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Opinion: the Moser x Studio Underd0g Collab Was Great – the Reaction from the Watch Community Was Disappointing Worn & Wound
H. Moser Sep 9, 2024

Opinion: the Moser x Studio Underd0g Collab Was Great – the Reaction from the Watch Community Was Disappointing

Without fail, there’s a moment at big industry events when you realize you’re in a bubble. At every Watches & Wonders I’ve attended, and now following my first Geneva Watch Days, there’s been a new release that has “worked” in the room among the press and other members of the community who have actually seen it, but has been less warmly received (in certain quarters) by those back home. I felt this acutely when looking at the latest from H. Moser, a collaboration with Studio Underd0g that, when I saw the press release ahead of leaving for Switzerland, I was certain would be the enthusiast community’s favorite walking away. And while I think overall you’d have to admit the watch was widely praised from all sides, there was a surprising chorus of supposed Studio Underd0g fans who didn’t take to it as kindly.  When I was pointed toward heated Instagram comment threads by friends and colleagues days after seeing the watches I was genuinely surprised. When you’re at an event like this, you’re really kind of on your own little watch industry planet. I find that there’s simply not enough time to monitor reactions to everything with a busy meeting schedule and almost no down time. It’s kind of nice, honestly, to be consumed by a single thing for a short period of time. It has a cleansing effect. But it means I’m not idly scrolling through Instagram, so the peanut gallery commentary on all the new releases was lost on me.  To summarize, the reactions i...

IFL Watches Introduces The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Time Is Money Concept Limited Edition Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Time Sep 9, 2024

IFL Watches Introduces The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Time Is Money Concept Limited Edition

We have all heard the phrase “time is money,” but what if you could make it come to life visually? Leave it to the team at IFL Watches to put a fun spin on that. For its newest release, the Stockholm-based brand whimsically embodied the concept using the dial of a Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic. It’s […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Time Is Money Concept Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The Return Of The Sinn 156 With The New 156.1 And 156.1 E Fratello
Sinn 156 Sep 9, 2024

Introducing: The Return Of The Sinn 156 With The New 156.1 And 156.1 E

Have a quick look at the images in this article. Isn’t the 156 just the archetypal Sinn watch? Well…no, it’s actually not. This model is an adaptation and evolution of Bundeswehr-issued pilot’s watches from other brands. However, you can leave it to the good people at Sinn to take a good thing and make it […] Visit Introducing: The Return Of The Sinn 156 With The New 156.1 And 156.1 E to read the full article.

The Golden Age of Rolex Movements Part II: Rolex gets Complicated with Innovations and Patent Registrations Quill & Pad
Rolex Movements Part II Rolex Sep 7, 2024

The Golden Age of Rolex Movements Part II: Rolex gets Complicated with Innovations and Patent Registrations

From the public’s perspective, Rolex’s surge into its movement revolution began with the now anachronistic-sounding Basel 2000 World Watch, Clock, and Jewelry Show. But the evidence of a long-term engineering campaign was mounting at the patent office and in the dealers’ showrooms as this article by Tim Mosso highlights.

eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Speedy, a Gorgeous Girard-Perregaux, and an Uncommon Longines in Great Condition Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Sep 6, 2024

eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Speedy, a Gorgeous Girard-Perregaux, and an Uncommon Longines in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Girard Perregaux Minimalist Automatic First up this week is this sweet vintage Girard Perregaux dress watch. Like the seller says, it looks to be New Old Stock, complete with the original sticker on the back as well as the original hang tag. The case is 35mm wide, not including the crown, which appears to be signed with the GP logo. The case looks like steel, but the hang tag says steel and chrome, so I’m guessing the back is steel and the case is chrome plated. That said, it’s in perfect shape with no visible pitting. The silver dial has a nice vertical brushed finish with applied gold markers and gold hands, and a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. Seller states the watch runs well. Great looking and understated dress watch.  View auction here Vintage Rado Las Palmas  Here is a really cool looking vintage Rado Las Palmas. Rado has made a lot of great models, and I’ve never seen or even heard of the Las Palmas. The steel case has a solid, 1970’s look, with a polished finish. The silver dial also screams 70’s, with the vertical brushed finish and large, applied steel markers. Of course, the dial also has the Rado spinning anchor logo at 12 o’clock. The caseback has a deeply ...

