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New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Green Steel
Bell & Ross adds a green dial to their BR 05 Chrono in Steel to 11 watches in the collection. Available with a steel bracelet or a green rubber strap.
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Deployant
Bell & Ross adds a green dial to their BR 05 Chrono in Steel to 11 watches in the collection. Available with a steel bracelet or a green rubber strap.
SJX Watches
Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...
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Swatch release four new references in Bioceramic in a square case in black, gray, green and beige (blue dial). Introducing the BIOCERAMIC WHAT IF?
SJX Watches
As the Summer Olympics in Paris approach, Omega introduces a special edition of the Seamaster Diver 300M. Limited editions for the event are a given, but this latest Olympic edition is dressed in unusual livery for a Seamaster. The brand’s Moonshine Gold alloy is used for bezel, while the dial is bright white ceramic. Initial thoughts Considering Omega’s long association with the Olympics stretches back 91 years, the number of limited editions for the games is numerous. Many were regrettably rather mundane in design, featuring the customary dial colour changes and Olympic markings. However, this particular edition stands out with its lighter tones, a departure from the typically dark hues of Omega’s dive watches, which was also the usual look of previous Olympic editions. And because this is an Omega, the colours are as much about aesthetics as materials. One aspect that particularly appeals in this release is the Moonshine Gold bezel. The golden insert complements the white ceramic dial and the stainless steel case and bracelet. This gives the watch a sense of visual luxury, making it different from the typical diver special edition without being gimmicky, which arguably gives it more longevity in terms of style. The price of this special edition stands at US$8,700, notably higher than the standard steel model, which is rationalised by the gold bezel no doubt. It will only be available, for the moment, at Omega boutiques in Paris. That said, the brand has not yet ...
Worn & Wound
Most dive watches we come across qualify as such thanks to a chunky bezel, gobs of lume on the dial, and halfway decent depth rating. Vulcain, never keen to adhere to the well beaten path, took a different approach with their diver, the Nautical Cricket, and it shows at first blush. The impressive depth rating is there, sure, but the rest of the formula kind of goes out the window. It’s an approach I’d love to see more of in modern divers, and am thrilled to see Vulcain return to the concept 60 years after the original, and 10 years after the first attempt at resuscitation. It’s entirely confusing at a glance, and even if you know what you’re looking at, it still might require an explanation. The new Nautical Cricket is the latest chapter in Vulcain’s modern resurgence. The Nautical Cricket is, as you may have guessed from the name, an alarm watch, which can be set via the thin 4th hand with bright red tip. While unique, that’s not the most unusual element to this watch. That would be the inner portion of the dial, which is littered with rings and number sets and a long thin aperture which reveal further sets of numbers when turned. These tables are used in conjunction with the alarm timer, and if used correctly, will give you the length of your decompression stops at 3, 6, and 9 meters on your ascent. How this works exactly is a bit trickier to decipher, but makes the watch all the more interesting as a dive tool. Things begin with the planned length of your...
Time+Tide
The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue limited edition of 1,000 pieces features a sandblasted grade 2 titanium case Its silver sunray-brushed dial blends into the hue of the case giving a largely monochromatic sensibility Pops of colour are injected by elements like the blue opaline registers that pay tribute to French Racing Blue The … ContinuedThe post The new TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue Limited Edition pays tribute to French Racing Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Longines marked a historical milestone last year with the well-received Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a watch that combines classic good looks with a modest price tag. Now the brand has taken the same styling and applied it to another model to create the Master Collection Small Seconds. The Small Seconds makes its debut in a pleasing variety of dial colours, including a fashionable “salmon”. As much of a value proposition as last year’s anniversary model, the Small Seconds retains the same aesthetic as its predecessor but with a subsidiary seconds at six that gives it a more retro feel. But because of the small seconds, it becomes a noticeably thicker watch. So even though it looks much like the anniversary edition, the Small Seconds feels different. Initial thoughts The Small Seconds is largely identical to its centre-seconds counterpart, so it has much of the same appeal. The design is a pleasing vintage style with all the right elements like Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Admittedly, the styling is somewhat generic – it’s vintage inspired rather than a remake – but the result is appealing, especially considering its affordability. Although the watch is clearly an industrial product, the details are done well, the engraved numerals are especially attractive. This is especially so on the anthracite and salmon dials, which have the numerals in contrasting plating. The anthracite dial is especially striking because it is a relatively uncommon co...
