Hodinkee
In-Depth: Three Post-Quartz Crisis Mechanical Masterpieces You Probably Forgot About
There were giants on the earth in those days.
Results for The COMEX Submariner Story
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Hodinkee
Deployant
New: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force in 18k RG
With the success of the premiere model in stainless steel, Armin Strom releases the Gravity Equal Force in a 18k rose gold case.
Deployant
New: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in Sedna Gold
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe model now comes in a version combining a blue dial and bezel with a Sedna® gold case.
Quill & Pad
Hermès Arceau Harnais Français Remix: Colorful Horseplay
For the Hermès Arceau Harnais Français Remix, Hermès’ watch designers found inspiration in a pair of beautifully harnessed horses that formed the centerpiece of a silk scarf designed by Hugo Grykar, who served as the brand's in-house designer from the 1940s until 1959. The dial is engraved Limoges porcelain painstakingly decorated with colorful oven-fired enamel. And the result is a wearable work of art!
SJX Watches
Pandemic Truths – Shellman’s Yasuhiro Kojima
One of the world’s most venerable retailers of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman in Ginza (pictured above) has long been a destination for horologically-inclined visitors to Tokyo. Shellman was founded in 1971 by Yoshi Isogai – the company name is a play on his last name, which loosely translates as “beach shellfish” – and is probably best known as the Japanese agent for Philippe Dufour and selling over half of the 200 first-run Simplicity watches. Two years ago Shellman was acquired by Komehyo, a publicly-listed merchant that has taken the business of selling pre-owned luxury goods to a whole new level with spacious, sharply-appointed stores offering items in stellar condition. Shellman is now the specialist-watch retail division of Komehyo, with six stores in Tokyo – including outposts in the city’s most prestigious department stores – and a diverse stable of independent watch brands, including Atelier de Chronometrie, Habring2, and Kudoke. It’s run by Yasuhiro Kojima, a 15-year veteran of Komehyo’s watch department who joined Shellman shortly after the acquisition. We caught up with Mr Kojima recently to discuss the state of the business, especially in light of the pandemic. Yasuhiro Kojima. Photo – Shellman The interview has been edited for clarity and length. What does your reopening look like? We take basic measures such as hand sanitisation before entering the store, measuring body temperature when entering the store, i...
Quill & Pad
Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Carbonium: Adding Lightness
The time-only Romain Gauthier Micro-Rotor already seemed like it was built around the concept of 'simplify, then add lightness' as it was pared back to the essentials while still maintaining the Gauthier flair. Now the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette doubles down on the concept and continues to add even more lightness everywhere thanks in great part to open architecture that has been skeletonized, laying the inner workings bare. But there's more to it, and Joshua Munchow explains all of it here.
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Throwback Sundays: Six Iconic Watches Revisited, from Our Archives
In this week's Throwback Sundays column, we take a look at six iconic watches that have stood the test of time - some with interesting stories as well!
Quill & Pad
Why Do Ultra-High-End Watches Cost So Much? Hand-Finishing At Romain Gauthier Sheds Some Light – Reprise
Why do high-end watches cost so much? To answer the question, Ian Skellern looked at low production numbers and high complexity, but the cost he focuses on here is hand-finishing, because unlike low production numbers and high complexity, ultra-high-level hand-finishing is not easy to appreciate.
Quill & Pad
Open Letter To Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin: I’m Sorry, I Was Wrong. Whether Geneva Watch Days Runs Or Not In Late August 2020, It Was Worth Optimistically Planning For
Whether Geneva Watch Days takes place or not, and whether it’s deemed successful or not because of all the travel and quarantine restrictions, doesn’t change the fact that there was a good chance that it could have run very successfully. Which means Ian Skellern was wrong in calling Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin delusional for organizing it. And for that he apologizes.
Time+Tide
5 watches that look good on any strap
It’s no secret that watches are expensive items. Whether it’s a $100 quartz Seiko or a $10,000 Rolex, you’re always trying to get the most for your money. By far the easiest way to eke out some extra value is to get a good collection of straps, so you can easily match your watch to … ContinuedThe post 5 watches that look good on any strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Swiss Newcomer Norqain Introduces (Relatively) Affordable Independence 20 With Upmarket Movement
Sabine Zwettler likes the flair of Norqain, a young, innovative brand bringing a fresh impulse by respecting the traditional values of the industry in general and Swiss codes in particular. She finds reading the time on this brand-new watch's unusual green dial with its charming scratches a real pleasure. What do you think?
