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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Urwerk Takes the UR100V Back to Basics with New “Magic T” Worn & Wound
Urwerk Takes May 4, 2023

Urwerk Takes the UR100V Back to Basics with New “Magic T”

Urwerk released the UR100 concept to the world in late 2019 with a watch called SpaceTime.  The watch served as a new entry point to the brand, recalling the simplicity of their original 101 and 102 concepts, with an open view to their modern wandering hour carriage design. It was pure Urwerk, and it was also among their most wearable modern watches. The UR100V has matured over the years, with the addition of new materials, colors, and even strap options. It’s a watch that’s proven remarkably adept at expanding its personality in a variety of directions, from the Mayan style ‘Time and Culture’ to the other-worldly P.02 done with Collective Horology. At its core, though, the UR100 is a simple concept, and the latest addition to the collection leans into that simplicity.  The newest UR100V, dubbed the Magic T, gets a monochromatic treatment, presented in full bead blasted titanium from the case to the bracelet. The 3 dimensional dial adheres to the theme as well, with only sparse use of colors to aid in the legibility of telling the time (did I mention that this thing tells the time?). The Magic T is a distillation of the UR100 concept, a near bookend to the original SpaceTime, and an overall cleaner representation of the concept, which at its core, remains unchanged. Time is read via the hand rotating along the minute track at the bottom of the dial (if it can be called that?). The hand itself is attached to one of three hour carriages which house the rotating hou...

Watches With Two Timezones: 24 Best Travel Watches from Entry-Level to Teddy Baldassarre
May 2, 2023

Watches With Two Timezones: 24 Best Travel Watches from Entry-Level to

Aimed at frequent travelers, watches with two timezones are among the most practical of complicated timepieces. Even in an era in which it's easier than ever to check one's current time on any mobile device, being able to read two distinct times more or less simultaneously with a simple glance at one's wrist is still a compelling argument to recommend such a watch to anyone whose work or leisure takes them far from home on a regular basis. In this article we take a look at a range of dual-time watches (also called "GMT" watches, named for the calculation of "Greenwich Mean Time," or the worldwide 24-hour timekeeping system based upon the Greenwich Meridian in London), priced from entry-level to high luxury, from a variety of watchmakers large and small.  Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Price: $391, Case: 42mm, Lug Width: 26mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water-Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz Eco-Drive, Water-Resistance: 200m The Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Black PVD sports a highly technical dial that takes its cues from instruments in the cockpits of U.S. military helicopters. The watch’s 42-mm case is made of black PVD-coated stainless steel and its black dial is packed with scales in contrasting white type that are of particular use to aviators and navigators, including the circular slide rule printed on the ion-plated rotating bezel. Two luminous central hands display the current time, while an airplane-tipped smaller hand shows the time in another time zone on a 24-hour sc...

Yema Introduces a Wide Range of Field Watches to Their Urban Sport Collection Worn & Wound
Yema May 1, 2023

Yema Introduces a Wide Range of Field Watches to Their Urban Sport Collection

As it is currently constructed, Yema’s Urban Sport watch collection is made up of two models – the Wristmaster Micro Rotor and the Wristmaster Traveller. Both use an octagonal profile, a unique bit-like fixed bezel and an integrated steel bracelet design. Besides the dial, their in-house movements which include the micro rotor equipped CMM.20 (a brand first) and the YEMA2000 are what distinguishes each model. But if a more traditional, round-cased silhouette with a splash of neo-vintage character is what you’re after, then this incoming batch hitting Yema’s Urban Sport collection might tickle your fancy. The new Yema Urban Field comprises ten watches with five various dial colors, two different case sizes, and a Swiss manual winding movement. In the world of sport-casual field watches, there has always been this ongoing debate as to what is the appropriate case size for a solid everyday wearing field watch. Those who lean strongly towards the purist end of the spectrum might say 36mm, or bust. The enthusiast who prefers a more contemporary wearing watch might argue that 40mm is the way to go. Whatever your preference is, Yema is looking to cover the entire ground by offering a svelte 37.5mm case and a modern 40mm case, respectively. Both the 37.5mm and 40mm case sizes get the same set of five dial colorways. Each dial is embellished with a sandblasted finish that provides a sea of grainy-like texture that surrounds the more muted appearance of both the markers and ...

