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Editorial: Tudor at 100 Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Jan 13, 2026

Editorial: Tudor at 100

Tudor turns 100 this year. The same age as Dick Van Dyke and American Airlines. Anniversaries like this are a big deal in the watch industry – we’ve just been through a year where both Vacheron Constantin and Breguet celebrated major milestones, each with a series of special releases. That’s the playbook for a watch brand: milk the year for as long as possible with new releases that feel special. It’s a sensible strategy given that it inherently leans into heritage and prestige, both ideas that have been proven to sell watches successfully for years. This isn’t meant to be a prediction of what might be in store for Tudor this year – plenty of outlets and watch media figures have already weighed in on that topic. We don’t have any inside information, of course, so any guesses as to what Tudor might do would be just that. My hunch, though, is that we won’t see obviously anniversary inflected pieces dropped throughout the year in the same way we saw from the likes of Vacheron and Breguet in 2025. It doesn’t feel like that’s part of the Rolex DNA that Tudor shares. I expect we’ll see some very subtle 100 year mentions in Tudor marketing, a special watch or two that is not explicitly tied to the anniversary but as recognized as honoring it just the same, and perhaps something a little more celebratory around Watches & Wonders or an athletic event that Tudor is involved in (there will of course be many of those throughout the year). What I’m much more int...

Introducing: Hublot Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo Fratello
Hublot Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto Jan 13, 2026

Introducing: Hublot Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo

Hublot and Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto are back for a fourth collaboration. This limited edition celebrates the shade of black. For Yamamoto, this carries greater significance than the mere absence of color; it is a statement. The same goes for Hublot, making the Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo interesting from a design-philosophy standpoint. […] Visit Introducing: Hublot Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo to read the full article.

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton Though Jan 13, 2026

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton

Though it was launched in 2022, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton still stands out within the catalogue for being the only Overseas in titanium. Vacheron Constantin (VC) has rolled out a pair of limited editions in the lightweight metal, a logical choice for sports watches, but the Overseas tourbillon, in both skeleton and conventional format, is the only regular production model. With its lightness and colour, the metal adds to the appeal of the Overseas tourbillon (which was already pretty good in steel). The skeleton version is further enhanced by the style and finishing of the movement, which is as good as expected of VC, and better than preceding calibres. Initial thoughts The Overseas tourbillon is a large watch and it feels large, but fortunately it is slim, giving it an elegant profile – which is how the best luxury-sports watches should be. Because it is in titanium – which is an uncommon metal for high-end sports watches – the watch is also light, even with the bracelet. This gives it an appealing feel on the wrist. The Overseas tourbillon looks good on its face, and is also surprisingly legible despite being skeletonised. The open-worked movement gives the watch a technical appearance that suits the material and purpose, while the prominent tourbillon showcases its haute horlogerie qualifications; the tourbillon is one of the most elaborately decorated elements of the movement. But one of the best traits of this watch is relative – the...

Business News: Chanel Takes Stake in Kross Manufacture SJX Watches
Chanel Takes Stake Jan 12, 2026

Business News: Chanel Takes Stake in Kross Manufacture

Chanel has taken a 30% minority stake in Kross Manufacture, the industrial operation behind the watches of Kross Studio and several third-party clients. Though the investment has not been formally publicised, I reached out to the brand’s founder Marco Tedeschi who confirmed the investment and provided additional context on the strategy for Kross Manufacture. In short, the transaction continues Chanel’s long-running strategy of backing independent watchmaking infrastructure through minority investments, rather than pursuing full acquisitions or operational control. Initial thoughts While Chanel’s growing footprint across independent watchmaking is well documented, its investment in Kross Manufacture is notable for its manufacturing-first focus. Unlike brand-level partnerships, the stake is confined strictly to production capabilities, reinforcing Chanel’s long-term interest in securing specialised, high-end manufacturing capacity rather than expanding its portfolio of consumer-facing marques. In this sense, the investment can be viewed as similar to its 2019 investment in the Kenissi manufacture alongside Tudor. Equally significant is what the deal does not represent: there is no rapid industrial scaling planned. Instead, the investment appears designed to selectively expand capacity, allowing Kross Manufacture to continue serving both its in-house brand and more third-party clients without sacrificing the agility required to produce watches in very small quantities...

