Deployant
Throwback Sunday: Six luxury steel sports watches with bracelets
6 iconic stainless steel luxury sports watches: from Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Girard-Perreguax, Chopard and A. Lange & Sohne.
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Deployant
SJX Watches
Doxa Introduces the Sub 200 T.Graph in Steel
Most famous for making distinctively styled dive watches in the late 1960s and 1970s, Doxa produces pretty much the same watches today as annual limited editions. The latest is the Sub 200 T.Graph, a remake of a 1969 diver’s chronograph – the flagship model of its day and now a rare, sought-after watch. The watch was first reissued as a 50th anniversary commemorative edition with an 18k yellow gold case and bracelet at Baselworld 2019. Now the more sensible steel version has arrived, and is still faithful to the original in shape and style. Typical of 1970s design, the case is a chunky cushion shape and matched with a “beads of rice” bracelet. The dial is orange – reputedly easier to see underwater than black – with block-style markers and hands, also typical of 1970s watches. And all the luminous paint on the dial is faux vintage Super-Luminova in “old radium” colour, meant to replicate the look of the aged tritium on the vintage originals. And the bezel is Doxa’s own dual-scale bezel that has both the dive time in minutes and depth in metres, allowing for recording of time underwater without decompression stops. The movement inside is a “new old stock” Valjoux 7734, which is vintage and dates to the 1980s, but is not the same calibre as in the original. The original was powered by the Doxa cal. 287, a hand-wound movement that was a rebadged cal. 310-82 from Eberhard, a sister company of Doxa at the time. In its day, and still today, the cal. 7...
Time+Tide
Leap year? No worries - 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G was unveiled at Baselworld 2018 to much fanfare, as it marked the debut of the perpetual calendar complication in the iconic Gérald Genta-designed watch. It still retains its signature looks, with the embossed blue dial, integrated bracelet and 40mm size. It’s also got a pleasing degree of heft … ContinuedThe post Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The ultimate watch glossary - beginner’s edition, from bezels to bracelets
Editor’s note: Watches can be intimidatingly confusing things, full of obscure parts with funny names. In this first part of our ongoing series ‘The ultimate watch glossary’, we start things off nice and slow with some entry-level terms. Even if you’re all over these terms, this page is perfect for sharing with your watch-curious buddies … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – beginner’s edition, from bezels to bracelets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Bare bones - the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph
For all that skeletonised watches are meant to be about reducing mass, the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph is a watch with a lot of substance, and much of it ceramic. The case, middle, bezel and bracelet are all made from Rado’s signature material, and have been treated with a range of processes - keeping … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Bare bones - the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New Release: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Limited Edition
Audermars Piguet releases a 200-piece Limited Edition Royal Oak in Frosted 18-carat white gold case and bracelet, with cufflinks to match.
Revolution
The Essence of Precision: Seiko’s Grand Seiko GMT Anniversary Edition
Two years ago, in 2012, Seiko introduced a Tenth Anniversary model of their Grand Seiko GMT watch –one with a strap, and one with a bracelet. The Grand Seiko watches are very well known among enthusiasts –so much so that if you’re reading this story at all you probably know about them already –but the […]
WatchAdvice
(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical?
Zenith’s latest addition to the Chronomaster Revival line directly references its heritage models, but can the beauty of age be replicated? Let’s find out! What We Love: Old-world cues in a sepia tone Retro yet wearable case profile Ladder bracelet perfect for hotter temperatures What We Don’t: Sharp clasp still needs improving No hacking seconds Be old or look old? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 Just like us, watches get old. But vintage watches occupy the same space as old cars, Renaissance art, George Clooney and Anne Hathaway, in so far as they’ve aged gracefully. And while everyone wants a piece of that prime beauty, not everyone can get their hands on it. So too is the case for the original Zenith Ref. A384, first introduced in 1969 as the brand’s first-ever high-beat chronograph. Establishing the foundations for generations of Zenith watches to come, the A384 has since become a legend, rarely seen outside the upper echelons of vintage watch collecting. Getting your hands on one is near-impossible these days, as unfortunately we can’t rewind time to when their price tags was equivalent to peanuts. But what if we could fast-forward? That’s what Zenith asked itself when it introduced the Chronomaster Revival A384 in 2019. The first reference faithfully recreated the original A384 as if it had just rolled off the factory floor, with the iconic ladder bracelet following in 2020. This l...
