923 articles · 6 videos found · page 14 of 31
Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling has made some big moves recently, first with the introduction of an exclusive new three-hand caliber, and secondly, by reinventing some of their best-loved legacy models. The new Caliber B31 made its debut in 2025, powering the 38mm Top Time B31. The 3-handed daily driver was a perfect platform to roll out th
Fratello
It’s time for a short confession: generally, I am not the biggest fan of skeletonized watches. While I greatly appreciate the possibility of witnessing a caliber in action, I much prefer to see it in action through a sapphire display in the case back. It’s purely an aesthetic thing because, as a design fanatic, I […] Visit Hands-On With The Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton to read the full article.
Fratello
After using a relatively common Frederic Piguet movement for almost 30 years, Audemars Piguet now introduces the 6401, an in-house automatic chronograph caliber. It offers higher accuracy, greater reliability, and a more refined appearance. The brand’s 38mm Royal Oak is the first model to feature the new movement. You can choose between a stainless steel […] Visit Introducing: Three 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs With A New In-House Movement to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The new openworked Caliber 7139 debuts in a Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, while the non-openworked Royal Oak gets an attractive new edition in blue ceramic.
Fratello
Last year, Audemars Piguet introduced the revolutionary in-house caliber 7138. The movement introduced a completely new, user-friendly way to operate the perpetual calendar functions. It also lets users adjust the calendar forward and backward, which is a huge plus if they mistakenly set it too far ahead. After the release of last year’s Royal Oak […] Visit Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
In 2025, Grand Seiko released one of its most important watches of all time, the SLGB003. The UFA, also known as the Ultra Fine Accuracy, came equipped with a new caliber, the Spring Drive 9RB2. On the accuracy point, this was a breakthrough that measured precision not by the day, or even the month, but by the year. In
Fratello
Daniel Roth introduces its latest offering during the LVMH Watch Week in Milan! It’s the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. Though based on the previously introduced Extra Plat watches with caliber DR002, this one has a special skeletonized movement (DR002SR). Honoring Daniel Roth’s heritage It’s no secret that I admire the new Daniel Roth watches […] Visit Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton Ref. DBBD02A1 to read the full article.
Fratello
Yema is always updating and improving its extensive collection. One of the main focus points of the last few years has been to equip an increasing number of its watches with a proprietary caliber. It led to the introduction of the Skin Diver powered by the CMM.20 movement last April. This year, the French brand […] Visit Yema Unveils The Skin Diver Slim Bronze CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
Sometimes, execution is a decisive factor in turning a simple concept into an awe-inspiring one. Armin Strom has mastered that art perfectly with its Tribute 2 series. Creating a watch powered by a caliber with a 100-hour power reserve is a simple goal on paper. With the Tribute line, Armin Strom has shown how to […] Visit Hands-On With The New Armin Strom Tribute 2 Aurum Edition to read the full article.
Deployant
The Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse is a commemorative timepiece released by IWC Schaffhausen to mark the upcoming Lunar New Year. Limited to 500 pieces, it features a 42.4mm stainless steel case, a burgundy dial with gold accents, and the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber offering a seven-day power reserve. The rotor is shaped like a galloping horse, visible through the sapphire caseback.
SJX Watches
One of the standout releases from Dubai Watch Week was the UR-Freak, a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin (UN) and Urwerk that embodies some of the most enduring motifs of each brand. More UN than Uwerk, the UR-Freak nonetheless incorporate’s the latter’s satellite wandering hours display, adapted to the Freak’s slow-moving flying tourbillon. A limited run of just 100 individually numbered pieces, the UR-Freak confers some of Urwerk’s disruptive cache to UN, a legacy brand celebrating its 180th anniversary next year. The wandering hours tourbillon To understand why the UR-Freak is such a compelling collaboration, one must understand what UN and Urwerk bring to the table, respectively. The UN Freak turns 25 in 2026, marking a quarter-century of the quirky tourbillon that introduced silicon to watchmaking. That innovation alone would have secured the Freak’s place in watchmaking history, but it was arguably more memorable for its unusual design that put much of the movement (including the escapement) on a rotating platform on the dial. The Freak One is an example of the typical Freak architecture. Ulysse Nardin refers to this architecture as a flying carousel, perhaps to differentiate the standard models from those with a nested tourbillon. Nomenclature aside, it’s technically a tourbillon by nature of its operation, which powers the escapement through a fixed-ring gear (which can be seen around the edge of the dial). In all previous Freak models to date, the mo...
Deployant
We next focus on the UN Urwerk collab. The UR-FREAK is a curious collaboration, and the first from Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk.
Hodinkee
The ultimate evolution of Chopard's chiming complications incorporates a minute repeater, grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie, and more in a brand-new caliber with dual certifications.
