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Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Jan 3, 2020

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle

Chiming movements – as in a minute repeater or grande sonnerie – have been fairly consistent in construction, being both rare and difficult to master, let alone be improved upon. But over the past two decades, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed an impressive number of engineering improvements for its repeating movements, from “trebuchet” hammers that are hinged like the medieval catapult for enhanced striking power, to “crystal” gongs that are welded to the sapphire crystal to boost volume. This year, the brand has added to its list of striking innovations with revamped, ultra-long gongs in the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle, which was designed to raise both the quality and quantity of the chimes. The Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle with a grained, silver dial An elaborate case Available with the dial in either a blue flinqué enamel or a simpler, silvered and grained finish, the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (MGTRMP) combines a minute repeater with one of the most user-friendly perpetual calendar mechanisms on the market, plus automatic winding. The self-winding capability is important and practical, because the movement has a short 38-hour power reserve. The two dial variants. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre All of that is naturally voluminous, and packed into a large white gold case measuring 43mm wide and 13.72mm high. Though by no means a small watch, it is surprisingly thin for such a grand...

HANDS-ON: Is the DOXA SUB 200 “One of the Best Value Watches” of recent years? Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 “One Dec 16, 2019

HANDS-ON: Is the DOXA SUB 200 “One of the Best Value Watches” of recent years?

Creating a timepiece that needs to pay homage while simultaneously capturing the imagination of the horological community is no mean feat … in fact, it’s fraught with failure. Time and time again, we’ve seen new watches based on vintage timepieces be unveiled, only to have them fall flat on their crystal-domed faces. Unveiled at this … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the DOXA SUB 200 “One of the Best Value Watches” of recent years? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Want to have your watch story published on Time+Tide? We are open for submissions … Time+Tide
Oct 15, 2019

Want to have your watch story published on Time+Tide? We are open for submissions …

It’s a question we never, ever get tired of asking. What sealed the deal on your watch? What was the straw that broke the camel’s wallet? The way the light melts across the domed box crystal? The price you got from that uncle with a gambling problem? The day you saw it on someone else … ContinuedThe post Want to have your watch story published on Time+Tide? We are open for submissions … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Chanel Pocket Watch Every year Chanel Jun 24, 2019

Hands-On: Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch

Every year Chanel debuts a handful of timekeeping objects that are sleekly monochromatic yet lavishly constructed of precious materials like gold and rock crystal. They are beautiful, expensive, and the sort of object that would look at home in a US$100m penthouse. And because there are enough such penthouses to go around, these objets d’art inevitably find owners every year. Last year’s collection of objects included the Monsieur de Chanel Chronosphere, a clock within a glass globe supported by blackened-bronze lions, which was a five-piece limited edition. But the collection also included the one of a kind Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch suspended in a jewelled stand, an object that is simultaneously discreet and extravagant. Photo – Chanel Although the pocket watch and its stand retail for almost US$800,000, it is discreet to a fault.  All of the materials within are precious, but the entire object is almost monochromatic. The pocket watch can be removed and carried, but is more likely to function as the ultimate desk clock. Standing about 25cm, or 10in, high, the stand is polished 18k white gold and panelled in glossy obsidian, a black, volcanic rock. And while it does not look the part, the sculpted lion is also 18k gold, but coated entirely in smooth, black Hyceram, a composite of ceramic and polymer. The diamonds within the stand are substantial, but subtle – the lion’s paw rests on a 18k gold sphere covered in baguette diamonds. The big ca...

LIST: 5 things Cam wants (and hopes) to see at Baselworld 2019 Time+Tide
Mar 1, 2019

LIST: 5 things Cam wants (and hopes) to see at Baselworld 2019

It’s the most wonderful time of the year, at least for watch heads. Watch fair season is upon us, and with the year’s releases already coming thick and fast, it’s time to look into my sapphire crystal ball and make a few predictions as to what I’d like - and what I hope - to see … ContinuedThe post LIST: 5 things Cam wants (and hopes) to see at Baselworld 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 7 things Sandra hopes and dreams to see at Baselworld 2019 Time+Tide
Zenith I’m expecting Feb 22, 2019

LIST: 7 things Sandra hopes and dreams to see at Baselworld 2019

Following on from Felix’s crystal ball gazing, Sandra looks into the (not-too-distant) future and ponders just what surprises (or not) Baselworld 2019 might hold … Expect to see: A regular production Defy Lab from Zenith I’m expecting to see Zenith’s oscillator technology of Defy Lab in a series-production collection. It’s a great technical breakthrough that … Continued

VIDEO: Never break the chain … Breguet’s Tradition 7047 is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking  Time+Tide
Breguet s Tradition 7047 Dec 7, 2018

VIDEO: Never break the chain … Breguet’s Tradition 7047 is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking 