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition Worn & Wound
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Sep 6, 2024

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

Moving from meeting to meeting at Geneva Watch Days, it’s easy to get lost in the opulent, luxurious novelties. But when you meet with Armin Strom, you’re brought back to a kind of pure watch nerdery that transcends the luxurious surroundings of shows like this. Armin Strom, even while producing watches that I think are objectively great looking, is all about mechanical innovation. There isn’t a watch in their collection that doesn’t have a novel mechanical trick up its sleeve. The Gravity Equal Force that Zach looked at recently is a great example. It has all the aesthetic and design trappings of what we think of as today’s modern high end indie watchmaking, but the real appeal lies in the watchmaking itself. It’s an important distinction that most enthusiasts understand intrinsically – some watches and brands just have a laser focus on engineering, and that’s sort of what sets Armin Strom apart.  The brand’s big Geneva Watch Days release is, simply put, a showstopper, and perhaps the most fascinating watch of the week. It’s certainly a significant horological accomplishment. The Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition takes Armin Strom’s already unique take on the resonance concept and shrinks it down to an almost impossible to believe size in a watch that takes a completely novel approach to timekeeping and provides a great deal of practical functionality to make it downright approachable. It also just happens to be a stunning piece of horological a...

Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Lorca Sep 6, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at five gentlemen’s GMT watches that stand out because of their distinguished presence. These aren’t your typical Rolex GMT-Master-influenced timepieces. No, this is a list of the more classical-looking GMTs, multi-time-zone/traveler’s watches that fly a little more under the radar. So don’t expect any colorful rotating bezels […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More to read the full article.

First Look – The Biver Automatique, The Brand’s Vision of a Classic 3-hand Watch Monochrome
Sep 6, 2024

First Look – The Biver Automatique, The Brand’s Vision of a Classic 3-hand Watch

After retiring from his executive role at LVMH, industry veteran Jean-Claude Biver embarked on a new venture, creating a family-owned brand with his son Pierre – with a much-anticipated and commented launch in 2023, specifically given Biver’s aura. The Bivers’ vision to focus on high-end, high-grade, limited-production timepieces first took shape with the Biver Carillon […]

A Perfect Sequel - The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up Fratello
Sep 6, 2024

A Perfect Sequel - The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up

Our schedules were full at Geneva Watch Days 2024, but one of the most anticipated sessions was a late-afternoon meeting with Biver. We knew the young brand had a secret new release on the way, but details were scarce. The team, including Pierre Biver, showed us the new Biver Automatique line comprised of four references. […] Visit A Perfect Sequel - The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Gets Extreme Sep 5, 2024

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras

If you’d told me eighteen months ago that the TAG Heuer Carrera would, in very short order, find itself once again at the center of enthusiast interest, there’s a very good chance I’d have laughed you out of the room. And yet, here we sit, 17 months on from the release of the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ and there can be no doubt - thanks in part to an expanded lineup of compelling variants of the 39mm chronograph, as well as exciting interpretations like the widely discussed and sought after Seafarer LE for HODINKEE - that TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph is one of the hottest watches on the market. But the Glassbox is only one side of the Carrera story. Now, TAG Heuer is leaning into the other side with the unveiling of a new technical chronograph. Where the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ looks to the history of the Carrera, the new Carrera Extreme Sport - introduced as a collection of six watches spread across two models: the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport and the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport - present a vision of the future and a bold one at that. The two new models share a lot in common, most notably a shared aesthetic and case design. Both the Chronograph Extreme Sport and the Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport measure 44mm across, 15.1mm thick, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug. Certainly not small, but also decidedly wearable for a chronograph meant to wear large. The lug-to-lug measure, in particular, is deceptively compact and shou...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Sep 5, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport

