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Exhibition: A.-L. Breguet and England at The Science Museum, London SJX Watches
Breguet Sep 12, 2023

Exhibition: A.-L. Breguet and England at The Science Museum, London

Abraham-Louis Breguet: The English Connection opens today at the Clockmakers Museum, part of The Science Museum in South Kensington, displaying an array of vintage Breguet clocks that illustrate the master watchmaker’s connection to the United Kingdom. Marking the 200th anniversary of Breguet’s death, the display cases are full of pieces brought together from private and public collections, with some pieces being shown in a museum setting for the very first time.  The poster for the exhibition. Image – The Clockmakers’ Museum. The headline exhibit is the four-minute tourbillon, no. 1297, made for King George III that sold at Sotheby’s in 2020 for £1.6 million (roughly $2 million) that many thought would never be seen in the country again after it crossed the auction block. However, thanks to the efforts of those at the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers and the Clockmaking Museum, it will be on display for an entire year alongside other rarely seen creations from Breguet.  The story behind this watch is worth digging into a bit, as it was bought at a time when England and France were at war with each other and so there was a ban on French goods entering the country. This is why you won’t see the name Breguet anywhere visible on the watch. Instead you have the name of the retailer the King went through inscribed in large lettering on the movement bridge. But if you pay close attention, Breguet signed his name in small letters on the tourbillon carriage, in the...

International Stars of Independent Watchmaking Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2023 Revolution
Holthinrichs Benoit Mintiens Sep 11, 2023

International Stars of Independent Watchmaking Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2023

At Geneva Watch Days Revolution hosted a series of symposiums, with some the watch industries greatest leaders, innovators and visionaries. In case you couldn’t make it in person, we’re sharing the stream here. In our session, International Stars of Independent Watchmaking, discover the state of independence with Konstantin Chaykin, Michiel Holthinrichs, Benoit Mintiens of Ressence, […]

Watchmaking’s Rising Stars Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2023 Revolution
Sep 11, 2023

Watchmaking’s Rising Stars Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2023

At Geneva Watch Days Revolution hosted a series of symposiums, with some the watch industries greatest leaders, innovators and visionaries. In case you couldn’t make it in person, we’re sharing the stream here. The star-studded panel for our discussion on Watchmaking’s Rising Stars included Simon Brette, Andrea Furlan, Stefan Kudoke, Rémi Maillat, Gautier Massonneau, Claude […]

Legends of Independent Watchmaking Part II at Geneva Watch Days 2023 Revolution
H. Moser & Cie […] Sep 11, 2023

Legends of Independent Watchmaking Part II at Geneva Watch Days 2023

At Geneva Watch Days Revolution hosted a series of symposiums, with some the watch industries greatest leaders, innovators and visionaries. In case you couldn’t make it in person, we’re sharing the stream here. The session, Legends of Independent Watchmaking – Part 2 features Ludovic Ballouard, Bernhard Lederer, Romain Gauthier, Edouard Meylan from H. Moser & Cie, […]

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Sport Auto 40, a Personal Take on the Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Laurent Ferrier Aug 31, 2023

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Sport Auto 40, a Personal Take on the Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

There are all kinds of watches that are tied to motorsports. Horology and racing are inextricably linked, and while the Venn Diagram of people who are into watches and into various aspects of car culture and auto racing isn’t exactly a circle, it’s honestly probably not far off. But when it comes to watches that are inspired by motorsport in one way or another, we find varying levels of refinement and authenticity in the products that make it to boutique shelves. It’s easy enough to slap a logo of a car manufacturer on a dial or make a caseback calling attention to a particular race, but it’s more challenging to draw a real connection between these two worlds, even as they’re so closely linked. One of the things that make the watches made by Laurent Ferrier so interesting is that the connection feels real, a natural result of the history of the team that founded the brand. Before he was a world renowned watchmaker, Laurent Ferrier and his partner Francois Servanin were (very accomplished) amateur racers, and the new version of the Sport Auto celebrates that history.  For watch fans who might not be familiar with Laurent Ferrier’s personal history prior to the founding of his eponymous brand, he did indeed make something of a name for himself in the automotive world at the 24 Hours of Le Mans race in 1979. Ferrier and his teammates (including Servanin and Francois Trisconi) placed third in that race out of 60, a surprising result for a group of non-professional...

