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WATCH SPOTTING: Hublot, IWC and Richard Mille in Drive To Survive season three Time+Tide
Richard Mille Mar 20, 2021

WATCH SPOTTING: Hublot, IWC and Richard Mille in Drive To Survive season three

Season three of Drive to Survive dropped at 6pm Melbourne time on Friday March 19th and, if you were anything like me, then you were up until 4am watching the entire series in one sitting. Okay, so maybe you’re not that obsessed, but if you’re even a little bit like me then your eyes were … ContinuedThe post WATCH SPOTTING: Hublot, IWC and Richard Mille in Drive To Survive season three appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak “Jumbo” in Platinum and Green SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak “Jumbo” Mar 19, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak “Jumbo” in Platinum and Green

Conceived as a home-like atmosphere – and located in more discreet locations than traditional boutiques – AP Houses are key to Audemars Piguet’s retail strategy. And now the handful of AP Houses around the world have their own exclusive edition, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in platinum with a smoked green dial. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 15202 is an iconic design, and one of the genuine instances where the label is applied correctly. It’s also thin and elegant, while having a substantial presence. And the cal. 2121 inside is an old but impressively sophisticated calibre. But the Jumbo is also one of the hottest watches today, and its desirability has long become disconnected with its intrinsic qualities. Being platinum, the latest version is extremely expensive, but also extremely attractive. The weight and lustre of the metal – especially combined with the fine case finishing of the Royal Oak – gives it tremendous tangible appeal. And the green dial, while not novel (it isn’t a modern-day invention but H. Moser is today’s best practitioner of the smoked finish), looks good. The new Jumbo is, in short, a beautiful watch that’s going to be rather hard to obtain. House exclusive There are seven AP Houses around the world, including in New York, London, Hong Kong, and Bangkok, which will be the only venues to obtain the new Jumbo. Production will be limited to 100 watches in the first year, which means each AP House should get about two a...

3 New Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Models For 2021: Sky Blue, Green, And Yellow, All In Ceramic Cases Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Mar 18, 2021

3 New Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Models For 2021: Sky Blue, Green, And Yellow, All In Ceramic Cases

The Grande Seconde is an iconic Jaquet Droz model. It’s a wristwatch interpretation of a historic Jaquet Droz pocket watch from 1748 featuring two overlapping dials forming a graceful figure eight. The Grande Seconde is as classic a Jaquet Droz as they come, but the Skelet-One, while retaining the same dial layout, is anything but classic. Ian Skellern takes a closer look at three new models from this surprising line for 2021.

Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership with Marvel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership Mar 18, 2021

Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership with Marvel

Audemars Piguet just announced many of the year’s new launches during Inside AP, a virtual presentation anchored by chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias and head of complications Michael Friedman, which also included something more intriguing – a partnership with Marvel and its band of superheroes. Hinted at when I interviewed Mr Bennahmias in 2019 – the announcement originally slated for a June 2020 – the tie up was decades in the making. According to Mr Bennahmias, he had envisioned a tie up with Marvel, the film studio and comic-book publisher that owns characters like Spider-Man, Iron Man, as well as the Avengers and X-Men, some 15 years ago. He only managed to set it in motion in 2017, thanks to American actor Don Cheadle, best known for playing War Machine in the Iron Man and Avengers film series. Friends with Mr Bennahmias for a decade, Mr Cheadle set up a meeting with Marvel executives that year, and also took part in today’s Inside AP presentation. Francois-Henry Bennahmias (left) and Don Cheadle Coming soon to a watch near you. Image – Marvel Studios Mr Bennahmias noted the Marvel partnership was inspired in part by the Fantasy watches of Gerald Genta that featured Disney characters like Mickey Mouse. Coincidentally, Marvel is now owned by The Walt Disney Company, making it a realisation of his ambition in more ways than one. More details about this tie up will be revealed in April during an event in Los Angeles. Stay tuned.  