After having expanded the line-up of its bestselling, vintage-inspired Carrera “Glassbox”, TAG Heuer now turns to something modern, the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport. Though it shares the Carrera moniker and TH20 movement, the new Extreme Sport chronograph is nothing like is retro counterpart. Available in titanium or 18k rose gold, the Carrera Extreme Sport is a big, bold chronograph with a skeletonised dial and integrated rubber strap. And at the top of the new collection is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, which is the most modern take on TAG Heuer’s affordable double complication of chronograph plus flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer’s offerings are now mostly either vintage-inspired and hyper-modern. The Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport definitely falls into the latter category. The open-worked dial is surprisingly intricate, with the X-shaped latticework finished with a combination of colour-treated frosted recesses and straight graining. With a skeletonised dial and chunky case, the Chronograph Extreme Sport feels similar to other watches in this segment, though the case is distinctive as the Carrera design. For anyone who feels TAG Heuer’s vintage-inspired watches are too traditional, this has the same in-house movement but presented in contemporary package. Like most watches of this style, the Chronograph Extreme Sport has an integrated rubber strap for a seamless clean profile, but never really fits as well as a convent...

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Progress Report Updates Sep 4, 2024

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau

Earlier this spring, when the Worn & Wound team was in Switzerland for Watches & Wonders, we had a somewhat impromptu meeting with the Holthinrichs team at a very pleasant but nondescript Geneva coffee shop, somewhat off the beaten path of watch fair hysteria that grips the city during show season. It was there that we got our first look at the Signature Collection, a major shift in strategy for the brand, now planning to offer watches with a familiarly intricate case design but at a much lower price point than previous collections, thanks to new manufacturing partnerships and a retreat from 3D printing, a process that simply became to expensive as the brand’s designs became more complex. Founder Michiel Holthinrichs also told us about an ambitious new project during this meeting, the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that sits squarely in the haute horlogerie space. At that last meeting, Michiel only had renders of the Ornament Nouveau to show us on his phone, and some crude 3D printed prototype cases (in plastic) of the Signature Collection. Just a few months later, I sat down with Michiel and his team once again, at that same coffee shop, and was able to lay my hands on real watches that were every bit as impressive as I had hoped they’d be. It was a particular treat to see the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that the team is immensely proud of.  A quick caveat – we’re still dealing with prototypes here in the case of the Signature Collection pieces. The team had hoped to be...

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green Fratello
Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta Sep 4, 2024

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green

We were all quite excited here at Fratello when Longines announced a new 39mm version of the Legend Diver last November. Not only did we love the new dimensions, but the omittance of the date was also met with applause here. With a denim-like blue and a black version on offer, something told us more […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green to read the full article.

The New Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Glowing Blocks of Globolight Center Stage Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Sep 3, 2024

The New Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Glowing Blocks of Globolight Center Stage

The upward trajectory of Christopher Ward in the eyes of enthusiasts and collectors has been well documented over the last few years. The Bel Canto, of course, completely changed the game for the brand, and was an announcement to the broader watchmaking community of something ardent supporters have known for quite some time: that the team at Christopher Ward is capable of real outside-the-box thinking, and has an ambition to tweak expectations far beyond that of most brands in their price range. They have periodically introduced watches since that in one way or another qualify as what you might call “statement pieces,” or watches that seem to exist for the purpose of shifting the community’s expectations around the brand. The Twelve X, introduced earlier this year, is a perfect example, and I’d also point you toward a personal favorite of mine, the C1 Moonphase, which works as an art piece the same was some of the watches created by my favorite high end independents. Their latest offering, at least on the surface, is perhaps not as paradigm shifting as any of the watches mentioned previously, but it’s still generating an awful lot of chatter online for a series of dramatic improvements to just about every feature of a core offering from Christopher Ward: the dive watch.  The Trident collection, Christopher Ward’s dive watch range, is now in its 15th year, and the new C60 Trident Lumière is described by the brand as the pinnacle of the series to date. There ar...

