Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Cubitus In 40mm
A slightly downsized Cubitus captures exactly where we are on the watch-design timeline.
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Hodinkee
A slightly downsized Cubitus captures exactly where we are on the watch-design timeline.
Monochrome
Watches with integrated bracelets and elegant-sports designs remain popular. While the hype seems to have cooled slightly, the category continues to be very competitive, but also creative. From big watchmaking brands refining icons to young independents challenging the rules, 2025 has produced a stellar mix of timepieces that combine innovation, design, and craftsmanship. We’ve selected […]
Worn & Wound
For decades now, watch collectors have become enamored with the significance, popularity, and (perhaps most importantly) the absurd affordability of Soviet-era watches. There’s the ingenious Vostok Amphibia dive watch; the various Poljot and Strela chronographs vital to the Russian space program; and the minimalist, glossy-white Raketa Big Zero that signified “the end of history.” What’s lesser known are the timepieces from another part of the Iron Curtain-East Germany, which once encompassed two of the most significant areas of the historic watch industry. Today we associate German watches with the town of Glashütte, where Walter Lange set up a watchmaking school in 1841 and evolved it into one of the great horological houses. Meanwhile, about 300 kilometers to the west is the town of Ruhla. Like Glashütte, Ruhla was also known for metal mining and a tradition of blacksmithing and metalworking. After World War II, it also happened to fall into the Soviet occupation zone, even though it was as far west as one could get. Perhaps it was always fated for this. Image via Ostalgie-Ruhla: Watches of the GDR Both sides faced the evolution of pocket watches to wristwatches, on opposite sides of the World Wars. After 1945, the watch factories in Glashütte and Ruhla were reorganized into publicly-owned enterprises-having endured reparations back to Moscow (to jump-start the USSR’s own watch industry) and the general devastation of the war. Glashütte was a mor...
Monochrome
The unabating appeal of pilot and military watches stems from several factors. The nostalgic, historical association of this genre with WWI and WWII pilots and soldiers is one factor, but so is the robust, utilitarian build of these watches, paired with uncluttered, high-contrast dials that prize legibility. 2025 has seen its fair share of cockpit […]
Time+Tide
Baltic's latest take on its Scalegraph, produced to commemorate the French Transat Café L’Or yacht race, is designed as a skipper’s tool.The post Baltic’s Scalegraph takes to the high seas with the Transat Café L’Or Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Fratello
In the case of Pragma, being called a goody two-shoes is a plus. Typically, the moniker describes someone who is prudish and self-righteous. A goody two-shoes is an ambitious overachiever striving to be perfect; remember that one teacher’s pet in your class in high school who nobody liked? Behaving excessively virtuously can be off-putting in […] Visit Hands-On With The New Pragma P1 – Perseverance In Solar Stainless Steel And Tantalum With A New Azurite-Blue Dial to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
How does one define a “sleeper” watch? We put together a guide a few years ago and basically came to the conclusion that a sleeper watch is one that is great but not obvious about it. A better framing might be that these are “if you know, you know” watches. They all have some attribute that makes them incredibly special but it’s not always readily apparent or widely understood. Honestly, I love a sleeper and always have. I think it’s a natural focus for a collector, and as you see more and more watches, it paradoxically becomes more difficult to identify the sleepers, because nothing really “sleeps” when you’re highly engaged in a hobby like this. Zenith G.F.J. The Zenith G.F.J. is a sleeper because it’s so specific and so hard to see, it’s just not really out there all that much in the broader watch media landscape. But man, it’s great. It’s a tribute of sorts to Zenith’s history as true pioneers in chronometry, but the appeal for this watch to me is purely aesthetic. It’s a study in blue, with multiple tones in multiple materials and finishes. From a distance, it’s nice looking enough, but you really have to examine it close up, with a loupe, to get a sense of the contrasts and how special the use of lapis lazuli is in particular. And then there’s the bracelet. The G.F.J. is rendered in platinum, and the case is fantastic, but on the full platinum bracelet (which effectively doubles the price of the watch) it really makes an impr...
