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The Grand Seiko SBGD213 roars with hand-set diamonds and blue sapphires Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGD213 roars Mar 27, 2023

The Grand Seiko SBGD213 roars with hand-set diamonds and blue sapphires

The new Grand Seiko SBGD213 is the sequel to last year’s SBGD209 The paw-like shape of the faceted case is inspired by the Grand Seiko lion mascot The case and dial are set with a combined total of 5.62 carats of diamonds and 1.25 carats of blue sapphires, all set by hand Grand Seiko is … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGD213 roars with hand-set diamonds and blue sapphires appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Marqueterie SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Mar 25, 2023

Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Marqueterie

After several consecutive hit collaborations, Louis Erard debuts its first with a wood marquetry dial. Arguably its most ambitious release yet in terms of craftsmanship, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial inlaid with tiny pieces of wood to form an M.C. Escher-like motif. For the dial, the brand tapped Bastien Chevalier, a Swiss artisan who specialises the art of creating designs and patterns out of intricately cut pieces of wood, although other materials like stone, silicon, straw, and even leather can be used for the technique. Initial thoughts In my view, most watchmakers tend to collaborate only as a last resort, when they’ve run out of ideas. What sets Louis Erard apart is its coherent strategy for collaborations. Whether created by industrial designer atelier oï, or a watchmaker like Vianney Halter, its collaboration editions are still recognisable as Louis Erard thanks to the use of the same steel case. And they are uniformly produced in small runs and priced below CHF4,000. The new Excellence Marqueterie continues this successful formula, bringing wood marquetry to the sub-US$10,000 category for the first time. While brands like anOrdain are doing something similar with affordably priced enamel dials that are designed for modern tastes, there’s never been a marquetry dial at this price point. Not only does the dial look good, it is impressively constructed from dozens of hand-made elements that require careful finishing. Despite the more complex dial...

The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model Time+Tide
Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection Mar 24, 2023

The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model

Breitling releases new Premier B01 Chronographs with a slimmer profile Six models, five new dial colors, available in stainless steel and gold The collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of their Premier chronographs If there’s one thing Breitling is synonymous with, it’s their history of innovation with chronographs and chronograph movements. According to Breitling, after decades … ContinuedThe post The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On with the Circula ProTrail “Old Radium” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe but I have Mar 24, 2023

Hands-On with the Circula ProTrail “Old Radium” Limited Edition

Field watches work particularly well as a blank slate. They are rigorously simple by design, a watch made for pure function and to simply get out of the way of your day to day life. An easily legible dial and a compact case are the only true prerequisites. From there, watch brands have a ton of latitude in how they create a field watch that feels unique to them and will please their customers. There are literally hundreds of traditional field watches to choose from, made by just about every brand you can think of, from Hamilton to Patek Philippe, but I have a soft spot for the oddball interpretations that provide a twist on the norm. The Circula ProTrail isn’t exactly avant-garde or anything, but it’s just a few degrees away from “the standard,” giving it a unique contemporary sensibility among a sea (or a field?) of similar watches that tend to cling to the past.  Circula is a German brand with roots dating back to the 1950s, but was effectively relaunched in 2018 by the founder’s grandson, Cornelius Huber. What started with a series of simple German made quartz watches has become a varied collection of precision machined sports watches (for the most part), often in vibrant colors. They put a focus on manufacturing, which is evident in the ProTrail I sampled, and can be easily seen in other watches in their catalog. They’re one of the few brands, for instance, to offer a dive watch in a true super-compressor case.  I had the opportunity to sample the ProTrai...

Petermann Bédat Introduces the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Rado xical Part Mar 23, 2023