De Bethune’s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets a Blued Meteorite Dial SJX Watches
De Bethune s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets Mar 17, 2021

De Bethune’s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets a Blued Meteorite Dial

Introduced to commemorate the 10th anniversary of De Bethune’s signature watch, the DB28XP is a pared-back, slimmer and more wearable take on the original model, though still instantly recognisable with its trademark pivoted lugs. Now De Bethune unveils the most exotic variant of the watch to date, the DB28XP Meteorite. It retains many of the elements the brand is known for, but the highlight is a brilliantly blued meteorite dial. Meteorite dials are common, even on inexpensive watches, but De Bethune’s meteorite is unlike any other in watchmaking. Though the material is just like any other meteorite, it has been heat-treated, creating a blue oxidisation that gives it a special blue sheen. Initial thoughts De Bethune is one of my favourite independent watchmakers – I love the Kind of Two Tourbillon from earlier in the year. Innovation is its raison d’etre, and the new DB28XP Meteorite exemplifies that, both technically and aesthetically. While heat-blued titanium is a De Bethune hallmark, heat-blued meteorite takes the look to a whole new level. The gold-studded “starry sky” dial captures the cosmos on the wrist. Though the look is very different, the DB28XP Meteorite has all of the wearability of the standard model. It has sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to cling to the wrist, while also being more compact than the original, full-size DB28. The brand has previously utilised the blued meteorite in the Dream Watch 5 and Kind of Blue Meteorite – both sp...

Alain Silberstein Reveals a Quirky, Bauhaus Clock SJX Watches
Louis Erard Mar 17, 2021

Alain Silberstein Reveals a Quirky, Bauhaus Clock

An architect turned watch designer, Alain Silberstein was a star of the 1990s, being perhaps the most avant-garde watch brand of the decade. The Frenchman’s quirky and geometrical designs were the diametrical opposite of the classical style that was then the industry norm. Though his eponymous brand shut down a few years ago, Mr Silberstein is still active as a designer, most recently collaborating with Louis Erard on an affordable, regulator-style watch. Now he is making a comeback in a big way – literally. With the help from French clockmaker Utinam, Mr Silberstein has taken the cover off the Kontwaz Bauhaus 2, KB2 for short. A monumental skeleton clock, the KB2 is available in two versions: a 2 m high standing timekeeper, or in a compact, wall-mounted form. The KB2 wall clock Alain Silberstein Initial thoughts The KB2 is not Mr Silberstein’s first foray into clocks. He designed several other versions of the Kontwaz Bauhaus in the 1990s, which were produced by a French clockmaker and occasionally pop up on the secondary market today. That makes the new KB2 is a pleasant surprise that harks back to his earlier career. As with most Silberstein creations, the appeal of the KB2 lies in the design, which is complex and distinctive, yet composed of simple shapes. The geometrical forms and colours are lightly arranged in harmonious whole – an impressive feat, for a lesser designer would have just created a mishmash of elements. The standing KB2 The key for winding ...

Why Watchmaking Still Matters During A Pandemic – Reprise Quill & Pad
Mar 17, 2021

Why Watchmaking Still Matters During A Pandemic – Reprise

If you’re like GaryG, you’ve been spending some time during the current pandemic-driven lockdown monitoring online watch publications, including Quill & Pad, and you’ve likely seen at least a few comments in response to posts that go something like this, “How in the world can you possibly be focused on something like watches at such a terrible time?” Well, Gary is here to tell you.

