6,171 articles · 2,469 videos found · page 136 of 288
Monochrome
Founded in 2017 by a group of enthusiasts led by Ming Thein, the Swiss-Malay watch company MING has evolved from a small horological venture into one of the most intriguing independent watchmakers of our time. In 2021, MING introduced the Special Projects Cave, an initiative to foster customer involvement in creating experimental watches while advancing […]
Worn & Wound
In its latest iteration of the Depthmaster, Swiss watch manufacturer Nivada Grenchen has just released their Purple Ghost limited edition. You may remember this model from last year’s review, but the new Purple Ghost has reimagined the classic diver of the past in a new colorway that’s as interesting as it is, frankly, cool. To begin with, we should mention that the Purple Ghost is a collaborative effort with Naples, Florida-based authorized retailer of some of the world’s most famous brands, Exquisite Timepieces. With its long relationship with Nivada Grenchen, this partnership highlights not only the best of both brands, but also the strengths of each – both separately and together. With Exquisite’s history in the luxury watch space and Nivada Grenchen’s 145 years in business, I’m sure each brand was able to compare notes and bring to market something that’s totally unique in the market today. So, enter the Purple Ghost. As with its previous iteration, you are going to get a lot of distinct personality from this watch. Before we get too far into what makes the Purple Ghost unique, we should take notes of the case. Ostensibly a cushion case, the oversized bezel adds a proportionality to this watch that belies its 39mm size. Like last year’s release of the Depthmaster, this LE comes with some funky Pac-Man-style numerical markings (don’t they kind of remind you of The Rugrats logo – in the best way possible?). Couple that with the vibrant purple Swiss...
Hodinkee
The founder of Analog Shift and co-founder of RedBar joins to talk vintage and neo-vintage watches, Doxa (of course), and working with Watches of Switzerland.
Worn & Wound
Founded in 2015, Vero Watch Company is dedicated to creating well-built, durable, and reliable watches at affordable prices. All of their watches improve on the models that came before them. In 2020, this continuous development led them to partner with trusted Swiss manufacturers held to the strictest quality control guidelines. They are passionate enthusiasts who meticulously create watches for dedicated collectors, and this passion also extends to their commitment to sustainability and environmental initiatives. One of these initiatives involves protecting our forests. Last summer, Vero launched a pair of Smokey the Bear watches in stainless steel, with 10% of all sales benefiting the US Forest Service. Piggybacking on the success of these two sold-out models, Vero is releasing two new ones to commemorate Smokey’s 80th anniversary. However, these new ones are made of bronze instead of stainless steel. The story of Smokey is quite interesting. To understand his significance, it’s essential to know a bit about his history. Smokey’s origins can be traced back to World War II when there were limited numbers of firefighters due to wartime demands. This left communities to deal with wildfires as best they could. The U.S. Forest Service established the Cooperative Forest Fire Prevention (CFFP) program to address this issue. The program aimed to educate the public about the dangers of forest fires. They selected a bear as the program’s mascot and drew inspiration from th...
Worn & Wound
When I think of Victorinox, only one thing comes to mind: their iconic Swiss Army knife. Growing up in the scout program, I thought that a Swiss Army knife was the coolest thing ever, even if I couldn’t find one with the perfect tool set. Years later I’ve come to learn that Victorinox has an impressive line of products, ranging from iconic multi-tools, travel gear, fragrances, and of course, watches. When the Dive Pro landed on my desk, I was quite intrigued with its angular design and rugged appearance. Throughout this review, we’ll take a look at the technical specs and ultimately my opinion on the watches in general. The Dive Pro line from Victorinox is an extension of their dive watch offering with eight new references, bringing an increased depth rating of 300 meters, new case materials, and some bold colorways. While all of the new Dive Pro watches feature a 43mm case, faceted unidirectional bezels, and sapphire crystals, you have the option of two case materials: 316L Stainless Steel and Grade 2 Titanium. I feel that both of these materials were carefully selected for their unique properties they bring to the table. While titanium is a lighter material with more inherent corrosion resistance, these benefits come at a cost, literally. Stainless steel provides slightly less corrosion resistance but can be machined much easier allowing the material to be manufactured to the same quality at a cheaper price. Depending on the environments you expect to dive in, you ...