Fratello
A decade after its revival, Czapek once again surprises with an intriguing creation - the Time Jumper. This is a modern interpretation of a 19th-century pocket watch crafted by François Czapek. The 40.5mm wristwatch with a half-hunter cover presents a fresh twist on traditional guilloché and partially conceals the new open-worked caliber 10.01. In celebration […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Time Jumper - A Flying-Saucer-Shaped Half-Hunter Watch With A Spacy Optical Effect to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Longines Hydroconquest has been around since its debut in 2007 and in that time it has come to be one of the staple entry level luxury dive watches. And it’s certainly for good reason considering just how much quality is on offer for the price which is in no small part thanks to the brand’s positioning under the Swatch Group umbrella. Derived from the classic Longines Conquest collection, the Hydroconquest is a decidedly un-vintage inspired dive watch that rather leans into contemporary design. Given how much safer a vintage-inspired design is these days, I give Longines a lot of credit for developing and nurturing this collection over the last 18 years. After all, having the Legend Diver as a sibling sets a rather high bar. The Hydroconquest was refreshed back in 2018 when it gained a ceramic bezel which, quaint as it might seem today, was not such a universally available option at the price point. Here I will get into the standard model as well as the excellent GMT iteration that was released back in 2023. [toc-section heading="Longines Hydroconquest Case"] This watch is available in several case size iterations ranging from a 32mm quartz model all the way up to a 43mm all black ceramic case iteration. I want to talk about the 41mm size which is also likely the most popular for obvious reasons. Measuring 41mm wide and 11.9mm thick with a 51.1mm lug-to-lug height, the Hydroconquest does stretch out onto the higher side of that 50mm L2L, meaning it wears on the big...
Fratello
The Grand Seiko SBGM255 and SBGM257 bring two new dials to the classic Elegance Collection GMT. Both models preserve the 39.5mm stainless steel case and mechanical caliber 9S66 but introduce fresh dial designs inspired by the seasons. These new references serve up a restrained evolution of a design that has been a Grand Seiko cornerstone […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT to read the full article.
Deployant
The Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse is a commemorative timepiece released by IWC Schaffhausen to mark the upcoming Lunar New Year. Limited to 500 pieces, it features a 42.4mm stainless steel case, a burgundy dial with gold accents, and the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber offering a seven-day power reserve. The rotor is shaped like a galloping horse, visible through the sapphire caseback. Pricing for this model is listed at approximately €14,800, though regional availability and final retail prices may vary.
Hodinkee
The young duo has created a brand new caliber and expanded their design language, which is likely to grab new customers.
SJX Watches
Citizen marks 30 years of its upmarket The Citizen collection with a matching pair of limited-edition 30th anniversary watches with aquiline ivory dials. Representing the best of both worlds, the pair offer Citizen’s best calibres in mechanical and analogue quartz watchmaking: one contains the automatic Caliber 0200, while the other boasts the top of the line, feature-rich Eco-Drive A060. The Citizen Caliber 0200 30th Anniversary Initial Thoughts While little known outside Japan and certain enthusiast circles, the eagle-crested The Citizen watches are arguably the best Citizen has to offer, and also a tantalising value proposition. Both models are good in their own right, though the automatic is the winner here. The Calibre 0200 model is probably the best made-in-Japan integrated bracelet sports watch currently available, combining the impressive case and dial finishing we’ve come to expect from premium Japanese watches, and a significantly more upscale movement than the King Seiko Vanac or Credor Locomotive. The quartz model is appealing, The Citizen has plenty of other quartz offerings with the same movement but more interesting dials. The Citizen Eco-Drive 30th Anniversary Eco-Drive cal. A060 The conical bezel and flat lug chamfers of the Eco-Drive model are flat polished using a spinning tin-plate, creating a near distortion-free mirror finish. A Duratec “Platinum” treatment, with a hardness of over 1,000 Vickers, protects the case and bracelet, and also gives ...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, Grand Seiko revealed the SLBG003, which turned out to be one of the most impressive watches of the whole show. Housing the new 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, the UFA (Ultra-Fine Accuracy) movement is certified to an almost incomprehensible +/- 20 seconds per year, or roughly 3 seconds per month. That makes it, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate movement powered by a mainspring. It’s a truly impressive horological achievement. Of course, as soon as a brand like Grand Seiko introduces an entirely new platform like the UFA, enthusiasts are on pins and needles waiting to see what comes next. It’s not that we can’t appreciate what we have in front of us, but particularly with Grand Seiko, we know that variants are coming in the form of new dial options and case materials. If you had asked me in the Spring when we’d see the first derivation on the UFA line, I probably wouldn’t have expected to see a new watch so soon, but last week Grand Seiko dropped the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005, nicknamed the “Violet Dawn” for its deep purple dial. It’s always interesting to see what new watches in a new sub-collection come to pass, not just for what it says about where the line is going, but perhaps where it’s not. The SLGB005, like its predecessor, is what we’d probably call a small-medium size by today’s standards, measuring a conservative 37mm. Unlike the titanium SLBG003, however, this watch is clad in a st...