Seiko Kicks off their 145th Anniversary Year with Four Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Seiko Kicks off their 145th Jan 9, 2026

Seiko Kicks off their 145th Anniversary Year with Four Limited Editions

I think it’s fair to say that for any watch enthusiast out there that Seiko has played some role in discovering this hobby. As a brand that encompasses a variety of styles and price points, anyone can be introduced to the brand at any level of their growing interest. Because of this, the Japanese watchmaker’s 145th anniversary feels particularly special for anyone who, like me, spent hours scouring eBay for a Seiko, and feeling, in a small way, like you’re a legitimate collector now that you’ve graduated away from the generic watch you grabbed at Wal-Mart on a whim. To celebrate this milestone, Seiko has released four limited-edition gold-accented models, across the King Seiko, Prospex, Presage, and Astron collections. While one may think that these four watches feel slightly disjointed when taken together, each showcases what Seiko does best: balancing form and function in equal measure without ever falling into the trap of ostentation. Take, for example, the King Seiko. This anniversary edition, which joins the KS1969 series, is the first of the four and nods directly to Seiko’s founder himself, Kintaro Hattori. The dial pattern is inspired by one that Hattori-san had engraved on his personal watches and is rendered here in a grey gradient that darkens towards the edges. Keeping with Seiko’s innate ability to add decoration without excess, we see the King Seiko has added gold-colored hands, indexes, and text for a bit of personality against the grey. Most not...

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater “Epic Warriors” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater “Epic Warriors” Jan 6, 2026

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater “Epic Warriors”

Vacheron Constantin kept its team busy during its 270th anniversary year. Having put a tremendous amount of effort into the most complicated wristwatch ever made and a few other genuine novelties, many of the brand’s other releases, including several one-off Métiers d’art creations, were new versions of existing models. The Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin Homage to Epic Warriors is an example of the latter, introducing four one-of-a-kind grand feu enamel references to its otherwise simple (and thin) minute repeater platform. Heroic subject matter The ‘warriors’ set celebrates four famous warriors from across time. The series begins with the Homage to Alexander the Great, a pupil of Aristotle who conquered much of the eastern Mediterranean region (and beyond) in the fourth century BCE. From there, the inspiration gradually moves east, making its first stop in what is now Saudi Arabia, where a warrior poet named Antarah ibn Shaddad, now often known simply as Antar, made his mark about 1,500 years ago. The Antar reference was not available to photograph. No set of warrior-themed watches would be complete without an homage to the most legendary conquerer of all time, Ghengis Khan. That name is actually a title he adopted in 1206, and translates as ‘universal ruler’. The series concludes by looking east, to the land of the rising sun. Sasaki Moritsuna was technically a contemporary of Ghengis Khan, though he died when the future Mongolian ruler was just ...

Chronograph vs. Chronometer: What is the Difference? Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 5, 2026

Chronograph vs. Chronometer: What is the Difference?

One of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: chronograph vs. chronometer. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. This is, again, the simplest way to look at it. But there’s a bit more to both chronometers and chronographs that a knowledge-hungry watch enthusiast might want to digest - including the fact that the terms are not interchangeable but also not mutually exclusive.  [toc-section heading="Chronometers Defined"]  Our original, classical definition of a chronometer can be traced back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to determine longitude in order to avoid the perils of running aground or veering hopelessly off course. The man credited with developing the first of these “marine chronometers” was legendary British watchmaker John Harrison; his invention facilitated the celestial navigation used at the time by navigators at sea to determine their ship’s position in coordination with a sextant. Marine chronome...

Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jan 1, 2026

Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst

One of the most important complications of A. Lange & Söhne is undoubtedly the Zeitwerk. And the fanciest iteration of the digital watch is undoubtedly the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst. A limited edition of 30 pieces launched in 2012, this Zeitwerk is part of the Handwerkskunst collection of watches dressed up with hand-applied decoration – handwerkskunst being German for “craftsmanship”. One of Lange’s most important creations, the Zeitwerk is quirky, weird, yet appealing, especially in the first generation format; the Handwerkskunst is probably the pinnacle of that generation. Like a Labubu, it is weird but adorable. I recently got to spend an extended period of time with the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst, and I thought it worth revisiting. Initial thoughts Lange’s Handwerkskunst collection is eight-watches strong, but I rank the Zeitwerk and Datograph as the best, even though they are neither the most complex nor the most elaborately decorated, because the two models are amongst the brand’s most significant models (alongside the Lange 1). The Zeitwerk is historical for being one of the first digital-display watches – and probably the most reliable, still – and is visually distinctive enough to be one of Lange’s most recognisable models. Moreover, the Handwerkskunst version is not merely dressed up, but it also incorporates a novel escapement that Lange has not used in any other model except for the monumental Grand Complication (that is more complicated and impr...

Fratello Instagram Favorites 2025: Which Watches Received The Most Likes, Comments, And Views? Fratello
Dec 30, 2025

Fratello Instagram Favorites 2025: Which Watches Received The Most Likes, Comments, And Views?

We’re closing in on a new year and rounding off 2025. RJ will shine his light on the past year in an article tomorrow. However, I thought it would be nice to take a look at which posts became the most popular of the year on our Fratello Instagram account. Besides, while writing this article, […] Visit Fratello Instagram Favorites 2025: Which Watches Received The Most Likes, Comments, And Views? to read the full article.

Hands On: Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM01575 SJX Watches
Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM01575 Dec 29, 2025

Hands On: Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM01575

The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 is one of the most unconventional perpetual calendars on the market, combining the brand’s military-inspired emphasis on legibility and robustness with a high-spec, crown-operated perpetual calendar movement designed for daily wear. Housed in a hard-wearing 44 mm Platinumtech case and powered by the P.4100 calibre, the PAM01575 challenges expectations for what a Panerai can be, applying the brand’s utilitarian DNA to one of watchmaking’s most respected complications. A user-friendly perpetual calendar Panerai is a brand rooted in its identity as a supplier of watches and dive instruments to the Italian navy. The brand’s utilitarian aesthetic, with bold dial markings and a distinctive crown guard, earned it a cult following in the early 2000s, and while some of the enthusiasm of that era has waned, the designs remain as recognisable as ever. Military watches are usually designed to be legible and robust, user-friendly traits that make them appealing to civilians. User-friendliness is something of a complication in its own right, and in some ways is one of the final frontiers of movement design. This includes both legibility, and the priority of information on the dial, and functionality, ensuring that the movement is easy to operate and resilient against mishandling. These issues are especially present when it comes to perpetual calendars, which must present a lot of information; George Daniels famousl...

Sunday Morning Showdown: A Look Back At Our Favorite Battles Of 2025 Fratello
Dec 28, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: A Look Back At Our Favorite Battles Of 2025

As the year draws to a close, it is time to look back at some of our favorite Sunday Morning Showdowns of 2025. The series has become a Fratello tradition by now. Every Sunday morning, two Fratello writers go head to head, defending their watches of choice. This year, we have witnessed another series of […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: A Look Back At Our Favorite Battles Of 2025 to read the full article.

