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TGIF: Grand Seiko TOKYO TIME Pop Up in Singapore
Grand Seiko's Tokyo Time pop up is a curated experience where it immerses the audience in the dynamic contrast of Japan's capital with the Maison's watches.
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Worn & Wound
A Quick Look at the TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer
LVMH Watch Week has become the first of the blast waves of new releases we can expect every year. Siloed to one group, it leans toward the high end. Actually, very high end, with the most eye-catching releases relegated to Daniel Roth, Gerald Genta, and the eponymous Louis Vuitton, the latter of which actually had the most intriguing releases of them all. “Über collector” brands the lot; there’s plenty to appreciate, especially as they lean into haute-indie aesthetics. Yet, the lack of accessibility for us mere mortals takes a bit of the fun out of it. LVMH is not exactly known as an “approachable” luxury mega-conglomerate, but at least with Zenith and TAG Heuer in its portfolio, it has some brands that lean toward enthusiasts. After spending an afternoon with Hublot, Zenith, and TAG Heuer, getting to see a sample of novelties (it was pretty clear that all are holding back for Watches & Wonders), the watch that left the strongest impression a day later was TAG’s Carrera Seafarer. A follow-up to their 2024 Hodinkee collaboration, the major differences are the new color, which is exquisite, the “beads of rice” bracelet, and widespread availability. Having never encountered the Hodinkee collab in the metal, getting to try the Seafarer on for the first time left an impression. IMAGE COURTESY OF ANALOG/SHIFT For those unfamiliar with the Seafarer’s heritage, here’s a tl;dr: they were a line of chronographs that included a unique additional complication, a t...
SJX Watches
Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold
A. Lange & Söhne launched the Odysseus Honeygold last year and it’s easily the brand’s most luxe sports watch. Presented end to end in 18k Honeygold, this Odysseus is impressively well made, impressively heavy, and impressively expensive. I recently got the chance to spend some time with one of the 100 pieces made, and it was certainly a good experience. Initial thoughts The Odysseus was never a pretty watch, and this isn’t more visually appealing than the titanium or steel version. The design doesn’t have the finesse of its rivals, most notably the Royal Oak or Nautilus. But the Odysseus does have tactile and intellectual appeal, and that translates into physical attraction. The Odysseus is impressive like many Lange watches are thanks to its build quality. In Honeygold it looks and feels even more luxurious. The warmth and weight of the metal give it greater appeal, in fact Honeygold gives this a large-yacht-on-the-Mediterranean type of feel that its counterparts in more common metals lack. Look and feel aside, this has all of the strengths and weakness of the earlier versions. Strengths include the quality of course, as well as good ergonomics, which matter more here because of the weight. One of the weaknesses is the clasp, which is practical and easy to operate, but a little too large for a sports watch that is also supposed to be elegant. With a price tag of US$110,000, the Odysseus Honeygold is very expensive for what it is, even by Lange standards. But wha...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This New Mido Integrated Bracelet Watch Streamlines the Multifort 8 Formula
The new Mido Multifort 8 One Crown delivers a simplified integrated bracelet watch design powered by the brand’s Calibre 80 movement.
Fratello
Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence With A Hand-Guilloché Façade
Last year, Louis Vuitton introduced what Thomas called “a bold new effort.” He was right; the Tambour Convergence, a montre à guichet with a mirror-polished rose gold case, was a true stunner. This year, at LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton introduces an enhanced version of the Tambour Convergence. Its mirror-polished façade is now hand-decorated with […] Visit Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence With A Hand-Guilloché Façade to read the full article.
