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Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom

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Is Rolex trend-chasing with its new colourful range of Oyster Perpetual models? A look back into the brand’s colourful past… Time+Tide
Rolex trend-chasing Sep 4, 2020

Is Rolex trend-chasing with its new colourful range of Oyster Perpetual models? A look back into the brand’s colourful past…

The wild profusion of colours in the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection caught many by surprise this week. And it immediately had people drawing parallels with the colour suites of other brands. It begs the question, are these new sporty and youthful lacquer dials – in candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green – a … ContinuedThe post Is Rolex trend-chasing with its new colourful range of Oyster Perpetual models? A look back into the brand’s colourful past… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko introduces the T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon Movement SJX Watches
Grand Seiko introduces Sep 4, 2020

Grand Seiko introduces the T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon Movement

A tourbillon is not uncharted waters for Seiko, as evidenced by the Credor Fugaku Tourbillon of 2016. The extremely rare, and modestly unattractive, Fugaku was something of a statement, as much about its ornate case and dial as the mechanics. Now an independent brand after being spun off from its parent, Grand Seiko has just announced a movement that squarely emphasises on timekeeping, the T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon. Announced as a concept movement – with no plans for commercialisation publicly revealed – the movement is Grand Seiko’s first equipped with a tourbillon, and also marks the first time Seiko or any of its brands is utilising a constant-force mechanism. The T0 disassembled Initial thoughts It is not often Grand Seiko launches a new and truly novel movement; this year has seen a few. The recent 9RA5 Spring Drive and the 9SA5 Hi-Beat automatic are interesting and practical movements that will be found in future models. On the other hand, the T0 tourbillon stakes a claim of technical prowess oriented rather than practicality, a claim bolstered by the remontoir constant-force mechanism integrated in the tourbillon cage. While Grand Seiko’s integrated remontoir constructed is patented, this is not exactly novel. Precedents in the watches of IWC and Andreas Strehler, for instance. While each of these executed the idea of an integrated constant force differently, all share the common approach of a one-second remontoir. In short, the Grand Seiko construc...

Glashütte Original are having a breakout 2020, this video celebrates our favourite models Time+Tide
Glashütte Original are having Sep 3, 2020

Glashütte Original are having a breakout 2020, this video celebrates our favourite models

Glashütte Original has had a year that few, if anyone, could have ever predicted. They have gone from eye-catching but niche Sixties Editions in lurid colours in 2019 and 2018 to what was declared by many that watched our video earlier in the year to be the best watch released at Virtual Basel – the … ContinuedThe post Glashütte Original are having a breakout 2020, this video celebrates our favourite models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko - Part 2 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Part 2 During my Sep 2, 2020

6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko - Part 2

During my visit to the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition, in my home town of New York City, I was fortunate to learn some lesser-known facts that have whet my appetite for the brand even more. Here is Part 2. If you missed Part 1, be sure to check it out here. 4. How the … ContinuedThe post 6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sinn Introduces the U1 DE SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Sep 1, 2020

Sinn Introduces the U1 DE

Sinn’s latest limited edition commemorates two events – one inextricably linked to the other. The overarching theme of the U1 DE is the 30th anniversary of the reunification of Germany, explaining the dial done in the colours of the German flag. Without German reunification, the second event would have been impossible – the partnership between Sinn and case maker SUG (short for Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH Glashütte), which is based in the watchmaking town of Glashütte in the former East Germany. Headquartered in Frankfurt, Sinn first began working with SUG in 1999, before taking a majority stake after the 2002 floods inundated Europe and hit SUG hard. Initial thoughts The U1 is a likeable watch because it is affordable, incredibly robust, and solidly functional. Though it is a large 44 mm, the U1 does not feel as big as it measures. Its only downside is the Sellita SW200-1 movement within, which suffers from a short 38-hour power reserve. The U1 DE isn’t that much different from the standard all-black U1. Essentially it’s a little different on the dial and hands, along with the extra-large Sinn and SUG logos on the back – which really look too big. Ordinarily, limited edition iterations of standard watches are not interesting. But the U1 is an excellent watch, and the U1 DE doesn’t cost that much more than the standard version; the premium is about 15%. That’s a fair deal for something that looks different, while still retaining the no-nonsense st...

