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In Depth: Armin Strom Masterpiece 2 Minute Repeater Resonance
We go in-depth and hands-on with the Armin Strom Masterpiece 2 Minute Repeater Resonance, recently released on the brands 10th year under new owners.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Up close: Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Carbon
We go up close to the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Carbon, and give our review after living with the watch for two weeks.What is it like? We reveal all.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Restoring and Recasing a Vintage Patek Philippe Movement
In this article we will take a look at a special watch produced for a client in Singapore, which also happened to be a way to give new life to a loose movement that had long lost its case. Although this watch was recently finished, the project actually started many years ago. When searching for interesting movements to restore I came across a vintage Patek Philippe movement in Australia. It was probably produced between 1905 and 1910 for a pendant watch. I liked the style, shape and size; it reminded me a lot of the great pocket watches Patek Philippe used to do, but in wristwatch size. I thought it could one day make a nice wristwatch for someone appreciates its good old-fashioned quality. But the movement was missing the case – probably melted down in the past for the scrap value – while the dial and hands were beyond repair. So a potential customer would have to design those parts from scratch. Because the movement was in relatively bad shape and not running, I could even afford to buy it before finding a potential client. The beautifully classical movement looking for a home But several years later, a client came along. It was a husband and wife who had previously ordered another watch, a pocket watch conversion with an old Moser movement in a hand-made silver case with a sapphire dial featuring gold indexes and hand-made hands. The pocket watch was commissioned by the wife both as a wedding anniversary gift for the husband and as an heirloom to be ...
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Watchscapes: Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic Blue
We take a close look at the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet One Ceramic Blue with a Watchscape article, with wallpaper sized images within.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Here’s an introduction to F.P. Journe, with everything you ever wanted to know
F.P. Journe is an interesting case in the expanding landscape of independent watchmaking. For a watchmaker that produces around 900 pieces per year, the brand is seen in all the right places, regularly winning prizes at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, and producing a watch for the Only Watch charity auction for its last … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Here’s an introduction to F.P. Journe, with everything you ever wanted to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Interview: Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin
Over the past five years, a new generation of bosses has taken over the watch world. Many share common traits that distinguish them from the preceding generation of chieftains: a charming informality and a nose for courting the next generation of consumers – millennial and otherwise. Patrick Pruniaux is a leading member of his class, who was tapped to run Ulysse Nardin in August 2017. A year later, he was elevated to run Kering’s watch division, which meant taking on leadership of Girard-Perregaux as well. Mr Pruniaux has done a remarkable job of revitalising Ulysse Nardin – not just with fresh marketing, but more crucially with new watches that make sense. He’s streamlined the range of offerings and introduced more accessible watches, with much of his efforts focused on arguably the most important Ulysse Nardin watch of the modern era – the Freak. His strategy for the Freak is notable for being all-encompassing, ranging from aggressively affordable pricing with the Freak X, while pushing hard at the boundaries of material science and engineering, culminating in the Freak NeXt. The Freak X Mr Pruniaux took a surprisingly roundabout way to arrive at one of the top jobs in watchmaking. He started in drinks and spirits at Diageo and then Moët-Hennessey. He then entered the watch business with TAG Heuer, where he rose to lead retail and sales. But the most instructive phase of his watchmaking career, ironically, was at Apple. The computer maker r...
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New: F. P. Journe Centigraphe and Automatique Linne sport in Pt and 18k 6N gold
The F.P. Journe Centigraphe and the Automatique Réserve are now available in Platinum and 18K 6N Gold versions. This follows the earlier versions in Ti.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI - “Titanium Inverse”
Voutilainen’s signature watch is the Vingt-8, powered by the cal. 28, which is time-only but impressively constructed and beautifully finished. So earlier this year Voutilainen flipped the movement, inverting the calibre to have the interesting bits on the front, and relegating the base plate to the back. The result is the 28TI – short for “titanium inverse” – a watch that has all the trademark elements of a Voutilainen, gorgeous detailing and refined decoration, but is as over the top as a classical watch can be. Inverted movements are not new, they can occasionally be found in antique pocket watches, and over the last two decades they have gradually become fashionable in modern watchmaking. The pioneer in the current era is the Breguet La Tradition, though strictly speaking it is not an inverted movement since it was constructed from the ground up to look like a 19th century souscription pocket watch. Actually inverted is the Glashütte Original PanoInverse, and more recently, the Moritz Grossmann Backpage. But none of the other brands making such movements do so to the same quality as Voutilainen, making the 28TI unique in its class. The 28TI Telling time indirectly Mechanically the 28TI is largely similar to the standard cal. 28, with some changes in the construction for the flipped display. Additional gearing is required to drive the hands in the opposite direction, while also allowing for hand-setting via the crown. The changes start with a series o...
