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Monochrome
The Seiko Presage Style60’s collection is both popular, growing fast and a nice throwback to a bygone decade (yes, the 1960s, obviously). The latest pair of watches, ref. SRPL07 and SRPL09, don’t reinvent the wheel, but add classy touches with a slightly smaller case, a very nice new bracelet and a fixed bezel. Dial colours […]
Worn & Wound
Blade Show Atlanta is known as the mecca for anything pocket knife or edge tool related. Touted as the “World’s Largest Knife Show,” it offers an astonishing selection of blades, from cutting edge designs to traditional heritage pieces. Much like the Windup Watch fair, Blade Show offers a unique experience to explore new brands, shop exclusive offerings, and connect with their favorite manufacturers. At this year’s show, I was able to connect with some of my favorite brands, namely Big Idea Design, Notorious EDC, OEG EDC, Tactile Turn/Knife Company, and Benchmade: vendors whose products make up the majority of my carry and help me solve problems every day. While it’s wonderful to experience all of the vendors and their offerings, the one thing that takes this show to another level is the people you’ll meet. I love to chat with manufacturers and learn more about their items and work process, but I find the most joy in connecting with other attendees and content creators in the industry. Over the three day show, I was able to connect face-to-face with countless people who I’ve met digitally over social media, and have inspired me to create new content, push boundaries, and grow as a photographer. One brand in particular, Bober Blades was super interesting to check out in person their build process was exciting to learn about. From watches to patches, and pocket knives to swords, there’s no shortage of amazing gear at Blade Show. Throughout this arti...
Fratello
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we look at some of the best Audemars Piguet releases of 2024. With a new CEO Ilaria Resta now leading the brand, it will be interesting to see what the future has in store. In her first six months on the job, we have seen quite a few […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Audemars Piguet Watches - More Than Just Royal Oaks to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Frederique Constant Highlife collection launched in 1999 with an interchangeable, integrated strap/bracelet at an affordable price, making the desirable “luxury Swiss sports watch” accessible to many. The collection ultimately went dormant but was relaunched in 2020 to great fanfare with musician, producer and brand ambassador The Avener. In 2022, the brand introduced the Highlife […]
SJX Watches
Inspired by Russian avant-garde art of the early 20th century, Raketa’s collection of the same name reproduces the graphic, geometric style on watch dials. The Raketa Avant-Garde 0292 is starkly and characterised by bold shapes. And unlike its predecessors, the new Avant-Garde does away with hour markers, which detracts from legibility but makes it all the more striking. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Avant-Garde appears abstract but is actually entirely conventional with three hands on a central axis. While readability is mixed at best, the dial has presence. The boldly graphic dial instantly evokes the art that inspired it, though it is not a like-for-like reproduction. Of all the art-inspired Raketa watches to date, this is the most interesting. Priced at €1,625, the new Avant-Garde sits at the higher end of the range for watches of this segment; comparable watches would be those equipped with Miyota calibres. However, the Avant-Garde has the advantage of striking, original aesthetics that are coherent with the brand and its history. Most “artistic” watches in this price segment tend to have less coherent artistic sensibilities. Granted, the fact that the dial is inspired by Russian art may be a turn-off for some, but the watch in itself is an appealing one. Initial thoughts The Avant-Garde 0292 is modelled on Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, a Bolshevik propaganda poster created during the Russian Civil War by El Lissitzky, a leading artist of the R...