Video
10 Top Watchmaker's MOST Iconic Watches
Monochrome
First Look – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer Chronograph
For LVMH Watch Week 2026 in Milan, TAG Heuer introduces the Carrera Seafarer Chronograph, a contemporary re-edition of one of the brand’s earliest sailing watches. The Seafarer name dates back to 1949, when Heuer created the Solunar and Seafarer models for Abercrombie & Fitch. These were among the first mechanical watches to incorporate tidal information, […]
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Elevates the Escale Minute Repeater
Louis Vuitton sharpens its haute horlogerie credentials with the Escale Minute Repeater, a chiming complication paired with a jump hour and retrograde minutes display. Built around La Fabrique du Temps’s proven minute repeater calibre, the watch trades the previous Escale minute repeater’s world time function for a cleaner, more focused dial dominated by grey flammé guilloché. The result puts Louis Vuitton in direct competition with established players in complicated watchmaking, and comes complete with a discreet repeater slide hidden within the signature trunk-inspired lugs. Initial thoughts On the back of a strong 2025, Louis Vuittion doubles down on haute horlogerie, now in a more traditional case than last year’s Tambour. While the brand still offers the quartz Tambour Street Diver for just a few thousand dollars, Louis Vuittion’s ambitions clearly lie in the high-end. After years of strategic acquisitions and investments, the brand has the industrial base to compete and the know-how to do things its own way. The Escale Minute Repeater is the embodiment of Louis Vuitton’s ambitions, and is competitive with other minute repeaters from established haute horlogerie brands thanks to its modern movement and tasteful details. In short, it shows the brand understands the tastes of the day, and, more importantly, how to deliver a compelling package that leans into Louis Vuitton’s unique legacy and brand DNA. Furthermore, the minute repeater is something of a s...
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Returns Home with the Escale Worldtime
Louis Vuitton revives its emblematic Escale Worldtime complication with significant technical upgrades and metiers d’art craftsmanship. Powered by a new family of mid-sized movement from La Fabrique du Temps, the collection comprises two models distinguished by their decorative treatments: the standard Worldtime features a hand-painted flag disc reproducing the brand’s iconic trunk motifs, while the Worldtime Flying Tourbillon elevates the execution with an arduously made champlevé grand feu enamel city ring requiring 40 firings to achieve its kaleidoscopic palette. This reimagining of the worldtime complication draws directly from Louis Vuitton’s heritage of hand-painted personalised monograms on historical trunks - a visual language no other watchmaker can authentically claim - translating the brand’s trunk-making legacy into haute horlogerie. Initial thoughts Last year, Louis Vuitton launched a new line of high-end movements built and decorated to the standards of industrial-haute horlogerie automatics from the likes of Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe. These movements debuted in the Tambour Taiko Spin Time, a complication requiring a small-diameter movement - 23 mm in that case. Though finely made, these movements were arguably too small for a ~40 mm watch, as seen with the otherwise excellent Monterey re-issue. Demonstrating the impressive capacity of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Louis Vuitton has filled that void in its movement portfolio with a li...
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – The One-of-a-Kind Mercedes G-Class That Entered The Dakar Rally Four Times Can Be Yours!
Every year, in early January, my racing heart beats a little faster for a very simple reason. It’s the men and women who bravely try to conquer the desert on two, four or more wheels for days on end. Travelling thousands of miles through the toughest terrain, it’s not for the faint-hearted. And with the […]
Worn & Wound
VPC Introduces the Type 39VM, an Uncommonly Thin Dive Watch
Regular readers might remember our coverage of the debut watch from VPC almost two years ago. This was a special project as it comes from Thomas van Straaten, whose byline many of you may have seen over at his main gig, as a writer at Fratello. The Type 37HW, the debut release from VPC, was conceived as something as the ultimate enthusiast’s watch, with special attention paid to the small details that serious watch lovers are particularly attuned to. In practice, that means you end up with a watch that is very subtle, with lots of things that are special about it but perhaps don’t advertise themselves in big bold colors. VPC, after all, is an acronym for a Latin phrase that translates to “beauty through restraint,” and if that isn’t a mission statement of enthusiast focused watch culture, I don’t know what is. For the second VPC release, the brand is back with a watch that builds on the design language of the Type 37HW but shifts it specifically into the realm of the dive watch. The Type 39VM is, according to the brand, the thinnest 200 meter water resistant automatic dive watch on the market, which is a bold claim but seems to be backed up by a cursory review of the data. The case height is listed at 9.34mm, which is quite thin indeed for a watch like this. In keeping with VPC’s design principles, van Stratten set out to create a watch that was purely functional but also didn’t sacrifice ergonomics or aesthetics. Through an exploration of figuring out wh...
