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Fratello On Air: The Modern Watches Destined To Become Classics Fratello
Sep 1, 2026

Fratello On Air: The Modern Watches Destined To Become Classics

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re both back in our respective homes before traveling again. Our show is about modern watches destined to become classics. Now, before you accuse us of focusing on money, erase those thoughts! We don’t care about value. No, we are talking about watches that […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Modern Watches Destined To Become Classics to read the full article.

Dispatch: Climbing High With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Aug 31, 2026

Dispatch: Climbing High With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points

Somewhere high over the cinematically unforgiving terrain of southern Utah, I cling awkwardly to a metal rung neatly stapled into a slab of near-vertical Navajo sandstone. Using a free hand, I adjust a pair of sliding metal tethers to enable my climb. These are the lifelines that will hopefully keep me alive should my grip or footing fail. Being no fan of heights, I wonder how much longer this will last as I notice the route of rungs extending straight up and out of sight along the cutting topography of the ridgeline. Instinctively, I glance at my wrist to mark the time. I'm met with yet another novel, but very real, concern – I'm wearing someone else's $40,000 watch. I'm in Canyon Point, Utah, not far from the northern border of Arizona, for an event held at Amangiri, one of the finest hotels in the world. The exclusive event celebrates Vacheron Constantin's latest entry into its sportiest category: the Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points. But I am an interloper among the assembled guests, many of whom are among the brand's most notable North American collectors. While I'm no stranger to the glitz, glamour, and all-you-can-eat shrimp of watch industry press events, this is something altogether different; this is a client event. While your average press trip is often quite nice, our usual hands-on time with a given new model is often limited to an hour or so in a boardroom in some Geneva-based HQ or in a meeting space at a brand's manufacture in Le Locle or elsewhere in S...

Atelier Wen and Massena LAB Collaborate on a Limited Edition Inflection Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Collaborate Aug 31, 2026

Atelier Wen and Massena LAB Collaborate on a Limited Edition Inflection

When it comes to watchmaking, it’s usually a marathon not a sprint. Bringing a model to life is a lesson in patience, and, well, timing. A tale we often hear about how a watch came to be starts with a chance meeting, some curiosity or perhaps even instant synergy, and then intention and hard work. This echoes the origin story of the new Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò, the brainchild of William Massena, founder of Massena LAB, along with Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the co-founders of Atelier Wen. The collaboration takes the name “Shuò,” from the Chinese character 烁, which can be translated as “sparkling,” “glittering,” or “radiant.” This aptly describes the shimmering and reflective qualities of hand tremblage – the rare and demanding decorative craft that graces the dial. For the new collaboration, the technique has been entirely executed by hand engraving specialist Coralie Mercier on behalf of GT Cadrans. To achieve the beautiful finish, Mercier pushes a graver across the 18-karat gold surface of the dial while continuously oscillating it. This meticulous work slowly develops a texture thanks to thousands of tiny irregular facets. The tremblage portion of the main dial plate lays the foundation with a radially brushed sector of either white gold or rose gold creating a border. The smooth contrast of this portion around the periphery houses the hour markers. Here, the brands offer a playful twist on the California dial layout w...

Go Big or Go Home: Fears Adds Its First High Complication with a QP Worn & Wound
Fears Adds Aug 28, 2026

Go Big or Go Home: Fears Adds Its First High Complication with a QP

Fears has decided to add its first high complication by tackling one of the most complex of them all: the perpetual calendar. Charting new territory seems like just the right way to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary since its renaissance in 2016. The introduction of a QP to the flagship Brunswick line isn’t the only headline. The collection gets a new case architecture with wide polished bevels making it the thinnest Brunswick watch in the line at 9.4mm. The Brunswick has been a defining collection for Fears since its introduction in 2017, marking the first mechanical line of the modern era. Yet, the collection is also an homage to the brand’s past with a vintage-inspired cushion shape case, onion crown, and signature sector dial. The design mixes these aesthetics with distinct typography and numerals derived from a piece from the brand’s archives. It only feels fitting that this collection would serve as the foundation for Fears’ first high complication in 180 years.Even with the addition of day, date, month, year, and leap year indications that make up a perpetual calendar, Fears has managed to keep the Brunswick QP compact at just 39mm. When it comes to high complications, the composition of the movement is usually the main limiting factor when it comes to sizing. Here, we can thank the Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module, atop a hand-finished Sellita SW300 as its base movement. This caliber has been modified specifically for this watch, giving it its...

