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Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement

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Louis Erard’s Latest is a Regulator with a Traditional Grand Feu Enamel Dial Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s Latest May 29, 2024

Louis Erard’s Latest is a Regulator with a Traditional Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Swiss watchmaker Louis Erard has recently collaborated with Donzé Cadrans, a veteran in the enamel dials field since 1972. As a first for Erard, the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel model is adorned for the first time with a traditional grand feu enamel dial. This partnership shows an expansion for the Swiss brand into new territory – and done with impeccable taste.  The use of grand feu enamel here marries technical precision and artisan craftsmanship. Each dial has to be made by hand, involving a meticulous process where layers of enamel are applied and fired at temperatures exceeding 800°C. This technique not only ensures vibrant and long-lasting colors but also demands an exceptional level of skill and patience, as even the slightest imperfection can require the entire piece to be redone. The result is a unique and exquisite timepiece, where no two dials are exactly alike, showcasing the harmony between tradition and innovation in watchmaking. The Le Régulateur model has an ivory-colored grand feu dial against the polished stainless steel case, giving a classic look for just about any occasion. The dial also features an hour and seconds counter subdials stacked at both the 12 and 6 o’clock mark. The colors are offset with a vibrant blue that both contrasts and marries the look together. With an automatic movement running on a Sellita SW266-1 calibre, you’ll have no trouble keeping time with this watch. The Régulateur is pulled together with a grey grained cal...

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Tissot Introduces an Affordable Skeleton Automatic SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces May 22, 2024

Tissot Introduces an Affordable Skeleton Automatic

Tissot added to the Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette collection of accessibly-priced skeleton watches. Sharing the same exact case design as last year’s updated model, the trio of new additions have open-worked dials that display the inner workings of the Powermatic 80 calibre. Both the styling and movement are no-frills, and matched with a price below US$1,000, making them a good option for the beginner enthusiast. Initial thoughts Tissot is known for affordable Swiss-made watches and the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is exactly that. The novelty of the watch lies in the open dial that reveals the skeleton movement. Although the calibre isn’t fancily executed, it is cleanly finished and provides visual detail that sets this apart from most similarly priced watches. The design is also enhanced by the fact that it doesn’t have a date, which gives the dial a clean, symmetrical appearance. Priced between US$895 and US$975, the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is a good value proposition, especially since skeleton watches are not common in this price segment. Entry-level skeleton While the sporty PRX collection is now its most high profile product, the brand overhauled the Chemin des Tourelles line last year. Named after the street where the Tissot headquarters are located, Chemin des Tourelles is made up of dress watches, with the skeleton model being the top-of-the-line. The Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton has a case that’s 39 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm thick, with a domed ...

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Highlights: Complicated Pocket Watches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet all May 19, 2024

Highlights: Complicated Pocket Watches at Phillips Hong Kong

The upcoming Phillips watch auction in Hong Kong includes the expected offerings from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, but more unusually an impressive line-up of complicated pocket watches – almost all from the same owner. Though the number of pocket watches is small, the selection is particularly notable in terms of quality, complications, and condition. We look at a quartet of impressive pocket watches in the sale, including two important watches that are not Swiss but built on Swiss ebauches: a 1930 L. Leroy grand complication with a four-digit year indicator and the massive, 63 mm Charles Frodsham minute repeating split-seconds chronograph with tourbillon. With the exception of the Audemars Piguet, all the pocket watches were consigned by the same collector, who also owns the unique Patek Philippe ref. 767 grand complication with double-split seconds. The auction takes place on May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), and the online catalogue is here. The Frodsham double complication with tourbillon 876 – L. Leroy & Cie. Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Leroy” is a storied name in French watchmaker that began with Basile Le Roy (1765-1839), who was a contemporary of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823). Like Breguet, Le Roy was clockmaker to royalty, including Napoleon. But this Leroy pocket watch was made by the firm of L. Leroy & Cie. founded by Louis Leroy (1859-1934), who was not related to Le Roy but worked for the ...