Worn & Wound
While not my style, I can see the appeal of a skeleton-style watch–it’s admittedly engrossing to watch the internals of your timepiece tick away, and an exhibition caseback can only show so much when it’s plastered to your wrist. So, I am not the target audience for watches like the new Maurice Lacroix Label Noir Aikon Manufacture Skeleton, but if you are, I’ll do my best to give you all the juicy details. Founded in Zurich in 1975, Swiss watch brand Maurice Lacroix is known for stylistically brash and boundary-pushing watches; even their tamer models tend to feature bright colors or adventurous materials, and they have quite a few creative skeleton pieces in their catalogue, particularly in their Aikon line. The new Aikon Manufacture Skeleton, in collaboration with Geneva-based Label Noir, pushes that ethos ever-forward. Measuring in at a large-and-loud 45mm in diameter and 12mm in height, the black DLC-plated stainless steel case bears dual-segments at every other hour, framing the sapphire skeleton dial. A screw-down crown ensures 100 meters of water resistance, and two provided straps shake up the aesthetic profile of the watch: the gray leather strap gives it a much more subdued look, while the turquoise rubber alternative lends it a much louder persona. Translucent black varnish on the sapphire dial gives the watch an almost smoky look at the edges, and creates a highlight point of clarity in the middle of the dial, where the turquoise-plated hands meet. ...
Time+Tide
Seiko had plenty of wins in 2025, but the three watches we've chosen best represent the essence of the ever-popular Japanese brand.The post The three Seiko releases of 2025 that actually mattered appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Year after year, the popularity of the dive watch category shows no signs of decreasing. A classic for most brands and a must-have in any serious collection, owning a dive watch is always a great option for summer or weekends, even though most of us won’t even take it deeper than the bottom of a […]
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Time+Tide
The trailer for the upcoming James Bond video game, 007: First Light, teases an unreleased Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph.The post The most interesting Omega watch of 2025, that hasn’t actually released… yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The final round of the second Louis Vuitton Watch Prize competition will commence in the spring of 2026. The initiative aims to support and celebrate independent watchmakers who challenge convention. It highlights creativity, technical mastery, and a strong personal vision. That’s not just a clever way of connecting the brand name to some serious horological […] Visit Announced: The Finalists For The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Independent Creatives 2025–2026 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Behind the scenes with one of the top business podcasts in the world.
Hodinkee
The new model is starting to be delivered, and it's more than just another kind of green dial. We go in-depth to compare old vs. new.
Worn & Wound
Travel watches have been on the absolute rise in recent years. Where dive watches were once the default option for a first sports watch, GMTs, dual times, and world timers have been making a credible play for wrist time with enthusiasts of all strata. There are practical reasons for this - movements like the Miyota 9075 and Seiko NH34 have made including a GMT complication in a watch more affordable than ever - but I think practical reasons only scratch the surface of this precipitous rise. To tell the whole story, you have to look for the romantic. There’s an inherent appeal in travel watches. They’re optimistic and remind us to stay interested in the world even when we’re stuck at home, or work, or in the myopia of day-to-day life, when the little things around us stop us from looking further. I think this appeal was only reinforced by a mandatory two-year stay inside, at home, and I don’t think it’s by chance that our collective release back into the world post-COVID coincided with the rise of the travel watch. I mean, sure, in a world where our phones automatically adjust to new time zones, and most people’s preferred travel watch is an Apple Watch, mechanical travel watches (or, really, analog - there are some pretty stellar quartz offerings to be had, you don’t need to look further than the Timex Q Continental GMT for evidence of that) may be more talismanic than necessary, but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. So, with all that ...
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Deployant
Reviewing the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose. An indepth look into the maison's latest watch that whispers "discreet luxury".
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A hands-on Citizen Nighthawk review from a collector who’s owned it twice, covering wearability, the JDM variant, and why it still works.
