Hodinkee
Interview: Cyrille Vigneron, Cartier CEO, On Keeping A 175-Year-Old Company Nimble
Coping with COVID, firsthand experiences, and expecting the unexpected.
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Hidden Gem Watches
Watches that either didn't get the attention they deserved or are primed for a second look.
Time+Tide
A funky take on serious watchmaking with new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models
Named after Czapek’s third boutique – as it was the third collection released by the brand – the Czapek and Cie Faubourg de Cracovie is the company’s take on an integrated chronograph. It follows the brand ethos of intricately finished dials in vivid colours, and the Purple Panda and California Blue models we look at … ContinuedThe post A funky take on serious watchmaking with new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful
Rarely has the term sports watch been as appropriate as when applied to the BR 03-94 Multimeter from Bell & Ross. This nifty chronograph displays five different scales on the dial to measure various things. In that sense, it is a modern-day version of the vintage chronographs with “snail scales” that did the same, though not in such an elaborate way.
Deployant
Quick Takes: new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep O-MEGASTEEL
We take a closer look at the latest dive watch from Omega - the Seamaster Ultra Deep in O-MEGASTEEL in this episode of Quick Takes.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Patek Philippe and Rolex at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction
Sotheby’s is kicking off the spring season of the year’s watch auctions with two consecutive sales in Hong Kong that take place in a week’s time. The first is an evening sale of a single-owner collection of exceptional vintage Patek Philippe watches. And it will be followed by Important Watches I, which includes several good examples of independent watchmaking. Though the single-owner sale has most of the significant vintage Patek Philippe watches offered by Sotheby’s, it doesn’t encompass all of them. One of the major lots is a Patek Philippe ref. 2524 minute repeating wristwatch. We take a look at that along with several other highlights from Important Watches I, both vintage and modern, including an arguably underrated complicated (and bejewelled) watch for men by Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;). Important Watches I starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The VC&A; Midnight Poetic Wish Lot 2144: Rolex Daytona ref. 16523 “Floating” signed “Tiffany & Co.” The most desirable Rolex Daytonas are typically steel, with the two-tone versions often being the most affordable, perhaps because the two-tone look is generally less sought after regardless of brand. But this steel-and-gold ref. 16523 is notable enough that it was included in Daytona Perpetual, the reference tome covering many rare and unusual variants of the model published by Italian Rolex specialist Pucci Papaleo. The key fe...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nothing like a good ol’ impromptu watch meetup
Hey there. It’s Ricardo again with another Friday Wind Down takeover. It was only a matter of time before I would be back for Zach and this week, provided the perfect opportunity to steal the reins. This past Monday, I met up with some #watchfam for a last minute dinner hosted by Derek (@theminutemon) for … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nothing like a good ol’ impromptu watch meetup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox Timer in pink gold
Jaeger-LeCoultre extends the Memovox Timer line with a new aesthetic interpretation of this practical complicattion watch, now in pink gold.
Time+Tide
William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better?
START YOUR ENGINES: In 2018, we had a little dalliance with the brand that used to inhabit our HQ space, and now lives next door: Royal Enfield. Basically, we had a few beers one afternoon and found some matte-black, lightly modded common ground between watches and vintage-inspired bikes. The result: a Time+Tide motorcycle, later raffled off … ContinuedThe post William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: Talking Bracelets
The first thing you notice, the last thing you think about.
Time+Tide
F1 driver Charles Leclerc robbed of $430k Richard Mille in throng of fans
RICHARD MELEE: Richard Mille is indisputably one of the most sought-after brands in the sporting wold, with superstar athletes across a huge range of disciplines wearing and promoting them. Unfortunately for such athletes, a Richard Mille is also highly sought-after by thieves, given that their value is more often than not in the hundreds of … ContinuedThe post F1 driver Charles Leclerc robbed of $430k Richard Mille in throng of fans appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Boxer Amir Khan robbed at gun point for £72,000 Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph
Amir Khan has become the latest celebrity victim of watch crime after the British boxer was robbed at gun-point in London last night. The former world champion posted on Twitter that he and his wife, Faryal Makhdoom, were recovering after being confronted by two men in East London with his diamond-encrusted Franck Muller snatched in the robbery. … ContinuedThe post Boxer Amir Khan robbed at gun point for £72,000 Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction
Sotheby’s forthcoming Important Watches I in Hong Kong is the first live auction of the year by a major auction house, or so accurately it’s the second day of the auction, with the sale of a mega, single-owner Patek Philippe collection happening in the evening the day before. With the strong demand for independent watchmaking, the 214-lots sale encompasses timepieces from a range of niche and not-so-niche indies. The lineup is naturally led by F.P. Journe, perhaps the marquee name in independent watchmaking today, but the most valuable lot is the very rare and very expensive Montre École, one of 11 watches born of the Naissance d’une Montre project backed by Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour. We round up six highlights from amongst the independent watchmakers at the sale, which starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Montre École no. 09/11 Lot 2127: H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Having been business partners for a decade or so – Moser’s sister company supplies hairsprings to MB&F; – the two brands revealed their first collaboration in 2020 when both coincidentally celebrated their 15th anniversary. The more complicated of the two anniversary editions, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon was more Moser than MB&F; with its dial colour and movement, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. The Cylindrical Tourbillon combines the best of both brands. The aesthe...
