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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.
Hands-On: Longines Heritage Military 1938 SJX Watches
Longines Heritage Military 1938 Longines Jan 26, 2020

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Military 1938

Longines has been cranking out vintage remakes at a furious pace over the last year, most notably the Heritage Classic “sector” dial and Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. All of them share the appealing qualities of being well-priced and fairly authentic remakes. The latest to be released is the Heritage Military 1938, a remake of an oversized watch Longines produced in the 1930s, often for Eastern European markets. It’s as good as the other remakes in terms of value – Longines excel at making value-for-money watches – but falls a bit flat with the dial. The ref. 4092 The inspiration for the new remake is the ref. 4092, a wristwatch that is exceptionally large for its time, with its steel case measuring 43 mm in diameter. Such extra-large watches with military-style dials appear to have mostly been sold to Eastern Europe; Zipper, the Longines agent in Poland at the time is often named as the recipient in archive extracts. A vintage ref. 4092 from the Longines Museum (left) next to the Heritage Military 1938 The rarity and remarkable size of the ref. 4092, along with its appealing military-style dial, makes it a fairly valuable watch today. Even an example with a severely-aged dial sold for 23,750 Swiss francs at Phillips in 2017. So unlike other modern-day remakes that are enlarged versions of vintage originals, the Heritage Military 1938 is just right; it is exactly the same size as the original, but priced at just a tenth of the auction result. The remake Th...

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Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Creative Director at Bulgari Watches SJX Watches
Bulgari Watches Noted watch designers Jan 22, 2020

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Creative Director at Bulgari Watches

Noted watch designers are usually prolific, but often famous for a handful, or even just one or two, creations. The obvious example is the late Gerald Genta, who conceived tens of thousands of designs, but is best known for his twin luxury-sports watches of 1972 and 1976. And so it is for Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the chief watch designer at Bulgari. Born in Naples but having moved to Rome as a child, the 49-year old joined Bulgari in 2001, after a short stint at Fiat in Turin straight out of design school. Over the 19 years designing watches for Bulgari, with several spent as a freelancer in the mid 2000s, he has created numerous and diverse timepieces, but the Octo Finissimo is his definitive work to date. The sleek and exceptionally thin watch has won critical acclaim, as well as many awards, since its launch in 2014. While it is probably too early to elevate the design to iconic status – something he admits below – the Octo Finissimo certainly has a good chance of getting there. The new Octo Finissimo in steel Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani I admire Mr Buonamassa Stigliani’s work with the Octo Finissimo, and though I managed to speak with him on several occasions over the years, they were brief conversations. But at last week’s LVMH Watch Week in Dubai – where Bulgari, Hublot, and Zenith presented their latest timepieces – I spoke with him at length. In an enlightening interview, he discussed the conception and construction of the Octo Finissimo, watch ...

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“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 1: U2 bass player Adam Clayton’s H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Limited Edition #1 of 3, with funky blue dial Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Jan 21, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 1: U2 bass player Adam Clayton’s H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Limited Edition #1 of 3, with funky blue dial

The personal watch of Adam Clayton, bass player of U2, this Pioneer Centre Seconds is one of only three Pioneer models in existence without a brand name on the dial. It has not been polished and is literally ‘off Adam’s wrist to the auction’ – light scratches and wear marks remain. Adam has been photographed … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 1: U2 bass player Adam Clayton’s H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Limited Edition #1 of 3, with funky blue dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Zenith Elite Lady MoonPhase Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Elite Lady MoonPhase Review Jan 21, 2020

Zenith Elite Lady MoonPhase Review

Zenith has rejuvenated the Elite collection through timeless lines and simple yet strong visual aesthetics. The Zenith Elite Lady Moonphase is setting the tone for the brand and its modern, stylish watches.  What are the key features? The most important feature worth mentioning is that the Zenith Elite Lady Moonphase has 64 round brilliant cut diamonds around the bezel with VS clarity, totalling 0.9 of a carot. These diamonds sparkle beautifully from its side angles and would be noticeable for those around you. This watch is also offered without diamonds.  The stainless-steel bracelet is another exquisite feature. It’s so shiny that you can see your own reflection. It’s elegant, classy and practical. Due to the design and make of this bracelet, marks or light scratches were not visible even after a few weeks of wear. This watch also comes in the black alligator leather strap which is also a classy look.  The diameter of the Zenith Elite Lady Moonphase is 36mm which may sound big but as the casing is only 9.1mm, it’s ultra-thin. This watch is also available in 33mm with or without diamonds.  The dial of the Zenith Elite Lady Moonphase is simple and clean making it extremely easy to tell the time. The blue hand of the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock is a thoughtful feature as it stands out well against the mother of pearl dial. It shines beautifully under the right light and angle. The simplicity of the dial adds to the elegance of this watch.  The open case ...