Worn & Wound
Origin stories in this hobby influence the rabbit holes we follow. My story began when I learned not all modern watches have batteries. The simple idea that mechanical watches were still being made, sold down the street from me, and could run for years without intervention blew my mind. Partially because it was mechanically impressive, but mostly because of how unnecessary it was. The concept of dozens of components interacting to move hands around a dial, when a perfectly functional watch can be purchased at the grocery store for $20, resonated with me. My discovery of these rebelliously absurd contraptions came at a time in my life when I had two kids in daycare and income was not disposable. My first mechanical watch was a one-handed Luch, a watch I loved dearly, and purchased for about $50. I didn’t care about finishing or accuracy, just that I had something unnecessarily complicated strapped to my wrist. Years later, my philosophy hasn’t changed much. When considering a new watch, I always ask myself three questions: What does it do? Does that thing excite me? Is there anything about the watch that doesn’t excite me? That third question is the one that keeps my collection and budget in check. The answers I come up with, always rooted in my original fascination with accessibly priced mechanical timekeeping, have surprised me. Some are movement specific, and others centered around design. Photo by Nathan Schultz So, to kick off a two-part series where I will try n...
Time+Tide
The Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph adopts the light blue trend in style. Its bright contrasts, moody dial and name take influence from pop music. Between the dial, case and bezel, there’s a lot of interesting texture. The Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph has always been a laid-back, go anywhere, do anything watch. The new … ContinuedThe post The Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph is a high-contrast proposition with a titanium build appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having made a specialty of artistic Super-Luminova that began with the Moomin in 2020, Finnish independent watchmaker Sarpaneva now applies it to a motif inspired by the water spirits of Nordic folkore. The Sarpaneva Näkki has a hand-finished dial open worked to create over 650 apertures that are then filled by hand with luminous paint, creating a multi-coloured scene – with the brand’s trademark moon phase looming overhead – that is best appreciated in the dark. Initial thoughts The Näkki is quintessential Sarpaneva in combining the art and history of its home region along with the brand’s distinctive design. Though its style is similar to Sarpaneva’s past models, particularly last year’s Nocturne, the Näkki is more elaborate in terms of dial decoration and finishing. In fact, unlike past Sarpaneva models with Super-Luminova dials, the Näkki is almost as colourful during the day as a result of the pigmented lume that still has colour even when not luminescent. Dial aside, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard Sarpaneva automatic, which means a high quality case and customised movement with an especially elaborate rotor made in-house. Though the movement itself is outsourced and no-frills, the execution of the rest of the components is high quality. At €21,000 before taxes, the Näkki is amongst the most expensive Sarpaneva watches. The price is arguably justified by the complexity of the dial, though it is probably close to the price ceiling...
Hodinkee
A vintage pièce unique Patek dial is the perfect inspiration for this collaboration.
SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier has again partnered with Singapore-based Sincere Fine Watches, resulting in the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel Pacific Blue SHH Edition. Conceived for the retailer’s independents-focused store, Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), the watch features a unique, light blue hue for the barleycorn guilloché dial, while retaining the characteristic integrated-bracelet design and an ultra-thin automatic movement. Initial thoughts The Tonda PF has been a crowd favourite due to the fact that it’s an original take on the popular integrated bracelet design, while also having excellent proportions. At the same time, the barleycorn guilloché dial arguably boasts amongst the finest engine turning on a sports watch. So a new shade for the dial is a welcome thing, since it adds an good looking option to an already appealing watch. However, I would have hoped for something more distinctive to set apart the SHH Edition beyond the dial colour. Another guilloche pattern for the dial, for instance, would have made it truly stand out. While the standard model has proven extremely popular – Parmigiani has since unveiled many complicated iterations of the model – it is nice to see that this will only be produced in a limited quantity, adding a level of exclusivity to the new dial, which will surely be appreciated by clients of SHH. Priced at around US$27,000 before taxes, this carries a 10% premium over to the regular-production version. Considering that this is a limited ed...