Time+Tide
Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space
Fortis is no stranger to outer space. The 1962 Spacematic presented to Gemini astronauts paved the way for Fortis’ space-dwelling endeavours, before partnering cosmonaut expeditions between 1992 and 2003 and achieving the ultimate goal of sending a watch into space. Now, some three decades later, Fortis launch an in-house chronograph movement, the WERK 17, both … ContinuedThe post Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: Aiôn Attempts to Reestablish French Watchmaking
Just as the biggest watch fair of the year opened its doors in Switzerland earlier in April, an industrial-scale watchmaking enterprise was born in France. Conceived as a vertically-integrated watchmaking group that makes movements for its own brands Aiôn Group, wants to establish “Made in France” as a key segment in a luxury-watch arena that’s dominated by Swiss, German, and Japanese players. Backed by government funding, Aiôn has the ambitious goal of producing 400,000 movements per year by 2025 in its new manufacture on the Mediterranean coast near Marseille. Although Aiôn has kept mum about the origins of its industrial capability, it is well known within the Swiss watch industry that the French group took over Swiss movement maker Felsa-Leschot, which was then moved lock, stock, and barrel to France. [Update April 20, 2022: Respected Swiss newspaper Le Temps published an article expressing scepticism about Aiôn, especially about the movement “factory” that Aiôn acquired. The article references the factory owner’s chequered history and involvement in multiple lawsuits. We believe the doubts expressed by the writer at Le Temps are well founded and would encourage everyone to read the article of March 16.] A Swiss foundation One of Aiôn’s founders is Anthony Simao, a French watchmaker who started his career in Swiss watchmaking, having worked at Breitling, Audemars Piguet, and Chronode. He then founded French watch brand Lornet, which has been merge...
Quill & Pad
A Moment In Watch History: Piaget x François-Paul Journe – Reprise
In 1995 Piaget, who was then part of the Vendôme group that would later become Richemont, entered the highest segment of the watch market by releasing a grande sonnerie wristwatch developed by François-Paul Journe. At the time, Journe was a freelance movement designer and hadn’t officially founded F.P. Journe yet.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #7 “Watches & Wonders 2022”
Welcome back to the Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword! We took a small break to focus on Watches & Wonders coverage, but, to refresh your memory, each week we post a new crossword for you to solve with clues that revolve around a particular watch-focused theme. Knowing that most of you come to the site each … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #7 “Watches & Wonders 2022” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Quick takes: new IWC IW389105 Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition “Lake Tahoe”
We take a quick look at the recently released IWC IW389105 Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition “Lake Tahoe”, with live photographs.
SJX Watches
Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater
Taking place every two years in Venice, Homo Faber is an exhibition dedicated to craftsmanship of all forms, ranging from glass to porcelain to fabric. Because its organiser is the Michelangelo Foundation established by Johann Rupert, the plain-speaking chairman of Richemont, several of the Swiss group’s watchmakers are taking part. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is presenting a pair of one-off striking watches at Homo Faber – the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeaters Ultra-Thin “Thunder God” and “Wind God”. The watches each recreate one half of Wind God and Thunder God, a pair of folding screens made by 16th century Japanese painter Tawaraya Sōtatsu that depicts the titular gods of Japanese mythology. Initial thoughts Owned by a temple in Kyoto, the folding screen is a National Treasure of Japan, a cultural object deemed so important by the Japanese government that it cannot be exported. The screen is certainly a worthy subject for a high-quality miniature, and Vacheron Constantin appears to have done justice to it. The dial decoration is perfect for a repeater, since the brand’s cal. 1731 minute repeater movement is relatively large, resulting in an expansive dial that is usually blank. It’s an ideal canvas for artisanal decoration. Vacheron Constantin’s enamel work, whether in house or done by independent artisans like Anita Porchet, is usually impeccable. The repeater dials definitely look the part. In fact, the miniatures of the gods are im...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: HSNY awards $100K in scholarships to watchmaking students and institutions at their annual gala
One of the biggest fears or concerns within the watch industry is keeping the art of watchmaking alive. When you ask young children what they want to be when they are older, you usually get a response along the lines of professional athlete or secret agent. Watchmaker is by no means their go-to answer. But, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: HSNY awards $100K in scholarships to watchmaking students and institutions at their annual gala appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Phillips Geneva XV And Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th Auctions Feature Watches With Serious History
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will hold the Geneva Watch Auction XV in Switzerland on May 7 and 8, 2022. What’s particularly interesting about Phillips’ traditional late spring auction this year is that it is preceded by an “appetizer” on May 6, the Royal Oak 50th auction with a catalogue so rich it could arguably serve as the main course. Brendan Cunningham went to the New York City preview and shares a few of his highlights with us here.