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Brew Teams Up with Alton Brown for the Limited Edition Retrograph Relic Worn & Wound
Brew Teams Up May 10, 2024

Brew Teams Up with Alton Brown for the Limited Edition Retrograph Relic

The success story that is the Brew Watch Co. is one of our favorites in the entire industry. Jonathan Ferrer’s brand has grown well beyond its initial humble scope over the course of the last few years with a series of releases that have transcended the microbrand bubble, gaining admirers from every corner of the watch community. With Brew, it all comes down to the design, and every new watch proves once again that you don’t need to spend a fortune to own something unique and genuinely special. Brew’s latest release calls back to the brand’s foundation in coffee themed designs while treading new ground with a high profile collaborator. The new Retrograph Relic, released in partnership with Alton Brown, feels like a full circle moment for the brand, and for watch fans who came of age watching “Good Eats” it offers a ton of charm.  What we have here is a Retrograph, Brew’s signature Meca-Quartz chronograph, with a special oxidized dial that has been treated to express what Brew calls an “espresso-esque patina.” The tones of brown form randomly on the dial during the process, so each of the 250 pieces in this limited edition is unique.  Alton Brown’s involvement makes sense on a few levels. First, he’s a very notable watch guy, having appeared on Hodinkee’s Talking Watches all the way back in 2017, and being the subject of watch-spots from the Instagram community for even longer. Secondly, if you know his work on “Good Eats,” you know that he tak...

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Fratello On Air: Overreacting To The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith And Other Watches Fratello
TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith May 10, 2024

Fratello On Air: Overreacting To The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith And Other Watches

This week, Fratello On Air returns on its non-normal day because your co-hosts have been under the weather. We’re both on the mend, though, and happy to be on the airwaves. In this episode, we cover several topics, but our main discussion centers on the recent TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith releases. We try […] Visit Fratello On Air: Overreacting To The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith And Other Watches to read the full article.

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Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle Fratello
Cartier Showing How It’s Done? May 10, 2024

Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle

We have heard quite a few complaints from brands about the watch market recently. Many are struggling from economic uncertainty and a serious correction after lockdown-induced all-time highs. One brand, however, seems to be on a bit of a winning streak. According to Morgan Stanley, Cartier overtook Omega as the second-largest Swiss watchmaker behind Rolex […] Visit Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle to read the full article.

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Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces May 6, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition

Tudor recently revealed another competitively priced chronograph, this time designed for the Tudor Pro Cycling Team participating in the 2024 Giro d’Italia. The Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” is based on the chronograph made for the Alinghi sailing team and features the same carbon composite case. But the aesthetic is more understated, mostly black with touches of red. Initial thoughts Tudor’s recent support for the sport, including the sponsorship of its cycling team and recruitment of Swiss champion cyclist Fabian Cancellara as a brand ambassador, meant a cycling-centric watch was on the way. Although the Tudor cycling team members were issued a special-edition Black Bay Chrono last year, that watch was not available to the public. Now the team gets a new watch, which is also publicly available. In contrast to the equivalent Alinghi edition, the cycling chronograph has a more subdued, streamlined look that’s mostly monochromatic. The absence of overt cycling branding also adds to the appeal (in contrast, the Alinghi chronograph has the team branding on the inner flange). Save for the design changes, this is identical to the Alinghi edition. Unsurprisingly, the price is also similar at US$5,275. True to the brand’s ethos, the value proposition remains excellent considering the carbon composite case, high-spec movement, and overall quality. Last year’s Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” Cycling-ready The Cycling Edition is latest version...

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New: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith Deployant
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith DEPLOYANT May 4, 2024

New: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith

The TAG Heuer Formula 1, first launched in 1986, was a popular and accessible sports watch that many from the '80s and '90s would recognize. TAG Heuer has recently introduced the Formula 1 Kith Limited Edition, which is a true-to-original reissue of the Series 1, co-created with the streetwear brand Kith. This special edition comes in ten vibrant versions, and it’s uniquely branded as “Kith Heuer,” signifying the partnership. The Kith logo takes the place of the traditional “TAG” in the watchmaker’s emblem, marking this collaboration.

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Introducing: The 2024 Releases From Naoya Hida - Including A Rectangular Grail Candidate Fratello
Naoya Hida May 4, 2024

Introducing: The 2024 Releases From Naoya Hida - Including A Rectangular Grail Candidate

Japanese independent watchmaking has a particular charm, often showing a spare yet intricate way with dials and small-cased sensibility. With a few quietly released collaborative efforts, Hida-san’s main focus is on a small output of orders. Nevertheless, the 2024 releases from Naoya Hida & Co. show a more extroverted side to the brand coming through. […] Visit Introducing: The 2024 Releases From Naoya Hida - Including A Rectangular Grail Candidate to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor Pro Cycling Team Edition Fratello
Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor May 4, 2024

Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor Pro Cycling Team Edition

Tudor has announced the release of a special FXD chronograph. The Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor Pro Cycling Team Edition commemorates the brand’s relationship with the Tudor Pro Cycling Team (a Swiss professional development road bicycle racing team that participates in the UCI Europe Tour). It should come as no surprise if this latest release from […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor Pro Cycling Team Edition to read the full article.

