Hodinkee
Just Because: Why Is Citizen Called Citizen?
"The world is full of obvious things which nobody by any chance ever observes." Sherlock Holmes, The Hound Of The Baskervilles
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Hodinkee
"The world is full of obvious things which nobody by any chance ever observes." Sherlock Holmes, The Hound Of The Baskervilles
Hodinkee
The most complicated British watch ever made had dropped off the radar; could Daniel Miller find it?
SJX Watches
When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...
SJX Watches
Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...
Time+Tide
During the holiday break, the Time+Tide team caught a very interesting post in the r/Rolex thread on Reddit, where a user claimed he was offered a very intriguing trade opportunity from a dealer. The offer was a straight trade, watch for watch, with no cash involved. On the table was the chance to swap his … ContinuedThe post A dealer is offering to trade a black dial ceramic Rolex Daytona for a “Tiffany blue” Rolex OP – what would you do? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Hamilton Ventura was a truly revolutionary watch upon its release. While Richard Arbib’s extremely unique case shape turned heads, it wasn’t the Ventura’s true party piece. As the world’s first electric watch powered by a battery, it became an instant worldwide sensation. However, the Ventura’s true claim to fame comes as Elvis Presley’s companion … ContinuedThe post Three of our favourite Hamilton Ventura watches to celebrate Elvis’ birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The latest Grand Seiko U.S. editions express seasonality with haiku-like precision.
Quill & Pad
Enamel dials are not as uncommon as they once were, and brands need to do a little bit more to stand out. Jaeger-LeCoultre has no problem with that as the Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel features eye-catching blue enamel over a hand-guilloche dial. Martin Green looks at what else makes this model stand out.
Quill & Pad
Martin Green enjoys hiking to the Dutch beach in the winter. So when he borrowed a Tutima M2 Coastline Chronograph for a test he decided to put it through its paces at the coastline. The stormy conditions were challenging, but the M2 Coastline Chronograph proved its worth.
Quill & Pad
Never let it be said that there was a bandwagon that Ian Skellern didn’t jump on. It looks like it’s the season for everyone to be sharing their favorite watches of 2021 so here are his top ten horological highlights of the last 12 months.
Time+Tide
There is a reason why the collective love for vintage continues to grow in the watch community. The styles and designs of the past heavily influence what we see today. So for many, the allure of the original becomes much stronger than that of a modern reinterpretation. Beyond these elements, other factors can also be … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: Get your vintage vibes from @thefemalewatchcollector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Most famous for its jewelled timepieces and the Astronomia, Jacob & Co. specialises in over the top watches. One of its latest is the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. Inspired by the film of the same name, it’s a massive watch in the brand’s typical style of a sapphire cake dome containing a 758-component movement. While The Godfather branding on the dial is gaudy, the mechanics of the watch are surprisingly unusual and impressively complex. The Godfather repeater can chime the time with the minute repeating function and also play The Godfather theme on the miniature two-cylinder musical box within the case (see the video just below). That makes it a two-train grand complication at heart: one barrel and going train drives the triple-axis tourbillon and time display – which is linked to the repeating mechanism – while the second barrel and train power the music box. Initial thoughts Jacob & Co. specialises in loud watches, so everything has to be judged by that benchmark. The Twin Turbo Furious, for example, is one of the tamer complications the brand offers. The Godfather repeater fits right into that repertoire. It’s enormous – almost 50 mm wide and over 20 mm high – so it scores low on wearability. But it scores high on making a state on the wrist, in both aesthetics and function, which is unquestionably the point of the whole exercise. The button that activates the music box, with the slide for the repeater just below it That said, the large size is not...
Time+Tide
After a jam-packed calendar of novelty debuts and watch fairs, the holiday break was welcomed by the Time+Tide team. As watch lovers, not just labourers, we were, of course, still plugged into the community – ears to the ground and fingers on the pulse. But it was also a time to be with friends, family, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Goodbye 2021, hello 2022… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Back in 2020, Grand Seiko dropped two US Special Edition watches, marking the birth of the Sōkō Collection that takes its inspiration from the end of Autumn and the first frosts that usher in the Winter season. Both the debuting duo of Sōkō watches had vertically brushed dials that embodied how light passes through the bamboo … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Grand Seiko kicks off 2022 with icy blue dials, one of which is kira-zuri! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Casio G-SHOCK announced two new G-SQUAD Red Out series, which are the new colorways of the tough sports watches with smartphone connectivity.