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines has just revamped its Conquest line of watches – the modern Conquest line – by injecting into it a new sense of color, and a not-so-novel, but nonetheless appreciated, approach to sizing. When it comes to color, the brand unveiled three pastel dial shades in its 34mm variants within the Conquest lineup. But other big news is the addition of a 38mm sizing where previously you were left only to be able to choose 41mm at the “large” end of the spectrum. While the eye-catching pastel dials in blue, pink, and light green certainly took much of the release spotlight around the new Conquests, they only come in 34mm sizing and I can’t help but think that the less flashy dials in the new 38mm format is the real show-stealer here. We say this all the time, but it’s becoming increasingly clear that 38mm is that sweet spot for watch diameters. More and more brands are dabbling in the 37-38mm range as well. I wrote about the Zenith Defy Revival A3648 (in my debut article here at Teddy no less) which clocks in at 37mm. Then we have the Tudor Black Bay 54, and of course the fan-favorite Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 just to name a few. In short, 38mm is where it’s at, as is the simple time and date watch format in steel on a bracelet. Just look at how popular the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is as a bare bones steel sports watch. Okay, that watch has no date, but it does bear a visual resemblance to these new Conquest models. I could just as easily throw the Dat...
Worn & Wound
So far 2024 is a year where brands have been belting out bombastic bangers of watches one after another. So, when a different take on a beloved complication is dropped, we naturally crane our necks to peek at what’s new. The first Swiss chronograph in New Zealand based Beaufort’s lineup highlights the old school idea of a doctor/medic’s watch with a pulsometer as the primary complication. It takes this complication and sets it inside a case and dial that are elegant, yet industrial, but some of the changes made to the chronograph functionality caused me to ask some questions. The Beaufort Pulsatimer, upon quick inspection, might look like your average chrono, but the longer you linger over its construction, the more you’ll start to notice its unique styling. The case is almost totally brushed, with the exception of thinly polished chamfered edges and a polished inner bezel ring. The polished ring steps up from a brushed base bezel ring like the watch is laying its own foundation. And rising once more from the step bezel is a significantly raised box sapphire crystal. All this architecture pulls your eye into a dial that dramatically drops from the crystal with the sloped pulsometer chapter ring. Then we find a beautiful, vertically brushed copper-colored dial that Beaufort calls “Salmon.” They also have an all black, DLC coated version, a reverse panda black and silver dial, and an all silver dial version of the Pulsatimer. The architectural nuances of the ca...
Fratello
Our friends at Collective Horology are no strangers to awesome collab releases. The team seems to possess the diplomatic skills required to push some of the greatest watchmakers to do things outside of their usual scope. In the case of Armin Strom, a brand that doesn’t shy away from combining tradition with radical new ideas […] Visit Introducing: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops For Collective to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer has unveiled their latest Carrera, another collaboration with Porsche, officially dubbed the Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963. As watch enthusiasts know, there’s a range of how “Porschey” these collaborations get. Sometimes they simply have the German automaker’s badge slapped onto the watch somewhere, and sometimes the connection is very inside baseball, like when TAG made a new chronograph movement that accelerated at the same rate as a classic 911. This new watch is somewhere in the middle, with some clever visual winks to the car that inspired it, but nothing new under the hood. The new watch takes its specific inspiration from Porsche’s success in endurance racing. The Porsche 963, developed under Le Mans Daytona Hybrid regulations, is the current pinnacle of Porsche’s expertise in endurance, a tradition that goes back decades. This is an aggressive take on the Carrera, which is a watch that we’ve seen wear many different capes in recent years. It’s a platform that is perhaps most at home as a traditional, elegant, gentleman’s racing chronograph, but can flex into something far more contemporary with relative ease. The 44mm case is stainless steel and coated in black PVD, and has been accented with a carbon fiber bezel with a tachymetric scale. Naturally we get a complex, skeletonized dial (nothing says “modern and contemporary” like skeletonization, I guess) as well as plenty of lume. The lume is actually what most closely links t...