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Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” for Miami GP SJX Watches
Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic May 3, 2024

Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” for Miami GP

Days before the Miami Grand Prix, Tudor announced a pair of special watches specifically for the event: the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” issued to Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB). With a rainbow-hued dial that draws inspiration from the credit card of the team’s main sponsor, the two watches match the VCARB cars that have been dressed in a rainbow livery only for the Miami GP. They follow the quiet unveil in February of the Black Bay Ceramic with a blue dial made for the VCARB team at large.  The Chameleon on the wrist of Daniel Ricciardo. Image – Visa Cash App RB Initial thoughts While the first VCARB edition was discreetly launched, this new pair was officially announced by Tudor. Unlike the earlier edition though, these are one-off creations intended for the drivers to wear during the Miami GP. While Tudor has produced numerous collaborative special editions over the years, this stands out for its unusually colourful dial that stands in contrast to the no-fuss aesthetic Tudor often employs. With a dial reminiscent of tie-dye shirts of the 1960s, the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” sports an unorthodox aesthetic for a “tool” watch. Although the look is decidedly atypical for the brand, it’s striking and surprisingly appealing, though it will certainly be polarising. The Black Bay “Chameleon”, however, is not available to the public, making the appeal a moot point. The Miami GP-specific livery of the V...

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Nomadic Introduces the Turas 914 Landfall Worn & Wound
Nomadic May 2, 2024

Nomadic Introduces the Turas 914 Landfall

Belfast’s Nomadic Watch Company was named after the last remaining White Star Line ship in the world, and the nomadic pursuit of new horizons. Their long-term ambition is to eventually make all their watch components in Ireland, except for the Swiss movements that power them. Their first step towards this goal was opening their state-of-the-art watch assembly and testing facility in Belfast in 2023. Until then, their cases and other components are produced by a world-class supplier in Asia, which far exceeds the capabilities of anything available locally. Turas is an Irish Gaeilge (pronounced Gwal-gah) term, which means journey, expedition, or pilgrimage. What a fitting name for a watch line that is all about exploration. New for 2024 is a Numbered Edition of their Turas 914 line in Emerald Green called Landfall. With this watch, Nomadic wanted to pay homage to explorer Ernest Shackleton and his wingman, Tom Crean. Both shining examples of determination and leadership in the face of overwhelming odds against survival. The new Nomadic Turas 914 Landfall measures 39mm in diameter, 11mm thick, 47.5mm from lug-to-lug and has a 20mm strap width. It has a flat sapphire crystal, with anti-reflective coating and is water resistant to a depth of 100m, making this one a great all around go anywhere do anything watch. Beating at the heart of the Landfall is the revered Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, which has a power-reserve of up to 41 hours. The bracelet features screw in li...

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Hands On: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary SJX Watches
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon May 2, 2024

Hands On: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary

You can never be too rich or too thin – a quote attributed to Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, but it might as well have come from Piaget, which just debuted the thinnest tourbillon wristwatch in history, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary. Covered in-depth at launch, the AUC Tourbillon is just 2 mm thick, including the case and crystal; that makes the watch thinner than a Swiss five-franc coin. While its record-breaking dimensions are headline-grabbing, it’s the watch’s overall design and ergonomics that make it look and feel almost miraculous on the wrist. The AUC Tourbillon next to the five-franc coin; it’s also slimmer than the two-franc coin, and equivalent to about 20 sheets of A4 printer paper Initial thoughts Record-chasing, whether in terms of thickness, weight, water resistance, or complications, is a common theme in the watch industry, but the results are often gimmicky and impractical. When I heard that Piaget would be introducing the thinnest tourbillon in history, I rolled my eyes. But my perspective changed as soon as I picked up the AUC Tourbillon, a moment that stands out in my memory as a highlight of Watches & Wonders 2024. The watch is thin, of course, but the immediate impression is one of substance; it feels far more substantial than it looks. This is in part due to the M64BC cobalt alloy case, the extreme rigidity of which makes the watch’s 2 mm thinness possible. Furthermore, the ergonomics of the case, which is...

