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Ace Jewelers and echo/neutra Unveil their Averau 39 Moon Phase Noctilum Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Feb 26, 2025

Ace Jewelers and echo/neutra Unveil their Averau 39 Moon Phase Noctilum Limited Edition

From their distinctive lower-case name to their cohesive brand aesthetics, echo/neutra has upheld a reputation of stylized simplicity since their founding in 2019. With the Averau 39 Moon Phase, released in 2022 as a follow-up to the original Averau field watch, the young Italian brand proved that they could introduce complications without sacrificing the clean design ethos they’ve since become known for. A “Big Moon” version with both black and white dial options would follow in 2024 and become arguably the brand’s most recognizable watch, due to its strikingly photo-realistic moon disc.  For the new Averau 39 Moon Phase Noctilum, however, echo/neutra has plucked the traditional double-moon phase indication from the first Moon Phase model and given it a new minimalist look. A limited edition project joint-helmed by echo/neutra and Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam, the Noctilum emphasizes bold legibility-while the subdial at the 6 o’clock position remains, the realistically-textured moons have been replaced by contrasting black and luminous white alternatives. Continuing with the paring-down of design elements, the hands and 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock indices are the same matte black as the dial, but feature luminous white borders, creating an impressively emotive and legible “inverted lume” effect in dark conditions.  Further deviating from the original, the Noctilum deletes the Arabic hour numerals and the “2649 MSLM” script between 7 and 8 o’clock. The r...

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase SJX Watches
Casio nally created Apr 28, 2021

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase

A custom shop best known for its extensively reworking of popular sports watches – occasionally created in collaboration with celebrity sportsmen  – Artisans de Genève has a diverse portfolio of work that range from the intriguing to the mystifying. Certainly one of its more intriguing timepieces is the Sea Shepherd Challenge, a Submariner with a moon phase display surrounded by much aventurine glass that was commissioned by the founder of the eponymous marine conservation group. Initial thoughts Aftermarket customisation of fashionable watches is common. It can often be merely opportunistic, with customisers taking advantage of the watchmaker’s well-established brand and design. Rarely are customised watches interesting in a technical sense. The Sea Shepherd Challenge is interesting, being a mechanical customisation rather than the change of colours that’s the usual formula applied to such watches. It incorporates an oversized moon phase display (driven by a mechanically simple, but elaborately-constructed mechanism going by this animation), along with an aventurine-glass dial and bezel insert. Add to that the added decoration to the movement, and the watch does have its appeal. The customisation alone costs about US$35,000 (and the client either provides the watch or purchases one), which is probably too much for the work done, but within reason given the benchmark prices of such customised watches. A mariner’s watch This customised Submariner was a request...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2019

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”

With one watch unveiled each month since the start of the year, the A. Lange & Söhne “25th Anniversary” series is coming to a completion. The ninth watch has just been announced – the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase. Of the 10 piece anniversary set, this is arguably the most esoteric and least known Lange 1, being an elegantly conceived complication inside a case that was originally devised as a smaller men’s watch, but is now a ladies’ watch. Measuring a compact 36.8mm in width, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was first unveiled in 2009 – seven years after the launch of the full-size, 38.5mm Lange 1 Moon Phase. Subsequently in 2017, it evolved to incorporate a new caliber based on the second-generation Lange 1 movement. Though the original Little Lange 1 was introduced as a watch for men in the late 1990s, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was a ladies’ watch from the get-go and decorated as such, with mother-of-pearl dials, diamond bezels and most recently a guilloche dial. But with the subdued anniversary colours of blue and silver, the latest Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the first instance where it could be for men wanting a smaller watch. The dial of the watch is solid silver, with blued steel hands and printed blue markings. As with the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “25thAnniversary” unveiled earlier in the year, the white-gold lunar disc in the seconds sub-dial is hand-engraved with stars that vary in size and shape, creating a detailed depiction of the ni...

