Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: When Your Watch Gets Stolen
The story of a man who specializes in getting that watch back on your wrist.
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Hodinkee
The story of a man who specializes in getting that watch back on your wrist.
SJX Watches
Just 23 years old – he was born in 1997 – Norifumi Seki graduated from watchmaking school last year, and recently completed his first timepiece, the Sphere Moon Phase Pocket Watch. Though inspired by the works of past watchmakers, Mr Seki’s creation is surprisingly novel in both aesthetics and construction, especially since it is essentially a school project. Based in Tokyo, Mr Seki has trod a short path to create this impressive watch. After graduating from junior high school, which is for children aged 12 to 15 in Japan, his interest in mechanics and craftsmanship led him to fabricate simple objects, including a beautifully-made folding knife. Inspiration In 2016, Mr Seki met Masahiro Kikuno – arguably Japan’s most interesting contemporary watchmaker – who inspired him to manufacture a watch by hand. And so at age 18, Mr Seki entered Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry, a school in Tokyo’s Shibuya district that also teaches watchmaking and shoemaking. During his final year in school, Mr Seki started on his own watch. It’s a large pocket watch with a regulator-style time display, oversized date and month indicators, along with an extra-large spherical moon phase. Spherical moon and drum calendar Made entirely of titanium, the moon phase is 20 mm in diameter and set via a recessed pusher in the case band. A third of the sphere is heat-blued titanium, while the other is coated in gold. Show in two large windows, each containing two drums for the digits, the cale...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: As we’re sure most of you reading this are already aware, Baselworld 2020 is officially dead. Yes, despite the perplexing decision from officials to say that the world’s biggest watch fair had been “postponed” to the end of January 2021, it has, like so many other trade shows this year, fallen victim to … ContinuedThe post Coronavirus may have killed Baselworld 2020 … but was it on the way out already? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Clive Cussler, famed novelist and maritime explorer, died on February 24, aged 88. The writer was a larger-than-life character, and his series of novels featuring the renegade adventurer, underwater explorer and treasure hunter Dirk Pitt, such as Raise the Titanic! and Sahara, captivated a generation of avid readers. Cussler’s novels also brought many people’s attention to DOXA … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: An interview with Clive Cussler appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
What many have been expecting has now been confirmed: BaselWorld 2020 is officially postponed. Read our take on the situation inside.
Time+Tide
According to many, many news stories over the last 12 months, India is expected to overtake China as the world’s most populous country within the next decade, with the current population of roughly 1.37 billion set to skyrocket. It’s a country on the up and up, and its people are developing quite the taste for … ContinuedThe post These are the five best watches in India, by popularity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
One-on-one with the man behind the top Patek Philippe fan page on Instagram.
Time+Tide
A few days ago, we uploaded a photo of the Zenith Defy Classic Ref.95.9000.670/51.R790 and asked our 120,000 followers this question: “Is the Zenith Classic underrated?” The response was resoundingly confirmative, with many people opining that not only the Defy Classic but the Defy range in general was, more often than not, overlooked and it shouldn’t … ContinuedThe post We asked you if the Zenith Defy was underrated, and this is what you said appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Tyson “The Gypsy King” Fury is an interesting man … to say the least. And, as of last night, the Brit is once again the boxing Heavyweight Champion of the World, dominating Deontay Wilder for seven rounds before finishing the American with a ruthless onslaught that left Wilder’s corner with no choice but to throw … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Tyson Fury can’t go without his Rolex Day-Date 40 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Synonymous with playing Iron Man in Disney’s The Avengers franchise, Robert Downey Jr. is also a fan of Urwerk, having worn several of its watches on screen. Having loaned an Urwerk UR-105 CT to Mr Downey to wear in Avengers: Endgame, the watchmaker then offered the watch up for a good cause, selling it at Phillips auctioneers last year for US$312,500. Proceeds from the sale went to Random Act Funding, a charity established by Mr Downey and his wife, Susan. Now another watch worn by Mr Downey is going under the hammer, once again to benefit Random Act Funding. The watch in question is the UR-111C Black that was worn by Mr Downey to the premieres of Avengers: Endgame in New York and Los Angeles last year. Robert Downey Jr. sporting the UR-111C. Photos – Urwerk Offered in like-new condition, the UR-111C is one of just 25 examples made and identical to the standard model save for one important detail: “RDJ” is engraved on the case place where the serial number would usually be. The watch is being sold in an online auction, with the bidding starting at 125,000 Swiss francs. Bids can be placed from now until 9:00 pm Swiss time on February 24. Only registered members of Urwerk Pre-Owned can bid on the watch, and registration can be done on Urwerkpreowned.com. For more information, please contact Urwerk social media manager Alex Rose.
