Watch brandsWatch wikiWatch videosVariousWatch calendarSaved articles
PopularRolexOmegaPatek PhilippeAudemars PiguetTudorGrand SeikoCartierSeikoIWCTAG HeuerBreitlingJaeger-LeCoultreA. Lange & SohneZenith

Results for Frequency / Beat Rate (vph, Hz)

5,880 articles · 178 videos found · page 139 of 202

First Look - The Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer, a Bold Step into Integrated Sports Watches Monochrome
Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer May 29, 2026

First Look - The Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer, a Bold Step into Integrated Sports Watches

For years, Formex has been associated with robust, technically minded watches focused on ergonomics, innovative materials and practical engineering. The Essence, Reef, and Stratos collections built the Biel-based independent brand’s reputation as a maker of high-value sports watches with distinctive technical solutions, including the patented Case Suspension System and advanced clasp mechanisms. With the new […]

Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer Fratello
Formex Enters May 29, 2026

Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer

As a small brand, Formex has consistently pushed the boundaries of affordable watchmaking. By using new materials, integrating innovations, and simply creating a great, varied collection of watches, the young Swiss brand has stood out in recent years. With the new Aria Manufacture Chronometer, Formex unveils a new milestone for the company. It marks a […] Visit Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer to read the full article.

Formex Introduces the Aria, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch with a Manufacture Movement Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces May 29, 2026

Formex Introduces the Aria, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch with a Manufacture Movement

Formex has formally introduced what is likely to be at or near the top of many of our “Watch of the Year” lists when 2026 is all said and done. Long a brand synonymous with squeezing an absolutely insane amount of value from every dollar spent, the new Aria is Formex’s most ambitious watch to date, by a wide margin. We got a look at the Aria during Watches & Wonders week while Formex exhibited at Chronopolis, and then again at Windup San Francisco a few weeks later, and we remain impressed with what the brand has accomplished. This is a big step forward for them on a number of fronts.  The Aria is an integrated bracelet sports watch that is also ultra-thin and uses the brand’s first manufacture movement. It makes sense, I think, to start with the case and bracelet, because they are immediately striking to hold and wear when you first experience the watch. The Aria is 40mm in diameter and crafted from titanium, with a tapered bracelet that has meticulously hand finished elements throughout. The total case height comes to just 6.9mm, and a close examination of the case, bracelet, and how they are integrated to one another reveals an intense attention to detail on the part of Formex and their design team. The Aria seems to understand what makes an integrated bracelet sports watch really work, which is a continuity of form from the case to the bracelet, and all the way to the clasp. They are integrated in the truest sense of the word, with matching finishes and tight ...

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Liberty II in Stainless Steel and Forged Carbon Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces May 28, 2026

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Liberty II in Stainless Steel and Forged Carbon

Back in 2020, Zenith released the Chronomaster Revival Liberty, a North American exclusive limited edition that is still one of the most popular of the A384 reissues we’ve seen. In fact, you could probably make a case that the early success of this particular A384 revival laid the groundwork for all that came after (and there have been many of these A384s released in the last six years). The original Liberty, with its red and white chronograph seconds hand and subtle blue fumé dial, was an attractive watch regardless of whether you saw it as part of a patriotic exercise. So it’s no surprise that Zenith has gone back to the well with the new Chronomaster Revival Liberty II. Coming as it does in the year of America’s 250th anniversary, the brand is leaning a bit harder into the connection Zenith has always had to the United States with this release.  Part of the conceit of the Chronomaster Revival Liberty II is that Zenith’s founder, George Favre-Jacot, was inspired by the watchmaking industry in America in the way he built the Zenith brand. In the middle part of the 19th century, the Swiss watch industry worked largely on an éstablissage system, which meant individual components were to be produced separately before final assembly. When Favre-Jacot visited the United States as a young man, he encountered a much more industrialized and efficient way of making a watch, which served as a model for the early days of Zenith.  To that end, the Chronomaster Revival Lib...