Leica Introduces a Pair of New Watches Inspired by their M11 Monochrom Camera Worn & Wound
May 1, 2023

Leica Introduces a Pair of New Watches Inspired by their M11 Monochrom Camera

The worlds of photography and horology are inextricably linked in a number of ways. Both, of course, deal in precision. And time is essential to watchmaking in a very obvious way, and to photography in more subtle ways – the length of an exposure, of course, but also in how an image captures a single moment, and how many images, across a longer period of time, give us a particular impression of a subject. It shouldn’t be surprising to anyone that the Venn Diagram between these two pursuits covers so much shared ground, and it similarly shouldn’t be shocking that established brands in each enthusiast area have made attempts to explicitly link their products to those of their counterpart. Zach just brought us a review of an interesting photography themed watch from Horage, and now we have news of a new watch from Leica, the well respected German camera manufacturer.  As seasoned as Leica is in the world of cameras, they are brand new to watches, only dipping into the space last year with their debut collection. This new pair of watches represent what is essentially a new colorway for the watches that were unveiled last year. The new ZM 1 and ZM 2 references seen here are inspired by Leica’s latest black and white only camera, the M11 Monochrom. These Monochrom Edition watches, as you’ve probably guessed, have been sapped of all color, with a dial that is essentially black on black, with only the most minimal stark white accents on the dial that draw your attention...

Business News: F.P. Journe to Open Boutique in London SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 1, 2023

Business News: F.P. Journe to Open Boutique in London

Having been the subject of chatter since the beginning of 2023, the F.P. Journe boutique in London is now official. Located at 33 Bruton Street, around the corner from Hermès in London’s upmarket Mayfair district, the store is slated to open in early summer. Although F.P. Journe has been in London almost since its founding in 1999, it was always represented by retailers. Now, as is the case in many other cities, F.P. Journe is bringing things in-house. The brand’s 11th boutique, the new London store joins its long-established outposts in Tokyo, Geneva, and Hong Kong, giving F.P. Journe a major presence in yet another key city. The upcoming boutique at 33 Bruton Street Given the mismatched supply and demand for F.P. Journe watches – it makes about 1,000 watches a year and enjoys demand many multiples of that – the business rationale of the new boutique might be hard to grasp, at least on its face. But given that Mr Journe has already spoken of consolidating his brand’s retail network around the world – word has it that even some boutiques might not be spared – it can be inferred that the London boutique will be receiving some of the inventory that would have otherwise gone to the soon-to-be-closed locations. According to industry insiders, the team for the new boutique has already been hired, with a respected industry veteran slated to take the helm of the store. Regardless of his or her talents, the boutique’s manager will likely need to be adept at managi...

20 Unisex Watches, From Entry-Level to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 27, 2023

20 Unisex Watches, From Entry-Level to Luxury

While the definition of what constitutes a unisex watch in 2023 can vary widely, it's fairly undeniable that watchmakers are putting a great deal of effort into designing and producing watches that will appeal simultaneously to prospective male and female customers alike. Decision-makers at the brands, it turns out, are becoming more and more attuned to the truism that not all men are looking for wrist-dominating titans and not all women are enticed by lilliputians encrusted in dazzling stones. Acknowledging up front that watch enthusiasts' tastes are as infinite as the styles available to them - in short, any watch can be a men's or a ladies' watch, even if it's marketed otherwise - we take a crack here at assembling a list of unisex watches based on a handful of loose criteria, including size (most under 38mm), genre elements (neither too tool-oriented or overtly jewelry-focused), and color choices (more daring hues than sober ones). As per tradition, we cover a wide range of choices in many price segments, in ascending order from under $200 to over $50,000. Timex Marlin Hand Wound 34mm Price: $139, Case Size: 34 mm, Thickness: 10 mm, Lug To Lug: 41 mm, Strap Width: 18 mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Mechanical Hand-wind The vintage-look Timex Marlin was the first mechanical watch the company had made in over 30 years when it was rolled out in 2017. It’s based on a 1960s model and Timex’s designers were obviously not shy about s...