Hodinkee
Looking mean in green.
Deployant
Any De Bethune is rare. They make many piece uniques, but here is a 5 piece limited edition in collaboration with a private jet company: the DB27 Fort Aero.
SJX Watches
Reviving a name once used for a line of tonneau-shaped women’s watches, Vacheron Constantin has just unveiled the Égérie, now a round watch with an unusually positioned crown. Translating as “muse”, Égérie is a slightly larger and more casual automatic watch for ladies, setting it apart from Vacheron Constantin’s current offerings for ladies, which are mostly downsized or quartz versions of men’s watches, as well as pricey, high-jewellery timepieces. That also sets it apart from its namesake, introduced in 2003 with a tonneau case, which lasted several years in the catalogue but never quite took off. Inspired by haute couture according to Vacheron Constantin, the new Égérie line is centred on two models, with either a moon phase or date. Each is offered in pink gold or steel, as well as a fully diamond-set version in white gold, for a total of five models. Égérie Self-Winding (top row), and Égérie Moonphase All models share a fully polished case with a diamond-set bezel, with a silver opaline dial featuring an offset sub-dial at two o’clock that sits just beside the crown, topped with a moonstone cabochon. The dials are decorated with a pleated, radial guilloche done the traditional way, with a hand-operated rose engine. The engine-turning is intersected up by a chapter ring with spherical markings for the minutes and applied gold hour numerals. Specially designed for the collection, the numerals are a modern take on traditional Breguet numerals...
SJX Watches
Having unveiled the vintage-inspired Presage Automatic Chronograph ref. SRQ031 in October 2019, Seiko has returned to the same historical wristwatch with the Presage Prestige 2020. Comprising of three variants – SPB127J1, SPB131J1, and SPB129J1 – the new Presage is once again modelled on the “Crown” chronograph ref. 5719A-45899 that was unveiled in 1964 to mark that year’s Tokyo Olympics. The vintage original was a mono-pusher chronograph with basic functionality, featuring a central, elapsed seconds hand and black plastic bidirectional bezel for recording times of over a minute. Last year’s Presage chronograph was a step up from the original with three counters, but this year’s Presage Prestige does away with the chronograph altogether. But since the original had a plain dial without registers, the new Presage Prestige manages to look pretty much the same. The original “Crown” chronograph from 1964 All three versions of the Presage Prestige differ only in dial colour, and are otherwise identical in terms of dimensions, design and movement. Because of the styling of the “Crown” Chronograph, the Presage Prestige manages to be fairly faithful to the original. Nearly all of the elements of the dial, from the chapter ring with the applied hour markers and oblong “lume” plots to the dauphine hands, are a close-enough replica of the original. Granted it has been modernised with the usual tweaks found in remakes, including a slightly larger case and ...
Quill & Pad
Dedicated ladies’ watches are a relatively surprising turn of direction for Zenith, which has primarily concentrated on men’s watches up to now. Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at the fresh new feminine additions of the Zenith Defy Midnight And Elite Classic collections for 2020.
Time+Tide
While a great many of the best watches unveiled in 2019 were vintage-inspired homages, there were also plenty of timepieces released that were resolutely modern and quite eccentric. And while we’d like to mention all of them, we’ve narrowed it down to these, the five quirkiest watches released in 2019: SWATCH FLYMAGIC The Flymagic is … ContinuedThe post Oddballs: 5 of the quirkiest watches released in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
With so many great watches from last year, you can't remember them all.
Time+Tide
Towards the end of last year I was fortunate enough to experience the Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs watches in the metal. They are a shining example of something that many watch manufacturers are looking to execute - exceptional pre-owned pieces sold by the manufacturer. The program has been running for a number of years now, where … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Vacheron Constantin are removing the dangers of buying vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
One of Joshua Munchow's favorite watches from 2019, winning the Calendar and Astronomy prize at the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, was the Hermès Arceau L'Heure de la Lune. Not only is it a stunning double moon phase watch with wandering dials, but also features an incredible module designed by Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode. Take a deep drive into it here with Joshua.