Considering What “Tudor Blue” Means With The Newest Black Bay 54 Fratello
Tudor Blue” Means May 28, 2026

Considering What “Tudor Blue” Means With The Newest Black Bay 54

After the dust had settled from Watches and Wonders 2026, fans and critics agreed that Tudor had a relatively quiet showing. The Monarch, of course, was the big release to celebrate 100 years of Tudor. On top of that, we got a series of updates and new versions of already existing models. While less surprising, […] Visit Considering What “Tudor Blue” Means With The Newest Black Bay 54 to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Watches We’d Buy If We Started Collecting Today Fratello
May 28, 2026

Fratello Talks: The Watches We’d Buy If We Started Collecting Today

Every watch collector has wondered about this at some point. If you could go back to the beginning, armed with everything you know now, what would you do differently? Would you buy fewer watches, take bigger risks, or even skip certain phases altogether? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by RJ and […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Watches We’d Buy If We Started Collecting Today to read the full article.

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection May 27, 2026

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection

We're a few months removed from Watches & Wonders, which gives us some clarity about what was buzz, what was hype, what fell off the wish lists, and what will be a long-term winner. It's looking like Jaeger-LeCoultre had one of the best releases of the fair with the Master Control Chronomètre series. The Master Control line has largely been a dressy take on traditional design cues for a brand people usually think of first for its Reverso. But now, JLC has shown that Master Control can do more. More than just a new case and bracelet, all watches are in-house chronometer-certified 4Hz, 70-hour power reserve movements (COSC does the certification) with a new High Precision Guarantee (HPG) seal, which supplants the former 1000 Hours Control. That new HPG seal means that the brand trials cased watches on four daily-wear specific issues—shocks, positions, altitude, and temperature—over three days, while guaranteeing eight traditional techniques of quality aesthetic finishing. The watches I photographed were brand new and wrapped in plastic, so you have to look past a bit of that to see the quality, but it certainly is there in person. Now with three models in steel and rose gold, with five SKUs (one watch only comes in steel and not gold), measuring 38mm by 8.4mm or 39mm or 9.2mm with 50m of water resistance, the new line brings a lot to the table. Inspired by the brand's Master Mariner Chronomètre line, launched in 1973 as their offering for an integrated bracelet (or adj...

Introducing: Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object What May 26, 2026

Introducing: Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object

What We Know For the last ten years, Louis Vuitton has worked with UNICEF, the United Nations Children's Fund, to support humanitarian and developmental aid for children worldwide. To mark the tenth anniversary of the partnership, the house is releasing a one-of-a-kind time object—a soccer ball reimagined as a clock—to be auctioned exclusively at Sotheby's from June 9 to 18, with the hammer price going directly to UNICEF. The piece brings together La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Swiss movement maker L'Épée 1839, and the house's trunkmaking heritage, all in the shape of a soccer ball, timed perfectly ahead of this year's World Cup. With Louis Vuitton's F1 partnership now in its second year, the brand has been planting its flag deeper in the world of sport. Having a soccer ball serve as the vessel for this milestone feels like a natural extension of that direction, and there's something fitting about the spherical choice of form to commemorate this occasion. At the center of the piece, time is told through a sculpted golden steel dome that forms the upper half of the clock. Two rotating cylinders handle the work: one tracks the hours, the other the minutes. The minute track is engraved with Louis Vuitton's Monogram motif and flowers, and the top of the cylinder carries the "Louis Vuitton Paris" signature. Moving outward, the hour and minute apertures are rimmed with diamonds—144 white for the hours, 120 black for the minutes, totaling 1.03 carats. Inside, L'...