The Breathtaking Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Sep 2, 2024

The Breathtaking Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey

One of the things I will absolutely never tire of when it comes to attending watch shows like Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days is the opportunity to handle watches that would be simply impossible to view at any other time. These events are important for networking purposes and to see and learn about new releases from mass market brands as early as possible so we can share them with our readers, but let’s be honest: even the “rare” watches from brands that are part of the big luxury groups are relatively easy to see if you’re in New York City and connected to the watch media or collector world. But there are some watches that when they’re brought out, you understand immediately that you’re probably getting your one, last look. That’s the impression I got at my Girard-Perregaux meeting when they showed me the La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey.  I saw lots of cool stuff over three very busy and sweaty days taking meetings in the Beau Rivage and other hotels that lack American style air conditioning during Geneva Watch Days, but if you asked me to narrow things down and pick just one watch that is simply the most beautiful object I saw during my time there, the Esmerelda gets my vote. Beauty, as we know, is in the eye of the beholder, so I won’t speak in absolute terms here. It would be perfectly reasonable to prefer the Garrick S3 or the Armin Strom Dual Time Resonance, or virtually any number of other great watches. But the Esmerelda ...

Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch! Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Just Released Sep 2, 2024

Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch!

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko announced the new 9SA4 caliber and the first two watches featuring it, the SLGW002 and SLGW003. As a refresher, the 9SA4 is a manual hi-beat (36,000 bph), 80-hour, time-only caliber featuring their in-house dual-impulse escapement, first seen in the 9SA5. With a power reserve on the back of the movement, beautiful bridge designs and finishing, and a unique “wagtail-bird-shaped” winding click, it set a new bar for Grand Seiko’s mechanical calibers. But, perhaps just as exciting as the movement itself was that the watches featuring it were sized at an idyllic 38.6mm diameter and 9.95mm thickness with a 20mm lug, addressing the naysayer’s concerns around Grand Seiko’s sizing. While a pair of fantastic releases, since introduction, we have been wondering where we will see this movement next. Well, we just got our answer, and I have to tell you, I’m equally surprised and delighted. They went vintage rather than with the new case and a different dial, which would have been most expected. Yes, they decided to bring back, as a limited edition, of course, a “recreation” of the 45GS from 1968. A little history, the 45GS came out a year after the 44GS and featured the same case design, but differed in that it featured the brand’s first hi-beat manual wound movement, the 4520. The SLGW005 – the return of the 45GS The 44/45GS case defines the Grand Seiko “Grammar of Design” as set out by Taro Tanaka, with flat, Zaratsu poli...

Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347 Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGA025 Sep 2, 2024

Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347

Don’t you love how the designers at Grand Seiko keep using Japanese natural phenomena and settings as inspiration? Of course, I’m not a fan of all Grand Seiko watches, but I enjoy reading through the press releases and looking up the places and things from which the dial colors and textures are derived. It’s like […] Visit Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347 to read the full article.

Introducing – Alpina Introduces the More Compact & Openworked Alpiner Extreme Skeleton Automatic Monochrome
Alpina Introduces Sep 1, 2024

Introducing – Alpina Introduces the More Compact & Openworked Alpiner Extreme Skeleton Automatic

With Geneva Watch Days in full swing, Alpina unveils two skeletonised versions of its Alpiner Extreme Automatic. Positioned as the most robust, action and adventure-oriented collection at Alpina, the Alpiner Extreme Automatic strips down and reduces the size of its time-and-date model with two models: one with a sleek monochromatic look and the other in […]

Monet’s Venice in Miniature Enamel by Jaeger-LeCoultre SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Ahead Sep 1, 2024

Monet’s Venice in Miniature Enamel by Jaeger-LeCoultre

Ahead of this month’s Homo Faber Biennial exhibition in Venice, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Monet,” a collection of three watches, limited to 10 pieces each, adorned with miniature enamel reproductions of Claude Monet’s iconic Venice series of paintings. Each enamel painting is composed of 14 layers of enamel, including seven layers of translucent fondant glaze, each requiring its own firing at up to 800 degrees celsius. Initial thoughts Painted enamel case backs are nothing new for the Reverso, a watch that, given its hinged case, is uniquely suited to such decoration. That said, they are a joy to behold due to the skill of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house enamel artists. In this case, I also happen to personally appreciate the chosen subject matter; I find Monet’s Venice series deeply moving. While the case backs are the star attraction, the dials are decorated with hand guilloche, with a different pattern and colour for each piece. The ‘Grand Canal,’ for example, is paired with a guilloche pattern inspired by the ripples of the canal as depicted by Monet, and finished in translucent green enamel. ‘The Doges’ Palace’ features a modified basket weave pattern, while the ‘San Giorgio Maggiore’ features a herringbone pattern. Priced at €100,000, the Reverso Tribute Monet for collectors who value the rarity of this type of hand craftsmanship and artisanship. Like other forms of art, there’s an element of patronage that goes...