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on the origins of the Reverso and why the golden ratio is central to its success Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier Apr 24, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on the origins of the Reverso and why the golden ratio is central to its success

At last year’s Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre dazzled attendees with their Stellar Odyssey collection accompanied by a mesmerising stall. This year, they calmed us back down with an exploration of their beauty and history, as exemplified by a spectacular hologram and water display at the centre of various craft demonstrations. Take a deep breath and … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on the origins of the Reverso and why the golden ratio is central to its success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 slims down to become a collector’s dream Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre reached out Apr 22, 2023

The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 slims down to become a collector’s dream

After the impeccable German brand A. Lange & Söhne was all but pulled apart by the wars of the 20th century, it took almost five decades to come back from the dead. Günter Blümlein, who had done great work with IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre, reached out to the surviving great-grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange and helped … ContinuedThe post The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 slims down to become a collector’s dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come… Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2023

Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come…

In Succession, Kendall Roy is a twitchy psychodrama of a man in a cashmere baseball cap.  His personality flip-flops and flop-flips from one scene to the next. One moment he’s grandiose and narcissistic, the next he’s pitifully insecure. But most of all, Kendall is just very, very sad as he yearns for his father’s approval … ContinuedThe post Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in SF Next Weekend… Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis Oris Apr 21, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in SF Next Weekend…

Now in its ninth year, and fourth in San Francisco, the Windup Watch Fair has become a fixture of the San Francisco watch community. Every April, enthusiasts, collectors, and newbies alike gather to shop and talk watches-and this year, there are even more events to participate in! Not only are there over 60 brands to check out at the Fair, we have for the first time in SF, a full slate of FREE panels and programming. We’ve put together a full rundown of special events below, but first, let’s remind everyone of the basics. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support of our presenting partners and, most importantly, our Lead Sponsors. This year’s Lead Sponsors include Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. All of these brands will have a significant presence within the Fair, with dynamic booth spaces and special events. We’re also beyond excited to be joined by over 60 presenting brands this year, which is double the size of last year’s events. The full roster of brands includes: And as a reminder, the event location and hours are as follows: Terra Gallery – 511 Harrison Street, San Francisco, CA 94105 Friday, April 28: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, April 29: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, April 30: 12PM – 5PM Throughout the days, attendees can expect food trucks, a full cash bar, dedicated lounge spaces, outdoor space, as well as sponsored giveaways from Bespoke Watch Project and Fils...

Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss Time+Tide
Rolex Milgauss Coming up Apr 19, 2023

Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss

Coming up to Watches and Wonders, many were excited to see a new Rolex Milgauss model or an updated version of the one running since 2007. Rumours even circulated about an all-titanium Milgauss. Watches and Wonders ended, brand new Rolex models came, and the Milgauss disappeared from the brand’s website without a trace. The Yacht-Master … ContinuedThe post Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound
Citizen Super Titanium Promaster Dive Apr 16, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 45: From Smaller Seiko 5s to Psychedelic Zodiacs