Introducing: The 2026 Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition Hodinkee
Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition May 26, 2026

Introducing: The 2026 Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition

What We Know The Annual Editions from German brand Glashütte Original are quite self-explanatory from their name. Each year, Glashütte Original adorns one of its vintage-inspired designs from the Sixties collection with a new colorway. There's no hard-and-fast rule about what colors make an appearance—past dials have ranged from subtle to loud, muted to saturated, and smooth to textured. This year's Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition goes for maximum visual impact with a very unconventional purple dial, produced in-house at their dialmaking facility in Glashütte. This 2026 edition opts for the distinctive textured dial that has accompanied a few of the past Sixties models, produced through a stamping process for the bronze dial base. After a galvanic coating process that adds a layer of gold to the base dial, purple lacquer is hand-applied and then fired at high temperatures to set the color.  A unique design detail of the dial is the lack of applied hour indices. Rather, the now purple lacquer dial is hand-engraved to reveal strips of the bronze base, acting as those markers and a warm contrast to the rest of the dial. Once this step is completed, the entire dial gets a protective clear lacquer coating, and the dial text is printed on. Gold-plated hands are paired to complement the tone of the bronze hour indices. And of course, any Sixties Edition from Glashütte Original means some heavily stylized numerals, seen here at twelve and six o'clock. As this year's Annu...

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas May 26, 2026

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre

The most talked-about release from Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) at Watches & Wonders was the refreshed Master Control collection, which debuted on a surprising integrated bracelet. Available with or without perpetual calendar or power reserve complications, the Master Control Chronometre is powered by the latest version of the brand’s long-running cal. 899, which is now certified by both COSC and a new internal standard called the High Performance Guarantee (HPG). Initial thoughts Since the Master Control Chronometre debuted at Watches & Wonders, I have been asked multiple times whether it is a dress watch or a sport watch. Setting aside the issue of the false dichotomy that exists between these categories, the Master Control Chronometre presents itself primarily as a dress watch on a bracelet. While the bracelet’s angular facets evoke those of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, the staid Master Control dial is what defines the look. The simple sunray finish and slim hands — not to mention the lack of any lume — firmly root the Master Control Chronometre in the dress watch category. The soft blue and brown dials are each attractive in their own right, with colour-matched date wheels to avoid any harsh transitions. While the text is arguably superfluous, the ‘Chronometre’ label is more interesting than the typical ‘Automatique’ text that mars most Master Control dials. In terms of the value proposition, it’s a tale of two metals. The stainless steel model isn’t...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New Knife from Finch, Lumix Turns 25, and the Microbrand Atlas Worn & Wound
Ming unwieldy May 23, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New Knife from Finch, Lumix Turns 25, and the Microbrand Atlas

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Panasonic’s L10 camera honors 25 years of Lumix This year, Japanese brand Panasonic celebrates their 25th anniversary of their brand of digital cameras, Lumix, with the release of the L10. In the past quarter of a century, the brand has done the remarkable job of positioning itself as one of the premier camera brands on the block – and it shouldn’t go unnoticed how tough this is with competitors like Leica, Sony, and other household names.  And now that Lumix can legally rent a car, their L10 is a bit grown-up, and a bit back-to-basics (in the best way possible). This compact camera leans into a more tactile shooting experience, with a clean body design, physical controls, and a hybrid setup that works for both stills and video. It features Panasonic’s latest autofocus system, built-in stabilization, and high-resolution video recording, giving it enough technical specs without becoming unwieldy in features – or, for that matter, design. The Lumix L10 is slated to launch in June with a price tag of $1,499 in black or silver, with a special edition gold titanium model also available in limited quantities for $1,599.  FieldMade Blackout Stealth Kits for Leica ...

Introducing - The Gem-Set Trilogy of MB&F; LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions Monochrome
MB&F; May 22, 2026

Introducing - The Gem-Set Trilogy of MB&F; LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions

Teaming up with independent watchmaker wizard Stephen McDonnell in 2015 catapulted MB&F; into the rarefied domain of haute horlogerie. McDonnell’s extraordinary, award-winning LM Perpetual marked a before-and-after in the genre. A fully integrated 581-component calibre, the complication is shown dial-side beneath the suspended balance wheel of the Legacy Machine family. A mesmerising display of mechanical […]

Serica Introduces the new Ref. 7505 Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces May 21, 2026