Revolution
Revolution Watch Podcast Ep. 11: Christian Selmoni
In this episode, we sit down with Christian Selmoni of Vacheron Constantin to delve into the brand’s past, from old vintage timepieces to its history of collaborations.
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Review: Rado Tradition Golden Horse Limited Edition
We take a look at remake of one of Rado's classic pieces of the yesteryear - the Rado Tradition Golden Horse Limited Edition.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph Stainless Steel Limited Edition
Is this really the Doxa we’ve all been waiting for?
Deployant
New: Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex Crazy Hours Pastels Asia Exclusive
Franck Muller extends the Crazy Hours collection with a set of 4 new watches in a pastel colour scheme to be available exclusively for the Asia market.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon
When Zenith unveiled the El Primero Defy 21 two years ago, it was a breakthrough for the brand, offering a 1/100th of a second chronograph with twin regulators for an affordable US$10,000 or so. This year the brand has kicked things up a notch with the El Primero Defy Double tourbillon, which essentially replaces the regular escapements with two tourbillons – one conventional and the other ultra-fast. The high-frequency evolution The new double tourbillon chronograph is a logical evolution of the classic El Primero – albeit accomplished with some help from TAG Heuer – that remained unchanged for decades. Unveiled 50 years ago, the El Primero was the first integrated automatic chronograph, and crucially, the first serially-produced, high-frequency chronograph running at 36,000 beats per hour (bph), allowing it to measure time down to the nearest tenth of a second. It would take 48 years for it to evolve into its first major iteration, the El Primero Defy 21 of 2017, which took the high-precision chronograph to its extreme with a monstrously high frequency of 50Hz, capable of measuring time down to a hundredth of a second. The Defy El Primero 21 launched in 2017 – an exotic chronograph for a basic price While it is true that a higher frequency regulator results in a higher resolution chronograph, it comes at a cost. An ultra-high frequency escapement requires tremendous energy, and the friction generated by the rapid motion of its components in turn mean more f...
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An exploration in details: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Huracán Performante
A close look at the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Huracán Performante, inspired by this iconic Lamborghini supercar. We examine the details and ask if its worthy.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom Chronograph
In 2014, Bell & Ross’ signature BR 01 design spawned a futuristic, ultra-graphic spin-off that would take the brand miles beyond the cockpit – the BR-X1. While the watch inherited the distinctive circle-within-a-square case modelled on aircraft instruments, from there the execution swerves radically away from the retro-military look of the original, with the BR-X1 taking on a greater complexity in both construction and style. Iterated into numerous variants in the five years since its launch – including a Renault Formula 1 edition and White Hawk – the BR-X1 is characterised by open-worked dial revealing a skeletonised chronograph module and a complex case made up of a combination of materials – here titanium and ceramic – with rocker-style pushers pivoted on one end. This year, Bell & Ross (B&R;) has unveiled one of the most striking iterations of the BR-X1 to date, the all-black Phantom. The BR-X1 Phantom Going dark Watches with black cases and dials are relatively common today, ironically thanks in part to one brand that resisted the genre so vehemently that it spawned an outlaw cult of aftermarket all-black watches. Even with the flood of black watches on the market, few have gone above and beyond in making everything on the watch black. The first truly all-black watch was the smash hit Hublot Big Bang of 2006, which was followed by hordes more. But the greatest irony of such watches is that the illegible colour palette results in an eminent...
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Helium Escape Valves, Explained
Is the HEV under pressure?
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Watches for a Graduation Gift, from Our Archives
In this week's Throwback Sunday article, we take a look at six watches that we reckon will make a good graduation gift for the new graduates.
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet Unveil Watches for Singapore Charity
As has become a tradition for Singapore children’s charity Kidz Horizon Appeal, its annual fundraising dinner will include an auction of one of a kind watches created especially for the event. Past auctions included timepieces by Audemars Piguet, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin and Voutilainen. This year’s line-up is made up of three watches from Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, and Louis Moinet, the proceeds from which will go to the charity that funds medical treatment for children from poor families. Inspired by the colours of the Greek island, the Franck Muller Vanguard Mykonos (also pictured above) is the first watch from a limited edition of 28 made for the brand’s retailer Sincere Watch, which donated the watch to Kidz Horizon. It’s a variant of Frank Muller’s popular sports watch, with a polished steel case that has an integrated strap and a white resin insert running lengthwise along its side. Inside is the FM 0800, an automatic ETA movement. Vanguard Mykonos Commissioned by an anonymous donor, Roger Dubuis put together the Excalibur Huracàn “Kidz Horizon”, based on the wristwatch inspired by Lamborghini’s V10 coupe. Ordinarily available only with a titanium case, the Kidz Horizon edition has a case made from a combination of lightweight materials: titanium for the bezel and back, and a skeletonised case middle in C-SMC carbon – the same carbon composite used in the Huracan. The red accents on the dial and bezel are also unique to ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Promaster NY009 ‘Fugu’ Limited Edition
A sporty, affordable timepiece experience with the kind of quality Citizen is known for.