This watch is pure flex. And not just because it’s a beast on the wrist, thanks largely to that hugely tall domed sapphire crystal. No, the reason the Breguet Tradition 7047 is such a power watch is the movement. Not only is there a whopping great tourbillon whirring away - taking up the top half … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Never break the chain … Breguet’s Tradition 7047 is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Holding the last watch that walked on the moon in your hand (and quietly freaking out) Time+Tide
Oct 8, 2018

VIDEO: Holding the last watch that walked on the moon in your hand (and quietly freaking out)

Nothing hints at the story of a watch more than its imperfections. A thick scratch across the crystal. Could that have been a motorbike accident? A near miss with a switchblade? A ding in the otherwise smooth shoulder of the lugs. Something mundane like an errant car door, or seatbelt buckle on a plane? A … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Holding the last watch that walked on the moon in your hand (and quietly freaking out) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT Apr 30, 2018

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition

In the wonderful world of Grand Seiko, if it’s not using a quartz crystal – and, yes, that includes the Spring Drive – then inside is a Caliber 9S movement. Introduced in 1998, the Caliber 9S is the staple of all mechanical Grand Seikos and forms the base for everything from humble three-handers to hi-beats … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary Time+Tide
Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary Nov 6, 2017

VIDEO: The Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary

The hardest thing when recreating a vintage watch design is knowing when to stop. Some changes - swapping the plexiglass crystal for sapphire, and upgrading the movement - are logical, and others, like an increase in size to more modern dimensions, make sense. But the real art is knowing where to stop, and what to keep. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: Ultimate transparency - Hublot’s sapphire evolution, in 13 watches Time+Tide
Hublot s sapphire evolution Oct 18, 2017

LIST: Ultimate transparency - Hublot’s sapphire evolution, in 13 watches

First things first, what is sapphire crystal? Essentially, it’s the same stuff used to make a watch ‘glass’ and display casebacks, formed by crystallising aluminium oxide at very high temperatures to create an extremely hard material. Roughly speaking, it mimics what Earth has taken 400 million or so years to do, to form natural sapphire … ContinuedThe post LIST: Ultimate transparency - Hublot’s sapphire evolution, in 13 watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SIHH 2017 Audemars Piguet Overview: The Offshored Design Deployant
Audemars Piguet Overview Jan 24, 2017

SIHH 2017 Audemars Piguet Overview: The Offshored Design

Today, Audemars Piguet enriches its line of Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars with a full black version, made of hand-finished black ceramic. Day, date, month, astronomical moon, week of the year displayed on the dial’s outer chapter ring and the essential leap year indication hold pride of place on the “Grande Tapisserie” decorated dial. Housed in an assertively sized 41 mm case, the selfwinding watch’s larger calibre 5134 is fully visible through the glareproofed sapphire crystal caseback.

Review: Hublot BIG BANG UNICO ALL BLACK SAPPHIRE Deployant
Richard Mille May 22, 2016

Review: Hublot BIG BANG UNICO ALL BLACK SAPPHIRE

Hublot throws its lot into the ring with its 's Big Bang Unico Sapphire. With this new entrant, Hublot builds a foothold in the new fad of fancy watch case materials, the arms race of the Sapphire crystal. Other high-end or rather highly priced brands like Richard Mille and MB&F; have also joined in the match. Richard Mille's RM 056 in sapphire is in the 7 digit price range while MB&F;'s HM6-SV is almost half a million dollars.

Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch Hodinkee
Tudor Monarch It ain't always Yesterday

Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch

It ain't always Black Bays and Pelagi at Tudor. At least, not all the time. Since the brand returned to the U.S. market in 2012, Tudor's success has been rooted in the broad appeal of watches like the Heritage Chronograph, the Pelagos, and, of course, the Black Bay. These are heritage-coded, conventional watches that nailed the price point, specs, and aesthetic demanded by the enthusiast market at the time. In the preceding decade, we saw that formula become a playbook as the Pelagos and Black Bay evolved into increasingly specific slices of that original concept. But what about the Tudors that fall outside of the playbook? Remember the North Flag or the Fastrider? What about the Black Bay P01? While the playbook has successfully executed moves for left-side crowns, silver cases, and channel lugs, not all of the brand's explorations into other formats have been smash hits. And it's not merely a question of having a historical footing, sure, the North Flag and Fastrider were quite modern, but the P01 was a functional deep cut from the brand's archives. As a watch brand, a music act, heck, as just about anything in our oh-so-branded world, it can be hard to operate outside of "your lane". That can include what is actually your lane or what has become your lane in the current context of a given brand's media. For 2026 at Watches and Wonders, Tudor stuck to the playbook, offering refinement, additional specs, new bracelets, and the like – except for one watch, the Monarch. A...