This is why Buzz Aldrin wears three watches at once Time+Tide
Jul 21, 2023

This is why Buzz Aldrin wears three watches at once

In 2021, Deloitte surveyed 5,558 international consumers on their watch-wearing habits. Of those polled, 23 per cent said they wore both smartwatches and conventional watches. Admittedly, there was no mention of whether these watches were paired together. But having multiple options means that decisions must be made and I wouldn’t be at all surprised if … ContinuedThe post This is why Buzz Aldrin wears three watches at once appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time Worn & Wound
Jul 10, 2023

Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time

Itay Noy, the Israeli watchmaker known for creative and whimsical calendar complications that take a philosophical view to the concept of time, is back with his latest creation, the Seven-Day Cycle. Announced just days ago and officially launching later this week at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, the Seven-Day Cycle is inspired by the idea of looking at the passing of time on a weekly, as opposed to daily, scale.  The centerpiece of the collection is the “Rest Day” watch. Rather than focusing on a daily progression of time, the watch seeks to visualize a weekly cycle. The day is indicated via skeletonized text around the dial’s perimeter, but instead of the day of the week, Itay Noy has given the days numerical values (first day, second day, third day, and so forth). The seventh day (by default) is marked as the “rest day” at the 12:00 position. Itay Noy notes that different religious traditions observe different rest days, so the rest day on the dial can be customized to the owner’s preferences. Dials are available in blue or white for this reference. The Seven-Day Cycle watch is also available in versions that name the days of the week in a more traditional way. The format, though, is largely the same, with skeletonized apertures spelling out the days of the week that are highlighted day by day as the week progresses. The blue and white dials seen in this version of the watch have dividing lines that should aid a bit in legibility, but all watches in the ...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Formex Essence 39 is a stylish daily wearer at a competitive price Time+Tide
Formex Essence 39 Jul 10, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Formex Essence 39 is a stylish daily wearer at a competitive price

Formex can be seen as an independent brand, but is one of the few that borders the independent and regular watch markets. Independent because it operates, well, independently and outputs loads of innovative technologies and unique designs, and regular because the quality of Formex watches rivals that of established Swiss brands. The Formex Essence 39 … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Formex Essence 39 is a stylish daily wearer at a competitive price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hammer Time: Expert Advice for Selling your Watch at Auction – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 30, 2023

Hammer Time: Expert Advice for Selling your Watch at Auction – Reprise

Many of us have seen and heard the auctioneer’s hammer crash down on the final bid of a famous well-fought-over item. What interests Chris Malburg – apart from the artifact itself – is the seller. Why the sale? Is this is a one-off event or does he or she have more to offer? What brought them to this hammer time? This article explores motives for and provides expert advice on selling a watch at auction.

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe timepieces May 22, 2023

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having covered the extraordinary Patek Philippe timepieces and the single-owner “Ultimate Collection” in Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong, we now shift gears and look at the sales’s line-up of independent watchmaking. The independents in the sale are of course led by big names like Richard Mille and F.P. Journe – amongst the latter’s offerings in the sale is the rare Tourbillon Souverain in the colours of the Chinese flag. But alongside these six- and seven-figure watches (in U.S. dollar terms), are some underrated watches that might be value buys, notably the Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab. And then there’s the simply whimsical with the Konstantin Chaykin Clown II. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. The “China 2010” dial Lot 2215: Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab While Ulysse Nardin is not an independent watchmaker in the strictest sense of the term, it isn’t owned by a luxury group. And the Freak is still an avant-garde watch over two decades after its introduction, a watch so exotic it seems to have emerged from mind of a talented independent watchmaker. Which is true: it was conceived by Carole Forestier then refined and perfected by Ludwig Oechslin. So the Freak certainly makes the cut in this independents feature. And this particular Freak is incorporates some notable innovations. Historically a platform for movement-technology experimentation, the Freak evolved into the F...

Highlights: Patek Philippe at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe May 21, 2023

Highlights: Patek Philippe at Christie’s Hong Kong

After covering the notable in the upcoming auction of an impressive single-owner collection, we now turn to the highlights in Christie’s main sale, Important Watches. Made up of 159 lots, the sale encompasses a remarkable line-up of Patek Philippe timepieces, from the quirky and historically important, like the brand’s smallest-known repeater, to the contemporary and magnificent Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002R featuring a special-order black dial. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. But the most significant watch in the sale is undoubtedly the ref. 2523 world time with a cloisonné dial depicting the North American continent, one of three known to exist. Given its importance and value, the ref. 2523 will be sold as the sole lot in a dedicated auction. The ref. 2523 will be sold at 7:00 pm on May 28 – more can be found here. The ref. 2523 with a cloisonné dial Lot 2306: Patek Philippe Pocket Watch with the Smallest Known Repeater Compact yet exceptional, this Patek Philippe pocket watch dates to 1888 and is just 24.5 mm in diameter. According to Christie’s, this pocket watch is smallest known minute repeater ever made by Patek Philippe. It was most likely commissioned by a Spanish or Latin American customer, as indicated by the margins on the movement in Spanish. This pocket watch has a white enamel dial with Roman numerals in black for the hours and oversized minute numerals in gilt print. Several hai...