Video
Full Grade 5 Titanium Automatic Traveler GMT - TIMEX x The James Brand Limited Edition
Worn & Wound
Teddy Baldassarre and RGM Collaborate on the New 501
Many a modern watch collaboration is born from a combination of content creation and independent watchmaking; larger companies are often not as open to letting YouTubers or other creators see their inner workings, leaving microbrands and independents (who need the press) as the ideal subjects of mini documentaries and deep dives. Because of this, many creators forge relationships with the folks who run those smaller companies, which paves the way for collaboration efforts that go beyond YouTube or podcasts. Teddy Baldassarre is one of the most recognizable talking heads on horological YouTube, and has taken his passion into the world of retail as well, heading his own website and business and rocketing his name into upper reaches of watch enthusiasm. So, it makes sense that Baldassarre has sought to link his name with actual timepieces as well, and the new RGM Watch Co. 501 Teddy Baldassarre Edition hits the market as his second collaboration with an established watchmaker. Forged through a years-long friendship with RGM namesake Roland G. Murphy, the 5011 Teddy Baldassarre Edition takes the already eye-catching 501 model, and adds a touch of Baldassarre’s personality to the mix. First, though, it may be helpful to know a little bit about RGM as a brand: founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1992 by Murphy, an ex-Hamilton master watchmaker, RGM has long produced bespoke, custom-made watches with in-house movements. The company emphasizes domestic production of all part...
Monochrome
Introducing – The VPC Type 39VM, Claimed to be the Thinnest 200m Automatic Dive Watch
Young, independent Dutch brand VPC (Venustas Per Constantiam) returns with its next release, the Type 39VM, following its debut model, the Type 37HW. Founded by Thomas van Straaten, watch journalist at Fratello, collector, and now the founder of the design-driven microbrand, VPC was created around a beauty-through-restraint approach. After setting a standard with its hand-wound […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The RGM 501 Teddy Baldassarre Edition
RGM Watch Company is part of a small and exclusive club of American watchmakers that are truly vertically integrated. Based in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania, Roland G. Murphy’s atelier produces multiple in-house calibres and complex, hand-made Guilloché dials via antique rose engine lathes. Teddy Baldassarre is a huge figure in the watch community with over 1.3 […]
Hodinkee
Gatherings: UBS House Of Craft Celebrates Independent Watchmaking With Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier's Head of Americas, Charles Marin, joined Hodinkee's Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys for cocktails and a fireside chat in Palm Beach.
Hodinkee
UBS House of Craft Celebrates IWC Schaffhausen in Chicago
An evening of cocktails and conversation with IWC North America Brand President Stanislas Rambaud and Hodinkee's Mark Kauzlarich.
Video
I Brutally Reviewed Tom Segura's Watch Collection to His Face
Hodinkee
Gatherings: UBS House of Craft Celebrates Grand Seiko in Miami
An afternoon of Japanese horology with Grand Seiko Brand Curator Joe Kirk, Designer Akira Yoshida, and Hodinkee's TanTan Wang.
Worn & Wound
Editorial: Tudor at 100
Tudor turns 100 this year. The same age as Dick Van Dyke and American Airlines. Anniversaries like this are a big deal in the watch industry – we’ve just been through a year where both Vacheron Constantin and Breguet celebrated major milestones, each with a series of special releases. That’s the playbook for a watch brand: milk the year for as long as possible with new releases that feel special. It’s a sensible strategy given that it inherently leans into heritage and prestige, both ideas that have been proven to sell watches successfully for years. This isn’t meant to be a prediction of what might be in store for Tudor this year – plenty of outlets and watch media figures have already weighed in on that topic. We don’t have any inside information, of course, so any guesses as to what Tudor might do would be just that. My hunch, though, is that we won’t see obviously anniversary inflected pieces dropped throughout the year in the same way we saw from the likes of Vacheron and Breguet in 2025. It doesn’t feel like that’s part of the Rolex DNA that Tudor shares. I expect we’ll see some very subtle 100 year mentions in Tudor marketing, a special watch or two that is not explicitly tied to the anniversary but as recognized as honoring it just the same, and perhaps something a little more celebratory around Watches & Wonders or an athletic event that Tudor is involved in (there will of course be many of those throughout the year). What I’m much more int...