Why servicing a vintage Rolex will only get harder and more expensive Time+Tide
Rolex will only get harder Mar 17, 2021

Why servicing a vintage Rolex will only get harder and more expensive

You’ll have heard this about vintage watches before: tread carefully when you have these pieces serviced and who you allow to work on them. With Rolex, in particular, you’ll be aware of the dangers of having the factory service their vintage watches and the horror stories of these coveted watches losing the elements that make … ContinuedThe post Why servicing a vintage Rolex will only get harder and more expensive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Debuts Watch Subscription Programme SJX Watches
Breitling Debuts Watch Subscription Programme Mar 16, 2021

Breitling Debuts Watch Subscription Programme

The subscription model – where customers pay for access, but not necessarily ownership – is familiar, and increasingly prevalent. Spotify and Netflix are amongst the best known examples, but subscriptions are now found in fashion – a new wardrobe weekly – and even automobiles, with Porsche Drive that offers a new car every month. And now also in watches: Breitling becomes the first major watch brand to offer a subscription with BreitlingSelect. More accurately, BreitlingSelect is a combination of a subscription and instalment payment plan. It starts with the wearer rotating amongst a handful of trial watches over a year, while paying a monthly fee. But at the end of the year, the total fee paid can be put towards buying one of the watches worn during the trial. Initial thoughts Watch subscription isn’t novel. New York-based ElevenJames launched with much fanfare in 2013, before shutting down quietly five years later. There have been plenty more similar services offered in several of the world’s major watch markets, but few have been sustainable. Consumers quickly realise it makes more sense to save for a watch, rather than paying subscription fees, which are by nature hefty since the timepieces being subscribed to are luxury watches. Breitling clearly believes that its subscription service can buck that trend. The crucial difference between BreitlingSelect and everything that has come before is the brand – BreitlingSelect is being offered by the watch manufa...

Conversation: Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 16, 2021

Conversation: Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne

Having taken charge in A. Lange & Söhne at the end of 2010 – while the brand was still suffering from the effects of the 2007-2008 Financial Crisis – Wilhelm Schmid has now been the German watchmaker’s chief executive for a bit over a decade. He did not join Lange from within watchmaking, instead he was recruited from a German luxury brand of another sort, the carmaker BMW. But in the decade since Mr Schmid has carefully and steadily developed the brand, and in the process become one of the longest-tenured – and highly regarded – leaders in the watch industry. From its modern-day foundation in 1994, Lange made watches of first-class quality. That, along with the ethos of the brand, has been preserved, but at the same time, Mr Schmid has deftly evolved the brand’s image, in both product and communication – the Odysseus being an obvious example – bringing its peerless quality recognition amongst a broader audience. The brand’s success in recent years has translated into robust demand for its products – a good problem to have but one that Mr Schmid apologises for, as you’ll find out below. I spoke with Mr Schmid over Zoom last month, and enjoyed a wide ranging conversation that looked back on the last 10 years, as well as forward, where he notes e-commerce is now a certainty for Lange, but online exclusives are not. Zooming with the Odysseus The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: How has Lange been coping with the disruptions of 2020? Wil...

De Bethune Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Double-Faced Split Personality With Floating Lugs (Video) Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching Mar 15, 2021

De Bethune Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Double-Faced Split Personality With Floating Lugs (Video)

De Bethune highlights that there is more than one way to rotate a watch, using its floating lug system to perfection in the new DB Kind of Two Tourbillon. Look out, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching the blue tourbillon escapement beating away in high-def macro video is simply captivating: you'll want to watch it over and over and over.

Review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Mar 15, 2021

Review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds

Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds In a world dominated by round wristwatches, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso stands out as among the most recognisable non-round timepieces in the market. Deemed by many connoisseurs as a must-have watch in any collection, the success of this reversible, rectangular watch is not just down to its timeless design, butRead More

Jason Statham shows that action heroes still wear Panerai Time+Tide
Panerai While Panerai was founded Mar 15, 2021

Jason Statham shows that action heroes still wear Panerai

While Panerai was founded way back in 1860, its rise to prominence came on the back of a very specific type of celebrity: the action hero. It was thanks to the likes of Sylvester Stallone and Arnold Schwarzenegger that brand awareness soared following wrist-bound cameos in films like Daylight, Eraser, Rambo IV and The Expendables … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham shows that action heroes still wear Panerai appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hiding in plain sight – 6 sleeper hit watches you might have missed Time+Tide
Mar 14, 2021