Hodinkee
Independent watchmaker David Candaux delivers a new double balance caliber in a sculpted 39.5mm case.
Deployant
Grand Seiko releases a new addition to their Spring Drive U.F.A model with Caliber 9RB2 which was first shown at WWG this year. The new release is in a special stainless steel and a deep violet textured dial. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. The Grand Seiko SpringRead More
Hodinkee
The 20-piece limited edition is inspired by Vacheron Constantin's automaton clock masterpiece, also unveiled today, and combines the highest-end artistry with a brand-new complicated caliber.
SJX Watches
Best known for its signature time display comprised of three off-center discs, Trilobe has introduced its first sport watch, the Trente-Deux. It’s yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet, but the Trente-Deux is more notable for being the debut platform for the new X-Nihilo caliber, which for movement geeks will overshadow the launch of the new collection itself. The X-Nihilo is a relatively simple automatic caliber, and many of its components are produced in Trilobe’s own newly established CNC workshop near the French capital. It remains to be seen whether this domestic manufacturing initiative will prove viable long-term; the recent past is full of false starts aimed at rebuilding the French watchmaking industry. Initial thoughts I admit a certain fascination for watches without hands, that indicate the time with jumping windows, wandering displays, and revolving discs. The Trente-Deux, like the brand’s other watches, is an example of the latter. The hour is read at the top of the dial, using the logo as a pointer. The minutes slip by through a window in the dial, and the seconds disc rotates around a central hub embellished with stamped Clous de Paris. The asymmetrical layout is visually compelling and results in a pleasing amount of negative space that somehow doesn’t feel empty. This might be due to the sunray pattern, which emanates outward from the center of the seconds disc. In terms of colour, grey and navy blue are safe, pragmatic choices tha...
Fratello
Omega not only introduced the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary editions in 2019 but also brought back the legendary caliber 321. On July 21st of that year, precisely 50 years after the Speedmaster became the Moonwatch, the brand introduced that movement in a platinum Moonwatch, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Platinum ref. 311.93.42.30.99.001. Omega Speedmaster Calibre […] Visit The Platinum 321 Is The Pinnacle Of Speedmaster Moonwatches to read the full article.
Deployant
Unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2025, the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium marks a new chapter in the brand’s ongoing exploration of mechanical and material innovation. Limited to just 50 pieces, this 43mm timepiece features a ruthenium-based Crystalium hour disc-each one uniquely formed through a vapor-deposition crystallization process. Priced at CHF 40,000, the watch pairs its shimmering dial with a black DLC-coated titanium case and the automatic UN-230 flying carousel movement.
Hodinkee
The brand's second caliber since the relaunch combines many Genta's favorite elements into one stunning watch.
Fratello
I bet you’ve read the expression “When life turns you upside down, simply adjust your view!” before. The saying came to mind when the latest version of the Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition arrived at Fratello HQ. This steel and yellow gold monopusher chronograph has an open-worked movement, and this in-house caliber 16.26 […] Visit Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition In Steel And Yellow Gold to read the full article.
Monochrome
With its continuing pursuit of offering aesthetic variations of unconventional mechanical design, Ulysse Nardin expands its Blast Free Wheel series with the new Blast Free Wheel Maillechort. The concept was introduced in 2018 with the Executive Tourbillon Skeleton Free Wheel and UN added spectacular limited editions with exotic dials a year later, and a Blast […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Valjoux 7750 chronograph caliber has been a mainstay of the Swiss watch industry for more than 50 years, finding its way into hundreds of watch models, under many dozens of names, and providing the technical base for numerous high complications over the years. Why is it so ubiquitous and still such an enduring presence in the watch world today? Here is a brief history of the "workhorse" mechanism that became the world's most famous and familiar chronograph movement. Valjoux 7750 Roots: The Vallée de Joux Sunset over the Vallée de Joux In actuality, the origins of the Valjoux 7750 go back much longer than the half-century it has actually been on the market. The company that came to be called “Valjoux” started up at the very beginning of the 20th century, taking its original name, Reymond Frères SA, from its founders, brothers John and Charles Reymond. The company, which specialized in making mechanical chronograph movements for military and sport-oriented timekeepers, changed its name in 1929 to Valjoux - a shortened reference to the scenic Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, where it and many of its client watchmakers were located. The firm’s most successful and historically impactful creations included the manually wound, column-wheel-driven, monopusher Caliber 22, in 1914, and its even more significant successor, the smaller, longer-lived Caliber 23, in 1916. In honor of the founding brothers' surname, Valjoux movements were inscribed with a shield em...
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