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: Five Skeletons That Are Anything But Bare Bones
They're among the most intricate designs we have to offer.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Franck Muller Vanguard Line Cut
First announced two years ago as an exclusive for its retailers in France, the Vanguard Line Cut is strikingly different from the usual Franck Muller offering. Having just two hands and sandblasted titanium all round, the Line Cut is monochromatic, sleek, and thin, while also being as minimalist as a Franck Muller can be. Initial thoughts Better known for its big watches in over-the-top styles, Franck Muller did something different with the Vanguard Line Cut. It’s essentially a flatter, sleeker version of its Vanguard. But the Line Cut is more than a nip and tuck. The tactile feel of the Line Cut is surprising in the hand and on the wrist. It feels different from the typical Franck Muller, being lighter, slimmer, and restrained. And like all tonneau-shaped Franck Muller watches, the case is slightly curved so it hugs the wrist. Unlike most other watches in this segment that emphasise angles and straight lines, like the Bulgari Octo Finissimo for instance, the Line Cut is all about rounded corners and soft edges, so it wears quite comfortably. And the Line Cut has a new calibre developed for the watch, which makes it more interesting in technical terms. That said, the movement is slightly mysterious since Franck Muller provides no info about it other than the specs, at least officially. The specs indicate the movement is indeed an in-house movement, since they don’t correspond to any well-known calibres. (And based on what I have learnt about the movement unofficially, ...
Time+Tide
Nicolas Cage loves shortbread, tree bark, and Grand Seiko
When people use the terms ‘fashion’ and ‘watch’ in the same sentence near die-hard enthusiasts, it can cause a shiver down their spines. “Fashion watch” is practically a derogatory term in the watch community, dismissing a piece as a cheap build leveraging the name of a popular fashion house to elicit purchases. To be fair, … ContinuedThe post Nicolas Cage loves shortbread, tree bark, and Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: H. Moser's Show-Stopping Cylindrical Tourbillon Has A Heartbeat You Won't Believe
It's also one of the most interesting releases of the year.
Time+Tide
WATCH CONFESSIONS: “I wear a fake Rolex and don’t give a damn”
EDITOR’S NOTE: We recently ran the first and second parts of our Watch Confessions series in which Time+Tide interviewed members of the community to get them to share their watch-related secrets. In this latest instalment, one anonymous watch lover justifies the apparently unjustifiable and explains why he wears a fake Rolex. “The thing is I actually wanted … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “I wear a fake Rolex and don’t give a damn” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun in Green and White Ceramic
Launched in 2007, Top Gun is IWC’s line up of all-ceramic pilot’s watches. But since its inauguration over a decade ago, the Top Gun has largely relied on a singular colour of ceramic – black in either a matte or glossy finish. IWC did offer a few models with coloured ceramic cases, but they were limited editions, until now. At Watches & Wonders 2022 IWC revealed ceramic cases in white or green with a pair of Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition – both regular production models. Instantly evoking stormtroopers from Star Wars, the “Lake Tahoe” edition has a case of white ceramic, while the “Woodland” edition is in forest-green ceramic. Both are 43.5 mm in diameter and contain the in-house cal. 69380. The two new models double the range of ceramic colours offered by IWC. They join the Pilot’s Watch “Mojave” editions launched in 2019 that had an unusual sand-coloured ceramic case, and last year’s “Laureus Sport for Good” in blue ceramic. “Woodland” Initial thoughts Long the brand’s bestselling line, the Pilot’s Watch has been a focus of IWC in recent few years. The brand has made safe bets with iterating on popular models that have received upgrades such as in-house movements, new dial colours, or more compact cases in new materials. In comparison the latest pair of chronographs are more adventurous. Intrinsically interesting because of their colours, the white and green ceramic cases are relatively uncommon for chronographs in this ...
Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton’s cutesy Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours collection
Louis Vuitton's Vivienne mascot is given a lot more attention in a slim Tambour case.The post Louis Vuitton’s cutesy Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Pimped My Rolex – Reprise
The watch nerd that WMMT is, he rarely immediately wears his new watches, putting them aside for a few days and letting the anticipation grow. When it finally came time to wear his new Rolex, he took it out of the box and proudly put it on his wrist. And then horror struck: he didn’t feel anything, not a thing! Zilch, nada, niente! What to do?
Time+Tide
WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Divorce made me buy a crazy expensive watch”
EDITOR’S NOTE: We recently ran the first part of our Watch Confessions in which Time+Tide began to interview members of the community to get them to share their watch-related secrets. In this second instalment, one anonymous watch lover tells how acquiring his dream watch didn’t turn out quite as planned… “Men can often do dumb things … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Divorce made me buy a crazy expensive watch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.