Hodinkee
Auctions: Rolex Daytona John Player Special Sells For £1.215 Million At Sotheby's
It's a record for the JPS and for a watch sold in an online auction.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: BAPE x Swatch 2020, a Big Bold 47mm statement watch
Streetwear fans rejoice, Swatch and BAPE (A Bathing Ape for those not in the know) are back with another big and bold collection. As far as #details go, this watch comes fully loaded. Taking up where last year’s collaboration left off, this new collection is a colourful collision of styles. BAPE brings the disruptive and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: BAPE x Swatch 2020, a Big Bold 47mm statement watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: An Attractive Omega Chronostop, A Fascinating Heuer Runner, And An Extraordinary IWC Da Vinci
You're bound to get your fix in this week's round-up of vintage watches from around the web.
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New: Genus GNS1.2 TD Damascene Titanium with Editorial Commentary
Genus explores the world of metal artisanship, and uses a titinaium demaskening technique to introduce their latest - the Genus GNS1.2TD.
Deployant
New: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in black ceramic case
Audemars Piguet releases 3 new versions of the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph in black ceramic case, black dial and a textured rubber strap.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: MB&F; x L’Epée x Massena LAB
How can a table clock be desirable? My thought process is well on the way to becoming coherent, meaning Sellable To The Wife. She has a background as a buyer in the oil business, so I can’t tell her that the need for a USD$27,000 non-wearable time piece is driven by desire. The title of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: MB&F; x L’Epée x Massena LAB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review
Earlier in February this year, Raymond Weil unveiled the latest edition in their Freelancer collection. The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 is now available in a green version. Raymond Weil has previously released the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in different colour variants, which include; blue dial, black dial, rose-gold edition and a black dial with rose gold indices and hands. So what makes the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 model unique to Raymond Weil? It all comes down to the movement used to create this timepiece. Before the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 came along, Raymond Weil used all outsourced movements in their watches. That was until back in 2017, when Raymond Weil created an exclusive in-house movement in collaboration with Sellita. Sellita, as many may know, is the Swiss movement manufacturer that makes movements for brands around the world. The development team at Raymond Weil worked together with the designers at Sellita for a period of roughly 18-months, to come up with Raymond Weil’s first in-house movement. Although not entirely in-house, it is still quite a feat for one of the few remaining watch companies that are still family-owned since their establishment. To mark this momentous occasion for the brand, with the movement being a testament to over 40 years of beautiful Swiss watch-making traditions and expertise, Raymond Weil decided to name the calibre after the brand’s Swiss origins. The 1212 in the movement’s name refers back to the postal code of Ray...
Quill & Pad
Penfolds 2016 Grange And G4: Superlative Wines, Well Deserving Of 100 Points. Each!
Ken Gargett thinks that the Penfolds Grange 2016 has a good 50 years ahead of it, for anyone planning their grandkids’ cellar. Giving this wine 100 points is one of the easiest things he has done in ages. And yet, the day after the wine seemed even better. Outstanding. And he rates the G4 as good as it gets. Cheers.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph
With Baselworld 2020 cancelled and then some, Patek Philippe has been progressively rolling out its new launches, including a trio of “Grand Complications” in mid July (and hints of a brand-new complication at the end of the year). All three new complications are variants of existing models, with the crowd favourite being the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The new ref. 5370P-011 has a blue grand feu enamel dial and replaces the original, black-dial model that made its debut in 2015 as the ref. 5370P-001. The ref. 5370P-011 The cal. CHR 29-535 PS Initial thoughts The only thing new about this version of the ref. 5370 versus the first-generation model is the colour of the enamel dial. So everything that was good about the original model (classical design, dial and case quality, movement aesthetics), remain good. Needless to say, so do the weaknesses (mismatched finish on seconds hand, details of movement decoration). The balance assembly Though not a dress watch, the original ref. 5370 was dressed in black-tie colours of black and silver that gave it a stately bearing, but also a slightly old-fashioned feel. With the enamel dial in blue – it’s a gentle, muted blue – the new ref. 5370 looks more modern and casual, which is a good thing if you’re looking for something less formal. The outside Though a large 41 mm in diameter, the case of the ref. 5370 reproduces the proportions of the ref. 1436, a split-seconds chronograph that was in production from ...