Petermann Bédat Introduces the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Founded by watchmakers Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, Petermann Bédat made its debut with the 1967 powered by an elaborately finished movement featuring a deadbeat seconds. Now, the duo has just unveiled their next creation which is a step-up in complexity – the Reference 2941, a mono-pusher split-seconds chronograph. Presented in a 38 mm platinum case and limited to ten pieces, the 2941 follows the design language of the 1967 with a transparent dial and an emphasis on movement finishing. Initial thoughts The 2941 at a glance is a conceptually impressive release that meets the high expectations resulting from its previous release. But perhaps one may ponder over the under-dial execution of the split-seconds mechanism (as opposed to a traditional approach that puts it on the back). Undoubtedly, the finishing remains top notch. The movement sports numerous gracefully formed bridges and a notable emphasis on black-polished components. More broadly, it is uncommon to see a new chronograph movement designed from the ground up, even more so a rattrapante with an instantaneously jumping minute counter. That said, the movement architecture seems paradoxical. Part of the appeal of a finely-finished split-seconds chronograph is the intricate and layered view of the rattrapante mechanism on top of the chronograph seen through a display case back. Thus, Petermann Bedat’s approach of installing the split-seconds under the dial is questionable, particularly considering the n...

Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not) Worn & Wound
Doxa s New Sub 200 Mar 23, 2023

Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not)

When I hear the words “Doxa Sub,” it’s hard for me to not start conjuring images in the ol’ noggin of that wide cushion, pebble-like steel case, the orange accented no-deco table splitting bezel duty with an elapsed time display, and the ever-so whimsical dial. The Sub 300 is a damn near perfect watch, in my humble opinion. But lately (over the course of two years), Doxa has given their flagship dive watch some company within their catalog by way of a couple releases that, at glance, might not resemble the Doxa you and I are used to. The brand with a storied history in the sport of diving and oceanic exploration has been doing some exploring of their own, but into different case design waters. I’m referring to their contemporary divers that use more of a conventional round case shape like the Sub 200 and the Sub 200 C-Graph. Recently, Doxa released the second coming of their Sub 200 chronograph with the Sub 200 C-Graph II. There are notable differences with the newcomer that include several models within the collection now sporting a steel bezel (as a traditional Doxa should have), a new dial finish, and smaller case proportions that amount to a more wearable, everyday diver. When the Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph was introduced in 2020, it reintroduced a chronograph into their expansive regular production diver collection. It was (and still is) a three-register chronograph that attempted to keep some of the vintage charm with its faux-patina markers. In terms of its case...

Paired Up Mondays with the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition Worn & Wound
Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Mar 20, 2023

Paired Up Mondays with the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition

We’re back with another pairing for Paired Up Monday’s. A while back, we partnered with the folks at Zodiac to create the Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition. The creation took their 2:00 o’clock crowned Olympos and gave it a classic military dial with railroad minute track and bold numbers. Overall, the watch was a perfect amalgamation of both brands. We’re back with another pairing for Paired Up Monday’s. A while back, we partnered with the folks at Zodiac to create the Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition. The creation took their 2:00 o’clock crowned Olympos and gave it a classic military dial with railroad minute track and bold numbers. Overall, the watch was a perfect amalgamation of both brands. The post Paired Up Mondays with the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than ever Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH II Mar 20, 2023

INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than ever

The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II brings the case size down from 45mm to 42mm. This is the first time DOXA’s famous dial colours have been given a sunburst finish. It’s a fantastic option for a gender-neutral diving chronograph. When DOXA dropped their first non-reissue chronograph back in late 2020, it was one of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector Mar 18, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector

The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector brings attention to negative space in a refreshing way. The new anthracite dial is inspired by the clear and dark skies of Antarctica. The use of titanium means the whole watch weighs only 95g. Reviving an extinct watch brand can often lead to the creative trap of rehashing vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Nathan Schultz Worn & Wound
Oris TT1 Day Date reference Mar 10, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Nathan Schultz

Editor’s note: This week’s Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition, we welcome reader Nathan Schultz and his trio of unusual, unexpected, but entirely awesome watches.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. As watch enthusiasts, we have a penchant for forming opinions. We talk about what belongs on a dial, and where it should go. We discuss case dimensions, say “sweet spot” regularly, and debate if the Black Bay Pro is too thick. With time, forming an opinion about every aspect of a watch is inevitable. This opinion making frenzy is one of my favorite things about the hobby. When I have down time, I browse watches online. Do I buy them? Usually not, but it’s fun to dream. Through all this browsing and fantasizing, I’ve learned something unexpected about myself: I’m a lugs guy. My core lug opinion: the weirder the better. Oris TT1 Day Date reference 7518 – ~$1,000 It started with the Oris TT1 Day Date reference 7518. I did a double take the first time I saw this one. The lugs looked like an afterthought on a child’s art class pottery project. As if Oris spent so much time perfecting the big bubbly case, they forgot about the lugs until the last day, and just grabbed four spares from the lug bin.  The individual lug oddities on the 7518 seem nonsensical. Yet, combined, they just work. The case on this reference is beautifully rounded. It’s big and has a substantial pr...

