Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Servicing An Omega Speedmaster
Inside the 1861, and how a watchmaker keeps it running.
43,579 articles · 273 videos found · page 1337 of 1462
Hodinkee
Inside the 1861, and how a watchmaker keeps it running.
WatchAdvice
The Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a timepiece clouded in such mystery that its existence was all but forgotten, until recently. The story behind this timepiece goes back to 1970, where after the iconic El Primero movement was produced by Zenith, the manufacture also produced a prototype for a manual winding chronograph. This chronograph model was housed in a blackened steel case, which was quite rare during the ’70s. The manufacture produced only a handful of these concepts, with the watch never making it into full production. Soon after, the quartz crisis hit, which forced Zenith’s El Primero savior Charles Vermont to store all the plans and designs for mechanical watches including El Primero designs in a secret walled off attic in the manufacture. Just imagine though, if this beautiful all-black timepiece was never to be uncovered by the manufacture! Luckily this wasn’t the case, as in 2019 when Zenith began celebrating their 50th anniversary of the El Primero Chronograph caliber, the team at the manufacture decided to go through all the plans, designs, and parts that they found in the secret attic. Among the numerous items hidden away, was a box that contained the original prototype of this special black chronograph model. A model that hasn’t been seen by anyone since the early 1970s. The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” project is a remake of the original 1970 model. Zenith, however, decided that instead of faithfully reproducing a replica of...
Time+Tide
The gift-giving season has arrived, with Christmas and other holidays just around the corner. Odds are if you’re reading this article (or any content on Time+Tide for that matter) that you, or someone you know, have a sweet spot for watch-related goodies. Fortunately, you don’t have to wait till the last minute or spend a … ContinuedThe post Holiday horology: 5 Christmas accessories to give any watch lover (or just buy for yourself) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An iconic auto-racing chronograph of the 1970s, the Monaco ref. 1133 was nicknamed the “Steve McQueen” after the actor wore one in the 1971 film Le Mans. And now one of the actual examples worn by McQueen in the film has just become the most expensive Heuer ever sold, achieving US$2.21m with fees at Phillips’ New York auction. There were several Monacos on hand for the production of Le Mans, with McQueen retaining two after filming wrapped. The record-setting watch in question is one of the two that McQueen gifted to Haig Alltounian, both the chief mechanic for the film as well as the actor’s personal mechanic. McQueen (left) and Haig Alltounian (far right) during the filming of Le Mans Mr Alltounian received the watch – engraved with “To Haig Le Mans 1970” on the back – just after filming for Le Mans concluded. Mr Alltounian himself consigned the watch to Phillips for its recent New York watch auction, making its provenance impeccable. The bidding opened at US$150,000, progressing steadily until the air thinned at the half-million dollar mark – which leads to the conclusion that the majority of bidders had a similar limit in mind. Then only three phone bidders were left. The three-way tussle ended with a US$1.8m hammer price – with London-based James Marks of Phillips winning the lot for his client. The result was US$2.2m inclusive of fees, an all-time record for any Heuer watch. It’s also a convenient feather in the cap for TAG Heuer, which is ...
Hodinkee
Newman's other Daytona didn't bring the fireworks of three years ago, but it still put on a show at "Racing Pulse."
Hodinkee
The watch gifted to the film's mechanic becomes the most expensive Heuer ever.
Quill & Pad
A two-and-a-half-minute trailer was recently released for the forthcoming documentary 'Keeper of Time.' The film primarily follows four independent watchmakers: Maximilian Büsser (MB&F;), François-Paul Journe (F.P. Journe), Philippe Dufour, and Roger Smith. It also features interviews by scholars in physics, physiology, and philosophy as well as primarily New York City-based watch industry observers, weaving related topics about time into its fabric.
Quill & Pad
The hashtag #fliegerfriday is dedicated to the genre of flieger, or pilot’s, watches posted on social media on Fridays. Tutima, which has a long history in pilot's watches, asked Bhanu Chopra for some advice on developing a special-edition #fliegerfriday chronograph and together they came up with the Tutima Flieger Friday Chronograph Limited Edition. Here is its compelling story.
