with more photos.] Though the Brazilian pilot got his wristwatch in 1904, it took until 1911 for the design to be sold commercially. For most of the century since, the Santos-Dumont has been part of the Cartier line-up in one way or another, often in gold but occasionally in platinum (one outlier was a special edition in titanium with a skeleton movement). The most recent facelift happened in 2005, which saw the unveiling of a version without a bezel. The new Santos-Dumont XL in all three versions Last year, the latest generation of the Santos-Dumont was unveiled, marking a return to the iconic Santos bezel with screws. For the first time ever, the Santos-Dumont was available in steel as well as two-tone steel and gold, along with the traditional all-gold case. However, the new Santos-Dumont didn’t quite receive unanimous acclaim because it was quartz movement. But now Cartier has finally unveiled what was long expected, the mechanical Santos-Dumont XL. Measuring 46.6 by 33.9 mm and just 7.5 mm in height...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Romain Gauthier Logical One Byzantine
The Romain Gauthier Logical One was launched in 2013 to critical acclaim, and clinched the year’s award for Best Men’s Complication at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). While centred on the very old idea of a chain and fusée, the Logical One stood in contrast to contemporary wristwatches with the same complication. Other watchmakers sought, single-mindedly, to miniaturise the chain and fusée – doubtlessly a feat of micro-engineering – but Romain Gauthier took a step forward and developed a truly modern incarnation of the constant-force mechanism that originated in the 15th century. And contrary to well-known makers of the chain and fusée today, most notably A. Lange & Söhne, Romain Gauthier ensured the chain and fusée in the Logical One is entirely visible on the dial. Since its debut, the Logical One has been iterated multiple times, with variations covering the spectrum from traditional to ultra-contemporary. The attractiveness of the many versions vary – some are overdone – while others are a perfect fit for the impressive movement. One that works perfectly is the unique Logical One Byzantine that has the striking combination of a blue enamel dial and movement bridges bridges engraved with a motif inspired by Byzantine art. (Though this specific combination is unique, similar-looking examples have been produced, for instance with blue sub-dials but without engraving.) Case and architecture Due to the complex architecture of the movemen...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Classique 7137 and Classique 7337
Perhaps the quintessential modern Breguet watches, having been in the line-up for decades, the Classique 7137 and Classique 7337 have elegant proportions and classical dials that showcase the exacting art of traditional engine-turning. And they have just been face-lifted, retaining the traditional look while getting sleeker engine-turning and a streamlined moon phase. Though the changes are slight, the watches differ significantly in look and feel from the initial versions. Unusually, the new dial is also offered in dark blue (with a white gold case), historically an uncommon colour for Breguet. The other combination is the conventional rose gold with a silver dial. Both models feature a slim, 39 mm case with straight lugs and a reeded case band. Mechanically, they are identical to the earlier generation versions. The movements of both watches vary in height and calendar complications, but they share the same ultra-thin cal. 502.3 as the base. The Classique 7337 in pink gold with a silver dial Before going on to the details of the two, it’s worth a quick look at their history. The two models are descended from the refs. 3137 and 3337 respectively, both watches designed by the independent watchmaker Daniel Roth when he helped create the modern Breguet identity in the late 1970s. Mr Roth, in turn, was inspired by important, 19th century Breguet pocket watches; he successfully translated Breguet’s glorious past into the modern era. Being small watches by modern standard...
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Become A Speedmaster Master
Loving the Speedmaster to the moon and back.
Time+Tide
Great ‘Grams: The Independent Watchmakers Edition
This week on Great ’Grams, it’s all about independent watchmakers, and taking a look at the many different ways these patrons of watchmaking go about their work. One such independent watchmaker is Franck Muller, a man whose factory is known for producing sveltely curved and complicated watches but was once something of a traditionalist. The … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: The Independent Watchmakers Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Tobacco Dial
Montblanc’s recent line of vintage-inspired models, including last year’s perpetual calendar, now includes the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph, an attractively retro mono-pusher chronograph that’s well-priced – considering the Minerva movement within. First launched in steel with a salmon dial, the chronograph gets a richer colour palette this year with a pink-gold case matched with a tobacco dial for a warm look no doubt inspired by aged watch dials that have faded from black to brown. Despite all the vintage detailing and “tropical” colours, the watch still doesn’t feel overly retro. The case is well suited to the vintage styling, measuring 40 mm wide thanks to the compact MB M13.21 movement. The calibre is nearly 10 mm smaller than the MB M16.29 movement built for pocket watches that Montblanc has relied on more frequently and results in much larger watches. The case is entirely polished, which contrasts against the matte dial executed in several finishes: a dark, matte surface on the periphery, followed by the grained chapter ring with applied pink gold markers, and finally the central portion in a sun ray-brushed finish. In keeping with the vintage look, the dial itself is slightly domed, a subtle detail that is evident in the sloping edges of the recessed counters. The retro style is further enhanced by a domed, “box-type” sapphire crystal. The arrowhead movement But as is always the case with Minerva-powered Montblanc watches, the highlight is ...
Time+Tide
What should you do when a knife-wielding maniac tries to steal your Rolex?
Picture the scene: it’s a dark night and you’re leaving work when suddenly a man in a balaclava accosts you, waving a 12-inch knife in your face. Give me your Rolex or I’ll “f***ing stab” you, he yells. This was the nerve-jangling scene that confronted Mark Ewart last week as he left his business, … ContinuedThe post What should you do when a knife-wielding maniac tries to steal your Rolex? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Join us at our Dive Watch Fundamentals event, at Oscar Hunt Tailors in Melbourne next week
Next Thursday, March 19, at Oscar Hunt Tailors in the Melbourne CBD, we will hold an event called Dive Watch Fundamentals. This is at the request of Oscar Hunt, who, like many, noticed that dive watches are featuring more than ever on men’s wrists in the most formal of places. For example, the Oscars. So, … ContinuedThe post Join us at our Dive Watch Fundamentals event, at Oscar Hunt Tailors in Melbourne next week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Calatrava Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie Ref. 4978/400G: Swirl Into Infatuation
As much as they may glitter, the diamonds are not the most critical thing in a diamond-set watch: the setting is. Creating a diamond-set watch is not at all as easy as many think, but when done right the result can be spectacular – as is the case with the Patek Philippe Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie.
Quill & Pad
New IWC Portugieser Chronographs Now With In-House Automatic Movements
One of IWC’s most emblematic timepieces, the Portugieser chronograph has been a cornerstone of the brand’s collection for many years. The Portugieser, which first appeared back in 1939, has not always been a bestseller. The truth is, IWC failed with three separate launches before the Portugieser finally became a success in the early 1990s. Sabine Zwettler shares a brief history of the Portugieser here and introduces the six new chronograph variations powered by an in-house movement.