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Quill & Pad
Many think that Louis Vuitton's first watch was the Tambour, which was launched in 2002. However the brand actually began with a watch collection called Monterey in the 1980s. The Monterey I, an unusual worldtime watch designed by Gae Aulenti with date and moon phase, was soon followed by the ceramic-encased Monterey II that added an alarm function.
Worn & Wound
A thing you discover about watch collecting after being involved in the hobby for a little while is that it’s a truly international endeavor. This manifests itself in a number of ways. The geography of the watchmaking industry is obviously something that’s discussed frequently, with Swiss, German, Japanese, and American styles of the craft all taking slightly different shapes. But even more than that, practical matters like the availability of watches to actually purchase has a lot to do with where you are in the world. Just last week, we told you about a pair of new limited edition Grand Seikos made just for the US market, and today we have a similar story about a Seiko diver for sale exclusively in Europe. Regional releases strike again. The Seiko Prospex SPB473 would have caught our eye regardless, but something about it being vaguely forbidden if you happen to live in America makes it all the more appealing. Now, realistically, this watch won’t be that hard to track down if you really put some effort into it. There are all kinds of ways an American customer can obtain a watch made for a foreign market. Proxy buyers, the pre-owned market, and simply calling up a dealer and asking if they’d consider an international sale are all viable options. But if it really is the thrill of the hunt that makes watch collecting exciting and rewarding, have those few extra hoops to jump through could actually be welcome for some. The SPB473’s key feature is a beautiful grad...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year we told you about Swiss brand Delma’s 100th anniversary celebration, which kicked off with the release of a limited edition tourbillon. Of course, plenty of brands release tourbillons and they are a natural for a celebratory watch, but very few come in at under $10,000, which the Delma did during its pre-order period (the full retail price is $13,900, which is still quite affordable for a Swiss tourbillon). Their latest effort, announced last month, has also been released to coincide with the brand’s centenary, but it’s a bit more modest in its focus. The new Heritage Chronograph 100 Years Limited Edition pays tribute to Delma’s long history of making chronographs in a handsome package that’s a bit more under the radar (and more affordable) than their release from earlier in the year. Delma traces their history of making chronographs to the mid 1940s when the brand’s focus began to shift to sport oriented watches. Over the years, they’ve made watches for just about every sporting discipline that a well rounded watch brand would ever attempt, including dive watches, timepieces meant for racing of all kinds, as well as travel watches. The new Heritage Chronograph has several clear vintage cues meant to tie this watch to the brand’s earliest sports watches. Like many WWII era and later mid century chronographs, the Heritage Chronograph features both tachymeter and telemeter scales at the dial’s outer perimeter. Red accents within the te...
Worn & Wound
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...
Fratello
It’s summer, and while the Swiss watch industry takes the month off, we’re picking our favorite watches once again! This time, however, we’re not sticking to a specific budget. Instead, we’re keeping the theme consistent but aiming at three different price categories - sub-€1,000, sub-€10,000, and a no-holds-barred, unrestricted category. The goal is to see […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Nacho’s Picks From Citizen, Zenith, and Singer Reimagined to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this fourth and final installment of the series, Andrew examines the dramatic leap forward in watch manufacturing made by the Waltham Watch Company, and how the Swiss watch industry responded. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster. “Had the Philadelphia Exhibition taken place five years later, we should have been totally annihilated without knowing whence or how we received the terrible blow. We have believed ourselves masters of the situation, when we really have been on a volcano.” Edouard Favre-Perret, Swiss Member of the International Jury Have you ever heard of Jacques David or Theophilus (Théodore) Gribi? How about Ambrose Webster? They were the key protagonists in the fascinating story of the rise of American watchmaking and subsequent potential demise of Swiss watchmaking. It’s a story of industrial espionage and spying that changed the course of the global watch industry forever. The Centennial Exhibition of 1876 took place in Philadelphia and was the first official World’s Fair to be held in the United States, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence in Philadelphia. Almost 10 million visitors attended the exposition, with 37 countries participating. Centennial Exhibiti...