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Blancpain Introduces Miniature, Skeleton, Form Movement Cal. 510 SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre has been Jan 21, 2020

Blancpain Introduces Miniature, Skeleton, Form Movement Cal. 510

Every year Blancpain (as well as its sister company Breguet) debuts a limited edition for Valentine’s Day. The concept is a bit kitschy – the watch is usually decked out in diamonds and hearts – but this year’s edition is a notably interesting watch. The Saint-Valentin 2020 is powered by a newly-developed form movement, the cal. 510, that is both rectangular and skeletonised. While traditionally Jaeger-LeCoultre has been the leader in form movements for ladies’ watches, most notably with the tiny cal. 101 and with other movements found in the Reverso as well as various Cartier Tanks, Blancpain has notched up a win in the segment with the cal. 510. The cal. 510 is relatively large for what is supposed to be a small movement for a ladies’ watch, measuring 12 mm wide and 25.2 mm long. But it is impressively constructed. It’s fitted with a good-sized barrel that gives it a 50-hour power reserve, which is lengthy for such a tiny movement. That is especially so considering the relatively large balance wheel that is free-sprung and equipped with hour regulating weights on its recessed rim. Additionally, the bridges are all open-worked, revealing the going train and barrel ratchet wheel. The result is also an obvious two-tone look, with the gilded wheels contrasted against the rhodium-plated bridges. And the components are finished carefully and completely, although it appears some of it is done by machine. The rest of the watch is arguably less interesting than ...

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Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Black Titanium SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Jan 20, 2020

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Black Titanium

The eight years Vacheron Constantin spent on developing the most complicated watch ever – the Reference 57260 pocket watch – spawned not just the timepiece itself, but various complications incorporated within its movement. A handful of its complications have been translated into wristwatch form, including the multi-axis tourbillon, resulting in the Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon. Originally launched in 2016 in a white gold case, and later iterated with cases in other precious metals, the Armillary Tourbillon recently made its debut with a black-coated titanium case, giving it a radically different look and feel from the earlier versions. The watch is big, lightweight, and mechanical looking, setting it apart from the typical Vacheron Constantin. Though its colours are stealthy, the size of the case and intricacy of the dial mean it is hard to miss. The case is huge – 45 mm in diameter and over 20mm high – and it looks the part on the wrist. Part of the thickness is due to the highly-domed crystal, a necessity because of the relatively thick movement and bi-axial tourbillon. In fact, the tourbillon sits so high that a bubble is integrated into the already-high crystal to accommodate the cage. The pointed tips of the lugs are inspired by the Maltese cross, which is also the logo of Vacheron Constantin But this particular version of the Armillary Tourbillon is satisfyingly light because of the case material. As a result it wears relatively well for a watch ...

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H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic With Full Metal Bracelet: Inspiring Amnemori! Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Jan 19, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic With Full Metal Bracelet: Inspiring Amnemori!

The Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is about firsts for Moser: its first chronograph complication, its first bracelet, its first cushion-shaped case, a brand-new dial, hands, and a new movement. But what grabbed Joshua Munchow from the start was the bracelet, and that is when the amnemori began. What is that? Joshua explains here in detail.

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LVMH Watch Week 2020: A Round Table Discussion Of A New-Generation Group Fair And A Photofest Of New Watches From Zenith, Hublot And Bulgari Quill & Pad
Bulgari As Baselworld Jan 18, 2020

LVMH Watch Week 2020: A Round Table Discussion Of A New-Generation Group Fair And A Photofest Of New Watches From Zenith, Hublot And Bulgari

As Baselworld and Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) continue to evolve, change, and metamorphose, the various groups and brands continue to ponder how to best show their new watches to both retail and press. In an experimental trial run for a new-age solution, LVMH staged a small fair comprising three of its watch brands – Zenith, Hublot, and Bulgari – in Bulgari's Dubai Resort. Here's what we thought of the event.

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Hands-On: Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition SJX Watches
Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Jan 16, 2020

Hands-On: Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition

The Zenith Defy 21 is unquestionably strong value for money – a 1/100th of a second chronograph starting at just over US$10,000 for the base model in titanium. But most of the iterations of the Defy 21 so far have a highly technical look, combining a skeletonised dial with a large, angular case. Now the Defy 21 design has taken a sharp turn in another another direction: with the help of Land Rover, Zenith has given it a makeover, creating the minimalist and functional Defy 21 Land Rover Edition. While automotive-inspired watches are often over designed, the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition has been redesigned in a simple and effective manner; the watch has been streamlined and pared back, giving it a slightly military look that works. The styling is a nod to the 2020 Land Rover Defender, the most no-nonsense of the British carmaker’s offerings that was launched in late 2019. Clean lines and surfaces To start with the case is micro-blasted titanium – finished with a finer-than-usual frosting that is faintly granular, in contrast to the coarser frosting that is more commonly applied to titanium. The surface is smooth enough that is resembles a coating, but it is natural titanium. The simplicity of the case finish is appealing, because it suits the chunky, angular form of the case. But it is also practical, because it reduces the perceived size of the case, which is large at 44 mm by 14.4 mm. But being titanium, the case is fairly lightweight and wears comfortably, though...

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