Monochrome
Imagine yourself being completely immersed in something of the utmost importance. Every single fibre is zoned in on the task at hand, whatever that may be. The outside world has ceased to exist for you in that moment of complete concentration. And then…. an alarm goes off, rudely breaking your concentration and bursting your zen-bubble. […]
Fratello
Thus far, we’ve seen brands that mix horology with space and land exploration, car racing, coffee, and food. “But what about literature?” you may ask. Well, friends, I’m glad you want to know because, today, we’re going to take a look at Buci. This is a brand hailing from Paris, France, with a first collection […] Visit Introducing: Buci - Where Poetry Intersects With Horology And Horology Meets Vandalism to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The recent debut of the Escale Time-Only was actually the second instalment of the design’s revival. Earlier this year, Louis Vuitton presented the Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”, also time-only but with exceptionally elaborate dials decorated in a variety of artisanal crafts – all executed in-house at La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the brand’s Geneva manufacture. The “cabinet” is a trio of watches with dials featuring Asian motifs inspired by a collection of tsuba, or Japanese sword guards, owned by Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the grandson of Louis Vuitton. Ranging from enamelling to marquetry to hammering, the dial decoration is intricate and three-dimensional. From left: Koi’s Garden, Dragon’s Cloud, and Snake’s Jungle Initial thoughts Like the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour, the Cabinet of Wonders is a tangible realisation of LFT’s swift buildup of an in-house métiers d’art workshop that encompasses enamelling, engraving, and guilloche. The métiers d’art workshop is just one facet of Louis Vuitton’s ambitious, wide-ranging development of its watchmaking division, a project that is still a work in progress but advancing at a pace rapid enough that it will go far quickly. The dials are lavish, complex, and finely executed. Although they are each decorated with a variety of techniques, the different textures, colours, and styles complement each other perfectly. The quality of the work is comparable to that of Van Cleef & Arpe...
Worn & Wound
Over the past 85 years, Gerber Gear has made knives and tools that have become legends in their own right, from providing knives and multi-tools for soldiers on the front lines to making essential gear for hunters, anglers, adventurers, and trade workers alike. Today, we’re taking just a minute with Gerber Gear’s lightweight everyday carry knife, the Assert. Designed with daily use in mind, the Assert weighs in at just under 2 ounces and features a 3″ blade, making it easy to carry year-round. Whether you’re opening letters or packages, you’ll find the S30v steel blade holds quite the edge. Between the adjustable thumb stud, ambidextrous pivot lock, and textured handle, you can easily operate this knife one-handed, while keeping a secure grip. Over the past 85 years, Gerber Gear has made knives and tools that have become legends in their own right, from providing knives and multi-tools for soldiers on the front lines to making essential gear for hunters, anglers, adventurers, and trade workers alike. Today, we’re taking just a minute with Gerber Gear’s lightweight everyday carry knife, the Assert. Designed with daily use in mind, the Assert weighs in at just under 2 ounces and features a 3″ blade, making it easy to carry year-round. Whether you’re opening letters or packages, you’ll find the S30v steel blade holds quite the edge. Between the adjustable thumb stud, ambidextrous pivot lock, and textured handle, you can easily operate this knife one-handed...
Teddy Baldassarre
From the beginning of 1953 to the end of 1954, Rolex had perhaps the most productive and impactful period that any watchmaker had ever managed in a two-year stretch. The Explorer, the gold standard of adventure-oriented luxury watches, debuted in the summer of 1953 and the first Submariner, the quintessential diver’s watch, was manufactured that same year. The Submariner’s public debut wasn’t until 1954 at the Basel Watch Fair, but it wasn’t the only trendsetting Rolex watch the Crown released that year: the other was the original GMT-Master, the dual-time travel watch against which all others are measured. Photo: Matthew Bain We all are familiar with the three iconic Oyster Perpetual timepieces above, but few may be aware that Rolex released another tool watch in 1953, whose production not only preceded that of the Submariner and GMT-Master but whose signature design feature influenced the look of both. That watch is the Rolex Turn-o-Graph, the first serially produced Rolex tool watch equipped with a rotating bezel that could be used for timing intervals. (To be thorough, it should be noted that it was not the very first Rolex watch with such a feature: the Zerographe Ref. 3346, made way back in 1937, takes that honor, along with the distinction of being the first Rolex watch with a movement made in-house - with a flyback chronograph, no less. The rarest of unicorns, the Zerographe (below) is nearly forgotten today, rarely mentioned in official Rolex literatur...