SJX Watches
Citizen’s flagship mechanical dive watch gets an upgrade with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new “Fujitsubo” diver features a gradient-finish grey dial, but its standout feature is the case and bracelet in the brand’s proprietary hardened titanium alloy coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts Sometimes underestimated, Citizen’s dive watches don’t garner as much attention as those of its competitor Seiko, primarily due to the scarcity of mechanical dive in Citizen’s lineup. Most of Citizen’s dive watches are solar-powered or quartz. Nevertheless, the Japanese watchmaker has recently taken significant steps towards boosting its mechanical offerings, particularly with the introduction of the oversized and modern Promaster 200 m diver. The “Fujitsubo”, on the other hand, takes inspiration from the Challenge Diver of 1977, explaining its vintage styling. But this latest iteration exudes a more contemporary feel owing to the gradient grey dial and the DLC coating on the case and bracelet. The resulting shades-of-grey livery makes this stand apart from its predecessor, which was essentially a like-for-like remake. Priced at US$1,195, the “Fujitsubo” DLC is a bit more expensive than the standard titanium model. Nonetheless, it justifies the higher price tag with improved aesthetics and the superior durability offered by the DLC coating. That said, it would have been even more appealing with the option of a rubber ...
Deployant
The Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton Sapphire Lapis Lazuli is a unique piece that features a hand-made grey gold dragon automaton on a lapis lazuli dial. The dragon has sixteen moving parts and nine animations, which can be activated by a push-button. The dial also has a rotating labradorite sphere at six o’clock.
Time+Tide
While the Omega Seamaster 300M Diver 60 Years of James Bond Edition in stainless steel was a visual tribute to various Omega watches worn by James Bond, particularly the first wave-dial Seamaster worn by Pierce Brosnan and the tenure-ending No Time To Die Edition Seamaster worn by Daniel Craig, this Omega Seamaster 300M Diver 60 … ContinuedThe post The Omega Seamaster 300M Diver 60 Years of James Bond Edition in Canopus gold is for the Bond villains appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the latest releases from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, makes the most of its openworked dial to show off a newly-developed calibre, the RD780, which combines an inclined balance wheel with an integrated chronograph. A complex movement with two patents pending, the RD780 is notably elaborate with unusual features like a digital minute counter and twin barrels. And technically-minded enthusiasts will also note the RD780 boasts diamond-coated silicon escapement parts, which are both wear- and magnetism-resistant. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current chronographs distinguish themselves through bold design and flashy technical features. While the style is outlandish, it is refreshing to see this unique approach to a chronograph design, particularly since the technical features are novel and interesting, such as the inclined balance wheel and column wheel, visible through the openworked dial. But the Excalibur chronograph’s technical merits are perhaps overshadowed by the design, which is excessive in a hyper-mechanical style. The chronograph’s dial is busy, even for an openworked dial. It is not easy to read, even when compared to what is being offered by the likes of Richard Mille, which is perhaps the closest comparison to the Excalibur chronograph. The Excalibur chronograph is priced at US$101,500, making it more affordable than the equivalent from Richard Mille, the RM 72-01. In fact, the Excalibur is half as expensive as the Richar...
Worn & Wound
This one seems like it was bound to happen. When Norqain unveiled the Wild ONE last year and hailed it as a next-gen, materials focused sports watch, it seemed clear that we’d get some ultra modern dial executions down the line to match the tech in the case. I was a pretty big fan of the first batch of Wild ONEs, but if there was an element that seemed a little “off” to me it was the dial. The repeating Norqain logo motif just didn’t seem to match the visual tone and vibe of the rest of the watch. I couldn’t quite put my finger on what would make it better, but with the new skeletonized version that was recently unveiled, I think they have the Wild ONE heading in the right direction. Right off the bat, I realize this might be a somewhat controversial take. When Blake went hands-on with the Wild ONE earlier this year, one of his chief gripes was legibility. That concern is not likely to be abated with a dial that’s perhaps even more of an eye-chart, but in my opinion it “fits” the spirit of the watch a little better. While Norqain is ostensibly selling these as adventure watches for all manner of outdoor activities, to me they feel more in line with stylish, contemporary headturners like the Zenith Defy, or even watches in the Royal Oak Offshore line. Capable, yes, but designed to be gawked at more than anything. The new Wild ONE Skeleton comes in two variants. One with a burgundy NORTEQ case with gold dial accents, and the other with a black NORTEQ case...
Deployant
Rado remakes their iconic 1962 DiaStar by reimagining the watch in an open worked dial. Introducing the new DiaStar Original Skeleton.
