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Time+Tide
Grand Seiko expands its range of signature white "Snowflake" dial watches with two new quartz models.The post Grand Seiko’s two new “Snowflake” models incite an interesting discussion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
There’s a whole category of watches that I have come to genuinely love that I think can be fairly described as highly impractical art objects that also tell time. I wrote about one quite extensively here, and if you follow me on Instagram or have chatted with me in real life or in the Worn & Wound+ Slack community (which, to be fair, is technically “real life”) you know that I gravitate more and more toward the avant-garde, and love challenging designs that try to break what a watch even is. The new limited edition regulator from Louis Erard fits into this category nicely, and indeed was made in partnership with a Swiss abstract artist with a reputation for this type of challenging work. The new Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Olivier Mosset is perhaps the brand’s most purely abstract creation yet. Let’s start with the obvious question: how do you tell the time on this thing? This is not an unreasonable query – many who have encountered this watch on Louis Erard’s Instagram feed since its unveiling on Tuesday morning have been confused enough to send their question into the void. I won’t say it’s “simple” because even I have to admit that telling the time on this thing is probably difficult in a pinch, but the idea is straightforward. It’s a regulator, with the top hand reading the hours, the middle the minutes, and the bottom the seconds. But the task of actually reading the time is intentionally (I’m assuming) made more challenging for a few reas...
Time+Tide
This is one of the most sci-fi-looking watches Hublot has ever made, thanks to its alien green case, bracelet and openworked dial.The post The Hublot Big Bang Unico SAXEM Green is a mean, green, alien-looking wrist machine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This blingy piece features a dial made from a single lab-grown polycrystalline diamond, and is the first TAG Heuer to utilise yellow lab-grown diamonds.The post TAG Heuer continues to push the boundaries of lab-grown diamonds with the Carrera Date Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard, a brand well-known for its affordable collaborations with notable figures across different industries, has just dropped a wristwatch designed by a Swiss contemporary artist known for his abstract style. A variant of the brand’s classic regulator model, Le Regulateur Louis Erard x Oliver Mosset tells the time, but in an extremely minimalist, almost redacted manner, with just three hands rotating on a dial that evokes outer space. Initial Thoughts The design is clearly the work of an abstract artist; time-telling instrument it is not. In fact, it is not especially recognisable as a watch, particularly for someone unfamiliar with a regulator-style dial. The striking design will be polarising, particularly since it comes at the expense of function. It is, however, appealing in its own peculiar way and more broadly reflects the wide-ranging aesthetic adopted by Louis Erard thanks to Manuel Emch, now the brand’s creative chief and himself a collector of contemporary art. The only downside of the watch is the chunky case, which is shared by all Le Regulateur models. It’s thicker and bulkier than such a minimalist watch should be, but necessarily so due to the no-frills movement inside. But that also means the Oliver Mosset regulator is an affordable CHF3,750, as is typical for the brand. It’s a value proposition for a little bit of contemporary on the wrist. Not a watch That the watch was conceived as an artwork, rather than a timepiece is indicated by the l...
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Time+Tide
Pietro brings you a trio of movie stars, a rare stone dial, and a stealthy new Nomos.The post New releases from Bremont, Hermès, H. Moser & Cie and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A first-ever full dial for the brand doesn't mean it gets any tamer, though.The post The Code41 Moon Inception breaks tradition by going traditional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Longines’ latest launch is unexpected in featuring a novel take on a useful complication: the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve has a power reserve indicator positioned at the centre of the dial, on the same axis as the hands. Though unusual, the central power reserve is actually found in the Conquest ref. 9028 from 1959, making this something of a vintage remake, which makes its debut just in time for the 70th anniversary of the Conquest collection. Initial thoughts The current Conquest collection is somewhat forgotten because it’s positioned between Longines’ sports watches like the Spirit and the vintage-inspired Heritage and Master models. Fortunately the new Conquest is interesting enough to stand out. Even though it’s not a new invention, the central power reserve indicator is uncommon. Furthermore, this particular power reserve display is a clever two-disc construction that makes the indicator a bit more life, so it adds visual flair to the dial. The central power reserve is arguably more legible than conventional indicators that are smaller. At the same time it gives the dial a pleasing symmetrical layout. Because of the symmetry, the date indicator at 12 actually works well and improves the dial design. Perhaps only downside of the design is the seemingly chunky case. Like many other Longines models, this Conquest appears to have thick lugs despite being fairly compact in diameter. In terms of price, the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve is mor...