And we’re back for episode 45 of A Week in Watches. The dust from Watches & Wonders has settled, but there are still plenty of new releases to cover. This week we have tough-looking Timex Q with complications to spare. Seiko 5 has continued to trim down their sizes, and we’re excited about it. Zodiac has launched their weirdest Super Sea Wolf yet, and, finally, Autodromo puts a big engine in their tried-and-true Group B case with the Rallysport Chronographs. All in all, a pretty solid week. Before you go, please do give us a like and subscribe over on our YouTube channel. It really helps us out! This week’s episode is sponsored by Whatnot, a live-stream auction app where you can buy and sell unique items. Come join the Windup Watch Shop for their first stream on Wednesday, April 19th at 5PM Eastern, where they will be showing and selling various items from the shop, including Buy-it-Now Bundles featuring watches such as the Citizen Super Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic and the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn And Wound Edition bundled with accessories from ADPT and Worn & Wound. Follow this link to sign up for Whatnot and get $15 in credit toward your first purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 45: From Smaller Seiko 5s to Psychedelic Zodiacs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Getting Shifty with the 2024 Acura Integra Type S, The Slick and Affordable FALCAM Maglink Camera Strap, New LEGO Technic Model Worthy of Le Mans, & Playing with FYRE All Over Again Worn & Wound
Apr 15, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Getting Shifty with the 2024 Acura Integra Type S, The Slick and Affordable FALCAM Maglink Camera Strap, New LEGO Technic Model Worthy of Le Mans, & Playing with FYRE All Over Again

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Acura The 2024 Acura Integra Type S Lives Up To The Shifty Hatchback’s Name Via Car and Driver When Acura came bursting onto the automotive scene in 1986, it did so by simultaneously debuting the Integra, a shifty compact hatchback highlighted by its athletic styling and signature pop-up headlight design. Most of us in the office and car enthusiasts alike however, can specifically identify with a particular Integra, one that ushered in a new era of performance in ’97 with the third-generation of their sports hatchback and a cult-classic; the Integra Type-R. The Type-R would go on to create its own legend, dominating the podiums time and time again at the SCCA World Challenge Touring Car Championship. Via Car and Driver When Acura reintroduced the Acura Integra this year, it fell hard and flat amongst the enthusiast crowd. A common problem nowadays with all automotive brands reviving older models, the new base model Integra looked like your average sedan on the road and was absent of any wow-factor when it came to its performance and aesthetic. That’s not the...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions Time+Tide
Hublot drops two new special Apr 14, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions

Earlier in the week it was revealed an incredibly significant pocket watch is about to hit the auction block, and, closing out the week, Hublot, even after a ton of novelty drops at Watches & Wonders, announced two new special editions. A fair bit to discuss, let’s jump right into it. Phillips to auction historically … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Opens the Doors of its New Manufacture and We Got to Step Inside Worn & Wound
Tudor Opens Apr 13, 2023

Tudor Opens the Doors of its New Manufacture and We Got to Step Inside

Tudor’s recent road is a case study on how to properly revive, or reintroduce a brand to the world. Just in the last 10ish years, we’ve watched them go from a vintage fascination but a contemporary obscurity to one of the leading modern Swiss watch brands. A brand that went from unavailable in the US, to globally reinvigorating and dominating the $3-5k price point. And now, in 2023, they’ve marked another milestone, the opening of their new assembling and testing facility in Le Locle. A massive structure, it houses in a split building with entrances on either side, Tudor and the movement manufacturer they created, Kenissi. Standing on 330, 30-meter tall concrete pillars to reach sturdy bedrock below, the building is 150-meters long, 30-meters high, and consists of 8,050 cubic meters of concrete and 960 tons of metal framing. State of the art in many ways, the project took five years from start to finish, including three for construction, with some transitions and new operations finishing in April of 2023. Airey, with large, automatically tinting glass windows and an intentionally industrial interior veneer, the structure spoke to mid-century architecture, if completed and outfitted with the newest technologies one can expect in a watch-making facility. In many ways, the building suits the products that Tudor currently makes, watches with vintage aesthetic cues, but firmly up-to-date construction. Watches that despite certainly qualifying as luxury timepieces, avoid t...