Deployant
New: Biver AB - their first steel time only watch
For the first time in its short history, Biver releases a three hand watch in stainless steel with a steel bracelet. Here is the Biver AB.
Fratello
Getting Some Hands-On Time With The New Orient Flusso
Last month, Orient launched the new Flusso, an integrated-bracelet sports watch inspired by the brand’s historic Super King (“SK”) models. The watch combines vintage influences with a contemporary design language, signaling a fresh direction for the Japanese manufacturer. I covered the launch when it was announced, but shortly after that article went live, the watch […] Visit Getting Some Hands-On Time With The New Orient Flusso to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Biver AB is Time Only and All Quality
Having found critical and commercial success with the Automatique, Biver is continuing with the time-only format, but (slightly) more accessibly. The Biver AB is a manual-wind, three-hand watch, but keeping to the high-end approach of the Automatique. The presentation is discreet but precious. While the dial and movement are solid gold, the case and bracelet are steel. The bracelet is notable for being the same as that found on the Automatique, and is arguably amongst the best in class. Initial thoughts I am a fan of the Biver Automatique and was a little sceptical of the idea of a more accessible time-only watch. The AB, however, surprised on the upside. Like the Automatique, it is executed extremely well. The dial, for example, is an extremely fancy interpretation of the “sector” dial, rendered in onyx and yellow gold. The bracelet adds to the appeal significantly as well. It’s essentially the same bracelet found on the Automatique, but in steel. The facetted links are impressively finished, and more importantly, sit comfortably on the wrist. Pulling off a bracelet that is both functional and finely done is an achievement in itself. That this is standard kit for the watch adds to the appeal. The movement is a little less elaborate than that in the Automatique, but remains tangibly high end; it even has a grande sonnerie-style winding click. All the details are attended to, with bonus decorative flourishes here and there. Though a three-hander, the movement is fairl...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Mido Multifort TV Big Date Chronometer
Mido revived the distinctive Multifort TV case in 2023, building a collection of rectangular watches with an (almost) integrated bracelet, including fun editions with the retro TV test card dials. The Multifort TV Big Date is one of the recognisable models, with a strong geometric design, a large date display and an accessible automatic movement. […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Chain
What We Know There's a new miniature watch in town, and it's the Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Chain. Inspired by a 1955 Duoplan model nicknamed the "Chain" for its "braided" gold-link bracelet, the new high-jewelry watch reinterprets that design with a sculptural 18K pink-gold bangle. It features diagonal bands that alternate between black HyCeram (a high-gloss ceramic material) and rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, offering a contemporary take on the original's sinuous chain motif. The bangle is cast in a mold made specifically for each watch, with 36 cavities filled by hand with liquid HyCeram. A master gem-setter then drills and sets the alternating diagonal bands with brilliant-cut diamonds. The finished bangle frames a diminutive watch with a black lacquered dial, which has a "JL" monogram above the hour and minute hands, all surrounded by a diamond bezel—bringing its overall diamond weight to an approximate 2.73 carats. But despite all the jewelry surrounding it, the real star is the Calibre 101, the world's smallest manually wound mechanical movement. The story dates back to the Duoplan, which was invented and patented in 1925, before JLC introduced the Calibre 101 in 1929 using the same two-level architecture (hence the name "Duoplan"). At just 14mm long, 4.8mm wide, and 3.4mm thick, the movement weighs barely a gram, and remarkably, its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged nearly a century later. Today, each movement takes around 40 hours to assemble by hand, maki...