Monochrome
For globetrotters jumping across time zones, the most useful travel companion is a GMT or a more sophisticated world timer. Although cynics will counter that argument by whipping out a mobile phone or a smartwatch, there is nothing as reassuring and personal as your very own travel watch. Thanks to Louis Cottier’s ingenious solution in […]
Fratello
It’s gifting season, and Jaeger-LeCoultre serves up a tantalizing prospect in the form of the Master Control Classic. Despite the 1950s aesthetic, the “Classic” in the name pays homage to early Master Control watches of the 1990s. This era is becoming a burgeoning nostalgia kick in the watch industry for buyers entering their 50s. Okay, […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
So much to say! As you can tell I was quite impressed indeed with the Grande Double Sonnerie, as well as with the transparency with which Blancpain welcomed enthusiasts and writers.
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Worn & Wound
I’m long on record saying the mark of a genuine enthusiast is being able to get just as excited about a $100 Timex or G-Shock as about a $100,000 Rolex or Patek. I still think there’s something to that. Still, I also recognize that summing it up so patly, though convenient, ignores a huge amount of the nuance that undeniably exists in the watch space. It also ignores some of the fundamental impacts of price, including, crucially, attainability. After all, there are very few enthusiast pursuits (or, really, pursuits of any kind) where price and pursuit can be wholly siloed, and watches are not some rare example where we can afford to be price agnostic - at least, not most of us. Still, once in a while, it can be fun to just say screw it and enjoy watches for what they can be at their most extreme. Which brings us to the topic of today’s 2025 round-up, “F**k You Money” watches. The concept of a “F**k You Money” watch can be a bit nebulous. Unlike dive watches or chronographs, say, which either are or are not what they say they are, there’s no real set definition for what qualifies as “F**k You Money,” but like Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart and pornography, I may not be able to specifically articulate what qualifies as a F**k You Money watch, but I know it when I see it. gérald genta Geneva Minute Repeater You thought I was gonna start with some crazy Richard Mille or Jacob & Co., didn’t you? Well, this probably isn’t going to be that kind of...
Monochrome
More a complication than a category or style of watch per se, the chronograph still ranks high in brands’ portfolios. As the end of the year is fast approaching, it’s time for the MONOCHROME team to elect its favourite watches of 2025, and that includes the best chronographs we’ve seen over the year. Plenty of […]
Hodinkee
How exactly does one fully automate the making of a mechanical movement?
Worn & Wound
I was recently looking back at the year with my husband and roughly calculated that I had been away from home on business two out of the last twelve months. Considering I have a full-time job and have hardly missed a deadline, this seems somewhat implausible. But, in reviewing my Google Calendar, it seems to be true: New York a handful of times, Germany twice, Mexico, New Orleans, Boston, Philadelphia…I can go on, but you get the idea. For me, I have maintained a love-hate relationship with travel. I love bragging about it on social media; but I hate having to work while away from my cozy little writing studio I keep in a nearby town. It’s stressful for me, having gotten into a routine of total silence and minimal distractions, to be filing an article from a hotel room with spotty Wifi or one too close to the elevator. And while it may seem glamorous to be tapping away about fashion week while waiting to board a plane, I can assure you I’ve been nearly brought to tears by my neighbor next to me watching a TikTok video without headphones – a level of hell that even Dante couldn’t have fathomed, if you ask me. But that’s the thing when you travel for work: you actually have to work while you’re traveling. And this is especially so for those in creative jobs, where missed deadlines, unanswered emails, and rushed articles can ultimately have an impact on your paycheck. On more than one occasion, I’ve had to buy WiFi on a flight (not expensed, mind you) to file ...
When the Tudor Ranger was reintroduced in 2022, it represented a missing element to the Tudor catalog. It represents a bygone era of watchmaking from Tudor and Rolex, with watches like the Oyster Prince, and Rolex Explorer 1016, to significant effect. During Dubai Watch Week 2025, they surprised us with an extension to
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