Introducing: The AnOrdain Model 1 Porcelain (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Anordain Model 1 Porcelain Live Aug 27, 2026

Introducing: The AnOrdain Model 1 Porcelain (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Glaswegian brand AnOrdain, known for its handcrafted grand feu enamel dials, introduces the second entry in its porcelain dial series with the Model 1 Porcelain. Counterintuitively, it follows last year's Model 2 Porcelain, which marked the brand's first watch with a porcelain dial. While the dials are still produced by hand in AnOrdain's Glasgow workshop, using a traditional porcelain-making process (no zirconium ceramic sheets or injection-molded clay slurry), the firing of the clay and vitreous glaze at high heat for these porcelain dials can be done at a much larger scale. AnOrdain provides a comparison here of production rates—50 vitreous enamel dials per month across seven enamellers, while one ceramic specialist can produce 30-40 porcelain dials. And though it may be easy to assume porcelain dials are more forgiving and capable of higher yields, the brand notes that the final dials come from an approximate total of 300 produced, meaning there's still a mighty high rejection rate associated with porcelain dialmaking. The Model 1 Porcelain starts with, well, the brand's Model 1 case design in stainless steel. It is a reasonably compact watch, with a diameter of 38mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm, and a thickness of 11mm. The Model 1 silhouette features a short lug design with broad outer polished faceting, making the lugs feel even slimmer on the wrist. Polishing is also found on the smooth, rounded bezel, while the midcase and screwed-in cas...

The new 100-piece Tiffany & Co. Timer brings a customised Zenith El Primero movement to a new titanium and platinum case Time+Tide
Zenith El Primero movement Aug 27, 2026

The new 100-piece Tiffany & Co. Timer brings a customised Zenith El Primero movement to a new titanium and platinum case

The new Tiffany Timer Titanium Platinum watch celebrates 160 years since the introduction of Tiffany & Co.’s first chronograph: the 1866 Timing Watch. It features a 40mm satin-brushed titanium case, a polished platinum bezel, and signature Tiffany Blue dial accents. The watch is powered by a customised Zenith El Primero 400 movement topped with the … Continued

Fratello Talks: How Microbrands Have Changed The Game Fratello
Aug 27, 2026

Fratello Talks: How Microbrands Have Changed The Game

Microbrands have come a long way. What were once largely associated with inexpensive, enthusiast-driven watches have developed into a much broader part of the industry. Today, small brands are experimenting with materials, movements, manufacturing techniques, and design in ways that can make them serious alternatives to more established names. In this episode of Fratello Talks, […] Visit Fratello Talks: How Microbrands Have Changed The Game to read the full article.

Introducing: Straum Expedition Hodinkee
Straum Aug 26, 2026

Introducing: Straum Expedition

What We Know Straum has launched a new take on their integrated bracelet sports watch this week, shifting the focus from evoking nature to getting out and exploring. Fittingly named, the Expedition is the first watch in a new collection which Straum is calling "Built For". This will stand as a second pillar in the brand's offering, alongside the "Inspired By" collection, under which umbrella all the brand's previous releases fall. The most obvious visual cue that something here has changed is the redesigned dial, which swaps the deeply textured, colorful approach of previous Straum releases for a much more utilitarian vocabulary. With bright orange accents, huge amounts of lume, and subtly grained but largely flat dials, the emphasis is less on pure aesthetic appeal and more on legibility and practicality. The same approach has been taken with the case, which has been redesigned, but again, in largely subtle ways. The Grade 5 titanium case — which measures 38.2mm across, 45.7mm lug-to-lug, and is 11mm thick — has been reworked with broader case flanks, a stepped bezel, and a significantly enlarged screw-down crown meant to be usable in the cold or with gloves on. All together, the Expedition is decidedly new, but still clearly and recognizably a Straum. By default, the new watch comes fitted with a black FKM strap, though a new fully Grade 5 titanium case is also available for a modest upcharge, and since the watch uses Straum's strap system, any pre-existing straps an...

