Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: Five Skeletons That Are Anything But Bare Bones
They're among the most intricate designs we have to offer.
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Hodinkee
They're among the most intricate designs we have to offer.
SJX Watches
First announced two years ago as an exclusive for its retailers in France, the Vanguard Line Cut is strikingly different from the usual Franck Muller offering. Having just two hands and sandblasted titanium all round, the Line Cut is monochromatic, sleek, and thin, while also being as minimalist as a Franck Muller can be. Initial thoughts Better known for its big watches in over-the-top styles, Franck Muller did something different with the Vanguard Line Cut. It’s essentially a flatter, sleeker version of its Vanguard. But the Line Cut is more than a nip and tuck. The tactile feel of the Line Cut is surprising in the hand and on the wrist. It feels different from the typical Franck Muller, being lighter, slimmer, and restrained. And like all tonneau-shaped Franck Muller watches, the case is slightly curved so it hugs the wrist. Unlike most other watches in this segment that emphasise angles and straight lines, like the Bulgari Octo Finissimo for instance, the Line Cut is all about rounded corners and soft edges, so it wears quite comfortably. And the Line Cut has a new calibre developed for the watch, which makes it more interesting in technical terms. That said, the movement is slightly mysterious since Franck Muller provides no info about it other than the specs, at least officially. The specs indicate the movement is indeed an in-house movement, since they don’t correspond to any well-known calibres. (And based on what I have learnt about the movement unofficially, ...
Hodinkee
Feast your eyes on 36mm of horological history.
Time+Tide
When people use the terms ‘fashion’ and ‘watch’ in the same sentence near die-hard enthusiasts, it can cause a shiver down their spines. “Fashion watch” is practically a derogatory term in the watch community, dismissing a piece as a cheap build leveraging the name of a popular fashion house to elicit purchases. To be fair, … ContinuedThe post Nicolas Cage loves shortbread, tree bark, and Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It's also one of the most interesting releases of the year.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: We recently ran the first and second parts of our Watch Confessions series in which Time+Tide interviewed members of the community to get them to share their watch-related secrets. In this latest instalment, one anonymous watch lover justifies the apparently unjustifiable and explains why he wears a fake Rolex. “The thing is I actually wanted … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “I wear a fake Rolex and don’t give a damn” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched in 2007, Top Gun is IWC’s line up of all-ceramic pilot’s watches. But since its inauguration over a decade ago, the Top Gun has largely relied on a singular colour of ceramic – black in either a matte or glossy finish. IWC did offer a few models with coloured ceramic cases, but they were limited editions, until now. At Watches & Wonders 2022 IWC revealed ceramic cases in white or green with a pair of Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition – both regular production models. Instantly evoking stormtroopers from Star Wars, the “Lake Tahoe” edition has a case of white ceramic, while the “Woodland” edition is in forest-green ceramic. Both are 43.5 mm in diameter and contain the in-house cal. 69380. The two new models double the range of ceramic colours offered by IWC. They join the Pilot’s Watch “Mojave” editions launched in 2019 that had an unusual sand-coloured ceramic case, and last year’s “Laureus Sport for Good” in blue ceramic. “Woodland” Initial thoughts Long the brand’s bestselling line, the Pilot’s Watch has been a focus of IWC in recent few years. The brand has made safe bets with iterating on popular models that have received upgrades such as in-house movements, new dial colours, or more compact cases in new materials. In comparison the latest pair of chronographs are more adventurous. Intrinsically interesting because of their colours, the white and green ceramic cases are relatively uncommon for chronographs in this ...
Quill & Pad
Elizabeth Doerr wasn’t the only journalist to chat with A. Lange & Söhne during Watches and Wonders 2022 about the three new watches the brand launched at the show. Here are two more short video conversations featuring Justin Hast (author of 'The Watch Annual') and SJX (founder of Watches by SJX). Sit back and enjoy!
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer is injecting advanced materials technology into what was the most affordable tourbillon-chronograph on the market, creating the Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph. The new watch makes liberal use of carbon in all its forms, most notably with a carbon-composite hairspring along with a dial and crown made entirely of synthetic diamond, reflecting chief executive Frederic Arnault’s interest in technology and industrial processes. Priced at the equivalent of US$375,000, the Plasma is the first luxury mechanical watch to utilise artificial, or lab-grown, diamonds. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has developed a suite of cutting-edge technology unusual a brands in its price range, though the brand’s most significant innovation, the carbon-composite hairspring, has never really gotten the recognition it deserves. While extremely expensive and slated to be produced in tiny numbers – just a handful a year according to Mr Arnault – the Plasma will certain broadcast TAG Heuer’s accomplishments in innovation, as well as that of its in synthetic diamond suppliers. While lab-grown diamonds aren’t new, they have never before been used in high-end watch. As befits their unconventional status, the synthetic diamonds have been set in an abstract manner on the case, as opposed to typical gem setting. Combined with the synthetic diamond dial and crown, the result is a watch that is weird yet compelling. But more important than the decorative use of synthetic diamond is the...
Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton's Vivienne mascot is given a lot more attention in a slim Tambour case.The post Louis Vuitton’s cutesy Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The watch nerd that WMMT is, he rarely immediately wears his new watches, putting them aside for a few days and letting the anticipation grow. When it finally came time to wear his new Rolex, he took it out of the box and proudly put it on his wrist. And then horror struck: he didn’t feel anything, not a thing! Zilch, nada, niente! What to do?