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New: Casio BABY-G × beautiful people Collaboration Model
Casio releases a new BABY-G in collaboration with beautiful people, a Japanese designer brand. Presenting the new BGA270BP-7A.
Quill & Pad
Purnell Escape II Double Tourbillon: Double Triple-Axis Spherical Tourbillons At That!
Complicated haute horlogerie doesn’t get much better than twin triple-axis spherical tourbillons as found in the Purnell Escape II Double Tourbillon. And while in some cases less is more, here more is definitely more. The tourbillons are mesmerizing in part thanks to their high rotation velocity; they make full revolutions in respectively 8, 16, and 30 seconds. What is behind this masterful piece of high watchmaking?
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Review: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J
After 2018's salmon-dial winner, Patek Philippe presents the latest variant of the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270, this time in yellow gold.
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Throwback Sundays: Six Recommendations for Luxury Sports Watches with Rubber Straps for Summer, From Our Archives
In this week's article, we prepare for the ongoing summer season by recommending six luxury sports watches with rubber straps.
Quill & Pad
RGM Watch Company: American In-House Manufacturing Case Study – Reprise
Since its beginning, RGM has created dials and movement components to manufacture its watches. Over the years, the brand has expanded its capabilities bit by bit, adding machinery, technology, and personnel in an effort to have greater control over production and to expand its design and engineering options. Follow us on a tour of the RGM workshop in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches in Singapore
Vacheron Constantin is staging an exhibition in Singapore dedicated to its sports watches spanning the 20th century history. Best known for the Overseas sports watch, now in its third generation, Vacheron Constantin has curated a compact selection of six timepieces illustrating the development of the sports timekeeper. An 1998 magazine advertisement for the first-generation Overseas The exhibition starts with watches from the 1940s, including a chronometer pocket watch in the style of military deck watches. But the highlight, at least from a design perspective, is the 222, the brand’s first luxury-sports watch. Designed by Jorg Hysek, the 222 made its debut in 1977, the year of the brand’s 222th anniversary. Featuring a notched bezel and integrated bracelet, it was very much in the style of the decade. The 222 line up The watches are on display at the brand’s boutique at the Marina Bay Sands casino-resort, which is also marking its 10th anniversary. Exhibition information The Origin of Vacheron Constantin Sports Elegance In Watchmaking July 13 to August 24, 2020 Vacheron Constantin Marina Bay Sands Boutique 2 Bayfront Avenue #B2M-238 Singapore 018972 Opening Hours: 11:30 am to 8:00 pm, Monday to Sunday
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Chillout TGIF: Fujifilm GFX 100
We take a deep dive into the Fujifilm GFX 100, a medium format digital camera which is class leading in technology bells & whistles. A three month report.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Seldom-Seen Datejust, A Daring Universal Genève, And A Pre-Extra-Fort Eberhard
It's all here in this week's round-up of vintage watches from across the web.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi is Officially Open
Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi officially opened on July 20, a milestone in its independence as a standalone watch brand. Having been spun off from Seiko in 2017, Grand Seiko now has its own workshop, just beside the Seiko Instruments Incorporated (SII) facility where it was once located. “The Nature of Time” Grand Seiko recruited Kengo Kuma, the noted Japanese architect behind Tokyo’s National Stadium built for the 2020 Olympics and the interior of Grand Seiko’s Paris boutique, for its new workshop. The Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi was conceived to embody the brand’s ideology, “The Nature of Time”, with the structure coexisting with the surrounding landscape, while utilising natural materials. A material “greener” than conventional construction materials, wood is used for the structural elements and flooring of the clean room. “To balance natural materials with the room’s high technology technical requirements was a new and intriguing task,” noted Mr Kuma in the announcement. The result is one that sharply contrasts with the typical production workshop that is clinical-looking. In addition to the natural materials used in its construction, the studio is also operated with sustainability in mind. For instance, carbon dioxide emissions are monitored and minimised, while wastewater is recycled. At the same time, the company is working to preserve biodiversity in its local area, including by erecting and maintaining bird and squirrel houses. Gr...
Quill & Pad
3 New Pens From Montblanc, Caran d’Ache, And Montegrappa: One Classical, One Magical, And One Sartorial
Nancy Olson highlights three newly introduced pens to get you started on a tasteful journey toward a new normal. They offer a broad range of prices, styles and modes, and she thinks that any, or all, will add real pleasure to the already pleasant experience of writing a card, note, journal, or letter by hand.