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New: Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon
Franck Muller introduces the Grand Central Tourbillon, with a centrally mounted flying tourbillon housed in the signature Cintrée Curvex case.
Results for Marine Chronometer & The Longitude Problem
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #221 Another Round of Guilty Pleasure Watches
Kaz and Mike bring back an old-time favorite and run through another round of guilty pleasure watches that make them feel dirty all over. There's a twist though - these watches are slightly more under-the-radar than you might be expecting. Plus, you'll hear about some recent releases and a killer chronograph from Brew Watches. Enjoy!
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #220 Watch Recommendation Faux Pas
Kaz and Mike are back to talk about the challenges behind introducing new collectors and enthusiasts to the world of watches. Getting into watches can be tough, and many times - experienced collectors can inadvertently turn new enthusiasts off from the hobby by meeting their questions with outlandish responses.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #217 Ruining Watch Pricing for Everyone
Mike is back, and the guys are talking about some of the most irritating factors that affect watch pricing for both new models and what you'd find on the secondary market. There's also a nice, matchy-matchy wrist check going on, some new Seiko models to chat about, and more.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Fortis… Tool Watches in Black Turtlenecks: Artist and Watch Collaborations – Part 2
Synonomous with "tool watch," Fortis risked it all with artsy pieces that compromised the backbone to their reputation time and time again.
Quill & Pad
Montegrappa Harry Potter Hogwarts Limited Edition: Revisiting Magic
Montegrappa is revisiting Harry Potter in a new limited edition pen aptly named Harry Potter: Hogwarts L.E. Nancy Olson reports on the collection comprising a fountain pen and a rollerball, each honoring the world’s most famous fictional school of witchcraft and wizardry.
SJX Watches
Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m
One of the most anticipated sales during Geneva’s watch auction week just concluded with a big number – the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for CHF4.749 million, or about US$5.2 million, including fees. While bidding was steady, it was restrained. Three bidders were the key movers behind the result – a phone bidders represented by Yong Ho and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips in Hong Kong and Geneva respectively, as well as an online bidder in Singapore. At the end it was down to the Singaporean buyer and Mr Ghotbi’s phone bidder, who clinched the watch with a hammer of CHF3.9 million. I wrote just earlier this week that I expected the Grande Sonnerie to sell for between US$4.0-5.0 million, so the result was well within my expectation. While there was talk of a far higher number prior to the sale, a variety of factors led me to that range, including the number of known potential buyers as well as the values of comparable watches. And that was how it turned out.
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New: Swatch X Peanuts Collection on Chillout TGIFriday!
Swatch watches introduces 6 new watches with the Peanuts theme, featuring Snoopy, Charlie Brown, Woodstock, and the rest of the Peanuts gang! Available now!
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm
They say that fashion trends move in cycles, but when a design remains attractive for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims. The Vacheron Constaintin Historiques American 1921 is unashamedly a period piece, but that’s not to say it belongs to a bygone era. It might look strange … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Winners – 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève
The award ceremony of 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) just kicked off the biggest week in Geneva’s horological calendar. Widely regarded as the all-encompassing awards of watchmaking, the GPHG is made up of fourteen prizes for individual categories, plus a special prize for the watch of there year. And here are the year’s winners. Aiguille d’Or Grand Recognised for its aesthetic and technical qualities – it is the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar took home the top prize of the event. Audacity The winner certainly lives up to the name of the prize. The Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem is over the top but finely decorated in an artisanal manner, with an impressive movement that combines an automaton and minute repeater. Innovation Deserving of its prize, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is one of the most technically impressive watches of 2021. And that’s because it’s kitted out with a double-wheel escapement powered by twin going trains, each equipped with a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism. Men’s Watch Grand Seiko’s Elegance SLGH005 “White Birch” is equipped with an impressive, latest-generation calibre, the cal. 9SA5. It was a worthy winner, though it has to be said that the competition was not especially strong this year. Launched last year for Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary, the cal. 9SA5 is the brand’s highest-end mechanical movement ...