Worn & Wound
A little over a year on from the release of the DB Eight, De Bethune is following up the mono-usher chronograph with two new variants, each in gold, and each of which offers a welcome look back at the early days of the brand. De Bethune is a brand well-versed in the avant-garde. The name alone tends to conjure images of remarkably blue tourbillons with spring-loaded lugs, and other sci-fi-esque watches. In the last few years, De Bethune has become well known for pushing the boundaries of watchmaking in both a technical and aesthetic sense - they even sent a watch to (near) space on the wrist of Michael Strahan. If you’re only familiar with De Bethune thanks to watches like the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon or the DB28GS Yellow Submarine, looking back at the early days of De Bethune might come with a bit of a surprise. Early De Bethunes stood out not because of any outrageous architecture or wild case finishing, but rather thanks to a refined - and very traditional - look, backed up by the technical prowess of Denis Flageollet, the brand’s founder. The DB8 was one of these early, very traditional watches. Though still identifiable as a De Bethune thanks to its bullet lugs and three-part case, the DB8 was (in most senses) a very traditional take on the concept of a mono-pusher chronograph dress watch. The new DB Eight is a fitting follow up to that watch, holding on to much of the original’s concept and charm, but with each and every detail refined and update...
Fratello
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we’re looking at some affordable dive watches. It’s been a while since we made a list of divers that don’t break the bank. Knowing that it’s the most popular watch category, it only makes sense to look at some of the latest releases, especially since we see new […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Affordable Dive Watches - Featuring Seiko, Formex, Oris, And More to read the full article.
Monochrome
While its name dates back to 1954, the Longines Conquest as we know it now is the brand’s vision of an everyday, versatile watch. Combining robustness with casual elegance, these watches effortlessly adapt to any occasion, from business attire to a weekend at the beach. Fully revamped in 2023, it became more appealing and more […]
Fratello
Seiko serves three new cocktail-inspired watches, and I am slightly concerned that going hands-on with all of them at once will lead to delirium. The new Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT watches come in outspoken “flavors.” There’s the SSK037 Skydiving in refreshing light blue, the whiskey-inspired SSK039 Rusty Nail, and the fruity SSK041 Acacia. What’s your […] Visit Taking A Sip Of Three Alluring New Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
What does it mean to be a pocket watch enthusiast in 2024? As a pocket watch appreciator (which I think is a distinct thing compared to a bona fide collector or someone who displays a real passion for these objects) I think there are at least two potential answers. The first is the type of enthusiast who is deeply invested in watchmaking history, and sees pocket watches as important historical objects. They are, for the most part, relics of an old way of life, and anachronistic in our contemporary world. But there’s another type of pocket watch enthusiast that is far more focused on the here and now, who can tell you about the rare (but often impressive) pocket watches made by some of the most respected luxury brands and independent watchmakers. Sometimes these pocket watches might be record setters, sometimes they might be contemporary art objects. Hublot, with their partner Daniel Arsham, just unveiled one that falls into the latter camp. Arsham is a New York City based artist who works in a variety of mediums, including fine art, architecture, live performance, and filmmaking. He is known for using a variety of organic materials in his work, like sand, selenite and volcanic ash, which makes him a natural partner for Hublot, a brand that has famously challenged preconceived notions about what materials belong in a “luxury” watch. The new pocket watch revealed last week, known as the Arsham Droplet, is both a full fledged art piece as well as an example of Hublot...