H. Moser & Cie. And Studio Underd0g Unveil The Fruits Of Their Shared Passion Project Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Aug 31, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. And Studio Underd0g Unveil The Fruits Of Their Shared Passion Project

Have you ever seen or heard something and said to yourself, “Why didn’t I think of that?” That’s exactly what I did when I saw the press release for this collaboration between H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g. At first glance, these brands couldn’t be any more different. The first makes high-end watches, often […] Visit H. Moser & Cie. And Studio Underd0g Unveil The Fruits Of Their Shared Passion Project to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Celebrates a Big Spring Drive Anniversary with a Pair of Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Celebrates Aug 30, 2024

Grand Seiko Celebrates a Big Spring Drive Anniversary with a Pair of Limited Editions

How long would it take you to invent an entirely new kind of watch movement? Five years? Ten years? If your answer was 27 years, you’d be on the right track. That’s how long it took the Spring Drive movement to go from idea to reality at Seiko. Initially conceived of by Yoshikazu Akahane in the 1970s, the development of the Spring Drive movement grew out of efforts to solve problems endemic to early quartz movements, though the project would not bear fruit until Baselworld 1999 when the first trio of Spring Drive watches was released to the public (something Akahane would, tragically, not live to see). Five years later, Spring Drive would finally reach Grand Seiko with the introduction of the 9R series of movements in 2004. 20 years later, the 9R series of Spring Drive calibers remain a core pillar of the Grand Seiko catalog, and GS is ready to celebrate that anniversary with the introduction of two profoundly autumnal limited editions. Each of these limited releases is powered by a Grand Seiko 9R series movement and each is inspired by the fiery red tones found throughout the Hotaka mountain range come fall. First up, we have the SBGY035, driven by a hand-wound Caliber 9R31 Spring Drive movement. Similar in execution and design to the popular SBGY007 Omiwatari, this thin dress watch claims inspiration from the vibrant leaves that coat the landscape of Hotaka each fall. An ombré finish made up of deep red tones is paired with a textured dial, and is accented by sparin...

[VIDEO] Recapping the Worn & Wound Meetup Celebrating the Launch of the Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition Worn & Wound
Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Aug 29, 2024

[VIDEO] Recapping the Worn & Wound Meetup Celebrating the Launch of the Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition

Worn & Wound was honored to be chosen by Tissot to be the launch party partner for the global release of their latest fun and unique special edition! Scores of Worn & Wound readers and watch enthusiasts gathered at Tissot’s 5th Ave boutique in NYC to celebrate two worlds converge to create something extraordinary, a collaboration that bridges generations, celebrates legacy, and embraces the spirit of creativity and innovation. It was our pleasure to introduce-the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition. Please enjoy this video capturing this epic affair! In the late 1970s, the world witnessed the rise of two legends. On one hand, we had the Tissot PRX, a watch that quickly became a symbol of Swiss precision and timeless design. On the other, we had UFO Robot Grendizer, a heroic figure from the vibrant universe of manga and anime, capturing the imagination of audiences across the globe. Both were icons of their era, and today, they are reborn in a collaboration that not only honors their past but also invites a new generation to discover their enduring appeal.   This special edition watch is more than just a timepiece; it’s a fusion of Swiss craftsmanship and Japanese pop culture. It combines 70s design with modern technology, featuring a 40mm stainless steel case, a vibrant blue dial inspired by Grendizer, and a yellow Super-LumiNova® bust of the robot hero. Every detail, from the Harken-style second hand to the engraved rotor, nods to the iconic anime, blending no...