Time+Tide
Two modern classics of A. Lange & Söhne designs have been given fresh case materials. The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is cased in 18k white gold with a pink gold dial. The Lange 1 Time Zone is cased in 950 platinum with a rhodium dial. It’s well established by now that the Swiss aren’t the … ContinuedThe post The new A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar and Lange 1 Time Zone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
French microbrand Baltic has sharpened the styling of its signature models with the HMS 003 and Bicompax 003. While maintaining their 1940s-inspired styling and affordable pricing, the new duo feature subtle enhancements to the design, most notably on the dial and a small case diameter. Initial thoughts Baltic found success with its formula of retro style and accessible pricing – most of its watches are in the US$500 to US$1,000 range – with the Micro-Rotor MR01 being a recent bestseller. It is a nice surprise to see the brand’s debut models rebooted to gain a smaller case similar in size to the MR01. The dials of the 003 series offer a lively aesthetic with textured surfaces and applied indices that create a pleasing contrast. This is an upgrade from from the 002 models, which felt a bit flat due to the printed markings on the dial. And the reduced case size of 36.5 mm give the 003 series distinct, 1940s-inspired proportions that match the dial designs perfectly. However, the new dials are perhaps lacking one thing, an applied logo to match the applied indices. Of the three colours, the “salmon” versions are predictable and stand out as crowd pleasers that will probably sell out swiftly give the faddish nature of the colour. The blue dial with gold indices, however, is both unusual and attractive. As is typical for Baltic, the 003 watches are made inexpensively but smartly so they feel a bit nicer than they cost. The new models maintain the brand’s competiti...
Hodinkee
It's an iconic new dial color for one of Lange's great chronographs – just don't call it salmon.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has just unveiled a fresh colour option for the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. Sporting a black dial adorned with red and gold accents, the latest iteration is the chromatic opposite of the original model that featured a conservative silver dial. Initial thoughts The Master Control Chronograph Calendar was released two years ago with an unsurprising silver dial that fit well with the vintage-inspired design but lacked oomph. Fortunately, JLC has addressed this with a high contrast palette that is still suitably vintage inspired but much more striking. Vintage watches with black-and-red dials are uncommon, but they do exist. The combination is appealing, but not the most practical since red text on a black dial is hard to read due to the low contrast between the two colours. This is especially so for the calendar indications, while the pulsations scale on the periphery is probably unreadable in low light. But still, the appeal of the dial certainly makes it compelling despite the poor legality. Colours aside, the watch is identical to the original version, so it shares the same strengths, like the solid, old-school design, and weaknesses, like the mix of French and English on the dial. This costs the same as the earlier version in rose gold, which is US$32,500. The price parity is certainly fair and logical. However, the price is a bit higher than it should be. While not exorbitant, the price does not represent the sort of strong value propo...
Deployant
A new addition to the partnership of Parmigiani Fleurier and Sincere Fine Watches in the now iconic "Pacific Blue" guilloché dial. Here is our review.
Deployant
UK based independents Garrick Watches ups the ante with a new hand-made, hand-wound Regulator Mk2. Available in multiple dial colours and finishing.
SJX Watches
The small German independent was commissioned to produce a limited run of watches to the 350th anniversary of the oldest department store in the world, Mitsukoshi, which began as a kimono store in 1673. Designed in a collaborative effort between the watchmaker and watch retailer Shellman, the D. Dornblüth & Sohn Mitsukoshi 350th Anniversary retains the traditional Dornblüth aesthetic that evokes marine chronometers of the 19th century, but with a bronze-coloured dial. Initial thoughts Not many will be overly familiar with D. Dornblüth & Sohn, but its Germanic aesthetic is reassuringly familiar. It was founded by a father and son watchmaking duo who learnt the trade restoring vintage timepieces, allow them to employ traditional techniques in making their watches. As a result, their work is customisable in terms of finishing and colours, though the pair have been able to maintain a clear brand identity throughout. It would be easy to dismiss this watch. Only five will be made, and all sold through a Tokyo department store, but the curious combination of German sensibilities and restrained Japanese taste makes it one of the more intriguing offerings of this year. The Mitsukoshi edition channels the spirit of Dornblüth very well, but manages to stand apart from the typical Dornblüth thanks to its striking golden dial that contrast with the silvered dials found on the typical Dornblüth. One detail that is worth mentioning is the light touch co-branding. There is in f...