Introducing the Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Jul 11, 2019

Introducing the Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”

With one watch unveiled each month since January, we are now more than halfway through the 10-piece Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” set. The latest addition, the Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” was supposed to be launched in June, but instead made its debut this month to coincide with the opening of the brand’s Zurich boutique. First introduced in 2002, the Lange 1 Moon Phase is essentially the base Lange 1 with the clever incorporation of a moon phase in the sub-seconds. Subsequently, the second generation Lange 1 Moon Phase also evolved to feature a more advanced moon phase display. The new and improved Lange 1 Moon Phase was novel for the fact that its moonphase display also doubled up as a day and night indicator. Instead of a single disc with two fixed moons as is convention, the display relies on a rotating figure of 8, with each end forming one gold moon. The “8” is superimposed on an independently revolving blue disc that represents the sky. Half the disc is in a light blue, indicating day time and the second half is dark blue for the night sky, with laser-cut stars dotting it. The deconstructed display of the Lange 1 Moon Phase On the commemorative Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” however, the moons are in white gold keeping in line with the anniversary colours of silver and blue. The dial of the watch is solid silver, with blued steel hands and blue printed numerals. Visible through the sapphire case back is the 25th Anniversary set’s ...

Face Value: Why Painting on Watch Dials is Art SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Masterpiece Jan 27, 2026

Face Value: Why Painting on Watch Dials is Art

Fine watches have pulled double duty as decorative objects since before the invention of the hairspring in 1675. In this sense, one could almost argue that watches have been linked to art since before they were even watches in the modern sense. This relationship emerged early in part because both types of objects were made primarily for the same clientele: wealthy elite in Europe and elsewhere. Though art and watches exist for different reasons, they are both often created with eternity in mind. The noble materials and timeless designs of many fine watches, especially those of the quality that would normally be paired with a work of art, also help justify the painstaking (and costly) work of artisanal decoration, which can, in some cases, take more than a year for a single work of miniature art. Introduction to miniature painting Of all the forms of decoration that have been applied to watches, miniature paintings are an especially important genre. Historically, these miniature masterpieces have been produced primarily in enamel, though acrylic paint is increasingly used today. Much has been written about the art of miniature painting, and it would not be an exaggeration to call it a dying art, since the number of living practitioners seems to have rarely exceeded half a dozen at any given time over the past century. Vacheron Constantin’s Masterpiece on Your Wrist programme is a partnership with the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York that allows customers to commissi...

SJX Podcast: Freak Face-Off: Original vs. Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak – how does Oct 27, 2025

SJX Podcast: Freak Face-Off: Original vs. Freak S

On Episode 16 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss ongoing horology events in Paris and Singapore, and debrief on the new Piaget Andy Warhol. It’s also the debut of a new segment comparing two watches head-to-head. First up is the Ulysse Nardin Freak – how does the original, now 25 years old, stack up to the new Freak S? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Face-Off: Seiko Credor Eichi II 7R14 vs. Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02 When Feb 6, 2020

Face-Off: Seiko Credor Eichi II 7R14 vs. Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02

When it comes to finely-finished, time-only movements, the ultimate Seiko offerings are the Credor Eichi II and Grand Seiko Spring Drive 20th Anniversary. The Japanese equivalent of watches like the Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain and Philippe Dufour Simplicity, the pair are the work of the Micro Artist Studio and finished to the same magnificent level, broadly speaking. (The Grand Seiko 8 Day is of the same quality, but it is a much larger and more complex watch.) Because the movements, the 7R14 in the Eichi II and 9R02 in Grand Seiko SBGZ001 and SBGZ003, are fundamentally identical, comparing the finer details of the two – an enlightened, obsessive nitpicking – makes for some interesting conclusions. The 7R14 in the Eichi II (left) and the 9R02 of the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 The sampled are both finished examples that were purchased in stores, and not prototypes, so both are representative of their respective model and movement. Though both were made in the Seiko-Epson’s Micro Artist Studio, probably by the very same craftsmen, the Eichi II was produced in 2015, while the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 dates to 2019, which is the year of its launch, and is the property of Mark Cho, founder of menswear retailer The Armoury. Same but different Both movements share the same architecture and layout, with the key functional difference being the power reserve, in both duration and display. The Eichi II’s 7R14 has a single barrel and a 60-hour power reserve, indicated on a fan-sha...