Serica Introduces the new Ref. 7505

One of my favorite things is when a brand releases a watch that feels like the watch they always should have made. I’m sure we can all point to examples of this – that feeling that a new watch really belongs in the brand’s catalog, and we’re kind of surprised it never existed in the first place. That’s sort of how I think about the latest release from Serica, the Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer. Doesn’t it seem like Serica always had a 35mm field watch in their collection?  More than any other watch the brand has released to date, this feels like a distillation of what the brand is really about. You’ll recall that they launched with a collection of military inspired field watches all the way back in 2019, which at the time felt like they were already going a little against the grain at just under 38mm in diameter. In the years since, they’ve iterated on this general idea, with an ongoing series of sporty selections rooted in a kind of imagined vintage world, never borrowing too much from any one classic reference, but pulling from a variety of sources to create something that is uniquely their own. Part of that has always meant keeping the watches fairly compact. Looking over the press materials for this watch and thinking about the direction the brand has gone in, I wonder if, if circumstances had been different, they may have started here, with a 35mm field watch, to begin with.  This is unquestionably the right time to introduce a watch like this, at a mom...

Introducing: Serica Downsizes Its Field Chronometer With The 35mm Ref. 7505 Hodinkee
Serica Downsizes May 21, 2026

Introducing: Serica Downsizes Its Field Chronometer With The 35mm Ref. 7505

What We Know It's time to put aside the debate of big watches versus small watches. I think we can at least agree that options are a good thing, so everyone can get what they want. With that in mind, Serica has released three new, smaller Field Chronometer watches measuring only 35mm by 9.6mm thick with a COSC-certified automatic movement and three new enamel dials. These three new watches, with stainless steel cases, play off the design language of the ref. 6190 with a few tweaks. There's the slightly larger, fixed bezel with pips at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock. They have a double-domed anti-reflective sapphire that should somewhat magnify the smaller dial. The two-tone cream-and-black "Tuxedo" dial is similar to the ref. 6190 TXD, with hand-applied numerals. The other two, the "Minute Critical" dials in black or olive green, aren't that far from the ref. 6190 "Denali" that is already on offer in a larger size, with added 5-minute Arabic numerals. All three have Super-LumiNova C3 lume. Inside the case is the SoProd M100 movement, which is COSC-certified for accuracy, making it a Field Chronometer in both name and function. The caliber runs at 4Hz, is self-winding, and has a 42-hour power reserve. According to Serica, it also has a decorated plate with Côtes de Genève, and while there are no photos of the caseback, I would assume it is still a closed caseback like its big sibling.  Then there's the final major update: the watch comes with a redesigned Bonklip bracelet, fea...

All the Panels from the 2026 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant May 21, 2026

All the Panels from the 2026 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

The 2026 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco was easily our largest event in California yet! It was punctuated by amazing brands, cool watches, and numerous activities. However, it was the panels that helped maintain that classic Windup vibe and we had four great ones over the course of the event. Precision Meets Passion: Frederique Constant and the Padel Phenomenon Padel is no longer just a trend—it’s a global commercial powerhouse on track to become a $6 billion industry by 2028. Join Kaitlin Derkach (Marketing Director, Frederique Constant) and Diane Gotua (CCO, Pro Padel League) as they discuss the “lifestyle-first” strategy driving padel’s explosive 50% year-over-year growth in the U.S. and why Frederique Constant is betting on this high-energy, enthusiast-friendly sport. EDC Expo Panel: Building a Quiver vs. Collection Many collectors don’t think in rigid frameworks—they follow curiosity and passion wherever it leads. Others work within self-imposed rules around style, function, or brand. This panel brings together Jim Wirth (Founder/CEO at GiantMouse Knives), Christian Freissler (Co-Founder at Evolve Agency and Creative Director at Shinzo Tamura), and Harrison McCrindle (Head of Government Operations at Marathon Watch Company) for a candid conversation about the art, science, and emotion of collecting across knives, sunglasses, watches, and everyday carry. Together, they’ll explore different philosophies of gear collecting, from logical progressions t...

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne May 20, 2026

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este

When we write about watches at Fratello, we typically have three levels of engagement with the product. First, we have our basic introduction articles, for which we base our writing solely on press materials, keeping it brief and factual. Second, we have our hands-on reviews, which allow us to spend time with the watch before […] Visit Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este to read the full article.