Rolex Introduces the Submariner 41 mm SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Sep 1, 2020

Rolex Introduces the Submariner 41 mm

Rolex last did a major revamp for its iconic dive watch in 2012, when it introduced the ceramic insert bezel and beefier case. Eight years later the Submariner is once again refashioned and upgraded. It still retains the classic look that has changed little since the 1950s, but in typical Rolex style the new Submariner 41 mm boasts many incremental improvements, across the case, bracelet, and movement. The Submariner 41 mm is making its debut with eight different models, ranging from the no-date base model to the all-gold version, all powered by the cal. 3235 (except for the no-date that has the cal. 3230 inside). The Submariner ref. 124060 “no date” Initial thoughts The most monumental change – albeit one that is more obvious on paper than in person – is the upsized case. Forty-one millimetres is a first for the Submariner, with the preceding models having been being 40 mm for decades. However, the increase in size was not executed in isolation. The rest of the case was remodelled to fit, as was the bracelet, resulting in a pleasing, well-proportioned watch that doesn’t look as large as it sounds, and actually feels slimmer than it is. New movements Although everything about the new Submariner is new, arguably the most substantive change is the movement. The new models are the first Submariners to feature the current-generation cal. 3235 for the first time, although Rolex has been progressively installing new movements across the range for several years now. T...

We filmed behind-the-scenes at Geneva Watch Days to show you what a watch fair is like in 2020 (it’s as weird as the year itself) Time+Tide
Aug 31, 2020

We filmed behind-the-scenes at Geneva Watch Days to show you what a watch fair is like in 2020 (it’s as weird as the year itself)

As Georges Kern, Patrick Pruniaux, Jean-Christophe Babin and a dozen-or-so other watch CEOs stood on stage in a moment of solidarity to pose for a group photo, behind them a big Geneva Watch Days sign went largely unnoticed, obstructed from view by the hussy of wrist-displaying head hunchos. Some smiled, some straightened their ties and … ContinuedThe post We filmed behind-the-scenes at Geneva Watch Days to show you what a watch fair is like in 2020 (it’s as weird as the year itself) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Mitch Mason Chronicle Time+Tide
Aug 30, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Mitch Mason Chronicle

Vintage field watches can be a minefield, full of mechanical issues, aftermarket parts, or just a victim of horrendous overvaluing on the likes of eBay. All of this seems to go against their original ethos, which was to be legible, reliable and able to take a beating in the outside world. Of course, as watches … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Mitch Mason Chronicle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Watch That Changed My Life: The Jean Daniel Nicolas Two-Minute Tourbillon By Daniel Roth - Reprise Quill & Pad
Daniel Roth Reprise Many watches hold Aug 30, 2020

The Watch That Changed My Life: The Jean Daniel Nicolas Two-Minute Tourbillon By Daniel Roth - Reprise

Many watches hold a special significance for their owners. Some timekeepers may be a powerful emotional reminder of an esteemed person, place, or event. Others the long-searched-for keystone in a valued collection. There are watches that can change your mood and generate a smile just by thinking about them. There are even watches that have changed lives, and the Two-Minute Tourbillon by Jean Daniel Nicolas significantly changed Ian Skellern's life. Read how right here.