Fratello
Introducing: Hublot Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo
Hublot and Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto are back for a fourth collaboration. This limited edition celebrates the shade of black. For Yamamoto, this carries greater significance than the mere absence of color; it is a statement. The same goes for Hublot, making the Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo interesting from a design-philosophy standpoint. […] Visit Introducing: Hublot Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton
Though it was launched in 2022, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton still stands out within the catalogue for being the only Overseas in titanium. Vacheron Constantin (VC) has rolled out a pair of limited editions in the lightweight metal, a logical choice for sports watches, but the Overseas tourbillon, in both skeleton and conventional format, is the only regular production model. With its lightness and colour, the metal adds to the appeal of the Overseas tourbillon (which was already pretty good in steel). The skeleton version is further enhanced by the style and finishing of the movement, which is as good as expected of VC, and better than preceding calibres. Initial thoughts The Overseas tourbillon is a large watch and it feels large, but fortunately it is slim, giving it an elegant profile – which is how the best luxury-sports watches should be. Because it is in titanium – which is an uncommon metal for high-end sports watches – the watch is also light, even with the bracelet. This gives it an appealing feel on the wrist. The Overseas tourbillon looks good on its face, and is also surprisingly legible despite being skeletonised. The open-worked movement gives the watch a technical appearance that suits the material and purpose, while the prominent tourbillon showcases its haute horlogerie qualifications; the tourbillon is one of the most elaborately decorated elements of the movement. But one of the best traits of this watch is relative – the...
SJX Watches
Business News: Chanel Takes Stake in Kross Manufacture
Chanel has taken a 30% minority stake in Kross Manufacture, the industrial operation behind the watches of Kross Studio and several third-party clients. Though the investment has not been formally publicised, I reached out to the brand’s founder Marco Tedeschi who confirmed the investment and provided additional context on the strategy for Kross Manufacture. In short, the transaction continues Chanel’s long-running strategy of backing independent watchmaking infrastructure through minority investments, rather than pursuing full acquisitions or operational control. Initial thoughts While Chanel’s growing footprint across independent watchmaking is well documented, its investment in Kross Manufacture is notable for its manufacturing-first focus. Unlike brand-level partnerships, the stake is confined strictly to production capabilities, reinforcing Chanel’s long-term interest in securing specialised, high-end manufacturing capacity rather than expanding its portfolio of consumer-facing marques. In this sense, the investment can be viewed as similar to its 2019 investment in the Kenissi manufacture alongside Tudor. Equally significant is what the deal does not represent: there is no rapid industrial scaling planned. Instead, the investment appears designed to selectively expand capacity, allowing Kross Manufacture to continue serving both its in-house brand and more third-party clients without sacrificing the agility required to produce watches in very small quantities...