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo Hodinkee
Gerald Charles May 19, 2026

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo

Enthusiasts and collectors made their way to SoHo for an exclusive and exciting event, hosted by Hodinkee, Gerald Charles, and Watches of Switzerland. Fresh from the whirlwind that is Watches & Wonders, this event marked the first opportunity for Gerald Charles to introduce their latest collection to the U.S.-based collectors. The evening celebrated a brand on the rise, featuring a comprehensive look at the brand's offerings, both past and present, including the beautiful, bespoke Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold, a watch conceptualized and designed by Mr. Genta himself two decades ago, hosting his favorite Jumping Hours complication. This exceptional pièce unique, which has spent the last several weeks on display at Watches & Wonders and in the Gerald Charles Atelier, was inspired by the untouched Li Galli archipelago off the Amalfi Coast and represents a profound expression of Maestro from its earliest days. Vintage Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold. Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar's first stop in the United States after their W&W; release. The highlight of the event was an animated discussion between Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Tim Jeffreys, Hodinkee Deputy Editor. Following a warm introduction and welcome to all in the room from Tim Jeffreys, the conversation continued, covering the newly released watches, the DNA that sets the Maestro case apart, as well as the decisions, thoughts, and work that continue to make Gerald Charles watche...

First Look - Moritz Grossmann Unveils Two Special Backpage Tremblage Editions Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Unveils Two Special Backpage May 19, 2026

First Look - Moritz Grossmann Unveils Two Special Backpage Tremblage Editions

Moritz Grossmann celebrates the 200th anniversary of its founder, a pivotal figure in Glashütte’s proud watchmaking tradition. Revived in 2008 by watchmaker Christine Hutter, the brand has been steered down the path of high-end, technically serious Saxon watchmaking with in-house calibres and a dedication to Schönstes deutsches Handwerk – the “most beautiful German craftsmanship”. Feted with […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Vs. Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium Fratello
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive May 17, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Vs. Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium

Grand Seiko surprised friend and foe at Watches and Wonders when the brand released a smaller, more accurate dive watch at a lower price than its predecessor. The Ushio 300 diver, naturally, was met with applause. So, for this week’s showdown, we thought we’d stack it up against a watch so popular that it is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Vs. Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium to read the full article.

Seiko Introduces new Astrons, Including a Limited Edition, for their 145th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces new Astrons Including May 14, 2026

Seiko Introduces new Astrons, Including a Limited Edition, for their 145th Anniversary

This year marks the 145th anniversary of Seiko, and while 145 isn’t exactly the most notable round number anniversary, it’s still, well, a very long time. And as we’ve mentioned countless times in these pages, the watch industry simply doesn’t let an anniversary year go to waste. Seiko has just announced a new collection of watches in the Astron line to mark the occasion, because of course it makes a lot of sense to commemorate longevity and a proud history with the most modern contemporary line in the catalog. Right?  Kidding aside, the Astron holds a special place in the Seiko collection for a few reasons. It was the name of the brand’s very first quartz watch, famously introduced on Christmas Day in 1969. It was a watch, and a technology, that not only changed the company, but the watch industry altogether. It ushered in the Quartz Crisis across most of the watchmaking world, except of course in Japan, which rose to a level of prominence in watchmaking as a result of quartz.  Today, the Astron is special as it is reserved for the most newfangled Seiko technology available, very much in keeping with the tradition inherent in its name. That means, primarily, tech forward GPS enabled timekeeping, as well as the use of Seiko’s solar technology. Astron watches typically inhabit a very contemporary design language, which tends toward sporty, angular, and often oversized.  The anniversary watch introduced this week is the new GPS Solar Dual Time Chronograph, ref...