Quill & Pad
Livestream 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Follow Watchmaking’s Biggest Night Here
The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is scheduled to begin at 6:30 pm Central European Time on Thursday the 12th of November. Follow the big night on Quill & Pad and let us know your thoughts on the winners (and losers) in the comments.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches
Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...
Time+Tide
Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction
You may have heard a lot about Loupe This these past few weeks. The online auction platform, founded by Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg, recently hosted the charitable Pink Dial Project Auction, which raised $526,803 USD for the fight against breast cancer. They also auctioned off a generously donated Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014, which secured … ContinuedThe post Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
5 Unique Watches With Artistic Dials At Only Watch 2021
The Only Watch auction is a great place to see (and bid on!) unique pieces by some of the most talented artisans and watchmakers in the world. Here Joshua Munchow highlights five watches from Only Watch 2021 that feature a variety of spectacular artistic crafts.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”
Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1974 Rolex 'Daytona' Sigma Dial Ref. 6263, A 1967 Omega Seamaster Chronograph, And A 1970s Vacheron Constantin
An incognito Daytona, complete with sigma symbols surrounding the six o'clock lume plot, headlines the week's vintage selection.
Deployant
New: Laco München Erbstück
Laco introduces a new heritage Pilot watch - the München Erbstück, complete with namesake heirloom patina baked right into the case and dial.
Revolution
Only Watch 2021 According to Wei Koh
Wei Koh sits down to have a look at some of this year’s most talked about unique creations for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction. This was while the complete collection was on show at the Malmaison by The Hour Glass in Singapore.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1
Widely regarded as important, the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch was a landmark when it was unveiled in 1992. The first wristwatch to incorporate a grande et petite sonnerie, widely regarded as the pinnacle of complications, the Grande Sonnerie is indeed a feat of miniaturisation, construction, and finishing. And now the very first example is slated to go under the hammer at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. Initial thoughts Originally conceived as a homage of early 20th century Swiss watchmaking – the very sort of watches Mr Dufour worked on early in his career – the Grande Sonnerie revered today for many reasons, but it really is all about two accomplishments. The wristwatch (left), and its pocket watch counterpart One is miniaturisation – this was the first ever wristwatch grande sonnerie. Prior examples were all pocket watches and correspondingly large. And the second, arguably more important quality, is its movement finishing. Mr Dufour decorated each component of the movement exceedingly well. So well, in fact, that this is arguably better finished than even the finest examples of grande sonnerie pocket watches made by brands like Patek Philippe. In the metal the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch is eminently classical, and also fairly large at 41 mm in diameter. In fact, when it premiered in 1992 the Grande Sonnerie would have been massive – the typical men’s dress watch was barely 35 mm then. The Grande Sonnerie is almost a pocket watch with lugs...
Time+Tide
Rollie Moly! Cousin Greg falls foul of a dodgy Rolex in Succession’s latest episode…
Succession has almost zero characters with redeeming qualities. For the most part the Roy family and those in their orbit are complete assholes. Each scene may as well be set in a garden in Westeros, the veiled take on the Murdoch family revealing endless backstabbing, traded insults, and nothing that resembles conventional family love. One … ContinuedThe post Rollie Moly! Cousin Greg falls foul of a dodgy Rolex in Succession’s latest episode… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
4 Dufours: Contemporary Watchmaking’s Most Important Creations
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has revealed that its upcoming sale this fall, The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV, will feature not one but four extraordinary Philippe Dufour creations. Wei gives us the proper run down while the auction house came through Singapore for their Geneva Watch Auction: XIV showcase.
Hodinkee
Auctions: Highlights From Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIV
A massive sale, full of heavy hitters from across the horological spectrum – plus an under-10k CHF low estimate bonus round.