Revolution
Grand Seiko has a reputation as the maker of perfectly finished watches, where precision and performance of the highest calibre are valued above everything. And when it comes to their dive watches, the same depth is there…
SJX Watches
Since its launch in 2016, the Overseas line has been steadily filled out with a variety of models, but the most compelling is probably the perpetual calendar. First unveiled with a solid dial, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar is a large but markedly thin watch that sits strikingly flat on the wrist. With elegant proportions matched by thoughtful design – witness the micro-adjustment clasp for the bracelet – the Overseas perpetual calendar also boasts a high level of finishing for both the case and movement, which happens to be the cal. 1120 descended from the venerable Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920. This year Vacheron Constantin went one better with the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, which is essentially the same thing but with a skilfully open-worked movement. Boasting a tremendous appeal – matched by a very high price – the new perpetual calendar is amongst the best in luxury-sports watches. Admitted it is more luxury than sports, but it is done extremely well. Initial thoughts In its original guise, the Overseas perpetual is already appealing in both style and substance. It sits wide and flat on the wrist, looking elegant in profile while being refined in its case details – all of the polished elements catch the light nicely. But it was costly – not more expensive than other comparable luxury-sports perpetual calendars – but a lot of money still. The skeleton version of the watch is everything the original was, but more so. Just as elegantly ...
Time+Tide
We are beyond excited to introduce the Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 Limited Edition of 50 pieces which is available here and the GMT2, a Limited Production 2021 model that will only be available for 12 months. These are the first two watches ever released by Time+Tide, and they arrive to mark a year when … ContinuedThe post After 6 years of dreaming about it, we’ve finally released our first watches, and we’ve partnered with George Bamford appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
How solving a design problem for 10% of us benefits the other 90%.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series, ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 10 – Nick English, co-founder of Bremont Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Being a superstar athlete clearly has its perks. Sure, there is glory within achievements and success found in their respective sport, but if you become such an anchoring presence to a team, such as NBA player James Harden, it also means you receive quite the hefty payday. Harden, who has reportedly amassed more than $224,000,000 … ContinuedThe post Rapper Lil Baby gets big 26th birthday present from James Harden, including a Richard Mille and a hunnit grand (with pastries) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Just announced as an exclusive for Seiko’s longtime distributor in several Asian countries, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT “Champagne Diamond” SBGE267G is a variation on Grand Seiko’s longstanding Spring Drive GMT sports watch with its characteristic sapphire-covered bezel and sloping case flanks. Dressed in richer colours than the black or blue of the typical Grand Seiko sports watch, the SBGE267G has a dial rendered in metallic brown that’s matched with yellow gold-plated hands and indices. Executed in steel, the SBGE267G is powered by the 9R66 Spring Drive movement that has a second time zone function. And it’s an edition of 140 pieces meant for five countries, making it a fairly small run relative to other recent Grand Seiko limited editions. Initial thoughts Over the last couple of years, Grand Seiko has rolled out a variety of limited editions in a diversity of dial colours, but the SBGE267G still manages to be be different. Its look is distinctly more luxe than the standard Spring Drive GMT – the chestnut brown employed for the dial is unusual for Grand Seiko and striking, particularly combined with the gilt hands and markers. The brushed metallic dial surface catches the light nicely In the usual Grand Seiko fashion, the quality of the watch is excellent, with the dial and hands being especially outstanding for a watch of this price. Fabricated with a diamond-tipped tool, the hour markers and hands all have razor-sharp edges and near-mirrored su...
Quill & Pad
Here Ken Gargett takes a look at a couple of the very best rosés made anywhere on the planet. Both are from Provence, more specifically Ott is from Côtes de Provence and Pibarnon from Bandol. Did you know that rosé makes for more than half of Provence’s wine production?
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series, ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 8 – David Gandy, male supermodel and secret watch nerd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Nicola Andreatta and Gregory Bruttin, the dynamic duo behind today’s Roger Dubuis, lead us fearlessly down the path of watchmaking for the future, and share the vision they have for hyper horology.
WatchAdvice
Chronoswiss is a Lucern based Swiss watchmaking company that was founded in 1983. Created during a time where quartz timepieces were the popular choice for wristwear, Gerd-Rüdiger Lang founded Chronoswiss, as he believed in the timeless fascination of mechanical timepieces. Chronoswiss was a brand made for visionaries, pioneers, and nonconformists. They were the first brand to miniaturize the regulator into a wristwatch, and then build a whole collection of watches around this design. Chronoswiss is also a specialist when it comes to skeletonised watches. They have been practicing this craft in watchmaking for more than 30 years, while also giving the skeletonised timepieces a modern twist. For Chronoswiss, the process of skeletonising a watch isn’t just simply removing pieces of the dial to see the movement underneath. For this Swiss brand, skeletonisation of a watch is to “highlight the key points such as open-gear trains to cutting away as much as possible to create extremely see-through timepieces”. The Opus Chronograph is a watch born from Chronoswiss’s expertise in creating aesthetic skeleton timepieces. Introduced in 1995, the Opus Chronograph advanced the skeletonising chapter at Chronoswiss. The latest 2020 version of the Opus Chronograph has been thoroughly updated. This exceptionally complex 300-part masterpiece has been modernised with new geometric features that fit better on the wrist while also making it more comfortable for everyday wear. The...