Worn & Wound
It can sometimes be easy to forget that there was a time when finding high-quality, affordable mechanical watches was a bit of a challenge. Back in those days, Seiko was the name of the game, and while plenty of worthy competitors have risen through the ranks to challenge the Japanese brand, Seiko still has a few tricks up its sleeve. Namely, Seiko knows how to make a hell of a dress watch. While there are plenty of iconic tool watches available at a true entry-level price point, finding great dress watches - especially mechanical ones - is harder to do. Since its initial introduction in 2010, the Cocktail Time series has offered collectors a genuinely exciting, and beautiful, dress watch at an almost shocking price. Today, Seiko has expanded its Cocktail Time lineup with the introduction of their latest collaboration with Hisashi Kishi’s famed Ginza watering hole, STAR BAR. This is not the first time Kishi and STAR BAR have collaborated with Seiko either. You might remember that back in 2022, Kishi and Seiko released the SSA455J1 and SSA457J1. That duo, based on the familiar colors of classic cocktails like the Martini, were distinguished by the cutouts in their dials reminiscent of a ripple on the surface of a drink. This time, Kishi and Seiko have released a pair of watches with inspiration taken from proprietary cocktails Kishi has created for STAR BAR inspired by the Tokyo skyline. What results is a pair of watches offered with beautiful gradient dials, perfect ...
Fratello
Two decades ago, Omega reintroduced the racing dial to the Speedmaster Professional. It was only for the Japanese market, and only 2,004 pieces were produced. As you might know, there are more of them around, but we’ll get to that later. Speedmaster Japan Racing 3570.40 First, let’s go back 20 years. At that time, Omega […] Visit The Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - It Has Been 20 Years to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
Brutalist and uncompromising, this integrated tool watch is a real contender.The post Ollech & Wajs’ OW 8001 is a beefier yet more mature PRX alternative appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Oris gives its signature model a subtle makeover with the Big Crown Father Time Limited Edition, a collaboration with Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC). This release commemorates the pair’s three-year collaboration that began in 2022 and combines a 40 mm bronze case with a creamy white dial. Initial thoughts The Big Crown Father Time is best described as a cricket-themed variation of the bronze Big Crown Pointer Date. The cricket element, however, is subtle and practically absent from the dial, which is not a bad thing since it gives the watch the widest possible appeal. Setting aside the cricket theme, the contrast between the dial elements and the dial itself is appealing. The watch stands out in terms of legibility due to this contrast. The cathedral hands and extra-large crown add a nice touch that evoke vintage Oris models. And though I’m typically a fan of fluted bezels, this one works well. This is equipped with a Sellita SW 200-1 instead of an in-house movement. However, with a retail price of US$3,100, it is still acceptable value. “Father Time” Sitting on top of the clock tower, Father Time is the weathervane at Lord’s Cricket Ground and was gifted to MCC in 1926 by architect Sir Herbert Baker. Because Lord’s is the “Home of Cricket”, and the MCC once the sport’s governing body, Father Time is one of the globally recognised symbols of the sport. The Big Crown Pointer Date, on the other hand, is synonymous with Oris. Introduced in 1938 as a pilot’...