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak One Dec 22, 2025

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak

One of the standout releases from Dubai Watch Week was the UR-Freak, a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin (UN) and Urwerk that embodies some of the most enduring motifs of each brand. More UN than Uwerk, the UR-Freak nonetheless incorporate’s the latter’s satellite wandering hours display, adapted to the Freak’s slow-moving flying tourbillon. A limited run of just 100 individually numbered pieces, the UR-Freak confers some of Urwerk’s disruptive cache to UN, a legacy brand celebrating its 180th anniversary next year. The wandering hours tourbillon To understand why the UR-Freak is such a compelling collaboration, one must understand what UN and Urwerk bring to the table, respectively. The UN Freak turns 25 in 2026, marking a quarter-century of the quirky tourbillon that introduced silicon to watchmaking. That innovation alone would have secured the Freak’s place in watchmaking history, but it was arguably more memorable for its unusual design that put much of the movement (including the escapement) on a rotating platform on the dial. The Freak One is an example of the typical Freak architecture. Ulysse Nardin refers to this architecture as a flying carousel, perhaps to differentiate the standard models from those with a nested tourbillon. Nomenclature aside, it’s technically a tourbillon by nature of its operation, which powers the escapement through a fixed-ring gear (which can be seen around the edge of the dial). In all previous Freak models to date, the mo...

First Look - The Voutilainen 28MPR, the Farewell Edition to the Exceptional Vingt-8 Series Monochrome
Voutilainen 28MPR Dec 19, 2025

First Look - The Voutilainen 28MPR, the Farewell Edition to the Exceptional Vingt-8 Series

Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected names in independent watchmaking. Since founding his atelier in 2002 in the Swiss Jura, the Finnish-born genius has been creating timepieces that combine the best of traditional craftsmanship with true mechanical ingenuity. His watches won’t be mistaken for someone else’s work, with elaborate guilloché dials, exceptional finishing […]

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Citizen Going off-grid doesn’t have Dec 19, 2025

The Going Off-Grid Gift Guide with Citizen

Going off-grid doesn’t have to mean disappearing completely. Sometimes it’s simply choosing tools that don’t demand attention, like watches that run accurately, clearly, and indefinitely, so you can step away from screens, notifications, and the constant pull of “what’s next.” Very few watch brands create products with a high degree of different technologies, each designed to help you need to connect less, not more. Whether it’s Eco-Drive or Atomic Timekeeping, the Citizen watches below are built to operate independently, allowing you to unplug with confidence and focus on being present, making them a perfect gift for someone who deserves a break. We’ve paired each watch with gear that extends this idea, stuff that’s supportive, thoughtful, and intentionally uncomplicated. The post The Going Off-Grid Gift Guide with Citizen appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Topo Designs Global Briefcase Review: A Versatile 3-Way Work Bag That Switches Between Backpack and Messenger Worn & Wound
Dec 18, 2025

Topo Designs Global Briefcase Review: A Versatile 3-Way Work Bag That Switches Between Backpack and Messenger

When I’m planning to leave the house for a full day – whether I’m headed to work or someplace else – I’m a chronic overpacker. To me, there’s peace of mind in knowing I have an extra charger, granola bar, or jacket with me, especially when returning home isn’t easy. Traveling to the office adds an additional layer of expectation when considering a bag, as I bring multiple laptops and a lunch with me most days.  I’ve gone back and forth on whether I’m Team Messenger Bag or Team Backpack when it comes to my corporate 9 to 5. I like the significant storage options that a backpack offers and the stability and comfort it provides when walking long distances. Yet messenger bags fit my usual style in a better way, and I like that I can access the main compartments while on the go (not possible with a backpack). I was really intrigued by the Global Briefcase  ($149) from Topo Designs as it meant I didn’t have to commit to one camp or the other. I was curious if the brand could do both modalities equally well. My needs in a work bag are very different from my needs in an outdoor bag. The Topo Designs Rover Trail Pack I reviewed in May held all of my gear in a stacked, vertical fashion. I didn’t need to access anything particularly urgently, which meant I loaded the bag from the top down. This sort of set-up isn’t ideal for my work needs though, when I prefer all of my items to have their own space. To test out this bag, I used both carry styles over a few ...