Business News: Middle East War Forces The Escapement To Cancel Abu Dhabi Event And Move To Las Vegas Hodinkee
Aug 26, 2026

Business News: Middle East War Forces The Escapement To Cancel Abu Dhabi Event And Move To Las Vegas

Organizers of The Escapement, a planned gathering aimed at attracting thousands of watch collectors and enthusiasts, featuring major independent brands and scheduled for November in Abu Dhabi, canceled the event due to corporate travel restrictions related to the ongoing military conflict in the Middle East. They say they will now stage the three-day show in Las Vegas in February, 2027.  Neeshu Hajra, a U.S.-based luxury event-planning executive who is among the shareholders of the group organizing the event, said some watch brands and executives would have been unable to attend the show at the Etihad Arena in Abu Dhabi due to travel policies affected by the ongoing war in the region. The Escapement will now hold its inaugural event next year at the T-Mobile Arena in Las Vegas from February 5 to 7. "Our decision was mainly made due to corporate travel policies that affected certain brands and the ability to come.  Ultimately,  because this is our inaugural edition, we want to make sure that we have the strongest showing and the best surface area for success," Hajra said in an interview. "The community experience in its totality, both leading up to the event and on site, led us to really believe in Vegas," he added. Biver watches is one of the many brands expected to exhibit at The Escapement.  The event's cancellation and rescheduling underscore the challenges and disruptions to global business and the watch industry amid military conflicts in the Middle East and Ukrai...

Longines Masters The Monopusher SJX Watches
Montblanc Aug 25, 2026

Longines Masters The Monopusher

The Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher is a compelling showcase of the brand’s industrial expertise and increasingly compelling value proposition. The watch pairs 1930s charm with a thoroughly modern manually wound monopusher chronograph. The advanced calibre is complemented by a richly textured dial — in soft blue or warm silver — that features period-inspired pulsometer typography and applied numerals. Initial thoughts The Master Monopusher is illustrative of the industrial transformation that has taken place over the past decade at Longines. Like its rival Tudor, Longines has aggressively moved to incorporate advanced features like silicon hairsprings to create distance between itself and the ever-growing roster of brands that rely on more generic movement platforms that are widely available from suppliers like Sellita and La Joux-Perret. A decade ago, Longines’ latest and greatest monopusher chronograph had an industry-standard Nivarox hairspring, and was adjusted by means of a generic curb-pin regulator. Power reserve was a reasonable — but unimpressive — 54 hours. Fast-forward to today, and every one of these details has been meaningfully upgraded, giving consumers and collectors a reason to choose a mainstream powerhouse over an independent start-up. The advanced technical content results in an attractive value at US$3,900, a price that undercuts rivals like Montblanc that offer similar monopushers. Furthermore, that’s less money — in both ...

Reinvented Royter Debuts Hand-Engraved Nova SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi unobtainable Aug 25, 2026