Worn & Wound
I have long been skeptical of the integrated bracelet sports watch. It’s a genre of watch that I’ve never really lusted after, and while I can certainly appreciate the craftsmanship of a Royal Oak bracelet or the collectability of a rare Nautilus, these watches have always been mostly about flaunting wealth, and they kind of all bleed together to look like one another at a certain point, which leads me to wonder what that says about the taste of those who prize them so highly. Still, everyone once in a while an integrated bracelet sports watch comes around that is almost accidentally appealing to me, usually because of how it undermines the tropes of the genre. I suppose I also just have a soft spot for the Maurice Lacroix Aikon collection. There’s something about the accessibility and variety of these watches that I’ve always enjoyed. The latest entry in the Aikon collection from Maurice Lacroix is the summer ready Quartz Colors collection seen here. The name, as is often the case, kind of gives away what we’re dealing with. These Aikons, with references in both 35mm and 40mm, are powered by quartz movements, and they do indeed feature colors. The 35mm variants give you the option of a “Sunset Pink” or “Deep Sky Blue” dial, while the 40mm watch comes in sky blue only. The smaller versions of the Aikon Quartz Colors are also accented with diamonds at the hour markers. The press materials for the Quartz Colors releases suggest that Maurice Lacriox was ...
Fratello
It has been maybe six years since I picked up this tiny Bulova on a business trip to Budapest. After finishing my meetings, on my way to the train station, I stopped at my favorite vintage watch shop. As I always do, I asked for something unusual… The owner picked up a black-dial Bulova, which […] Visit #TBT The Unusual Waterproof Case Patented By Bulova In The Late 1950s to read the full article.
Fratello
Watchmaking is a field steeped in tradition. Big brands pride themselves on boasting centuries of heritage. At the same time, the mechanical watch is, largely, declared technically obsolete in 2024. So it seems only natural that watch brands look to the past for design inspiration. Almost every major brand now has one or several reissue […] Visit Reissue Overload - Why Do Watch Brands Keep Looking To The Past For Good Design? to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The designer and founder of one of the most exciting young watch brands discusses the Mirage, exploring asymmetry, his time at Breitling, and a whole lot more.
With Father’s Day right around the corner, it’s a good time to reflect about what it is we love about our dads, grandpas, and chosen family. They show up for us at our low points and help celebrate our highs. With the seasons heating up (at least on this half of the hemisphere), Father’s Day can be a great time to get outside with the dads in your life and show them you appreciate what you have built together. In honor of dads, Citizen and Worn & Wound put together a Father’s Day themed gift guide, featuring purposeful and powerful gifts to celebrate your relationships and the endless possibilities you can achieve because of them. For a Dad that’s not like all the other dads, give him a watch that stands out in a crowd. The newest addition to the stylish “Tsuyosa” automatics collection, the “Tsuyosa” Small Second brings an impressive amount of sophistication in a sleek 40mm footprint. With a silver-tone stainless steel case and quickly-interchangeable bracelet, the watch can dress up and down for any occasion. The recessed 4 o’clock crown position keeps additional focus on the robust dial which includes a textured pattern, a contrasting 6 o’clock seconds counter, and additional silver-tone details to keep the watch seamlessly attractive. With an in-house Citizen Caliber 8322 movement capable of a 60-hour power reserve, the “Tsuyosa” is available in Gray, Green, or Blue starting at $550. The post Get Personal and Purposeful with the Father’s Day ...
Fratello
The notion of a revived national brand is rare these days. French watchmaking has Cartier at the top and Yema on the accessible end of the spectrum, while Italy has Bvlgari. But what about the southern part of Europe? Do you remember Cauny? Familiar to lovers of mid-century vintage, the brand was based in La […] Visit Embracing Architecture And Watchmaking With Cauny And Pritzker Prize-Winning Architect Eduardo Souto Moura to read the full article.