Hands-On With The Beaufort Pulsatimer - A Brawny Blend Of Retro Delights And Tool Vibes Fratello
Aug 4, 2024

Hands-On With The Beaufort Pulsatimer - A Brawny Blend Of Retro Delights And Tool Vibes

I’m all for a tough sports watch with a muscular design accompanied by a matte black or blue dial, a solid depth rating, and big, blocky lume-printed indices. But the Beaufort Pulsatimer is a conflicting mix of this and dressy vintage, and it frazzled my watch-brain neurons. I have a confession to make: sometimes a […] Visit Hands-On With The Beaufort Pulsatimer - A Brawny Blend Of Retro Delights And Tool Vibes to read the full article.

[Hands-On] The Bremoir Lexington, Art Deco Done Right Worn & Wound
Mar 2, 2023

[Hands-On] The Bremoir Lexington, Art Deco Done Right

One of the major principles of Art Deco design is to infuse beauty into functional, everyday objects and what better everyday object to do that with than a watch. Bremoir’s Lexington draws inspiration from the iconic Art Deco-styled Chrysler Building in NYC. Angled geometric patterns and intricate details throughout are easily traced from the watch directly back to the building. Whether it’s the angular applied indices or the stepped polished bezel, there’s a lot to take in, but it never seems like too much. What we have is a handsome 39mm watch that offers a nice break from modern design. As a fan of modern watches (mostly because of the lack of hassle) it’s especially nice to not have to go vintage to get the classic Art Deco styling seen on the Lexington. Let’s take a closer look at this unique new watch from Bremoir. $985 [Hands-On] The Bremoir Lexington, Art Deco Done Right Case Stainless Steel Movement Swiss STP 1-11 Automatic Dial Sector style with metallic finish Lume Super Luminova Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 50M Dimensions 39×48.5mm Thickness 10.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty Yes Price $985 Case It’s easy to trace the case geometry back to the design seen in the Chrysler Building, and it’s executed well. The tonneau-shaped case features some heavy polished bevels on the sides that carry down into the lugs. Vertical brushing on the sides provides some nice contrast to the polished portions. On the right side of the case...

Farer Introduces Two New Moonphase References Featuring Eisenkiesel Quartz and Eastern Arabic Numerals Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces Two New Moonphase Oct 31, 2025

Farer Introduces Two New Moonphase References Featuring Eisenkiesel Quartz and Eastern Arabic Numerals

Ah, the moon. Romantic, mysterious, and the subject of many Creative Writing 101 poems, our closest celestial body has also wormed its way onto many a watch face over the years. Moonphase watches evoke a sense of sophistication and elegance, and tend to decorate watchmakers’ dressier lines, despite their somewhat subversive practicality. Farer’s moonphase collection is no exception; first launched in 2023, it took one of watchmaking’s oldest complications and applied it to the British brand’s own design ethos. Here in 2025, we have two new references to pad out that lineup: The Stratton and Burbidge Eastern Arabic Editions.  Taking the same basic design of the rest of the line, the new Moonphase models are wrapped in a 38.5mm cushion case with curved sides that wear a “grain twist” texture. The case scallops in the 43.8mm between the lugs to make the strap sit flush, and a rounded crown with a solid bronze cap finishes the vintage-adjacent case look. Inside, both Moonphase models are powered by a Sellita SW288-1 M Elabore Grade movement, with blued screws and a Farer-embossed bridge. The Sellita movement allows for a 45-hour power reserve, and hour, minute, seconds, date, and of course, moonphase functions.  Where the models differ is in their case material and dial design. The Stratton Edition-named for Frederick Stratton, a WWI veteran, mathematician, and astronomer who would eventually serve as Director of the Solar Physics Observatory, among many other ...