The Watch Lord Nelson Left Behind SJX Watches
Hamilton their daughter Horatia Dec 17, 2025

The Watch Lord Nelson Left Behind

When Sotheby’s closed its Fine Watches online auction in London on December 17, the Victory Watch made by James McCabe and presented to Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson by the officers of HMS Victory sold for £152,400, fees included; below the low estimate. The price was unexpected for an object with an unusually intimate Nelson provenance: a gift from his officers that belongs to Nelson’s last weeks on land, before his victory and death at the Battle of Trafalgar, and to the choice he made to keep the watch at home. The Victory. Image – Sothebys (Turner, the battle of Trafalgar) Wikipedia Understanding the Victory The case bears the presentation inscription, “Pres. to Adml. Lord Nelson By the Officers of HMS Victory Aug 20 1805”. That date sits in the hinge of his final summer. Nelson had returned to England after a long, grinding command, and the country treated him as a national hero. He slipped away to Merton Place in Surrey to live, briefly, in the domestic scene he valued: a house shaped around his wife, Emma Hamilton, their daughter Horatia, and the familiar ritual of guests, dinners, and the small civilities of being ashore. The officers who commissioned the watch gave it to the man they knew at sea, and to the man they sensed existed elsewhere; the man who also wanted beauty, music, and calm within reach. Within a fortnight the strategic situation tightened. News that the French and Spanish fleets had combined at Cádiz brought recall. On September 14, 1805,...

Orion Watches Founder Nick Harris on Growing His Brand Through Adversity Worn & Wound
Seiko modder Dec 15, 2025

Orion Watches Founder Nick Harris on Growing His Brand Through Adversity

I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that most of you reading this right now won’t know the name Nick Harris. Don’t worry, I’m not calling anyone out; if you weren’t a dedicated Seiko modder on the right forums at the right times, it’s not a name you’re likely to have come across. Nick, despite being an accomplished watchmaker and avid enthusiast, just isn’t as well-known as the brand he created, Orion Watches. It’s not a huge surprise. As enthusiasts, we tend to have a better memory for brands and watches than we do for people (how many of us have pulled some variation of the classic, “I can’t remember his name, but he had that great vintage Sub”), and that tendency easily extends to brands, even small ones. It’s easy to forget that many of the brands we talk about on Worn & Wound, and so many of the watchmakers that get us excited, aren’t really “brands” in the typical sense. Many of our favorite brands aren’t machines operating with marketing departments, state-of-the-art production facilities, and overflowing C-Suites. What we broadly call “brands’ are usually the result of the passionate work of one, or maybe two, dedicated creators, their brand names and logos serving more as a personal maker’s mark than as an identifier for a sprawling and impersonal corporate structure. The consequence here is that it can be easy to conflate these small one-man shops with their more established brethren. That can make it particularly diffi...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tank Américaine Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Dec 14, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tank Américaine Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds

Good morning, Fratelli, and welcome to a new Sunday Morning Showdown. Grab a cup of coffee or tea, something sweet, and sneak up somewhere next to the Christmas tree. This week, we’ll put two watches up against each other that could both perfectly serve as Christmas dinner watches. They’re both rectangular with silver dials and […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tank Américaine Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.

First Look - Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Salmon Brings A New Pulse of Colour Monochrome
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Dec 12, 2025

First Look - Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Salmon Brings A New Pulse of Colour

Armin Strom’s celebrated Gravity Equal Force series expands with an elegant twist, the Ultimate Sapphire Salmon. Continuing the brand’s exploration of colour and transparency, this latest edition pairs technical mastery with artisanal finesse, featuring a hand-guilloché salmon mainplate and the brand’s innovative constant-force calibre, bringing new vibrancy to one of modern horology’s most inventive movements. […]