Time+Tide
Independence is a rare commodity in watchmaking. To have it is one thing; to hold on to it is quite another. We’ve seen many great brands consumed by hungry conglomerates over the past two decades, with several big names falling under group ownership since 2009. But what of those that remain? Which labels still stand … ContinuedThe post The 5 best independent watch brands of the last decade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There’s a cliché that men are often clueless when it comes to choosing the right gift for a woman – especially (weirdly) when she’s the Significant Other in their lives. That, combined with the eye-rolling that all of us at Time+Tide do when an email with “Valentines” in the subject line lands in our inboxes … ContinuedThe post How to avoid messing up the Valentine’s Day watch gift appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Few names loom larger in the horological hemisphere than Mike Tay … and it is very easy to understand why. Here is a man at the helm of the largest and most influential watch retailer in the entirety of the Asia Pacific – The Hour Glass. It’s a region which many regard to be the … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Mike Tay appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...
Time+Tide
It’s Australia’s biggest watch scandal in living memory. Hell, if anything is going to end up with a ‘-gate’ suffix in our world, it’s this. Last weekend, Rolexforums.com broke the news that Christopher Essery - the man behind @horologyhouse, a popular YouTube Channel, website and Instagram account renowned for its macro photography - is alleged to … ContinuedThe post What we know so far about the alleged fake Rolex scandal engulfing popular YouTuber @horologyhouse appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Slightly retro and conventionally shaped, the Bell & Ross Vintage line is a popular counterpart to the brand’s better-known, all-square BR 01 and 03. The Vintage collection gets three new models at Baselworld 2020 – namely a time-only, GMT, and chronograph – including the BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze limited edition. Notably, the new BR V2 watches are offered with a type of elastic fabric strap secured by a small hook, often known as an “MN” strap. That’s short for Marine Nationale – the French navy – and reputedly comes from the fact that such straps were originally fabricated by from parachute webbing by French navy personnel, who were said to have been issued watches without straps. Named after l’Aéronavale, the air arm of the French navy, the BR V2-94 limited edition is inspired by the colours of the French navy’s dress uniform. So the dial is a dark, metallic blue, matched with gold-plated hands and hour markers, and a bronze case. And bezel is fixed and features a blue, anodised aluminium insert that allows for measurement of elapsed time. The 41 mm case is made of CuAl7Si2 bronze, an alloy that’s almost all copper, save for 7% aluminium and 2% silicon. Over time, the alloy acquires a brownish surface oxidisation, in contrast to the green verdigris of more common bronze alloys. And like the other BR V2 chronographs, this is powered by an ETA 2894-2, which is an ETA 2892 base with a chronograph module on top. The other additions to the line wi...
Time+Tide
At the beginning of last year, the famed Le Brassus-based watchmaker Audemars Piguet released their first totally new collection in decades, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59. It is safe to say that the release got people talking, with an outpouring of expression on social media articulating many people’s disappointment with the collection, blaming it for … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 explained appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I’m rather fortunate in my role here at Time+Tide - I get to wear a lot of different watches. In fact, in 2019 alone I tried on and wore more than 200 different timepieces. Getting to experience this many different watches is a privilege, and while each and every one had both positives and negatives, they … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why thick watches are no good appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Grand Seiko releases 4 new models for the 60th Anniversary of the Grand Seiko- 1 Hi-Beat Automatic, 1 Ladies Automatic, 2 men's Quartz with blue dials.
Quill & Pad
Many of the great marques in the history of watchmaking were driven by prominent figures who ended up with a watch named after them. Such was the case for both Louis Cartier and Pierre Arpels. Both were born into jewelry and watch dynasties and both made prominent marks on the histories of their respective houses. How else are they intertwined? Martin Green explains here.
Time+Tide
Most of you reading this will have already heard of Gary Getz, or, as he goes by on his Instagram nom de guerre, GaryG (@garyg_1). But if for some reason you haven’t stumbled across his ’gram page or heard of him at a horological gathering, believe me when I say, the man hath some nice … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: First impressions from an A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus owner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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