Reinvented Royter Debuts Hand-Engraved Nova

Brooklyn-based independent watchmaker Dan Royter takes a new direction with the Legacy Series Nova Edition, entirely unlike his past portfolio of chronographs. The first entry in the brand’s new chapter combines a hand-engraved, burgundy lacquered silver dial with a high-end movement from Andreas Strehler in a mid-sized steel case. The Nova is an enormous step up for the budding American independent in terms of design, decoration, and price. Initial thoughts The impressive artistry of the Nova is surprising given Royter’s humble roots building white-label ETA 7750-powered chronographs, before exploring more ambitious dials with an emphasis on customisation. For a one-man operation, the launch of the Nova seemingly means the end for the DR-02 chronograph. Until recently, Royter was the DR-02 and the DR-02 was Royter. Much of the recent explosion of independent watchmaking has concentrated on this genre of three-hand watches with finely decorated movements and artful dials, or, as is increasingly common, exposed movements. However, the sudden flood of new entrants to this once (nearly) non-existent segment hasn’t resulted in a supply glut. Rather, demand from collectors has grown far faster, making watches from blue-chip brands like Dufour, Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi unobtainable and raising the floor for less-established brands. Royter signs his work in the manner you’d expect of a master engraver. The point of this preamble is to explain, not justify, why the ...

Announcements: Geneva Watch Days 2026 Will Take Place September 2-6 Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux Aug 24, 2026

Announcements: Geneva Watch Days 2026 Will Take Place September 2-6

It's hard to believe that Geneva Watch Days, a watch fair that began in 2020 with fewer than 20 participating brands, now welcomes 68 watchmakers for its seventh edition. Taking place September 2-6, Geneva Watch Days has grown into one of the year's most jam-packed watch events, with brand presentations and launches spread across the city. Unlike traditional watch fairs like Watches and Watchers, Geneva Watch Days is decentralized, meaning that brands will present their latest creations at individual showrooms and locations across the city, rather than at one shared venue. At the center of the action is the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc, along the shores of Lake Geneva, where the event's Main Pavilion and Blue Box exhibition space will serve as central gathering points. The Pavilion will host discussions on the broader watch industry, while the Blue Box will showcase a curated selection of watches from different maisons in a themed exhibition. Five of the event's eight founding brands (Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, and MB&F;) will participate this year. They'll be joined by a diverse lineup of watchmakers, from major players like Zenith to independents such as Greubel Forsey, Ming, and Laurent Ferrier, many of whom will present new launches. On Thursday, there will also be a charity auction held by Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo. The sale's profits will help provide scholarships for students of Switzerland's oldest watchmaking school, École d'Horloge...

Audemars Piguet Brings Le Brassus to Singapore SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Brings Le Brassus Aug 24, 2026

Audemars Piguet Brings Le Brassus to Singapore

Next month the National Museum of Singapore’s Gallery Theatre will play host to Audemars Piguet’s Perspectives On Time exhibition. The pop-up event will explore 150 years of Audemars Piguet through four curated spaces, each focused on a different aspect of the brand’s history. Especially curated for Singapore, the exhibition is set to bring together both contemporary and archival pieces, including a range of historic Audemars Piguet wrist and pocket watches from the brand’s museum, many of which will be on display in the country for the first time ever. Four distinct spaces will be organised to highlight different aspects of Audemars Piguet’s technical prowess, including astronomical complications, open-worked movements, and chiming complications. Naturally, the exhibit opens with a look at the brand’s history from founding to present day, traced through a range of rare archival pieces and historic milestones. Open from 10:30am-6:00pm each day in 30-minute sessions, admission to the exhibition is free, though limited slots will be available so early registration is encouraged. The brand has thoughtfully set up a dedicated booking portal to simplify the registration process. Walk-ins will also be accommodated subject to availability. Perspectives On Time will be hosted from September 10-13 at The Gallery Theatre at the National Museum of Singapore, 93 Stamford Rd, Singapore 178897. Register online at audemarspiguet.com.  