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Bianchet UltraFino Tonneau Black Ceramic and Gold
Launched in 2025, the Bianchet UltraFino Tonneau marked several firsts for the young independent: its first ultra-thin watch, first automatic movement, and first integrated-bracelet model. Initially presented in Grade 5 titanium, the collection has since expanded into sapphire crystal and carbon fibre, including a recent Maserati edition. Earlier this year, Bianchet introduced white and deep-blue […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Raymond Weil Freelancer World-Traveller Celebrating The Founder's 100th Birthday
What We Know It seems as though Raymond Weil has been everywhere this year as the Geneva-based, family-owned independent brand celebrates its 50th anniversary. The company entered the integrated-bracelet sport watch realm in June with its A.R.T. collection, launching a lovely chronograph—The Fifty—featuring a vintage, new old stock Valjoux movement from the year the brand was born, 1976. But RW is marking another milestone this year. Today, on October 10th (also World Watch Day, btw), Raymond Weil himself would have turned 100 if he were still with us. A frequent and enthusiastic traveler, the brand is paying tribute to its founder with a limited-edition model, the Freelancer World-Traveller. The star of the show for this run of 260 pieces is, most certainly, the dial. It's a relief-rendered world map in the style of the Mercator projection, rendered in textured champagne, against a dark blue background, representing the oceans. Rather than the brand logo, Raymond Weil's signature sits at 6 o'clock and above the date window. The indexes are applied and surrounded by a 24-hour scale in blue for the evening and beige for the daytime. The outer ring of the dial features 24 world cities and their corresponding time zones. Turning the knurled bezel rotates the city ring to allow for shifting time zones or tracking. The local time display features tapering baton hands filled with Super-LumiNova, while the GMT hand, which can be manipulated by moving the screw-down cro...
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review: The Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee Opens A Stunning New Chapter
I take the new Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee hands-on to see how the bi-compax anniversary edition compares with the existing Tri-Compax Chronograph! What We Love: Bi-compax layout gives the signature Millésime sector dial more room to shine The model retains the exceptional wearability of the Millésime chronographs Carries defining traits of “The Fifty” into a more accessible format What We Don’t: No date display for those who may prefer the added practicality No steel bracelet option! 12.9mm thickness may be substantial for those who prefer slimmer chronograph proportions. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Raymond Weil, like many other watchmakers, went through some turbulent times during the COVID-19 era. However, as is often the case, periods of adversity can inspire some of the most creative and important work. This was certainly the case with Raymond Weil, as it was during this period that the Millésime collection was born. While the collection was introduced in 2023, its development and design began a few years earlier. The brand wanted to create a new expression of its watchmaking identity, bringing together its history with accessible contemporary watchmaking. The word “Millésime” literally translates to “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, directly reflecting the collection’s inspiration from watches produced between the 1930s and 1960s. View this post on Instagram A pos...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Wren Vessel
New York-based Wren has introduced the Vessel, an integrated-bracelet sports watch with an unusually elaborate sapphire crystal. Designed by Max Resnick under founder Craig Karger’s direction, its futuristic case and crystal mark Wren’s first departure from the dive watch format and help establish a broader identity for the brand. Initial thoughts The name Wren is a portmanteau of Wrist Enthusiast, the online watch publication founded by Mr Karger. The brand’s first watch, the Diver One, was introduced in 2024, and Wren has stuck to dive watches ever since. The Vessel, however, is anything but a diver. By venturing far beyond its initial design language, Wren has carved out considerable space in which to develop its identity. In doing so, Wren has taken a page out of the Berneron playbook with a sophomore effort that is almost as different from its debut as it could be. Perhaps because the look is so different, the Vessel features an aqua blue seconds hand and winding rotor to match the dial colour of the original Diver One. The Vessel’s design was penned by British designer Max Resnick under Mr Karger’s creative direction. Originally trained in automotive design, Mr Resnick has worked with several other small brands, including Anoma and VPC. The vision called for an integrated-bracelet sports watch that avoided channelling the same handful of historical designs from the 1970s. The resulting look has more in common with Alto than Audemars Piguet. The angular desi...
Time+Tide
Wren’s futuristic Vessel proves the Diver One was only the beginning
Wren leaves dive watches behind with the Vessel, a futuristic integrated-bracelet sports watch with a wild faceted sapphire crystal.