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: We recently ran the first part of our Watch Confessions in which Time+Tide began to interview members of the community to get them to share their watch-related secrets. In this second instalment, one anonymous watch lover tells how acquiring his dream watch didn’t turn out quite as planned… “Men can often do dumb things … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Divorce made me buy a crazy expensive watch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having just closed its doors, Watches & Wonders 2022 (W&W;) was a success. All the industry executives I spoke with were satisfied with the event and predict it will happen again, barring any major disagreements between the important brands and groups that took part. That is borne out by the numbers as well. According to its organisers, the event had 22,000 individual visitors. Compare that to 2019 when SIHH had 23,000 visitors with about the same number of exhibitors, while Baselworld logged over 80,000 that year but with 20 times the number of exhibitors. All things considered W&W; 2022 had a good turnout. All the exhibiting brands stuck to the standard booth format of the event, except for the independent-minded quartet of Rolex, Tudor, Chopard, and Patek Philippe, which reused their Baselworld booths While turnout was good, business was great. The luxury watch industry is enjoying a boom without parallel – “sold out” and “waiting list” were certainly the defining phrases of the fair. I asked Gisbert Brunner, the veteran watch journalist who started his career before the Quartz Crisis, if he could recall a comparable period in history and he could not, though he said today does evoke the go-go years of the late 1990s. The slightly more drab section of the fair made up of almost identical booths Demand is so strong that assorted brands are being revived and new brands are entering the market. Even Cartier launched the highly complex and ingenious Masse Mysterieu...
Quill & Pad
In recent years, the world of high-end watches has become a far more colorful place. We have evolved from decades of conservatism in which a blue dial was daring to a kaleidoscopic era where anything is possible. And now red arrives, which has the advantage of a richness of hues. Here Martin Green looks at four new red-dialed watches from Bell & Ross, Oris, Rado, and Omega.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: Grim pragmatism ensures the watch world is not big on public candour. Retailers are totally dependent on the watch brands to secure the most lucrative stock. Buyers are dependent on the whims of their authorised dealers in order to buy in-demand models. The watch media meanwhile is still largely dependent on advertising dollars, so … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “My watch buying has got out of control – I must’ve spent $2 million” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This is a year of celestial celebration for Jaeger-LeCoultre with “The Stellar Odyssey” collection paying tribute to the centuries-old marriage of astronomy and horology in the most breathtaking ways. A few examples of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Watches & Wonders releases truly stand out from the crowd, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Galaxia and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce a brand new complication inspired by shooting stars appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
All of the greatest vintage watches the internet has to offer.
Hodinkee
The new range of shades at Watches & Wonder 2022 proves it.
Deployant
Just in: Patek Philippe released a new highly technical chronograph with many innovative features. This is the new Ref. 5470P, 1/10th of a second monopusher chronograph in platinum.
Time+Tide
Gloriously blending modern design and classic watchmaking savoir-faire, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton screams grail watch in any situation. It sits at the pinnacle of Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas lineup and deserves its place in the pantheon of the complicated sports watch. Housing a beautifully executed skeletonised perpetual calendar calibre in a case … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Patek Philippe releases an addition to their Calatrava line: the Ref. 5226G in white gold, a textured dial and guilloched Clous de Paris on the case side.
Quill & Pad
Diver’s watches rank among the most popular timepieces, which is not surprising considering that they combine cutting-edge features with bold, sporty looks. At Watches and Wonders 2022 Montblanc joined the ranks of sports watch manfacturers with a refreshing take on the diver’s watch called the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date.
Hodinkee
No saturation diving. But not in the traditional sense.
Deployant
François-Paul Journe releases the final version of his Vegabondage trilogy line with this new release of the model 1 in Gold.
Time+Tide
This Watches & Wonders, Hublot delivered another head-turning collection with a new square case shape, a fresh array of coloured ceramic pieces and another collaboration with pop artist Richard Orlinski. Check out this video with Andrew and Jeremy for their hot take on the brand’s 2022 novelties. Square Bang With the Hublot Square Bang, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hublot show it’s hip to be square with a brand new case shape amongst their 2022 novelties appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Sometimes we have to make a tough decision,” Zenith CEO Julien Tornare tells Andrew in a bombshell revelation in this video. “We decided to stop producing the Defy Classic.” Suffice to say, this is a big call because the Zenith Defy Classic is a great watch on multiple levels. It’s sporty but sleek, practical yet … ContinuedThe post Shock news: Zenith Defy Classic collection to be discontinued by end of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Grand Seiko's first mechanical complication stole the Geneva show.
Deployant
Piaget extended the Polo Skeleton line with a new diamond encrusted model in a white gold case. Here is our Quick Takes, with live photographs.
Time+Tide
The Submersible has always been Panerai’s hardcore tool watch since it launched as its own standalone collection in 2019. With some of Panerai’s other collections moving into a dressier and probably drier setting, the Submersible line has remained 100% tool watch. The 2022 novelties sees a new middle ground for the Panerai Submersible range, introducing … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Diving into Panerai’s retooled Submersible Range at Watches & Wonders 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
For W&W; 2022, Zenith releases a new Chronomaster Open and solid gold and two tone steel and gold extensions to the Chronomaster Sport line.
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