SJX Watches
Whilst many dream of owning a watch from one of the great Swiss watchmakers, the price points at retail can be discouraging for those on a budget. So where does this leave the enthusiast who wants to dip his or her toes into the world of high-end watchmaking? A little digging into lesser-known models, which we present here. We’re not just discussing the most inexpensive watches from Rolex and the “Holy Trinity”, since that’s too obvious and mundane. So instead, we bring you five watches that are not necessarily the most affordable, but amongst the best value propositions. Majority of the five presented below are ancestors of current-production models, and one is a less popular recent launch. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, first-generation with meteorite dial Rolex is well known for dials in a variety of unique materials such as mineral stones and mother of pearl. Arguably more exotic, at least at the time of its launch, was meteorite. Whilst it’s not exactly known when the first meteorite dials were introduced by Rolex, the material has a constant in its catalogue for some two decades now. The latest meteorite additions to the line were the Daytona models of 2021, but the Daytona has in fact sported a meteorite dial before. In the early 2004 the material was combined with white gold for the first Daytona with a meteorite dial. It was available on a leather strap or a white gold bracelet, which is the version to go for. This first-generation Rolex ref. 1165...
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Rolex refreshed the Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller collection with two new models in 18k gold matched with a Jubilee bracelet, giving a new face to its most complicated watch. The Sky-Dweller was the brand’s most complex wristwatch at introduction in 2012 and remains so a dozen years later. Despite its technical sophistication, the Sky-Dweller is very much a Rolex, incorporating innovations geared towards practicality and functionality. Combining the Saros annual calendar with a second time zone in 24-hour format, the cal. 9002 of the Sky-Dweller boasts several patents, marking out the Sky-Dweller as one of the most innovative Rolex watches of the 21st century. Rolex’s take on the annual calendar in particular is perhaps the most unique in contemporary watchmaking. It relies on clever mathematics and gear mechanics, while doing away with traditional levers or cams, in order to maximise reliability and useability. The second-generation Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller movement, the cal. 9002 that succeeded the cal. 9001 Notably, Rolex managed to incorporate all of the complications of the Sky-Dweller into a design that preserves the classic Oyster silhouette thanks to the innovative Ring Command system. The case has no pushers or buttons, but instead relies on the bezel as a clever function selector mechanism that transforms the signature fluted bezel into a functional device while eliminating the need for an additional crown or pushers. The Oyster ...
Monochrome
Once one of the largest watch companies in the world, German brand Junghans was founded in 1861 by Erhard Junghans and his brother-in-law Jakob Zeller-Tobler and started as a clockmaker. Mostly famous for its collaboration with Swiss Bauhaus designer Max Bill, the company kept on bringing nicely designed and accessible watches over the years. Aside […]
Worn & Wound
Lacher & Co. (Laco) is widely considered one of the pioneers of the German pilot watch genre. They have been crafting Flieger style timepieces in Pforzheim since 1925 and have truly mastered the art. They are experts at blending almost a century’s worth of expertise with innovative new ideas and technology. Traditional Flieger watches are recognized for their large, high-contrast black dials featuring stark white hands, numerals, and indices. In an effort to add charm and flair to the traditional, Laco is introducing new variations of their classic Augsburg and Aachen watches with fresh green dials. The difference between those two models lies in their dial configurations. The Augsburg follows the typical Type A dial layout, with a standard minute track surrounding the outer edge of the dial, and features beautiful, oversized hands. Alternatively, the Aachen has a Type B dial layout known as B-Uhr, or Beobachtungsuhren, which translates to observation watch. The latter’s perimeter displays the minutes, while a smaller track closer to the center shows the hours. As a result, the hands are quite different. The sword-shaped minute hand has most of its weight in the second half of its length, and the hour hand is shortened so that its tip stays within the inner circle. With their polished steel-framed hands and new green dials, they most certainly feel more contemporary and fashionable. Powering these pilot watches is the Laco 2S, which is based on the Miyota 82S0 caliber....