Introducing: Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Aqua Blue" Hodinkee
Czapek Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue Aug 20, 2026

Introducing: Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Aqua Blue"

What We Know Today, Czapek has lifted the curtain on a new limited-edition addition to its Promenade line of everyday dress watches. The Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Aqua Blue" expands on a design motif first introduced with the Fratello x Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Veridian Green," this time applying the Transparency concept to a wholly in-house-devised model. Here, the "Veridian Green" sapphire-gradient dial has been swapped for a similar "Aqua Blue" variant, with the fumé effect achieved through a special metallization process in which small dots of metallic coating are applied to a sapphire disc. The dots themselves — which measure just eight microns each — are laid out in varying density to achieve the gradient effect, which radiates out from the small seconds subdial at 4:30. Unlike the Fratello limited edition, which had applied markers, the Promenade Transparencies "Aqua Blue" uses light blue 3D Super-LumiNova markers, which match the lume on the handset. Visible through the translucent dial is the SXH7, a skeletonized take on Czapek's in-house SXH5 micro-rotor automatic caliber. The SXH5 was first launched by the brand in 2020, and now finds itself at the heart of a number of watches in the Czapek lineup, including the Antarctique and, as the SXH5.1, in the solid dial Promenade. The SXH7, which is visible from both directions, is handsome, with plenty of modern, somewhat industrial touches (like sandblasted plates) and enough handcraft to keep tradi...

Wei Koh and Guillaume Tetu Launch Legare with the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aug 20, 2026

Wei Koh and Guillaume Tetu Launch Legare with the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted

Just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, we see the debut of a new haute horlogerie brand, brought to us in part by Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and the Rake, and a longtime fixture in the watch media landscape. The new brand, Legare, was founded by Koh and Guillaume Tetu, a watch industry veteran who counts Hautlence as well as TAG Heuer and Ralph Lauren on his resume. Koh and Tetu are incredibly well connected professionally, and the first watch out of the gate for Legare reflects that particularly well – this is the product of a lot of collaboration between many partners, and has plenty of pure watch nerd DNA in its inspiration as well.  The brand’s first watch is the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, and takes inspiration from a rare pocket watch made by Albert-Gustave Piguet, who would ultimately become well known in the watch industry for his work on the Lemania 2310 caliber. But the watch that Legare credits with shaping the Chapter 1 is a pocket watch he created while a student at the Vallee de Joux School of Watchmaking in 1932, when he was just 17 years old. That watch featured two large split bi-metallic balance wheels, whose rates were averaged by a differential. According to Legare, only six total examples of this pocket watch were completed.  Legare’s conceit in making the Chapter 1 is essentially an answer to the hypothetical question of what if Piguet’s idea behind this movement had continued to evolve? This is an entirely original movement architecture (and diff...

A Nice Vintage-Inspired Surprise: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Aug 20, 2026

A Nice Vintage-Inspired Surprise: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary

Over the past few years, we have seen great changes within the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms lineup. The brand celebrated the 70th anniversary of its iconic diver in multiple “acts.” On top of that, Blancpain created a full collection of Fifty Fathoms models in different sizes, offering something for everyone and addressing an issue many enthusiasts […] Visit A Nice Vintage-Inspired Surprise: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Building A Dream Two-Watch Collection Fratello
Aug 20, 2026

Fratello Talks: Building A Dream Two-Watch Collection

Two watches should be enough, at least in theory. If you had no budget limitations and could own only two watches, which would you choose? The challenge isn’t simply to pick two favorites. With only two spots available, both watches need to earn their place. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by […] Visit Fratello Talks: Building A Dream Two-Watch Collection to read the full article.

Hands On: Richard Mille RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Le Locle formerly known Aug 19, 2026

Hands On: Richard Mille RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago

Launched just a few weeks ago, the RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago is modelled on the Colnago C68, the same road bike used by Tadej Pogacar, the current Tour de France champion who has long worn a Richard Mille while racing. Though new, the RM 64-01 is still quintessential Richard Mille in form, substance, and price. The watch is large, lightweight, and exceptionally, satisfyingly ergonomic. As is tradition, the RM64-01 movement is the work of Audemars Piguet Le Locle, formerly known as Renaud Papi. The case material is made by longtime partner NTPT, a Swiss carbon composites specialist. And in the great tradition of Richard Mille, the RM 64-01 is very expensive. Tadej Pogacar with the RM 64-01. Image – Richard Mille Initial thoughts The RM 64-01 is the typical large format tonneau-shaped case shared with most current Richard Mille models. At about 43 mm wide, almost 50 mm long, and over 14 mm tall, the case is big, but sits perfectly on the wrist thanks to its curvature and lightness. And while thick, integrated rubber straps normally detract from wearability, the strap adds to the ergonomics of the RM 64-01. The watch is almost entirely in bright white, with accents of bright blue and rose gold — it makes a statement, even from a distance, as most Richard Mille watches do. But zoom in past the over-the-top aesthetics and the movement reveals fine detailing. The blue and white bridges are all titanium, but painted by hand to mimic the Colnago C68 bike frame. The tradition...

Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles SJX Watches
Ming ly minor variations have Aug 18, 2026

Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles

Having explored several concepts related to energy systems in watchmaking, from mainspring barrel capacity to automatic winding and the chain and fusee, our technical series continues with a detailed examination of how that energy reaches the escapement. A vital part of all watch movements, gears are usually taken for granted and generally not given much thought. But upon closer look, gear tooth profiles vary in shape and size. These seemingly minor variations have big implications and reveal various calculated trade-offs. We take a closer look at the different gear profiles used in watchmaking and review their particularities and evolutions over time.  History and curves Mechanical timekeeping is inextricably linked to the concept of gears and transmissions. Long before the invention of the hairspring, early craftsmen and horologists were already using toothed wheels in conjunction with weights, verge escapements, and pendulums to measure the passage of time.  Historically, gear-cutters were separate professionals who catered to clock makers. Horological lore has it that the tooth profiles used during the 1600s were traced after the thumb’s shape, although it’s difficult find evidence for this theory. The invention of the hairspring marked a step-change in the technical evolution of the watch, and the later development of detached escapements enhanced precision further. These advances revealed transmission problems that had previously been masked by larger timing er...

Alpinist to Astron: Seiko Celebrates 145 Years SJX Watches
Seiko Celebrates 145 Years Kintaro Aug 14, 2026

Alpinist to Astron: Seiko Celebrates 145 Years

Kintaro Hattori is considered the father of the Japanese watch and clock industry, having opened K. Hattori & Co. in Tokyo 145 years ago. Hattori’s humble store eventually evolved into an empire that made Seiko the largest watch manufacturer in the world during the 1980s. To mark the anniversary, Seiko has dressed six of its greatest hits in regal “Edo purple” livery. The standouts include the compass-bezel Alpinist ref. HBC006 built the take on the Japanese Alps, the luxe titanium-and-ceramic Astron Dual-Time Chronograph ref. HAB011, and the spacefaring Rotocall ref. HFL001. Seiko Prospex Alpinist HBC006 Last year, Seiko’s iconic green-and-gilt Alpinist turned 30; this year it turns purple. The Alpinist line dates back to 1959 but this case style launched in 1995, designed by Shigeo Sakai — the same designer responsible for the amusing inflatable Seiko Airpro. The green-and-gilt colourway inspired by Mr Sakai’s Mini Cooper became a sales success, defying conventional wisdom that green watches are niche products. I can’t predict if that will hold true for purple, but with 7,000 units Seiko seems to think it will. The colour is certainly eye-catching, which will help it stand out on social media and boost collectibility. The US$$900 price tag helps too, making it a good value considering its solid specifications. Upmarket details include a Diashield-protected stainless steel case, a sapphire crystal with sapphire date magnifier, an unexpected 200 m test depth,...

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV SJX Watches
Voutilainen demonstrate demand Aug 14, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV

Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...

First Look - The New Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Enamel and Urushi Lacquer HCC005 & HCC006 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Aug 13, 2026

First Look - The New Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Enamel and Urushi Lacquer HCC005 & HCC006

The Presage Classic collection has become Seiko’s showcase for traditional Japanese decorative arts. Within the collection, the Craftsmanship line celebrates centuries-old artisanal techniques through enamel, porcelain and urushi lacquer dials. This year, Seiko expands its catalogue with two refined additions that honour an important milestone in the company’s history: the 1913 Laurel, Japan’s first wristwatch. […]