Everything you need to know about watch finishing Time+Tide
Mar 9, 2023

Everything you need to know about watch finishing

Looking for a singular resource on all the watch finishing techniques you should ever be familiar with? Look no further, as we try to list every polishing, brushing and dial-creating process we knew of and could come across. Ctrl+F away, dear reader. Anglage Anglage, bevelling or chamfering, describes a movement finishing technique in which the … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about watch finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Prospex 1970 Diver’s “Naomi Uemura” SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Prospex 1970 Diver’s “Naomi Uemura”

Nearly fifty years since Japanese explorer Naomi Uemura (1941-1984) scaled several of the world’s tallest mountains – and crossed Greenland on a dog sledge with a Seiko on his wrist – Seiko introduces the Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation “The Naomi Uemura Limited Edition” (SLA069). Inspired by the ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” that accompanied Uemura on his solo dog sledge run from Greenland to Alaska in 1976, the SLA069 has a mountain-motif dial and blue coating on the bezel and crown. Initial thoughts This limited edition makes sense philosophically since it’s a Japanese watch that pays tribute to a Japanese explorer who wore something similar on his expeditions. The design is obviously based on the ref. 6105, a model commonly referred to as “Captain Willard” by enthusiasts after the lead character who wore one in Apocalypse Now. Seiko has done several ref. 6105 remakes in the recent past, including another Uemura edition, but the SLA069 has details that make it distinctive, like the textured dial and blue access on the case. As a limited edition, the SLA069 is slightly priced higher than regular production “Captain Willard” divers, but not very much more, making it an appealing proposition for someone who wants a retro diver with a few modern details. Willard style Uemura was a legendary explorer known for feats of mountaineering and exploration before disappearing in 1984 while descending Mount Denali after reaching the summit. B...

The Jacob & Co. Casino Roulette Tourbillon is every gambler’s dream – or worst enabler Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Mar 4, 2023

The Jacob & Co. Casino Roulette Tourbillon is every gambler’s dream – or worst enabler

Jacob & Co. dials back their outsized aesthetic for a surprisingly restrained new Casino model Yes, there’s an actual functioning roulette wheel built into the dial The flying tourbillon is displayed on the caseback, so as not to interrupt the clean lines of the dial Jacob & Co. have long been pushing the horological envelope. … ContinuedThe post The Jacob & Co. Casino Roulette Tourbillon is every gambler’s dream – or worst enabler appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nivada Grenchen Gives Us the Best of All Worlds with Chronoking Meca-Quartz Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Gives Us Mar 2, 2023

Nivada Grenchen Gives Us the Best of All Worlds with Chronoking Meca-Quartz

Nivada Grenchen’s Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver represents their interpretation of a multi-functional steel sports chronograph teeming with vintage attributes. The collection’s signature – a two subdial display, tachymeter scale integrated into the outer dial, and a rotating bezel that subtly incorporates a 12 hour display giving the already highly capable chronograph the ability to track another timezone. The vintage aesthetic doesn’t just harken back to the designs of your classic steel sport of watch of the 60’s and 70’s, it actually pulls from the very same design cues of the original Nivada Grenchen chronographs. Nivada’s current Chronoking Manual in particular retains the collection’s design language, but doubles down on the age-old appearance with its chocolate-toned subdials and yellow markers. Topping it all off, the Chronoking encases a Sellita SW510 manual movement in a tidy 38mm case. These are all attractive features and the norm within the Chronoking, as well as the rest of the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver collection. The only caveat here is that their chronographs are positioned within a crowded price tier filled with brands offering something relatively similar in design and function. However recently, Nivada Grenchen released a very enticing iteration of their Chronoking in the Chronoking Meca-Quartz. Albeit sold out, the Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Meca-Quartz includes all the charming traits and functionality at an approachable $479. Vi...