Deployant
Review: Horage Autark 10 Years Limited Edition
We review the Horage Autark 10 Years Limited Edition, a watch that was created to commemorate the tenth anniversary of the brand's first in-house movement.
Revolution
Master Your Dark Side: Junghans Meister Fein Automatic
A simple timepiece with date on a sunray brushed black dial? Yes, the Junghans Meister Fein Automatic is that.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco
A homage to famed Monaco “Dark Lord”, the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is unique for utilising carbon, or more specifically carbon composites, in almost every aspect of the watch – dial, case, and even the hairspring is carbon. Plus it has a specially finished movement that’s visible through the an extra-wide sapphire case back. Initial thoughts The vintage “Dark Lord” is all-black version of the Monaco that’s one of the most desirable of vintage Heuers. It was something of an experimental creation with only a few dozen were made, or perhaps even a hundred depending on the source. One of the first all-black watches, the “Dark Lord” had a powder-coated case like many early black-coated watches. Consequently, the “Dark Lord” case was fragile and few have survived in pristine condition, explaining its rarity and value, as well as why it’s the inspiration for the Carbon Monaco. A vintage “Dark Lord” ref. 740.303N The pleasing black, orange, and cream palette of the Carbon Monaco instantly evoke the “Dark Lord”. And at a distance, the Carbon Monaco even has something of a vintage flavour. But up close it is evidently a modern watch in both style and substance. Unlike the “Dark Lord”, the Carbon Monaco is fabricated from a material that’s naturally black, or at least a dark grey. The carbon composite case has an indelible finish, while also being extremely lightweight. The modern material, along with the geometrically open-worked ...
Quill & Pad
First Full Set Of Philippe Dufour Watches At Historical Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV: Grande Et Petite Sonnerie (Wristwatch And Pocket Watch), Duality, And Simplicity
In November 2021 collectors have the chance to see (and possibly buy) all four Philippe Dufour watches in one place, making Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIV what could well be the watch auction of the decade. Joshua Munchow takes a look at each of the four Philippe Dufour models on the block and examines why this is likely to leave its mark on the auction world for years to come.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”
Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021
The upcoming Only Watch auction is an impressive catalogue of 53 one-off timepieces, a good number of which – more than a quarter of the total – are chronographs. Among the dozen chronographs, a couple caught my eye. One is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021. It’s essentially an evolution of the Breguet Type 20 created for Only Watch 2019, simple in design and execution but attractive in that simplicity. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 Initial thoughts Like another notable chronograph in the sale, the TAG Heuer Monaco, the Type XX is reinterpretation of an iconic model of the brand. But the Type XX Only Watch 2021 is a nostalgic reinterpretation with a chocolate-brown dial that evokes the aged, “tropical” effect found on vintage examples. That said, the vintage styling is its only weakness. The Type XX is almost identical to the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 – right down to the strap – though the point can be made that the two make a perfect pair. The Type XX (left), and Type 20 They are each inspired by historical aviator’s watches made for the military and civilian markets respectively (the vintage Type XX was marketed to civilians, while the Type 20 was supplied to the French military). So this year’s Type XX should go home with the owner of the Type 20 from 2019. Almost a doppelgänger – the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Notably, the Type XX is powered by a vintage movement, though one that is from a later period from an actual vintage Type XX. Still, giv...
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A Path Less Taken: Six Underrated Watches Under (or Slightly Above) S$10,000 to Consider
The watch collecting universe is an interesting one these days. It appears as though there are more and more collectors around, and the supplies are not enough to feed the insatiable appetite from the crowd. In fact, we are aware that the waitlist for some watches can stretch over years. While those watches are definitelyRead More
Time+Tide
Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more
In many ways, dress watches have become an overlooked genre in the watch world. While manufactures haven’t forgotten them, we certainly don’t see the same hype surrounding the latest Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso release as we do for, say, a new Rolex sports watch. While that’s not to knock Rolex by any means (I’m guilty of … ContinuedThe post Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.