WristBuzz
Wren Vessel: The New York Microbrand's Bold Leap Beyond the Dive Watch
Craig Karger's brand pivots hard with a futuristic integrated-bracelet sports watch built around a genuinely wild sapphire crystal
Fratello
Five Rolex Watches For Those Thinking Outside The Box
Say “Rolex” to most people, and their mental image is fully formed before you finish the sentence — a Submariner, maybe a Datejust on a Jubilee bracelet, something that has been photographed on a thousand wrists. For some enthusiasts, that image is precisely the problem. Rolex has produced plenty of watches that never made it […] Visit Five Rolex Watches For Those Thinking Outside The Box to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Review: The Tudor Northflag Gets a Second Chance
When the Tudor North Flag came out in 2015, it was met with a collective “what?” Tudor had chosen it to debut its in-house movements, a genuinely big moment for the brand. But the watch itself was a totally unexpected throwback to the fairly obscure Ranger II, an integrated bracelet sports watch from the ’70s that I don’t think anyone expected to see revived. It was interesting, though. The North Flag had a design language entirely separate from the Black Bay and Pelagos lines, plus a hybrid steel-and-ceramic bezel, a display caseback, and a power reserve. That last feature is still the only time Tudor has used a power reserve on one of its modern movements. The reaction was mixed. Tudor was arguably too far ahead of the curve: integrated bracelet sports watches weren’t trending; vintage divers were. Six years later, the North Flag was discontinued. In the meantime, integrated bracelet sports watches didn’t just become popular; they became almost a requirement. It feels like every brand has released one in the last five years, at prices ranging from a couple hundred dollars to a couple hundred thousand. People now look back at the original North Flag and think, “Oh, wait a second. Maybe that was a pretty cool watch after all.” So while the first North Flag was ahead of the curve, the new Northflag is right on time, or maybe even a touch late. It’s also a GMT, though you won’t find “GMT” in the name. The question is whether Tudor has made a better wa...
WatchAdvice
Hands-On With The New Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37mm Collection
Bvlgari shrunk the Octo Finissimo down, and let’s just say it ticks a lot of boxes! And to see how many, we’ve gone hands-on with both the Titanium and the 18k Gold models. What We Love The 37mm case wears closer to a 40mm while being more comfortable on the wrist. The titanium model is exceptionally light and easy to wear all day The Octo Finissimo still stands out from the usual integrated-bracelet sports watches What We Don’t The titanium takes some getting used to The Octo Finissimo is a unique design that will not appeal to all people The full 18k yellow-gold construction makes it far less discreet, which may not be for everyone Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When Bvlgari first announced it was getting a 37mm Octo Finissimo, I feel there was a lot of the watch community that was quietly optimistic about what this would mean for the Octo Finissimo collection. I first heard about these back at LVMH Watch Week at the start of the year, where we were given a bit of a teaser on the new collection. And having reviewed the larger 40mm model last year, I was one of those who were quietly anticipating what the new Octo Finissimo 37mm range could mean for the brand. Then, back in April, walking into the Bvlgari booth at Watches and Wonders and being able to slip these on my wrists for the first time, it wasn’t long before I was sold that this new size was a perfect sweet spot for the Roman brand...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Orient Brings Its Affordable Watch Formula to a Crowded Sports Watch Trend
The new Orient Flusso brings integrated-bracelet style, an in-house automatic movement, and Super King inspiration to a contemporary lineup.
SJX Watches
Breguet Expands Marine Fleet
The Breguet Marine 5517 and 5527 chronograph have been with us since 2018, remaining largely unchanged even as the rest of the catalogue has been thoroughly modernised. Now, the Marine collection gets its refresh with new dials and a range of materials, from titanium to 18k rose and white gold. The Marine 5517 in titanium Initial thoughts The Marine is something of an outlier among high-end integrated bracelet sports watches, being one of the few designs that avoids the 1970s-inspired styling that dominates the segment. Instead, the Marine carries design DNA from the brand’s heritage producing marine chronometers, dressed in a suitably seaworthy case and bracelet (or rubber strap). One of the most notable design changes for the updated Marine is that the roman numerals have been retired in favour of Breguet numerals. This update gives the Marine obvious Breguet design DNA, but some may find the mix of traditional Breguet elements on the dial with the contemporary case too much of a clash. The Marine 5527 in 18k rose gold There’s little question about the overall quality of the Marine, but the pricing puts its head-to-head with popular models from Audemars Piguet, such as the Royal Oak Chronograph, which is actually $500 cheaper than the 5527 in 18k rose gold. That said, the titanium variants are priced competitively, relative to titanium sports watches of similar quality from the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Six references, with bracelet or strap A little against conv...