Video
The SHOCKING TRUTH of Buying A Rolex From Your Authorised Dealer! - Watch Dealer's HONEST Q&A;
Worn & Wound
Seiko Kicks off their 145th Anniversary Year with Four Limited Editions
I think it’s fair to say that for any watch enthusiast out there that Seiko has played some role in discovering this hobby. As a brand that encompasses a variety of styles and price points, anyone can be introduced to the brand at any level of their growing interest. Because of this, the Japanese watchmaker’s 145th anniversary feels particularly special for anyone who, like me, spent hours scouring eBay for a Seiko, and feeling, in a small way, like you’re a legitimate collector now that you’ve graduated away from the generic watch you grabbed at Wal-Mart on a whim. To celebrate this milestone, Seiko has released four limited-edition gold-accented models, across the King Seiko, Prospex, Presage, and Astron collections. While one may think that these four watches feel slightly disjointed when taken together, each showcases what Seiko does best: balancing form and function in equal measure without ever falling into the trap of ostentation. Take, for example, the King Seiko. This anniversary edition, which joins the KS1969 series, is the first of the four and nods directly to Seiko’s founder himself, Kintaro Hattori. The dial pattern is inspired by one that Hattori-san had engraved on his personal watches and is rendered here in a grey gradient that darkens towards the edges. Keeping with Seiko’s innate ability to add decoration without excess, we see the King Seiko has added gold-colored hands, indexes, and text for a bit of personality against the grey. Most not...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater “Epic Warriors”
Vacheron Constantin kept its team busy during its 270th anniversary year. Having put a tremendous amount of effort into the most complicated wristwatch ever made and a few other genuine novelties, many of the brand’s other releases, including several one-off Métiers d’art creations, were new versions of existing models. The Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin Homage to Epic Warriors is an example of the latter, introducing four one-of-a-kind grand feu enamel references to its otherwise simple (and thin) minute repeater platform. Heroic subject matter The ‘warriors’ set celebrates four famous warriors from across time. The series begins with the Homage to Alexander the Great, a pupil of Aristotle who conquered much of the eastern Mediterranean region (and beyond) in the fourth century BCE. From there, the inspiration gradually moves east, making its first stop in what is now Saudi Arabia, where a warrior poet named Antarah ibn Shaddad, now often known simply as Antar, made his mark about 1,500 years ago. The Antar reference was not available to photograph. No set of warrior-themed watches would be complete without an homage to the most legendary conquerer of all time, Ghengis Khan. That name is actually a title he adopted in 1206, and translates as ‘universal ruler’. The series concludes by looking east, to the land of the rising sun. Sasaki Moritsuna was technically a contemporary of Ghengis Khan, though he died when the future Mongolian ruler was just ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Chronograph vs. Chronometer: What is the Difference?
One of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: chronograph vs. chronometer. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. This is, again, the simplest way to look at it. But there’s a bit more to both chronometers and chronographs that a knowledge-hungry watch enthusiast might want to digest - including the fact that the terms are not interchangeable but also not mutually exclusive. [toc-section heading="Chronometers Defined"] Our original, classical definition of a chronometer can be traced back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to determine longitude in order to avoid the perils of running aground or veering hopelessly off course. The man credited with developing the first of these “marine chronometers” was legendary British watchmaker John Harrison; his invention facilitated the celestial navigation used at the time by navigators at sea to determine their ship’s position in coordination with a sextant. Marine chronome...
Monochrome
Editorial – Anniversaries and Milestones, What to Expect from the Watch Industry in 2026
What can we say… The watch industry is predictable. And like many industries linked to the production of luxury items, filled with icons of the past, watch brands love to celebrate milestones and anniversaries. Being emotionally driven products, playing on nostalgia has long proven an efficient strategy for watch brands. And don’t get us wrong, […]
SJX Watches
Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst
One of the most important complications of A. Lange & Söhne is undoubtedly the Zeitwerk. And the fanciest iteration of the digital watch is undoubtedly the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst. A limited edition of 30 pieces launched in 2012, this Zeitwerk is part of the Handwerkskunst collection of watches dressed up with hand-applied decoration – handwerkskunst being German for “craftsmanship”. One of Lange’s most important creations, the Zeitwerk is quirky, weird, yet appealing, especially in the first generation format; the Handwerkskunst is probably the pinnacle of that generation. Like a Labubu, it is weird but adorable. I recently got to spend an extended period of time with the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst, and I thought it worth revisiting. Initial thoughts Lange’s Handwerkskunst collection is eight-watches strong, but I rank the Zeitwerk and Datograph as the best, even though they are neither the most complex nor the most elaborately decorated, because the two models are amongst the brand’s most significant models (alongside the Lange 1). The Zeitwerk is historical for being one of the first digital-display watches – and probably the most reliable, still – and is visually distinctive enough to be one of Lange’s most recognisable models. Moreover, the Handwerkskunst version is not merely dressed up, but it also incorporates a novel escapement that Lange has not used in any other model except for the monumental Grand Complication (that is more complicated and impr...
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