Hiding in plain sight – 6 sleeper hit watches you might have missed

You don’t always have to look to the usual suspects or pay a hefty price to get a quality watch. There is a wide spectrum of manufacturers in this industry and, with so many releases each year, it can be a bit of a challenge to follow every reference introduced. While the below list of … ContinuedThe post Hiding in plain sight – 6 sleeper hit watches you might have missed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 ‘Shrink And Pink’ Watches Highlighting How To Do It Well (None Of Which Are Actually Pink) Quill & Pad
Mar 12, 2021

5 ‘Shrink And Pink’ Watches Highlighting How To Do It Well (None Of Which Are Actually Pink)

“Shrink and pink” is a relatively recent term to describe how watch brands sometimes use a men’s watch as a base for making a timepiece more oriented toward the female consumer. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares five watches whose makers employed the “shrink and pink” tactic so successfully that she would wear them in a heartbeat. And spoiler: none of them are pink.

Dammit, I wasn’t supposed to buy this Sinn U1 DS, but I just did… Time+Tide
Sinn U1 DS but I Mar 12, 2021

Dammit, I wasn’t supposed to buy this Sinn U1 DS, but I just did…

When we talk about what attracts people to watches, you may typically expect the response to be the movement. But when it comes to the larger marketplace, arguably the most important element, aside from case diameter, is the dial. The dial is what catches your eye first. As much as some people jest they would … ContinuedThe post Dammit, I wasn’t supposed to buy this Sinn U1 DS, but I just did… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch tattoos have become a bizarre new trend. What is wrong with people? Time+Tide
Mar 12, 2021

Watch tattoos have become a bizarre new trend. What is wrong with people?

Paw prints, Celtic bands, bows on thighs, pretty much anything inked on the face… There’s no shortage of tattoo choices that are questionable at best and watch tattoos represent yet another baffling sub-category. After all, if you want to visibly declare your passion for a particular brand or model, there’s a straight-forward way to do … ContinuedThe post Watch tattoos have become a bizarre new trend. What is wrong with people? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Twenty~4: Complete Overview Of Two Decades Of Timeless Elegance Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Complete Overview Mar 11, 2021

Patek Philippe Twenty~4: Complete Overview Of Two Decades Of Timeless Elegance

Versatility was at the top of Patek Philippe’s thoughts when the firm designed the Twenty~4. The goal was to achieve “a beautiful expression of today's contemporary woman” by creating a watch that can accompany women all day long. Hence the “24” in its name. Martin Green takes us through 20+ years of this now-iconic pillar collection.

Independent Watchmaking Showcased Virtually SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Dual Dufour Duality Much Mar 11, 2021

Independent Watchmaking Showcased Virtually

A leader retailer of independent watchmaking, Singapore-based The Hour Glass has just inaugurated The Persistence of Memory, a virtual exhibition dedicated to the craft. Covering the period starting from 1970 till today, the exhibition encompasses most of the key figures in independent watchmaking during those five decades. And it is about people, rather than brands, since these timepieces are often, quite literally, the creation of a watchmaker’s mind and hands. I wrote most of the content, and it was written as a brisk journey through the careers of each watchmaker, along with their most important timepieces. The Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain Hosted on a dedicated site, the exhibition is arranged into sections and largely chronological, tracing the evolution of the craft from its start with individuals like George Daniels, to the stars of today, most notably Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia. Other boldface names in the exhibition include Francois-Paul Journe, Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, and Denis Flageollet. A trio of Resonance by F.P. Journe Dual Dufour Duality Much of the content is illustrated by uncommon and special watches – over 150 in fact – drawn from collections around the world. The line up of timepieces include the two landmark pocket watches by George Daniels, the Space Traveller I and Grand Complication, as well as the most important examples of Philippe Dufour’s work. Visit the exhibition on Thehourglass.com.