Deployant
A closer look: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Self-Winding
Audemars Piguet introduction of the new Code.1159 has wrought a lot of criticism. Is the bad press valid? We examin the Self-Winding model.
Hodinkee
Found: An Omega Flightmaster Owned By Michael Crichton
A classic Omega owned by the master of hard sci-fi who brought us Jurassic Park.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Royal Canadian Air Force Chronograph, A Rolex 1960 Rolex Oyster Perpetual, And A Universal Geneve Monodatic
Your weekly round-up of the web's best watches is back!
Revolution
Very Briefly: Rolex Explorer (Vintage, Pricing)
A skeletal essentials-only guide to the Rolex Explorer, in mostly incomplete sentences.
Deployant
Happy 54th National Day to Singapore
We bring you greetings from our home in Singapore as we celebrate our 54th National Day. Enjoy the fireworks photographed during the rehearsals.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Invicta Bolt Review (Rainbow Case 25552): Quality Checking a Bad Design
What are we dealing with here? Despite the bad design, is there actual quality here? Is the Invicta Bolt constructed well? Or not?
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Five Of Our Best Summer Watch Reviews (2019 Edition)
Every one of these watches is ready for the sun and the surf.
Deployant
Review: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom
Bell & Ross revives the BR-X1 skeleton and provides an opportunity for those who fancy the watch a chance to own this piece. Here is the BR-X1 Phantom.
WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer Special Edition Review
The Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer special edition was made specifically by Tudor for the Swiss watch company based in Lucern; Bucherer. Founded in 1888, Bucherer is one of the oldest luxury Swiss watchmakers that is still run to this day by the founding family. Bucherer has up to twenty nine stores throughout Europe, with ten of them being in Switzerland alone. One of the stores located in Paris, is the worlds largest watch and jewellery store. In the lead up to the 130th anniversary for Bucherer, they released a collection with Bucherer’s signature colour, termed “Bucherer Blue”. Along with Tudor, this collection would see collaborations with other major brands such as IWC, Breguet, Oris, Tag Heuer and Roger Dubuis just to name a few. A total of 36 watches has been produced for the Bucherer Blue collection. The Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer special edition is almost identical to the original Heritage Black Bay Bronze aside from the aesthetic appearance between the two models. While the original Tudor Black Bay Bronze had great success with buyers and collectors in general, it offered little to people that wanted more colour depth/contrast on the watch. This is due to the dial on the Black Bay Bronze being matte brown with a brown bezel insert, followed by a bronze casing. While the watch does indeed look great and has its own appeal, the similarities in colour throughout the timepiece didn’t do the watch justice. That is until the Tudor Black Bay Bronz...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Pink Gold Dial
Earlier this year at SIHH 2019, Lange introduced a new variant of the ultimate chronograph, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in white gold with a pink gold dial. This follows the original from three years ago, that was in a stark combination of platinum with a black dial. When A. Lange & Söhne unveiled the Datograph in 1999, it was a statement to the world. The fact that the recently re-established Glashütte watchmaker was able to develop a new, high-end, in-house chronograph – something missing from rival brands’ catalogues – was a revelation for collectors and wake-up call for its competitors. The Datograph movement, the cal. L951.1, was not technologically groundbreaking – the construction and styling was largely inspired by classical pocket watch movements – but its combination of high-end features and vastly distinctive aesthetics, particularly compared to its Swiss counterparts, left everyone else’s chronograph in the dust. Even till today, Lange chronographs are still revered and firmly placed in the upper echelons of high horology. So was only natural that after the Datograph, the brand expanded the chronograph line-up, starting with a basic chronograph sans big date, to perpetual calendar chronographs, alongside the parallel collection of split-seconds that includes a double and even a triple rattrapante. Fashionable “salmon” The name explains it all: the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon is a manually-wound chronograph combined with a p...
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite New Watches Under $2,000
Some of the very best budget-friendly finds for your wrist.