Swatch Unveils the MoonSwatch “Snoopy” Mission to the Moonphase SJX Watches
Omega are once again dropping Mar 21, 2024

Swatch Unveils the MoonSwatch “Snoopy” Mission to the Moonphase

Swatch and Omega are once again dropping another collaboration that is bound to be a hit, the MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase. Inspired by the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch “Snoopy”, the new MoonSwatch features a moon phase along with an all-white Bioceramic case and matching white strap. Snoopy resides on the moon phase display at two o’clock, which features a hidden quote printed in Super-Luminova, “I can’t sleep without a night light!”, that is invisible except in the dark or when exposed to UV light. The Mission to the Moonphase is not a limited edition and instead part of the permanent collection. Initial thoughts Although the MoonSwatch has been a massive hit in terms of units sold – the total sold to date is in the low millions – recent iterations of the model haven’t been particularly exciting, with most of them simply having the addition of a gold-plated seconds hand. With the MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase, however, Swatch is bringing something more interesting to the table. While it certainly isn’t imaginative, the appeal of the watch is obvious. For one, it builds on the capitalises on the desirability of the actual Speedmaster “Snoopy”. At the same time, the all-white livery sets it apart from the other MoonSwatch iterations. Like the other versions of the MoonSwatch, the new Snoopy edition offers decent value at US$310. It is inexpensive, though it does feel inexpensive since the case is essentially plastic mixed with ceramic. B...

Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the “Amsterdam Star” SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils Feb 1, 2024

Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the “Amsterdam Star”

Best known for its astronomical complications, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CVDK) has created a special run of its chronograph with complete calendar and moon phase for its retailer in the Netherlands. The Ace x Christiaan van der Klaauw stAriadne Amsterdam Star is preserves the original design but adds a “fog grey” dial with star-shaped indices inspired by the “Stelline” dials found on 1950s Rolex watches. Initial thoughts The independent brand’s collaboration with Ace Jewelers is logical since both hail from the same country. The stAriadne stands out with its star indices that replaces the Arabic numerals of the standard model. A nod to the Rolex ref. 6062, star dials are relatively rare in contemporary timepieces, rendering this release quite distinctive. That being said, this is essentially an Ariadne with a new dial. Ideally, it would have been more interesting with mechanical tweaks to the largely standard Valjoux chronograph movement, a reliable but thick movement with shortish power reserve. But considering it is a limited edition of 50 pieces priced at €7,180 – about the same as the standard model – it is a reasonable proposition. A “star” dial  The stAriadne is the latest iteration of the Ariadne, one of the longstanding models in the CVDK line-up. Since its launch, the model has been powered by the Valjoux 7758, a variant of the familiar 7750 chronograph movement that has the addition of a complete calendar and moon phase. Last year, the Ari...

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces Jul 19, 2022

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Having made it a point to collaborate with contemporary artists – last year the brand recruited tattooist Dr Woo to design a watch – Roger Dubuis has now turned to Hajime Sorayama. Best known for his mirrored, metallic female robots – which were the centrepiece of Dior’s 2019 men’s collection – the Japanese illustrator applied his aesthetic to Roger Dubuis’s signature time-only wristwatch to create the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier. The Excalibur is perhaps the quintessential face for the Roger Dubuis of today. Skeletonised and sharply sculpted, the watch – as well as its movement – have been reworked by Mr Sorayama in the manner of his trademark robot drawings. Both the watch case and movement gain the rounded, mirror-polished finish that define Mr Sorayama’s work, which extends to depictions of Mickey Mouse and dinosaurs. A typical Sorayama work: Untitled, 2018. Image – Art Basel Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current offerings are ultra-modern timepieces that are done well in both construction and finish, but they are often overshadowed by their traditional predecessors. That’s a shame because watches such as the Monobalancier are amongst the better examples of a sporty, skeletonised watch. Already original and creative in both the movement and case, the Monobalancier is now made more appealing with the Sorayama touch. The artist has given the watch a makeover that’s subtle yet significant, reshaping some elements and giving most of t...

