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Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 which secured Nov 4, 2021

Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction

You may have heard a lot about Loupe This these past few weeks. The online auction platform, founded by Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg, recently hosted the charitable Pink Dial Project Auction, which raised $526,803 USD for the fight against breast cancer. They also auctioned off a generously donated Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014, which secured … ContinuedThe post Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021” SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Nov 4, 2021

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”

Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...

Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem Nov 4, 2021

Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year?

What’s been the most visually bonkers watch of the year? Possible contenders would have to include the Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem and the MB&F; M.A.D.1 Pink Dial Project. But fresh competition now comes in the form of the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021. To be fair, the dial of the original Zenith … ContinuedThe post Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Only Watch 2021: Independent Watchmaking Highlights SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue Nov 3, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Independent Watchmaking Highlights

The top lots amongst independent watchmakers at Only Watch 2021 are no doubt the F.P. Journe FFC Blue and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II, but they will cost six or seven figures. But half of the participants at Only Watch are independent watchmakers, so there are a few more interesting examples of the genre, which might possibly be reasonably affordable. We round up five notable watches amongst the “indies”, ranging from the quirky and fascinating Urwerk that’s an upgraded example of the brand’s earliest watch to the stunningly engine-turned Andersen Genève Quotidiana. Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa” Perhaps the avant-garde independent watchmaker, Urwerk is best known for revolutionising the presentation of time, having invented time displays using satellite cubes on a carousel and prisms in cylinders. But the brand’s creation for Only Watch 2021 looks nothing like its recent work, because it’s a quarter-century old, an artefact from the brand’s start-up days. The UR-102 “Gaïa” is a prototype of one of the brand’s earliest models – it is actually a vintage Urwerk – but dressed up smartly for the occasion, with a special case back decoration that signifies the brand’s success. The platinum case back is adorned with a sparkling, deep blue emblem that alludes to the Gaïa Prize, which Urwerk’s founders won in 2020 That said, being an Urwerk, the time display is far from rudimentary. While neither a cube nor a prism, it is still a wond...

Our Predictions For The Aiguille d’Or (Grand Prize) Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Will It Be A Watch Or A Clock? Quill & Pad
Nov 3, 2021

Our Predictions For The Aiguille d’Or (Grand Prize) Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Will It Be A Watch Or A Clock?

The GPHG foundation describes the Aiguille d’Or as “. . . rewarding the best overall watch among all the categories (best in show), also deemed the most representative of the watch industry as a whole. It is the most prestigious award.” In this last GPHG prediction discussion of the 2021 edition, our panel reveals who we think might win the 2021 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève's big prize.

Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s tourbillon Nov 3, 2021

Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch”

The first Chronomètre Contemporain was the watch that vaulted Rexhep Rexhepi into the top league of independent watchmaking. Now the young watchmaker has debuted the followup, first as a unique example for Only Watch 2021. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) resembles its predecessor inside and out, yet is entirely different in every aspect, from movement construction to the geometry of the lugs. But what it does share with the RRCC I is a gorgeously finished movement and thoughtful design. Initial thoughts On the face of it, the RRCC II for Only Watch looks like the original Chronometre Contemporain dressed in another dial. But it is entirely new in practically every aspect, right down to the geometry of the case. The RRCC II is akin to a generation of the Porsche 911 – the styling seems unchanged but it is actually a brand new car. The most obvious point of difference is the seconds hand – the RRCC II is a deadbeat seconds. That in itself is novel, because the jumping seconds complication is almost always implemented with a centre seconds. In fact, I can’t think of another watch with a deadbeat subsidiary seconds that isn’t part of another complication. In F.P. Journe’s tourbillon for instance, the deadbeat seconds is part of the constant force mechanism. Even the movement appears superficially similar, though it is quickly evident that it’s a new calibre solely from the two large jewels for the barrel pivots. This has twin barrels, in...

INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist Time+Tide
Nov 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist

With a watch as visually complex as the REISER Alpen Skeleton, it’s always hard to know where to begin, but perhaps the most unique aspect of its design is the signature Alpen case profile. Although the hexagonal case shape may be more than a touch familiar to most watch enthusiasts, there’s a lot more to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: Why it’s OK to keep buying the same sort of watch over and over again Time+Tide
Nov 1, 2021

OPINION: Why it’s OK to keep buying the same sort of watch over and over again

So a little while ago, I was talking to my hypnotist (long story) when he revealed that he had an intriguing side hustle. Away from his day job, when he wasn’t helping people to quit smoking or overcome their fear of flying, he’d created the biggest polyamory dating app in the world. Think of it, … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why it’s OK to keep buying the same sort of watch over and over again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Full Set Of Philippe Dufour Watches At Historical Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV: Grande Et Petite Sonnerie (Wristwatch And Pocket Watch), Duality, And Simplicity Quill & Pad
Oct 31, 2021

First Full Set Of Philippe Dufour Watches At Historical Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV: Grande Et Petite Sonnerie (Wristwatch And Pocket Watch), Duality, And Simplicity

In November 2021 collectors have the chance to see (and possibly buy) all four Philippe Dufour watches in one place, making Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIV what could well be the watch auction of the decade. Joshua Munchow takes a look at each of the four Philippe Dufour models on the block and examines why this is likely to leave its mark on the auction world for years to come.