Fratello
Following the two MoonSwatch Snoopy watches (here), Swatch introduces three new models based on Omega’s iconic Speedmaster design. The previous MoonSwatch introductions linked to Apollo 13’s Snoopy models from Omega, and the new MoonSwatch models pay tribute to the beauty of planet Earth. Three new models will go on sale at Swatch boutiques on June […] Visit Three New MoonSwatch Mission On Earth Editions - Lava, Polar Lights, And Desert to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Watch Co. of Japan has been making watches for 100 years, and a glance at the brand’s current portfolio reveals that quite a few of those watches are dive watches. It’s not surprising, since Citizen has been in the business of supplying watches for divers since the early 1980s, and has been extending the variety of styles, functionalities, and even movement types available in the various collections ever since. So how do you decide on whether you want your first (or next) Citizen dive watch to be an Eco-Drive or an automatic? An everyday-wear Fugu, a multipurpose Aqualand, or a deep-diving Eco-Zilla? Our comprehensive guide is here to help you, with a brief history of Citizen dive watches and a rundown of all the styles available today. Swiss watchmakers began embracing purpose-built, water-resistant divers’ watches in the early 1950s, while their contemporaries in Japan came aboard a decade or so later. As many history-minded watch enthusiasts are aware, it was Citizen’s competitor, Seiko, that released the first Japanese-made divers’ watch, in 1965. However, Citizen’s Parawater, regarded as the first “water-resistant” Japanese watch, preceded it to market six years earlier, in 1959. The Parawater watches (as above) were waterproof to 50 meters of depth, an impressive feat for the era, and they were the forerunners of Citizen’s contemporary line of dive watches, which began in the 1960s but really kicked into gear with the release of the Promast...
Monochrome
Under its Presage Craftsmanship Series, Seiko has demonstrated its expertise in manufacturing handsome dials, using traditional techniques and paying tribute to its country of origin, Japan. Beautiful dials with significant added value using Shippo enamel, Urushi lacquer and Arita porcelain, are at the core of this collection. Last year, Seiko launched a trio of Presage […]
Worn & Wound
Every year, the conversation begins anew. As the weather gets warmer, watch enthusiasts reach for the “summer watch.” But what is a summer watch, anyway? Can a watch have an inherent seasonality? If there are summer watches, are there also winter watches, or autumn watches? These are the existential questions that keep watch collectors up at night, frankly. While we might not have all the answers, we do have picks for our favorite summer watches, however we choose to define the term. Our editorial team weighs in on their favorite summer watches below, but we want to hear from you. What are you wearing this summer? Is it any different from what you wear at any other time of year? And how do you define a summer watch anyway? Let us know in the comments. Zach Weiss Despite being a June baby, I hate the summer. It’s too hot, especially in NYC in August when the humidity really kicks in. The pavement radiates heat back up at you, and everything that never smelled good to begin with is much more potent. Let me tell you, the subways are worse than they’ve been at any point in my lifetime. I also walk a lot. I walk a few miles to the office and then home again in the evening, so comfort and sweat are on my mind. Because of this, I don’t think about my watches in terms of the season but rather straps, as they can make all the difference on a humid 90-degree day, which, for me, really means mil-straps. I don’t want to ruin my leather straps with sweat. I find brace...
Worn & Wound
One of the highlights of the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco last month was the plethora of amazing programming that took place throughout all three days of the event. The Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason had an ideal room dedicated to creating the kind of panel content that we’re fond of making here at Worn & Wound. Fortunately, we had a slew of incredible industry professionals on site to glean some great insights! Here’s a roundup of panels from the big show. Time on Screen: Dunkirk with William Wood In celebration of the release of their most ambitious watch to date, William Wood CEO Jonny Garrett joined Zach Kazan and Kyle Snarr on stage at the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair to talk about Nolan’s film and share the story of the Dunkirk Watch. The new limited edition watch was made in partnership with and in tribute to the Massey Shaw, a London Fire Brigade Fire Boat that played an important role in evacuating British forces from Dunkirk Beach in the early stages of World War II. Introducing the Christopher Ward Twelve X Zach Kazan sits down with Mike France, CEO of Christopher Ward, to chat about one of the absolute highlight watches of the show: The Twelve X. For the 10th anniversary of the SH21, new for 2024, Christopher Ward has debuted the Twelve X. Not their first skeletonized watch, they claim to have removed even more material than ever before, exposing parts of the movement that have previously been hidden. The Twelve X will be an open series watch, de...
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