Hodinkee
The Finnish watchmaker taps into his past to chart the future of a hidden gem.
Hodinkee
"We have met the enemy and he is us." -Walt Kelly, Pogo
Revolution
Looking for a watch that’s a bit different, a bit interesting? Of course, you are. Well, how about this: I’ll save you the effort of looking. Here are three hidden gems from Omega - and there isn’t a Speedmaster in sight
Hodinkee
In order to understand watches, I knew I had to understand Patek. So I went to Geneva for a tour of the brand's mothership museum. Lesson one: Don't show up late to a place that's all about timekeeping.
Deployant
Omega opens the year with a new Speedmaster Calibre 321, complete with vintage details and a beautiful design in 18K Canopus Gold.
SJX Watches
Just last year, IWC debuted its smallest Big Pilot’s Watch to date. Smaller, but not small, the latest Big Pilot is 43 mm, leaving it very much large and legible, but more wearable. The brand quickly followed up with the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire, which shares the same proportions but in new styles and materials. Two variants are available: titanium or bronze, but the standout is definitely the model in the lightweight metal. Initial thoughts The original Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is intrinsically appealing, being large enough to be an oversized aviator’s instrument, but small enough to sit relatively comfortable on wrist. That contrasts with the original Big Pilot, which is 46.5 mm in diameter. With the original version selling well, the addition of the Spitfire editions is natural. The aesthetic of Spitfire editions is clearly different from the that of the standard model in steel, which is good news for enthusiasts who want something more interesting. History fanatics, however, might frown at the dial design. Of the two Spitfire versions, the one in titanium stands out for its unusual, historically-inspired dial (though it’s not exactly historically accurate since IWC didn’t produce a B-uhr with such a dial; more on that below). And it also has an atypical case finish that mimics a worn, vintage case. On the other hand, the bronze version is identical to the steel model save for the bronze case and green dial – in fact it sticks to the same formula applied...
Revolution
Déborah Maldonado knows all about watches, having worked for IWC since 2012 and being the owner of a popular watch-related Instagram account. She shares her collecting story and her thoughts on how watch brands can broaden their appeal to women.
Time+Tide
At this precise moment in time – with apologies to Messrs Lewandowski, Messi, Mbappe et al – Mo Salah is arguably the best football player in the world. The Liverpool forward is a truly astonishing player, who routinely bamboozles defences with his jinking brilliance, acceleration and technical skill. Despite being slightly built at just 5’9, … ContinuedThe post Liverpool’s Mo Salah shows his wristwear is as dazzling as his football with his Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The results of our poll are in! Here are your favorite stories from last year.
Deployant
2021 has come and gone. Here is the year in review of the top 10 popular posts. With some ramblings of the industry and what you want to see from us.
Deployant
Wishing you a very happy and prosperous new year! May 2022 bring us blessings of great joy, and of course freedom to travel and enjoy the watches.
Time+Tide
In the future, I’ll look back at 2021 as the year that changed everything for me. At it’s beginning, an ending like this would have been a foolish dream. I would have never seen myself writing about this crazy passion of mine; let alone for a company 10,000 miles away. But through the power of … ContinuedThe post Ricardo’s top five watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Every year people working in the watch industry pass away, and brands come and go. Here Elizabeth Doerr highlights a special few of the people we lost in 2021.
Time+Tide
Ok, so maybe having two top 5 lists instead of a single top 10 is cheating a little bit, but each of these watches deserves an equal share of the limelight. In the previous list, the brands were playing it quite safe. Everyone loves a good Casio, and Baltic’s looks are universally loved, but what … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Top 5 Watches of 2021 Under $1000 (Part 2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In the first installment of her new monthly column, Cara Barrett says it's time to retire our outdated gender norms.
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