A Guide to Hand-Finished, Métiers d’Art Dials Worn & Wound
Dec 12, 2025

A Guide to Hand-Finished, Métiers d’Art Dials

At Worn & Wound, we admire watches for their functionality and ability to withstand whatever life throws at them. But we also celebrate the practice of beauty! As such, handcrafted dials, or Métiers d’Art dials, are often considered the pinnacle of human craftsmanship in the field of watchmaking. Independent French watch brand AWAKE has made this its calling card by embracing a bold and contemporary take on exceptional craftsmanship. By reimagining traditional techniques, AWAKE brings out their essence in the service of creativity. Each piece in its Handmade collections features a unique dial that celebrates the passage of time and the beauty of things made to last, inviting you into the world of workshops, traditions, and time-honored craft that keep cultural heritage alive. Presented by Worn & Wound and AWAKE, this guide takes you on a journey to discover some of the most impressive craft techniques used in watchmaking today by sharing a few exceptional examples of each. So sit back, grab a loupe, and enjoy. Sơn Mài The use of lacquer in Asia stretches back thousands of years to ancient China and Japan, but Vietnam also developed its own unique branch of the art called sơn mài. Initially used as a protective material for everyday items like furniture, religious artifacts, and even architecture, it gradually transitioned from a primarily functional practice to an artistic one. During the Lý and Trần Dynasties, between the 11th and 14th centuries, the use of sơn...

Hands-On: the Tissot PRX Damascus Steel 38mm - One of the Biggest Surprises of 2025 Worn & Wound
Tissot PRX Damascus Steel 38mm Dec 11, 2025

Hands-On: the Tissot PRX Damascus Steel 38mm - One of the Biggest Surprises of 2025

It’s pretty uncommon for a watch line to maintain top-of-mind relevance with the watch community for more than a couple of years. Trends change, the hype spotlight shifts, and newness becomes necessary. We’ve seen brands try to push watches past their expiration points, resulting in diminished excitement and inevitably disappointing. With that said, one line that has endured far longer than I would have expected and is still going strong is the Tissot PRX. Launched in 2021, the PRX was an early entry into the affordable integrated sports watch category, which has also lasted longer than I would have bet. Yet despite being “several” years old, Tissot continues to surprise with updates to the PRX line, keeping it genuinely exciting. Smartly, they haven’t just used it as a throwback line, but rather to experiment with materials that typically come with a higher price tag. Notably, last year they made a forged carbon-fiber version that was lightweight and stealthy. While a material that had come downstream, so to speak, in the years prior, it was still unexpected from Tissot. But 2025’s entry wasn’t just surprising for Tissot; it was surprising for any large-scale brand, especially an affordable one. If you told me I’d be wearing a Damascus steel Tissot that cost $1,175 a few years ago, I would have said, “shut your face!” Just kidding, but I would have been immensely skeptical. An artisanal material, often seen in knife making, it’s scarcely used in watc...

The Urwerk UR-230 Goes Dark SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Dec 10, 2025

The Urwerk UR-230 Goes Dark

Urwerk’s latest satellite-display creation, the UR-230 Black Star, builds on more than two decades of the brand redefining the wandering hours complication. A concept first teased in the Harry Winston Opus 5 and later perfected in the UR-210, the retrograde-satellite display has become synonymous with Urwerk’s identity, and the Black Star demonstrates how far the idea has come. With a lightweight fibreglass-reinforced ceramic case, the Black Star is a 35-piece limited edition that looks to be the final instalment of the UR-230 series. Initial thoughts Urwerk didn’t invent the wandering hours display, but the brand deserves credit for dragging the complication into modernity in the late 1990s. While the brand has dabbled in watches with conventional hands, it’s still the satellite time display that carries the essence of Urwerk’s DNA. The UR-230 traces its roots back to the 2012 launch of the UR-210, which introduced the retrograde frame that travels with the satellite cube for hours. The concept for a retrograde hand paired with wandering hours dates back even further, to the 2005 launch of the Harry Winston Opus 5, which was also designed by Urwerk. While the concept has subsequently been elaborated with the UR-150 Scorpion, the UR-230 still looks strikingly advanced even after all these years. The latest black-and-yellow livery seems to be the flavour of the day, closely matching the brand’s recent collaboration with Ulysse Nardin. The signature detail of the...