Time+Tide
An intricate dial, compact case, manually wound movement, and some laser-engraved finesse - there's a lot to like here.The post The many layers of the Constellar Origin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With the trend of new dial colours seemingly slowing, might one of these be the next big thing in watch dials?The post What dials haven’t we seen yet? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Arriving just as the Dragon year begins in February, the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon” is the latest illustration of the Geneva brand’s artisanal and technical capabilities, with a hand-engraved dragon sculpture on a grand feu enamel dial and an in-house calibre that indicates the time and calendar on discs. The “Year of the Dragon” is the final chapter in the brand’s Chinese Zodiac collection, an annual series of limited editions that began in 2012 with the rabbit. With the Chinese zodiac made up of a repeating 12-year cycle – with each year represented by an animal – the series reaches its conclusion with this dragon edition, which like its predecessors is available in either pink gold or platinum. Initial thoughts Dragon-themed watches have already started to proliferate with the incoming Year of the Dragon, simply because the dragon has the most universal appeal amongst all of the zodiac animals. It carries desirable symbolism across East Asia, as opposed to say, the rodent or pig, which have a niche audience. So the appeal of a dragon watch is arguably less about the motif, which is now common, but the execution. And here the Metiers d’Art “Year of the Dragon” excels in both presentation and technique. I’ve always been fond of Vacheron Constantin’s quadruple-disc display because it is both logical and attractive. The display makes sense because it leaves majority of the dial free fo...
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Quill & Pad
In Martin Green's opinion, the Tudor Ranger has a timeless quality that some might look upon as being too plain but has a deeper charisma that reveals itself over time. At 39mm, the Ranger is neither too large or too small. And he looks at if it's a better deal than the Rolex Explorer.
Worn & Wound
Pretty much since the first day of taking up the financially ruinous hobby of watches in early 2022, I’ve had a bit of a thing for tool and sports watches. Granted, I haven’t been scuba diving and I’ll certainly not be scaling Mount Everest any time soon, but there is – to me at least – something romantic about wearing a watch that offers a sense of genuine utility, especially in the age of the smartwatch. What’s more, I believe that a watch should tell something about its wearer; a glimpse into their personality rather than just be a status symbol and a source of bragging rights. When the opportunity for my first ‘proper’ watch arose in January 2023, I chose a Tudor Black Bay GMT. It was a belated 30th birthday gift and whenever I look at it, it reminds me that firstly, my knees hurt more often than they don’t, and secondly, reconciliation exists and hope springs eternal no matter how rough things may seem at certain times. There are also another two reasons unrelated to age as to why this watch is special to me. Several millennia ago as a student, I was fortunate to spend an academic year in St. Petersburg. That’s the Russian one, FYI, and that period from September 2010 to July 2011 kicked off a fascination with the awesome-yet-frightening city on Neva. In 2015, having also developed a love affair with the history of the Baltic States, I moved to Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, to try my luck at Eastern Europe without the paternal hand of the un...
Teddy Baldassarre
If you own any automatic watches at all, especially enough of them to ensure that you’re not wearing the same one daily, you will inevitably face the issue of keeping those watches running, and set to the proper time and date, when they’re not on your wrist. Some collectors choose to simply commit to re-winding and re-setting their automatic watches when their power reserve runs down - it’s a ritual that many traditionalists actually enjoy - but others would rather invest in some high-tech hardware to lend a hand. Here is where a watch winder comes in. These helpful and often luxuriously appointed machines are designed to store your precious self-winding timepieces while also keeping them charged via electronic, motorized rotations - the timing, direction, and duration of which can often be pre-set and monitored - that mimic the natural movement of a wearer’s wrist. For those ready to dip their toe into the wide world of watch winders, we’ve gathered 10 favorites from 10 brands representing as wide a variety as possible in terms of styles, sizes, and price points. Wolf Roadster 4PC Watch Winder ($2,095) Wolf watch winders, known for their fusion of leather, wood, glass, and steel, work on a 24-hour cycle, with six-hour periods of intermittent activity followed by “sleep” periods that allow the tension in the watches’ mainsprings to ease, avoiding over-winding. Fifty different cycles are possible, allowing the owner to specify factors such as direc...