INTRODUCING: The breathtaking and brutally slim Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Aug 30, 2020

INTRODUCING: The breathtaking and brutally slim Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic

Let’s be honest, 2020 is not just a year of disastrous market decline, job losses and lockdowns. This year has also been one of rapid change and lateral thinking within the horological community. There have also been many heartening examples of the show going on, despite the uncertain backdrop. And with another stunning timepiece in … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The breathtaking and brutally slim Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Live video of 5 of the best watches from Geneva Watch Days, on the wrist Time+Tide
Aug 29, 2020

Live video of 5 of the best watches from Geneva Watch Days, on the wrist

Wow, so that was an experience I didn’t expect to have in 2020. A few days in Geneva, yes. But in August, with the sun out and zero time spent in Palexpo halls? Nonetheless, wherever there are new watch releases, Time+Tide is always on the ground. In no particular order, here are what I thought were … ContinuedThe post Live video of 5 of the best watches from Geneva Watch Days, on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Aug 27, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge

With its iconic complication being the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges – albeit one that is somewhat forgotten today – Girard-Perregaux has created a variety of simpler watches centred on the same concept of prominent movement bridges. The newly-launched Free Bridge is the latest to join the line up, and while it is superficially similar, it boasts an exotic silicon balance wheel (that was probably created with help from its sister company). Initial thoughts The Free Bridge has a modern, technical-looking aesthetic that is currently popular, but it is more than a faddish watch. That’s because it’s equipped with an intricate, extra-large balance wheel made of silicon, one that is far more advanced than everything else at this price point – with the exception of the Ulysse Nardin Freak X. Though not identical, the balance wheel is similar enough to the one in the Freak X that it becomes obvious the Free Bridge balance is derived from that in the Freak X, which is unsurprising since both watch brands are owned by luxury group Kering. The balance wheel makes the movement special from a technical perspective, and also makes the US$17,000 price tag easier to swallow. That said, the Free Bridge seems to sit in no man’s land – it is neither entirely classical nor modern, in contrast to the Freak X which is an out and out contemporary watch. As a result, the Free Bridge isn’t particularly outstanding visually, unlike the Freak X. Upgraded with a new balance The F...

Bernhard Lederer Debuts the Central Impulse Chronometer Prototype SJX Watches
Ming ly Aug 25, 2020

Bernhard Lederer Debuts the Central Impulse Chronometer Prototype

A member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since its founding in 1985, Bernhard Lederer is a veteran of independent watchmaking. Though known amongst collectors for having founded the brand BLU in 2002, Mr Lederer is more of a watchmaker’s watchmaker, supplying movements and complications via his company MHM (short for “Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie et Micromécanique”). Born in Germany but based in Switzerland for decades, Mr Lederer’s technical prowess is on full view with his latest creation – the Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC). Seemingly a mere three-hand wristwatch on the front, the CIC is a actually a significant accomplishment – and undoubtedly one of the most notable watches of 2020 from a technical perspective. The movement is equipped with a natural escapements as well as dual gear trains. The construction is familiar – Mr Lederer describes it as a tribute to the late George Daniels and his landmark Space Traveller pocket watch – but improved and refined with the addition a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism for each going train. Initial thoughts With seemingly everything already having been done in watchmaking, it is not often that we encounter a genuinely interesting – and improved – twist to an already uncommon escapement. Here Mr Lederer rejuvenates the centuries-old idea of the natural escapement, but elevated by the added complexity and performance gains of twin remontoir going tr...

The new Batman trailer just dropped and we wonder, will The Batman wear a Chanel J12? Time+Tide
Chanel J12? Aug 24, 2020

The new Batman trailer just dropped and we wonder, will The Batman wear a Chanel J12?

The trailer for The Batman just dropped, and anyone worried that it’s going to go all Twilight via Robert Pattinson should have their fears properly allayed. It’s as grim and gritty as ever, and the beatdown he puts on a henchmen in this short clip is nothing short of vicious. But while the trailer for The … ContinuedThe post The new Batman trailer just dropped and we wonder, will The Batman wear a Chanel J12? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be the best value titanium watch on the market Time+Tide
Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be Aug 23, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be the best value titanium watch on the market

Yes, it’s a very bold opening line. In fact, this is no boldr (sorry!) than a simple statement of the facts, should you sum up the parts, starting with a titanium watch with 200m water resistance for under $300 USD including shipping. Boldr Supply Co. is an established microbrand with five watch lines, and a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be the best value titanium watch on the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.