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Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces May 2, 2024

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute”

A tribute to the German city of Dresden, the PanoMaticInverse Limited Edition depicts the city where the predecessor of Glashütte Original was founded in 1845. It retains the inverted movement construction that characterises the model, displaying the escapement on the dial, but here the three-quarter plate on the front sports a hand-engraved rendering of Dresden landmarks, the Frauenkirche and Academy of Fine Arts, while the bridges on the reverse are engraved with the Elbe promenade. Initial thoughts Although the brand itself was founded after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Glashütte Original (GO) has its roots in the very beginning of watchmaking in the Glashütte area. Because the brand was formed from the East German state-owned watchmaking enterprise, it was vertically integrated from the beginning, making it a true manufacture. It is somewhat under-appreciated compared to its neighbour, A. Lange & Söhne, although the two brands focus on different segments of the market, with Glashütte Original offering more affordable timepieces. The brand’s steel watches, for example, usually retail for under US$15,000. However, GO is capable of German haute horologerie, as demonstrated by its top-of-the-line timepieces like the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. The PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” is one of the brand’s high-end offerings, with a retail price of US$47,400. Even though that’s a big number, the watch delivers substantial tangible quality. In addition to th...

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Kith and TAG Heuer Debut a Collection of Ten New Formula 1 Limited Editions Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Debut May 1, 2024

Kith and TAG Heuer Debut a Collection of Ten New Formula 1 Limited Editions

For a certain generation (OK, it might be a micro-generation) of watch collector, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 looms impossibly large. The colorful quartz watches, made from a combination of steel and fiberglass, debuted in 1986 at a time of great upheaval in the Swiss watch industry. This the first watch produced under the TAG Heuer banner, and a meeting of Heuer’s racing heritage and their new partner’s focus on emerging technologies in watchmaking. The watches were a sensation, and an affordable entrypoint for many into a rabbit hole that, as we all know, goes very deep indeed. Original F1 watches have become incredibly collectible over the years, and a new collaboration brings back the spirit of those watches in a way that should be incredibly satisfying to enthusiasts who grew up on the F1.  Launching today, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 x Kith brings back the iconic Formula 1 design language in a series of limited edition releases. Ronnie Fieg, Kith’s founder, is a noted fan of the Formula 1 and a longtime collector, and the bold color and strong design codes of the original F1 overlap with much of what Kith is working to accomplish throughout their apparel and sneaker collections.  As with any update of a much loved watch from the past, it’s interesting to note what has been changed, and what has been kept the same. For the 2024 edition of the Formula 1, materials have been upgraded throughout (the new watches get a sapphire crystal rather than plastic, and the strap...

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Welcome Back: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith Fratello
TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith May 1, 2024

Welcome Back: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith

For many of us, today’s announcement of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith represents a return to where everything began. The original Formula 1 watch from 1986 was groundbreaking, and for many collectors, it was their first luxury Swiss watch. This may sound like “PR speak,” but it rings true for me as it […] Visit Welcome Back: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith to read the full article.

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Hanhart Introduces the New Limited Production Preventor9 Worn & Wound
Apr 29, 2024

Hanhart Introduces the New Limited Production Preventor9

There is something undeniable about a blacked-out pilot’s watch. I don’t know exactly what makes the recipe work so well, but you don’t have to look far to see that it does. From that perspective, it’s no wonder that it’s a formula Hanhart, a brand well known for their pilot’s watches, would fall back on. The Swiss-German brand’s latest model takes this recipe and runs with it, building off the existing Preventor9 from a few years ago and tweaking it to produce what is undeniably a very compelling option. The Preventor9 S - the “S” stands for “schwarz,” the German word for black, not to be confused with “Schwartz,” the mystical force from the film Spaceballs - is about as simple a watch as you can find from Hanhart, and that’s a good thing.  Hanhart is a brand best known for producing watches with a very specific look. They’re one of those brands you can typically spot across a room, with their distinctive fluted bezels and red pushers. The Preventor9 stood out when it was released precisely because it didn’t stand out. Gone was the heavily fluted bezel, the chronograph with its red pusher, and any sense of the extraneous.  Of course, That’s not to say the Preventor9 is without any of Hanhart’s signature flair. The Preventor9 keeps Hanhart’s signature cathedral hands and features a small seconds display at the nine o’clock position. Historically, the small seconds display at nine o’clock was the result of one of two things: E...

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First Look – Three New Editions of the Sporty Bulgari Aluminium Monochrome
Bulgari Aluminium Apr 26, 2024

First Look – Three New Editions of the Sporty Bulgari Aluminium

The launch of the Bulgari Aluminio in 1998 flew in the face of conventional watchmaking with its unusual combination of black rubber and lightweight aluminium. With its graphic solid black and off-white livery, the Aluminio soared in popularity as an attractive, entry-level sports watch with a slick Italian soul. Marking its much-anticipated comeback in 2020, […]

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