Time+Tide
Originating in the Philippines and made for US soldiers during the Vietnam War, these unique bracelets tell a rich story.The post The fascinating Cold War history of the Olongapo bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Now a cultural icon of New York City, Tiffany & Co. has turned to 1950s taxicabs of its home city for its latest tabletop timepiece. The Tiffany Taxi is an eight-day clock in aluminium and steel – in brand’s signature colour naturally. Taking the shape of a typical 1950s American automobile with tail fins, the Tiffany Taxi is both a timekeeper and automaton – it incorporates a time display as well as a V8 engine with moving pistons. And like past Tiffany clocks, it is made by L’Epée 1839, the go-to specialist in Switzerland for high-end clocks. Initial thoughts While primarily known for jewellery watches like its signature Bird on a Rock and double-signed Patek Philippe timepieces, the New York jeweller has recently unveiled a line of table clocks. The Tiffany Taxi is its most elaborate to date. In addition to the time display inside the engine compartment, the Taxi clock also has an “engine”, a mechanism taking the form of a V8 engine with pistons that move when the engine is “started”. Charming as it is, the Tiffany Taxi is a pricey horological novelty, with a retail price of US$50,000. It is, however, an impressive object for the desk that is particularly faithful to Tiffany’s history as a New York City institution. Inspired by midcentury cabs The Tiffany Taxi is modelled on the iconic taxicabs of New York City, in particular the Yellow Cabs made famous the world over by films about the city – but the clock is of course in the familiar Robin egg bl...
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Time+Tide
Australia's national gemstone is honoured in a white gold-rimmed Piaget dial. The post The Piaget Limelight High Jewelry depicts a chunk of wild opal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
These playful field watches feature a pretty impressive dial design that’s a first in the watch industry.The post The Studio Underd0g 02Series Field is a cheeky yet innovative piece of wrist candy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A tasteful sandwich dial, enormous amount of lume and on-the-fly micro-adjustment helps this Swedish watch stand out from the pack.The post The Tusenö Shellback V2 is a stylish Swedish dive watch that’s a cut above most independent offerings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko has expanded its range of (very) reasonably priced sports watches with the Seiko 5 Sports Field Sports Style GMT. Available in stainless steel (SSK023) or black-coated steel (SSK025), it retains the military-inspired aesthetics of its time-only counterparts, while incorporating an additional hour hand showing a second time zone. Initial thoughts The new models evoke a sense of familiarity with the “field” style dial and 24-hour markers, a longstanding design that’s been part of the Seiko 5 line-up for decades. But now the dial adopts a modern, utilitarian style, departing from the vintage-inspired aesthetic found in the time-only “field” models such as the SRPG35 and SRPJ85. And purists will appreciate the absence day-of-the-week display, with the dial having just the date. The black-on-black SSK025 achieves an almost ideal look for this type of watch. The near-monochromatic aesthetic creates an extremely satisfying contrast with the orange accents that brings to mind a fighter jet cockpit. The SSK025 Beyond the cosmetic changes, the new models are typical of Seiko’s entry-level GMT models. They are more accurately described as dual time zone watches with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than true GMT watches that feature an adjustable local-time hour hand, as seen in pricier watches from Grand Seiko or Tudor. Although setting the time for a second time zone involves a few additional steps, this represents an acceptable compromise consid...
On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we have news from Furlan Marri, Arcanaut, Baltic, Oak & Oscar, and Seiko. Furlan Marri returns to its roots with a new chronograph, but this time with a high-end mechanical chronograph movement. Arcanaut debuts two new watches in the D’Arc Colors line, one featuring a very unexpected dial material. Baltic adds some gold to existing models, and they look killer. Oak & Oscar team up with a local Illinois whiskey brand for a very cool collab. And, finally, Seiko debuts some new, and very nice, mechanical chronographs. This episode was sponsored by Artem and their new HydroFlex watch strap. Crafted with a premium FKM rubber base and layered with their signature synthetic embossed material, “HydroFlex” is water-resistant, flexible, durable, and comfortable immediately out of the box, with no break-in period. Artem Straps The post A Week in Watches Ep. 69: Seikos, Sea Shells, Flybacks, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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