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5980/1400G – May 20, 2023

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023

The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 19, 2023

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne at Phillips’ Hong Kong

Having seen covered the best of independent watchmaking as well as notable complications and artisanal timepieces in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, we turn to highlights from one brand: A. Lange & Söhne. Long a brand somewhat under the radar and appreciated only by enthusiasts, Lange started to pick up in desirability over the last three years, resulting in record prices at auction for rare or sought-after models. Consequently, Lange offerings at auctions in general have risen in quantity – but also quality with more and more unusual timepieces coming to market. The Phillips catalogue includes 16 Lange wristwatches and we pick out some of the best, including the 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst to an unusual Little Lange 1 Soirée with a bezel set with pink sapphires. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkunst Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk (first generation) Now discontinued in favour of the updated version, the original Zeitwerk is arguably one of Lange’s most important watches. It remains one of the few digital-display watches even over a decade after its launch in 2009 – and is probably the most mechanically robust and reliable.  This example is in white gold with a black dial, a high-contrast combination that made it the bestselling iteration of the first-generation models. It was the only version with a dark-colour dial; the other versions, namely yellow gold, pink gold, and platinum, ...

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Audubon” featuring May 17, 2023

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After round up the best examples of independent watchmaking on offer at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, let’s turn to notable complications and artisanal timepieces in the sale that takes place on May 24 and 25.  Amongst the highlights are easy choices like the Patek Philippe ref. 5016P, the most complicated watch made by the Geneva watchmaker at the time of its launch. Others might go under the radar (and perhaps be good buys), like the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mystérieuse with its transparent time display and floating hands. As for the artisanal, a highlight is undoubtedly the Vacheron Constantin “Audubon” featuring a cloisonné dial done by the famed Anita Porchet, arguably the best enameller in watchmaking.  Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 836: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060/000J-8434  by Anita Porchet Enamelling at its highest level is an art form equal to the best of complicated watchmaking. Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s earliest but also best known enamelled watches is the series inspired by drawings from Birds of America by John-James Audubon. The 19th century American naturalist documented most of the continent’s birds in the landmark tome, the pages of which served as inspiration for the series of watches. For the “Birds of America” series, Vacheron Constantin turned to the best enamelers of the day, including Muriel Sechaud and of course Anita Porchet. Going by t...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille May 16, 2023

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips kicks off its spring sale season in Hong Kong with the first watch auction to take place at its recently inaugurated regional headquarters in the West Kowloon Cultural District. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI is a 248-lot sale with a strong representation of contemporary independent watchmaking, including the cover lot, a Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain I in pink gold – the first example of this coveted watch to emerge at auction. Amongst the other offerings going on the block are works from prominent names like Kari Voutilainen and F.P. Journe. The sale includes under appreciated gems such as a Parmigiani Toric Chronograph from the early 2000s and a unique Atelier de Chronométrie featuring a gilt dial. And there’s also a unique Richard Mille that was once owned by a Brazilian footballer Bobby Firmino. The auction takes place on May 24 (lots 801-925) and May 25 (lots 926-1048). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed here. The cover lot of the sale Lot 832: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCC I) One of the top lots – maybe even the top lot – of the sale is the first example of the Chronomètre Contemporain by Rexhep Rexhepi. As we detailed in our review of the prototype, the RRCC I is a gentleman’s wristwatch in the mould of mid-20th century Swiss chronometers.  With its distinct arched lugs and enamel dial, the RRCCI is instantly recognisable despite its classical styling. Notably, the enamel dial is made of tw...

Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023 Time+Tide
Tudor stole May 11, 2023

Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023

At Tudor’s booth this year, the theme was evolution not revolution. While the titanium Pelagos 39 intensely stirred the best-modern-luxury-dive-watch pot, the brand’s main Watches & Wonders focus was the Black Bay range. Watch Andrew’s and Zach’s live reactions to the new releases below, and read on for a quick summary of each. Tudor Black … ContinuedThe post Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.