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Apr 15, 2026

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum

Anyone familiar with H. Moser & Cie.’s Concept watches knows that ‘concept’, in the brand’s vocabulary, means extreme minimalism with dials purged of logos, indices and numerals. Perpetual calendar complications are typically burdened with sub-dials, a profusion of hands and copious information; however, Moser’s transformation of the perpetual calendar into a Concept watch yields one of the […]

Introducing – The New Singer DualTrack, Ready for Travel Monochrome
Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – The New Singer DualTrack, Ready for Travel

Singer Reimagined is famous for redefining the chronograph, most notably through its groundbreaking Track1 series, where a central chronograph layout transformed elapsed time into an instinctive glance. The brand’s innovative, intuitive approach to complications is now applied to its first dual time model, the DualTrack. Reimagining the complication, Singer simplifies the layout and adjustments and keeps […]

Unique Rose-Dial Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” 3700 at Antiquorum SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” 3700 Apr 11, 2026

Unique Rose-Dial Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” 3700 at Antiquorum

One of the top lots at Antiquorum’s Geneva auction that happens in May 2026 is the hitherto unknown and likely unique Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700/13. It is a striking combination of yellow gold for the case and bracelet, a diamond-set bezel, and a rose gold dial with brilliant-cut diamond indices. Ordinarily a Nautilus “Jumbo” at auction would not be especially intriguing, but this one stands out for a few reasons. For one, the aesthetic is peculiar but attractive. The combination of a pink dial with diamonds on a yellow gold case is a strange one, but the watch is unexpectedly appealing. Even the small diamonds on the bezel add to the appeal. Moreover, the watch comes from the family of the original owner – and even includes the original certificate. Pink on yellow Consigned to Antiquorum by the grandson of the first owner, this Nautilus “Jumbo” is the only one of its type known and most probably unique. According to Antiquorum, the only other ref. 3700 with a special dial is the prototype with a white dial that sold at Sotheby’s about a decade ago. Notably, the watch includes its original box and more crucially, the original certificate that states the dial is “or rose, index brillants”. The certificate reveals the watch was sold in 1984 at Somazzi, a retailer in Lugano. Also included is an invoice from Gübelin from a year for an additional link. The case bears the serial number “559215”, with “215” also engraved on the flank of the beze...

Furlan Marri Introduces The New Meteorite - A Cosmic Twist On An Old Favorite Fratello
Furlan Marri Introduces Apr 10, 2026

Furlan Marri Introduces The New Meteorite - A Cosmic Twist On An Old Favorite

Furlan Marri has built its reputation by offering faithful mid-century design with exceptional detail. The price remains approachable for most watch enthusiasts. If not handled carefully, this could seem like a cheap trick. However, when vintage details are applied with care and the materials nod gracefully to modernity, the result can be a true knockout. […] Visit Furlan Marri Introduces The New Meteorite - A Cosmic Twist On An Old Favorite to read the full article.

Introducing – The Moritz Grossmann Tremblage Gold, a Hand-Engraved Anniversary Edition in Precious Metal Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Apr 9, 2026

Introducing – The Moritz Grossmann Tremblage Gold, a Hand-Engraved Anniversary Edition in Precious Metal

Since its revival in 2008, the Moritz Grossmann manufacture has focused on making watches with traditional Saxon construction and meticulous hand-finishing, exemplifying the idea of Schönstes deutsches Handwerk. The Tremblage, introduced in 2021, quickly became one of its most expressive pieces, showcasing a rare hand-engraving technique applied to German silver dials. Now, for the 200th […]

Announcing – The Naissance d’une Montre 4 “Le Carrousel” Project and the Birth of Bonniksen Monochrome
Apr 7, 2026

Announcing – The Naissance d’une Montre 4 “Le Carrousel” Project and the Birth of Bonniksen

Few initiatives in modern watchmaking genuinely place craft above product. The Time Æon Foundation is one that looks to safeguard and transmit traditional handmade techniques at the highest level. Its Naissance d’une Montre series has become the best expression of its mission, not just watches, but workshops of knowledge, where historical methods are relearned, applied, and […]

First Look – Holthinrichs Presents the Signature LAB Series 1 Small Seconds and GMT Monochrome
Holthinrichs Presents Mar 29, 2026

First Look – Holthinrichs Presents the Signature LAB Series 1 Small Seconds and GMT

10 years ago, a young architect named Michiel Holthinrichs had the idea to create watches… But not like every other young indie watchmaker. What made it unique? The Ornament 1 was the world’s first 3D-printed stainless steel watch. And it certainly had a design of its own, inspired by Michiel’s previous career. The specially-commissioned watch […]