Fratello Talks: There Are No Tool Watches Above €500 Fratello
Breitling Navitimer using it May 14, 2026

Fratello Talks: There Are No Tool Watches Above €500

Mechanical watches were once essential tools for pilots, divers, scientists, race car drivers, etc. You’ve probably seen the advertisements in old National Geographic magazines, showing spelunkers proudly wearing their Rolex Explorers or a pilot checking his Breitling Navitimer, using it to calculate fuel consumption. For many years (decades) now, this has been handled digitally, as […] Visit Fratello Talks: There Are No Tool Watches Above €500 to read the full article.

First Look - The New Seiko Presage 145th Anniversary Limited Editions HCC007 and HCC004 Monochrome
Seiko Presage 145th Anniversary Limited May 14, 2026

First Look - The New Seiko Presage 145th Anniversary Limited Editions HCC007 and HCC004

Over the past decade, the Presage collection has become the most expressive showcase for Seiko’s artisanal side. Beyond the sporty world of Prospex, Presage has steadily explored traditional Japanese crafts, integrating enamel, Urushi lacquer, Shippo enamel and Arita porcelain into accessible mechanical watches. In 2026, Seiko celebrates its 145th anniversary, and following the four-piece anniversary […]

First Look - The Seiko Prospex HBC005 and HBB001, a Duo of Divers in Seiko Blue and Silver Monochrome
Seiko Prospex HBC005 May 14, 2026

First Look - The Seiko Prospex HBC005 and HBB001, a Duo of Divers in Seiko Blue and Silver

We know that Seiko loves to celebrate anniversaries, which often results in fairly attractive limited edition models. This year, the brand is celebrating the 145th anniversary of its creation. In 1881, Kintaro Hattori opened a shop known as “K. Hattori” in Tokyo’s Ginza district, beginning what would evolve into today’s Seiko. He then went on […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito Hodinkee
Grand Seiko May 13, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito

This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with Akio Naito, the President of Seiko Watch Corporation. Seiko's Credor brand, the ultra-premium offering showcasing artisanal creations, unique craftsmanship, and design, made its Watches and Wonders debut this year. We discuss Credor's positioning within the Seiko Group and its expansion into international markets. Photo credit: Mark Kauzlarich The biggest challenge for Credor, Naito says, will be increasing production for more markets, as the skills required to produce the timepieces are highly specialized and take years to master. We also get an update on Grand Seiko. Naito says the brand has increased its international sales by more than 15x over the past decade, driven largely by success in the U.S. market. Grand Seiko is continuing to update and improve its offerings, including a new ultra-accurate and ultra-luxurious dive watch in a more compact size that clients have been asking for. We also hear about the growing interest and awareness of Grand Seiko's class-leading 9F quartz movement technology, which is increasingly popular with some clients. But first, Hodinkee Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich drops in for a fresh analysis on some of the record watch auction results from the spring sessions in Geneva. Pocket watches were hot, Journe was surging, and Patek showed continued strength with a record result for a rare Patek 2523. So what isn't hot right now? Tune in to find out.  There's plenty of watch business and...

Audemars Piguet - The Établisseur, Rehabilitated SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet May 12, 2026

Audemars Piguet - The Établisseur, Rehabilitated

This year Audemars Piguet (AP) walked into Watches & Wonders Geneva for the first time in seven years, and it did so carrying a word it had not used in public for the better part of a century. The brand had departed the predecessor of the fair, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), in 2019 alongside Richard Mille, declaring its intention to forge direct relationships with collectors through its own channels and AP Houses rather than through the shared theatre of a trade fair. The return to Geneva in 2026, under CEO Ilaria Resta, was already a signal of strategic realignment, but the word it brought with it made the move more interesting: établisseur. The watches it presented — three of them — each made in very limited numbers by a network of named artisans working within and around the Musée Atelier in Le Brassus, were introduced under the name Atelier des Établisseurs, a project AP described in its launch communications as a revival of the collaborative spirit that had driven the watchmaking industry for generations. The établissage system The framing was historically accurate, as far as it went. The établissage system did shape the Vallée de Joux from the late 18th century onward. Farmers working through the long alpine winters crafted individual components like wheels, bridges, and screws in home workshops, coordinated by an établisseur who assembled the finished watch and brought it to market. The Audemars Piguet Établisseurs Gallets hand-w...