The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn

Well, it wouldn’t be Geneva Watch Days without some wild new release from Massena LAB. Last year, the well-known design house partnered with Sylvain Pinaud to offer up a take on Pinaud’s modern marvel of a chronograph. This year, they’re looking back, joining with a brand new independent watchmaker making their debut at Geneva Watch Days, Albishorn, to give us something a little different. Albishorn, as I said, is a brand new indie brand with a unique focus - creating what they call “imaginary vintage” watches that bend watchmaking history to create something a little different. Their inaugural release, produced in partnership with Massena LAB, imagines a hypothetical late 1930s regatta chronograph (or regatta timer if you prefer), inspired by Le Bol d’Or Mirabaud - the world’s largest inland lake regatta, first run in 1939 on Lac Léman. A quick glance at the new Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph will leave vintage heads with a clear sense of origin. The new watch clearly pulls design language from Rolex’s iconic Zerographe chronographs, the early predecessor to now iconic watches like the Daytona. The watch’s dial layout is also reminiscent of World War II multi-scale chronographs, and the mono-pusher layout certainly invokes a vintage charm. Obviously, this is not a genuine vintage watch, and certain details of the Maxigraph betray that. The execution feels quite modern, with sharply machined elements like the stark red pusher on the case flank, mu...

Oris Celebrates Geneva Watch Days with Two New Releases: an Updated Aquis Chronograph and a Limited Edition Divers Sixty-Five Worn & Wound
Oris Celebrates Geneva Watch Days Aug 29, 2024

Oris Celebrates Geneva Watch Days with Two New Releases: an Updated Aquis Chronograph and a Limited Edition Divers Sixty-Five

It’s been an undeniably good year for watches over at Oris. Whether your tastes skew toward the Aquis or the Divers Sixty-Five, there have been plenty of wonderful new additions to the Oris catalog in 2024, from the all-new Aquis introduced at Watches and Wonders to the slew of exciting LEs that have punctuated the year. For Geneva Watch Days, Oris is continuing the trend, marking Geneva’s second biggest week in watches with not only a new Divers Sixty-Five LE but a brand new generation of Aquis Chronograph as well. Since its introduction in 2015, the Divers Sixty-Five has been a clear hit for Oris. It’s one of those watches you actually see in the real world, and the versatile model has been the platform for some of the brand’s most popular and sought-after collaborations and limited editions. This summer alone has seen three wildly different interpretations of the Divers Sixty-Five hit the market, each with its own distinct appeal. This latest addition to the lineup sees Oris collaborating with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP), along with LFP’s charity partner CNAPE (the National Convention of Child Protection Associations). Inspired by CNAPE’s mission, this 1,000-piece LE is replete with small details highlighting the partnership. Standouts here include the deep blue dial and the distinct font used for all the dial text, which is inspired by a child’s handwriting - a choice augmented by the rainbow of color used to spell out “water resi...

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph SJX Watches
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph

Amongst the brands making their debut this summer is Albishorn, which has teamed up with Massena LAB for the Maxigraph, a vintage-inspired regatta timer with a proprietary movement. The Maxigraph is the first watch from Albishorn, a new brand founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet. A lawyer by training, Dr Chaulmontet pivoted to build a career in the watch industry, designing movements at La Joux-Perret and most recently, Sellita. Initial thoughts The Maxigraph is an impressive debut from Dr Chaulmontet. Though arguably similar in concept to other Massena LAB projects, the Maxigraph feels more original since it’s not anchored to any particular historical brand. The bright red chronograph pusher at nine o’clock, for example, is not something you’d see in a vintage catalogue. The polychromatic sector dial and bi-directional rotating bezel are attractive and legible, while the semi-circular countdown register and running indicator add a pleasing degree of asymmetry to the design. The asymmetry continues at night, with an unusual pattern and the use of both green and blue Super-LumiNova for the hour and minute hands, respectively. One of the most appealing characteristics of the Maxigraph is its case, which calls to mind oversized tool watches like the Longines ref. 5824 military chronograph. But unlike that 47 mm beast, the Maxigraph is a manageable 41 mm at the bezel (sloping inwards to just 39 mm at the case middle). The case thickness of 13 mm is typical for this type o...