Time+Tide
Longines’ classic Flagship line gets a handsome new 38.5mm Heritage model in three colourways The new models feature both a moonphase and calendar function on a well-balanced dial The original Flagship made its debut in 1957, and was one of Longines’ first wristwatch collections Longines are one of the oldest watch brands in the world, … ContinuedThe post Longines send you over the moon with their newest Flagship Heritage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Seiko’s Presage lineup falls into an interesting place within the wide world of Seiko. Between Seiko 5 Sports, Prospex, Astron, King Seiko, and the separate Grand Seiko, there’s a lot to take in. The Presage line is meant to highlight Seiko’s watchmaking chops by combining a traditional Japanese sense of aesthetics with traditional techniques. The result is a lineup of watches that are elevated over your standard Seiko offerings with more advanced finishing and dial work, most of which tend to lean a bit dressy. The SPB417 we’re taking a look at today is right at home in the Presage lineup, with some really intriguing dial work, crisp applied indices, and an angular case that shows off a variety of finishing techniques. Let’s take a closer look at this brand-new offering from Seiko and all it has to offer. $ The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Case Stainless steel Movement 6R5J Dial Aitetsu blue with asanoha pattern Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 10 bar Dimensions 40.2 x 47.4mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty Yes Price $ Case Measuring 40.2mm wide by 47.4mm lug-to-lug, the SPB417 fits firmly in the mid-sized category. I would say that the measurements and case architecture line up, as the watch wears how the dimensions would imply. The watch is part of the “Sharp Edged” series, which debuted back in 2020 and has since grown to include several different models. One of the important fe...
Deployant
Two additions to the Lange collections - a new Lange 1 Time Zone platinum, & a new 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar in a white gold case/pink gold dial.
SJX Watches
Shortly after the release of their initial timepiece, the Carillon Tourbillon, Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre are making their debut at Only Watch with the Catharsis. A bold take on the chiming watch, this unique piece has no hands on the dial, but indicates the time with the carillon minute repeater. The dial is instead decorated with a mixture of gemstones, semi-precious stone marquetry, and guilloché to create an abstract scene depicting the Moon over a seascape. Inside is a variant of the movement as Biver’s first watch, but with an hour hand on the reverse. Initial thoughts The father-and-son duo behind Biver have to be commended for a daring debut at Only Watch, even though the watch will no doubt be polarising. They have gone extremely conceptual with the Catharsis. The idea of creating a watch with no visible way of telling the time is nothing new, having been done recently by H. Moser & Cie. in 2019 and earlier by Haldimann and Romain Jerome. However, the Catharsis aims to make a statement and chart a course for this newly minted independent brand. The aesthetics of original Biver repeater model were mixed, so this watch actually addresses that issue in a weird yet logical manner. The visual focus of the watch is the dial, which is not really a dial but a canvas for elaborate decoration. The 89 sapphires that make up the waves have been invisibly set and create a pleasing effect alongside the meteorite moon, silver obsidian sky and mother of pearl stars...
Worn & Wound
Yema is fleshing out their young Traveller collection, which made its debut just last year, with a new family of integrated bracelet sport watches called the Urban Traveller. The new family is on-trend with a design that features the now familiar hallmarks of the genre, such as a flat link bracelet that integrates with the case, a flat octagonal mid case with single piece bezel, and a textured dial. Check, check, and check. The Urban Traveller does take a unique approach in a few ways, however, and more options of a good thing is, well, a good thing. Yema is a French brand that was founded in 1948, with an increasing selection of in-house labeled movements, which we’ve discussed before launched, somewhat curiously, via Kickstarter. The Traveller collection of watches have been no exception, with the template for the Urban Traveller, called the Wristmaster Traveller, hitting funded status in late 2022. That watch, which recalled Yema’s heritage with the use of the Wristmaster label, featured a colorful selection of in-house ultra-thin micro-rotor movements, a playful choice that set that watch apart from other integrated sport watches. The Urban Traveller takes a more direct approach to the design, using Yema’s YEMA2000 movement, which is around 80% in-house, instead of the colorful micro-rotor movements seen in the Wristmaster Traveller. This change means a slightly thicker case and a closed caseback, as well as a dramatic reduction in pricing. The ultra-thin Wrist...
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