The Roundup: Fliegers, Divers and a Clock to Set Your Watches To Worn & Wound
Apr 13, 2023

The Roundup: Fliegers, Divers and a Clock to Set Your Watches To

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The post The Roundup: Fliegers, Divers and a Clock to Set Your Watches To appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Zach & Kylie react to the Cartier 2023 Watches & Wonders novelties Time+Tide
Cartier 2023 Watches & Wonders Apr 12, 2023

Zach & Kylie react to the Cartier 2023 Watches & Wonders novelties

Different brands have different approaches to Watches & Wonders releases. Some come to the fair with a single hero novelty along with a few collection refinements. Others bring an onslaught of new horological toys to play with. Cartier is without a doubt in the latter camp, coming to Watches & Wonders 2023 with over 80 … ContinuedThe post Zach & Kylie react to the Cartier 2023 Watches & Wonders novelties appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds Worn & Wound
Oris Adds Some Bling Apr 11, 2023

Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds

At this point, I think we all have a fairly solid understanding of the appeal of a gold watch. The heft, the rarity, and the luster of gold all appeal to our reptile brains in ways that are almost innate. Zach Weiss broke it down here back in 2021, and in the nearly two years since that article was conceived, we’ve only grown more gold-curious as a team. But as much as we talk about a growing appreciation for gold, there’s another tangentially related segment of watchmaking that doesn’t get nearly the same level of attention, at least from enthusiasts. But a new watch from Oris made me rethink my relationship to these watches.  No, I’m not talking about watches with Muppet-clad date displays. I’m talking about diamonds, an entirely different level of opulence. In a modern context, watches that have been set with diamonds most frequently fall into one of two categories: watches marketed exclusively toward women, or the completely iced out custom jobs that you sometimes see on red carpets, music videos, and in New York City’s diamond district. With the new Aquis Date Diamonds, Oris is asking us to rethink the stone by incorporating them into a watch that’s truly sporty, and also by making them accessible.  Oris goes about this by using lab-grown, as opposed to mined, diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds have increased in popularity in recent years as manufacturing techniques have gotten better and better, delivering stones that are identical optically and chemically ...

The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens Apr 11, 2023

The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados

Czapek has expanded their best-selling integrated Antarctique line with the stunning open-worked Révélation The new in-house SXH7 auto-winding movement is an evolution of their SXH5, completely reworked for maximum visual impact on both sides The Révélation is also the first non-chrono Antarctique with a skeletonised dial Open-worked dials can be one of the most thrilling … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Closer Look at the Ressence Type 8S and Type 1 Round (w/ Video) Worn & Wound
Ressence Type 8S Apr 10, 2023

A Closer Look at the Ressence Type 8S and Type 1 Round (w/ Video)

It’s hard for a brand to stand out in the halls of Watches and Wonders. After all, the place is literally filled with some of the newest and finest horological creations. Yet Ressence manages to, even if they maintain a relatively low profile overall. Their booth isn’t elaborate, nor is there loud music or flashy lights to draw you in. Instead, their evenly lit room invites you in with a seat at a bar that doesn’t serve drinks, but rather a unique vision of watchmaking. And, naturally, it’s the watches themselves that make the booth stand out. While certainly in the realm of the high-end, their watches aren’t ornate or fussy. They aren’t traditional. There are no tourbillons or minute repeaters to ooh and awe at, nor gold or platinum to catch your eye with a glint. Instead, they are a reprieve from such things. Their watches look like precision technology from a future utopian world. And, well, that’s half true. Meeting with Ressence is a combination of seeing novelties and talking about manufacturing. A color change and how that affects tolerances. Years of R&D; to make already incredibly fine gaps between the moving components even finer. The word “micron” gets used with some frequency. They are a brand about precision technology, cleverly executed for a seemingly effortless result. This year, the focus was on two novelties: the Type 8S, and the Type 1 Round. The former was a new version of last year’s big announcement presented in a soothing sage gree...

Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Apr 9, 2023

Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999

When you have the most sought-after watch in the world, it takes humongous cojones to kill it off. While some would say it is insanity, Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern, who elected to discontinue the coveted 5711 Nautilus in steel, would probably argue it is discipline. A calculated effort that respects the trust and loyalty … ContinuedThe post Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.