INTRODUCING: The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Mar 2, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT

The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT finally acknowledges travel as part of a luxury lifestyle. The latest Riviera wave dial is stunning in either silver or blue. It’s powered by an ETA 2893-2 base movement. The Baume & Mercier Riviera has always been a lifestyle compliment, ever since its release in 1973. When the luxury … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tissot Debuts PRX “Ice Blue” Powermatic and “Blue Panda” Chronograph SJX Watches
Tissot Debuts PRX “Ice Blue” Mar 2, 2023

Tissot Debuts PRX “Ice Blue” Powermatic and “Blue Panda” Chronograph

Since its 2020 launch, the PRX has been a crowd favourite for making the currently-fashionable integrated-bracelet aesthetic affordable. Now Tissot has announced new additions to the collection: first the base-model PRX Powermatic 80 with an “ice blue” dial, and also the PRX Chronograph with a blue “panda” dial. Initial thoughts The commercial success of the PRX made additional variants inevitable. Fortunately, the new additions are crowd pleasers. The colourways are familiar so neither is novel but both give enthusiasts what they want. Save for the dials, both models are intrinsically identical to their predecessors. The prices remain the same, leaving them competitively priced and strong value.  The shade of light blue chosen for the Powermatic 80 caters in part to the ongoing craze for robin egg blue and also brings to mind the colour of the Rolex Daytona and Rolex Day-Date in platinum. For me, this is a solid update to the model that will undoubtedly be a strong seller. Also, the Powermatic 80 now has the option of a rubber strap as an alternative to the steel bracelet (but the strap has to be purchased separately). This is the perfect solution for someone who wants a strap without seeking an aftermarket offering. As for the chronograph, the blue “panda” dial works well. The blue accents provide subtle contrast with the vertically-brushed silver dial, while being more modern than the original “panda” model that had gold hands and markers. I still wis...

Introducing: The Omega Globemaster Hodinkee
Omega Mar 1, 2023

Introducing: The Omega Globemaster

What is the Omega Globemaster? That's a good question, because it's not a name one might be familiar with like the releases from Omega in years past. It does, technically, belong to the Omega Constellation family, though little is being done to tie the two together beyond the historical nod in the form of a pie-pan dial. But what the Globemaster does have is what Omega is claims to be its most advanced mechanical movement, ever.

[VIDEO] Worn & Wound Reacts: The Titanium and Goldbronze Sinn T50 Worn & Wound
Sinn T50 Last week Sinn Feb 28, 2023

[VIDEO] Worn & Wound Reacts: The Titanium and Goldbronze Sinn T50

Last week, Sinn dropped their new releases for 2023, taking us by surprise with a new titanium clad T50 diver, and a new material called Goldbronze. As long time Sinn enthusiasts, Blake and Zach took the time to offer their reactions to the new release, and compare the new dial design to that of the U50, a with which the T50 shares the same platform. We find a lot to love here, along with a few details that don’t hit quite as hard as we’d like. All things considered, we’re definitely here for more titanium Sinn divers, and this is the most Sinn approach possible to using bronze. You can find more of our Sinn coverage of the new releases right here, and you can read some of our favorite our Sinn reviews right here. Let us know your thoughts on this new release from Sinn in the comments below or on YouTube, and don’t forget to subscribe while you’re there. The post [VIDEO] Worn & Wound Reacts: The Titanium and Goldbronze Sinn T50 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Circula Introduces a GMT into their AquaSport Diver Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 28, 2023

Circula Introduces a GMT into their AquaSport Diver Collection

The formula for Circula’s AquaSport dive watch is fairly simple. It’s a proper 40mm diver that keeps dial furniture to a minimum and blends in a mix of color to keep their watches looking lively, and less mundane like your traditional black dial dive watch. It’s just enough to keep the AquaSport fun and refreshing, without straying too far away from Circula’s main mission – to produce high-quality, German made (Pforzheim to be exact) watches that harken back to past designs. Circula also takes pride in listening to their customers and the entire watch community as a whole, taking suggestions and then applying them accordingly to future projects. Whether there was an increasing demand for a GMT model from the community, or it was Circula’s intention to turn their AquaSport diver into an exceptional travel companion, we’ve got a brand new AquaSport GMT in two different flavors. The Circula AquaSport comes in two different dial variations: Anthracite and Blue. The AquaSport GMT Blue stays in line with what we’ve seen within the AquaSport collection. The dial has a cyan tone amplified by a sunburst effect paired with orange accented hour markers, seconds hand, and trim around the crown. A sky blue AM bezel display offsets the color matched PM display. The AquaSport GMT Anthracite keeps things a bit more reserved. The bezel remains a uniform matte gray color. Like the sunburst effect on the anthracite gray dial, the faded yellow and light blue accents on the dia...