Quill & Pad
The Astronomic Souveraine with minute repeater at its core is an astronomical grand complication, and like most F.P. Journe pieces it is incredibly well suited to any wrist and supremely easy to use because all the functions are set and adjusted by the crown. But is that the only reason Joshua Munchow loves it?
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series, ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 6 – James Yates, model and mental health advocate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We take a close look at the rare Roger Dubuis Symphatie Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Bi-retrograde in rose gold with a magnificent black dial.
Time+Tide
If you aren’t across Seiko modding, that’s fair enough. While popular in some circles of the watch community, it certainly isn’t a mainstream practice, despite the level of fervour of its disciples. Earlier in the year we took a look at a few pretty interesting mods that had been made, including with painted dials, ceramic … ContinuedThe post 7 crazy creative Seiko mods that don’t look like *ahem* Swiss steel sport watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Like many, GaryG is a sucker for blue-dialed watches. But he thinks that the Moser Funky Blue Streamliner Flyback Chronograph has a lot more going for it than just its eye-catching dial. Check out his comments and photos and decide for yourself.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: ‘11 Days of Londoners’ continues with a UK-based microbrand you likely know and love, none other than Farer Watches co-founder Stu Finlayson. The past 10 years has seen a host of brilliant British brands pop up and Farer is certainly one of the most exciting. The spirit of adventure and exploring is at … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 5 – Stu Finlayson, Founder of Farer Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Cometh the crisis, cometh the magazine. Against all odds, we bring you Issue #3 of our Magazine, in glorious dusky pink, buy Time and Tide Watches’ NOW Magazine here. And it’s here to cheer you from whatever life will continue to throw at you in the most challenging of years – from the “million pound … ContinuedThe post Issue #3 of NOW Magazine is now available: F-U COVID, we did one just to spite you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Previously, in Part I of this series, we analysed and reviewed over 40 watch movements in terms of their potential chronometric performance – via the Horological Density Factor (HDF), which encompasses balance power and power reserve against the size of the movement – and debated the various trade-offs that had been made in order to achieve specific technical or aesthetic characteristics. Many readers then asked how more commonly known and accessible movements compare. To answer that we needed more data from the industry. Fortunately, Swiss movement makers Valjoux, Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, Unitas, as well as their parent company Ebauches SA – now all part of ETA – once published beautifully comprehensive, detailed data sheets that included balance wheel inertia values. Armed with this data, we have been able to analyse and plot a further 25 movements alongside the previous group (with the disclaimer that it might not be fully up to date since the data sheets date from before the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s) to give a total of 68 to allow further investigation and review. The analysis Several popular movements have been added: the workhorse ETA 2824-1 and -2, the ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph, the large diameter ETA Unitas 6497-1 and -2, and the ETA Peseux 7001. We also added, among others, the integrated chronograph cal. 4130 in the Rolex Daytona, and the modular chronograph versions of both the ETA 2892 (known as the ETA 2894) as well as...
Quill & Pad
The RM 72-01 is a first for Richard Mille – a relaxed, playful flyback chronograph that, while as interesting and eye-catching as its siblings, is quite a different mechanical beast from the others thanks to its in-house chronograph movement with a variety of new elements and even a world-first in watchmaking.
Deployant
The latest co-creation between TAG Heuer and Bamford Watch Department, the world’s ultimate hub for personalised luxury, is an exclusive Aquaracer timepiece equipped with the Calibre 5 Automatic movement and limited to 1,500 pieces. Press release information with editorial commentary in italics. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Reference WAY208F.BF0638 is available now. Retail S$5,500Read More
Time+Tide
Bamford and Nike? You read that right. It’s no secret that I am a big fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. To me it’s a quietly spoken grail watch in that hotly contested category of integrated bracelet sports watches. Its slim case design and smooth ergonomic bracelet make this an easy collection favourite. So much so … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: White-hot drops this week from Bamford and Nike create monochromatic magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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