Hands-On: Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monaco Oct 31, 2021

Hands-On: Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021

The upcoming Only Watch auction is an impressive catalogue of 53 one-off timepieces, a good number of which – more than a quarter of the total – are chronographs. Among the dozen chronographs, a couple caught my eye. One is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021. It’s essentially an evolution of the Breguet Type 20 created for Only Watch 2019, simple in design and execution but attractive in that simplicity. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 Initial thoughts Like another notable chronograph in the sale, the TAG Heuer Monaco, the Type XX is reinterpretation of an iconic model of the brand. But the Type XX Only Watch 2021 is a nostalgic reinterpretation with a chocolate-brown dial that evokes the aged, “tropical” effect found on vintage examples. That said, the vintage styling is its only weakness. The Type XX is almost identical to the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 – right down to the strap – though the point can be made that the two make a perfect pair. The Type XX (left), and Type 20 They are each inspired by historical aviator’s watches made for the military and civilian markets respectively (the vintage Type XX was marketed to civilians, while the Type 20 was supplied to the French military). So this year’s Type XX should go home with the owner of the Type 20 from 2019. Almost a doppelgänger – the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Notably, the Type XX is powered by a vintage movement, though one that is from a later period from an actual vintage Type XX. Still, giv...

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Oct 30, 2021

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001

Having set the record for the most expensive watch ever when the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A sold for CHF31 million at Only Watch 2019, Patek Philippe has created something entirely different for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction. The Geneva watchmaker’s entry for Only Watch 2021 is the Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27001M-001, a tabletop timepiece inspired by a pair of historical clocks made in the 1920s for prominent American collectors. The front of the clock opens to reveal the pushers for adjustment as well as winding and setting sockets Initial thoughts While Patek Philippe’s past creations for Only Watch were unique variants of existing models, the ref. 27001M desk clock is a unique model. It also claims several “firsts”. The ref. 27001M is the only example of this reference ever created to date – and the first timepiece to be equipped with this movement – and also the first clock Patek Philippe has contributed to Only Watch. This makes the ref. 27001M truly unique against all of Patek Philippe’s diverse repertoire. The inscription on the inside of the lid Very much classical luxury in style, the ref. 27001M is an appealing timepiece. A couple of details could have been done better or removed altogether, like “The Only One” on the lower edge, but it is still a good looking object. At the same time, it is mechanically interesting, since the movement is not only a 31-day calibre but also being used for the first time by Patek Philippe. Thoug...

Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster Time+Tide
Cartier Roadster Editor’s Note We Oct 30, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster

Editor’s Note: We recently presented our readers with the opportunity to submit their very own written “Every Watch Tells a Story” where they reflect on a timepiece that is very special to them and the narrative behind it. Here is Nelli’s (@tiffanyticks) tale of how she arrived at the Cartier Roadster and how gender-expectations confounded others … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Collector’s Crossroads: Does the size of a watch collection really matter? Time+Tide
Oct 29, 2021

The Collector’s Crossroads: Does the size of a watch collection really matter?

I know. I know. You’ve probably read dozens of articles about sizes when it comes to watches. Shoot, we wrote a pretty good one right here. Well, today, that’s not on the agenda. My question actually has to do with the size of a collection. How for years, I’ve struggled to come up with an answer … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Does the size of a watch collection really matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Orange Is The New Black At Only Watch 2021: 5 Unique Watches With Sunny Dispositions And Orange Accents Quill & Pad
Oct 28, 2021

Orange Is The New Black At Only Watch 2021: 5 Unique Watches With Sunny Dispositions And Orange Accents

Many brands participating in the 2021 Only Watch auction took inspiration from the orange-colored livery of the 2021 auction and worked it into their watches. While all of these watches are very different, what they have in common is their highly creative approach. Here Martin Green highlights five watches with orange in them from the 2021 Only Watch auction.

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 1589 Editor’s Oct 28, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589

Editor’s Note: We asked for the anecdotes behind your timepieces as part of our Every Watch Tells A Story series. Straight away, we got this cracking yarn from Tim @inversepanda about how this delectable Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 found its way into his grateful possession. If you have a story that you’d like to share, … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 rules on how to attend a watch get-together without making everyone hate you Time+Tide
Oct 26, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 rules on how to attend a watch get-together without making everyone hate you

EDITOR’S PICK: The home of Time+Tide is Melbourne, Australia. Unfortunately, this year Victoria’s state capital earned the regrettable title of the “world’s most locked down city” after enduring six lockdowns and more than 260 days under restrictions during the pandemic. The lockdown finally ended last Friday and the city’s beleaguered inhabitants are now looking forward to enjoying … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 6 rules on how to attend a watch get-together without making everyone hate you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: Why typefaces and logos can make or break a watch Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2021

OPINION: Why typefaces and logos can make or break a watch

When buying a watch, most people think about issues such as accuracy, water resistance or power reserve – but for me, it’s the typography that matters most. Before I go further, let’s start with a mini lesson: the words font and typeface are not synonymous. A typeface is a family of fonts (ie Times New Roman, … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why typefaces and logos can make or break a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch Time+Tide
Seiko H558-5000 Oct 23, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch

EDITOR’S PICK: Today, my brother-in-law, Pete, is doing a 24-hour bike ride to raise money and support of families affected by stillbirth and SIDS. The really crazy bit – he’s doing the entire 500km ride on a stationary bike in his garage (you can sponsor the heroic bastard right here). Anyway figuring he could probably do with a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours? Time+Tide
Oct 22, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours?

As watch collectors and owners, we all have, in some form or another, an emotional connection with our timepieces. And if, like me, you have hunted after many watches over the years, then you know that the journey can be, at times, more interesting than the destination. When we attend a watch meetup, one of … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.