The Sinn T50 debuts new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy Time+Tide
Omega s bronze gold Feb 28, 2023

The Sinn T50 debuts new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy

New T50 watches with new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy comprised of 12.5% solid gold (Omega’s bronze gold is 37.5% for comparison) Standard-production models use it strictly for the bezel, limited edition with decorative grinding dial has Goldbronze bezel and case 41mm x 12.3mm x 47mm dimensions, 500m depth rating, SW 300-1 movement. German manufacturer Sinn … ContinuedThe post The Sinn T50 debuts new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite Time+Tide
Feb 27, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite

Hanhart’s Pioneer One range is getting even more modern with a black PVD case The almost-iridescent blue dial matches the suede leather strap The dimensions are still large like a traditional flieger at 42mm Heritage can get you far in the watch world, but a brand can’t rest on its laurels forever. The Pioneer 417 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Return To Form: Seiko Introduces an Ensemble of 36mm Field Watches with New Addition to 5 Sports Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Feb 24, 2023

Return To Form: Seiko Introduces an Ensemble of 36mm Field Watches with New Addition to 5 Sports Collection

Given the endless amount of watches Seiko offers throughout their various collections and sub-collections, there’s a sure-fire chance that there’s a Seiko for you. But on the rare occasion there isn’t a Seiko that checks all the boxes, then all I can say is, just give it some time, because Seiko has a knack for giving us what we want if we’re patient enough. Whether it’s a different dial color for a particular reference, a change in date window placement (or window shape), or an affordable (Dive) GMT, Seiko has pretty much answered the bell, making the exact watch we’ve described thoroughly in the Instagram comments of a watch that jussssst missed the mark. The newly announced Seiko 5 Sports Mid-Field Collection follows this exact theme. The current line of field watches within the Seiko 5 Sports catalog include a wide variety of dial colors and variations. However as currently presented, every model within that range comes with a stainless steel case that hovers a touch north of 39mm in width. That’s not a slight to this particular model by any means. It’s a simple, straightforward field watch that has a retail sticker that no one can really argue with. I currently own our Worn & Wound 10th year anniversary limited edition with Seiko that uses this exact case and dial platform. My only nit that I have to pick with the watch is that I wish it came in a more compact package. And then yet again, Seiko answered the call, as if they had been reading my mind thi...

Watch Jewels: What Do They Do and Why Do They Matter? Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 24, 2023

Watch Jewels: What Do They Do and Why Do They Matter?

Those who are very new to appreciating watches may be surprised, and a bit confused, upon reading about a watch that boasts “21 jewels” and afterward looking it over and finding no diamonds or emeralds or any other precious stones on its dial or case. Many watches do, in fact, offer such adornments, but those are not what’s being referred to on a watch’s spec sheet in the “jewels” column; to clarify, “jewels” in horological parlance are not shorthand for “jewelry.” A watch’s jewels are, in fact, not even really intended to be seen and admired. Like the screws and gears and tiny wheels inside a watch’s movement, they are there to do a job, to play a vital and functional role in the smooth operation of a watch’s timekeeping.  So what are jewels in a watch movement, anyway, and what are they for? And do watchmakers really use valuable, precious gems as workhorse components inside these micromechanical engines? On the latter question, well, yes and no. As to the former question, read on.  The movement in a mechanical watch is a machine with lots of moving metal parts that tend to rub and grind against one another, creating friction that can wear down these components, adversely affecting the performance of the watch and ultimately shortening its functional life. The challenge in the early days of watchmaking was finding a substance harder than these metal parts to place at the vital pivot points to reduce metal-on-metal wear and tear. The answer pr...