Fratello
Fashionably Late To The Party: Introducing The Orient Flusso Collection
Orient reinterprets its heritage in integrated-bracelet sports watches with the new Flusso collection. Drawing inspiration from the SK (“Super King”) models that appeared in the brand’s catalog during the 1970s and ’80s, the Flusso modernizes the formula for a contemporary audience. Four recessed accents in the corners of the case reference the original SK’s protruding […] Visit Fashionably Late To The Party: Introducing The Orient Flusso Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
Celebrating With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary
Today, Vacheron Constantin launches a special Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin to celebrate the collection’s 30th anniversary. This limited edition of 200 pieces pairs an 18K white gold case with a new, lighter azure dial. Although the underlying watch debuted in 2016, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar remains one of the thinnest full-calendar integrated-bracelet sporty watches available. […] Visit Celebrating With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review: Going Green With IWC’s Ingenieur 42 Green Ceramic
IWC went green this year with the Ingenieur 42 Ceramic, and while we thought the black was good, this could be better! What We Love: The shade of green ceramic works extremely well The gold accents elevate the watch nicely The finish & light play make this a standout on the wrist What We Don’t: Still, the lack of the quick-link adjustment system on the bracelet The 42 mm case size may not suit all wrist sizes and types A full ceramic watch may not be for everyone, or suit some people’s lifestyles Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When IWC released the black ceramic Ingenieur last year, I was pretty impressed with how well the watch worked in the metal, or ceramic, I should say. The Ingenieur is already a very distinctive design, and creating it in ceramic could easily have changed the proportions or feel of the watch, but IWC managed to retain what makes the current Ingenieur work while giving it a completely different feel on the wrist. IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr talked to us about this last year, and how much research and development went into making a 42mm-sized ceramic version to mirror the proportions, look and feel on the wrist as the standard steel 40mm. It was an interesting chat, which you can read all about here. It’s not easy being green, as the frog once said! But maybe, in this case, it is! Not content to rest on its laurels, IWC released a green ceramic version for Watches & Wonde...
Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Presents a Pair of Laureato Watches for the Williams F1 Team
Last month, Girard-Perregaux announced its latest involvement in the Formula 1 scene with the Atlassian Williams F1 Team. We knew a collaborative watch would soon follow, and the moment has unfolded. Here, we get the debut duo of watches in the new Laureato Williams Edition lineup. If you’ve been reading my take on timepieces for a while, you know I’m a longtime fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. In the vast world of integrated bracelet sport watches, I’ve always found it to be one of the most refined and easily dressed up while remaining subtle and effortless enough for daily wear. With these new interpretations of the iconic design for the Atlassian Williams F1 Team, we get some of the sportiest takes on the model, proving the Laureato offers a versatile canvas that can truly embody both the “luxurious” and “sporty” sides of the luxury sport watch. As the brand’s flagship line, the Laureato has long served as the foundation for Girard-Perregaux’s collaborations and has taken many sizes, styles, and shapes over the years. However, the choice of this particular collection for the debut models in partnership with the Atlassian Williams F1 Team runs deeper. The Laureato was born in 1975, and the Atlassian Williams F1 Team was born just two years later in 1977, giving the duo roughly 50 years of shared history and evolution. Girard-Perregaux brings us two iterations for its inaugural line honoring the partnership: a chronograph alongside a classic time an...
WatchAdvice
Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar Ushers In A New Era
I take the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar hands-on to discover how the Maison has combined an ultra-thin complication with its first integrated bracelet design! What We Love: Impressively slim perpetual calendar architecture Beautifully executed integrated bracelet design Excellent proportions to suit a range of wrist sizes What We Don’t: Pink gold and toffee dial lack contrast Calendar adjustments still require a corrector No factory strap alternative currently offered Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.7/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a bold new direction for its Master Control collection with the introduction of the Master Control Chronomètre family. This new collection brings an integrated bracelet to the Maison for the very first time, while taking the traditional elegance of the Master Control and presenting it through a more contemporary design. Did Jaeger-LeCoultre Perfect The Integrated Bracelet Watch? (Hands On) Hands On With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Date and Master Control Chronomètre Date Power Reserve Reviews! The Master Control Chronomètre family introduces three new models: the Chronomètre Date, the Chronomètre Date Power Reserve and, lastly, the most complicated of the three, the Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar. Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Master ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Is Coming for the Rolex Datejust With Its New Affordable Automatic Watch
Citizen’s new Tsuyosa 60 pairs a 37mm case, textured dial, five-link bracelet and 60-hour automatic movement for $595.