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Monochrome
Horage truly stands apart in the watch industry with its start-up mentality, forward-thinking approach, and capacity to explore unconventional methods. This young Swiss watchmaking company, based in Biel, boasts a remarkable level of vertical integration despite its size. Led by Tsuyu Huang, Andi Felsl, and their dedicated team, Horage has introduced a smart concept aimed […]
Monochrome
A rather discreet Swiss brand, Delma was founded in 1924 by brothers Adolf and Albert Gilomen as A. & A. Gilomen S.A. in Lengnau and currently operating from the same Swiss town. Following a takeover led by Ulrich Wüthrich in 1966, the company was renamed Delma Watch Ltd. This year, as you’d expect, is an […]
On episode 85 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan co-host from Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024. With over 60 brands in attendance, it was a fantastic fair. Zach and Zach chose two brands each to talk to, one just debuting and the other a staple with a new release. Zach Kazan spoke to Monta about the Noble GMT, and then Colorado’s 5280 watches, who are creating rose-engine turned, vitreous enamel dials in the US. Zach Weiss then spoke to Chicago’s own Astor + Banks about the SeaRanger M2, as well as ARTEFKT Seven, a new brand that turned a lot of heads at the fair. To stay up to date about future Windup Watch Fairs, such as the New York City fair happening in October, head to WindupWatchFair.com The post A Week in Watches Ep. 85: Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Emmanuel Dietrich is a Swiss-based, French-born designer with French and German roots and an unrelenting drive to craft his ideal watch, who presented his first creations as an independent brand in 2014. His debut collection, the Dietrich OT, for Organic Time, was nothing short of a bold design experiment. It was curious, somewhat avant-garde, a […]
Time+Tide
Andrew visits Swiss Timing LTD to explore Omega timekeeping that will elevate the experience of the 2024 Paris Olympics to the next level.The post How Omega Olympic timekeeping technology maximises precision, fairness, and storytelling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
The first quarter results of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that just announced a new chief executive, illustrate a well-established trend in the luxury goods industry, with the group’s jewellery brands outperforming its watchmakers in the three months to end June 2024. Dominated by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the Swiss group’s jewellery division eked out a 4% increase in sales, reflecting the strength of the group’s twin jewellery giants. Notably, the revenue growth was “supported by both jewellery and watches”, reflecting the brand equity of each jeweller has carried over into their respective watch offerings. The three jewellery brands – the smallest is Buccellati – accounted for 70% of Richemont’s turnover. Although profit was not announced, the jewellers are also responsible for an even greater share of the group’s profits. Watch weakness In contrast, the watch division saw revenue fall 13%. Amongst the division’s brands are IWC, Panerai, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin were singled out for their “resilience”. Unsurprisingly, both are haute horlogerie brands that derive the highest proportion of revenue from in-house boutiques, as opposed to third-party retailers. Whether this resilience is durable is an open question, although odds are not in the brands’ favour given their respective product mix, sales strategies, and consumer sentiment. Only available at boutiques At a group leve...
Monochrome
Released last year, the Tissot Heritage 1938 COSC is a watch that’s hard to not objectively find brilliant. Combining a nice retro design with modern specs and a truly fair price, it even comes equipped with a chronometer-certified movement – making it one of the most accessible Swiss chronometers on the market. This handsome, affordable […]
Monochrome
Nothing does more for a brand’s image than having a famous name spontaneously endorse your product. Although Doxa was not the first Swiss brand to produce a professional dive watch, it was the first to introduce a dive watch with a unidirectional rotating bezel to ensure safe no-decompression ascents in 1967. Doxa’s SUB 300, with […]
Monochrome
At CHF 3,445 million, the sales of the Swatch Group, the Swiss powerhouse owner of Omega, Longines or Tissot, are down 14.3% at constant exchange rates and 10.7% at constant rates. The declining sales strongly impact the operating profit at CHF 204 million against CHF 686 million for the previous year. Swatch Group advises that […]
Quill & Pad
Quentin R. Bufogle has always been a Swiss watch snob. He knows Grand Seiko turns out some truly excellent timepieces. But for all of impeccable engineering, and craftsmanship, for this watch enthusiast, the brand has always lacked something in spirit. Until he discovered the Kumakawa Worldtimer GMT Limited Edition.
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