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Results for Fumé Dial

4,694 articles · 592 videos found · page 143 of 177

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Infinity Tantalum SJX Watches
Breguet hands Dec 6, 2021

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Infinity Tantalum

A self-taught guillocheur who conceived an engine-turned motif of his own, Joshua Shapiro was an educator before switching careers to focus on his eponymous brand, J.N. Shapiro. His latest creation is the Infinity Tantalum, a limited edition wristwatch in his typical, classical style but in unusual metals – the guilloche dial is palladium while the chapter ring and case are tantalum (while a portion of the proceeds going to a medical charity). And more unusually, J.N. Shapiro is making both the tantalum components in house. Initial thoughts While Mr Shapiro’s design looks conventionally traditional, it incorporates a handful of details unique to his brand. One is the open-tipped Breguet hands, and the other is the font for the Arabic numerals, which was custom designed for J.N. Shapiro. Here the novel combination of metals give Mr Shapiro’s watch an entirely different look, especially in the version with a grey-coated dial. It’s an attractive look that’s less Breguet-inspired than his earlier watches. And the use of tantalum for the case would also give the watch a pleasing heft, which will give it an appealing tactile feel. The ruthenium-plated dial with rose gold accents At US$33,000, the Infinity Tantalum is pricier than Mr Shapiro’s past models, though it is in line with the convention of tantalum cases being significantly pricier due to the challenges of fabrication. The metal wears out tooling several times more quickly than gold, requiring frequent repl...

Review: the new Luminox Commando Raider Deployant
Luminox Dec 4, 2021

Review: the new Luminox Commando Raider

The Luminox Commando Raider is an unusually bright Luminox, which has mostly opted for black or darker colored dial variants. It provides a more vibrant variant for those who appreciate a little more fanfare but maybe less appreciated by those who want more tactical accessorizing. That said, the bright green is not a blocker for those who prefer a tactical color, since there is also a black strap variant.

INTRODUCING: The Baltic Bicompax Pulso made for Revolution and The Rake Time+Tide
Baltic Bicompax Pulso made Dec 3, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Baltic Bicompax Pulso made for Revolution and The Rake

As far as microbrands are concerned, Baltic is slowly reaching iconic status. There was a strong showing at this year’s Pink Dial Project auction for breast cancer awareness, research and cure. That was followed by Only Watch, where a proverbial who’s who of brands presented amazing offerings. Their Pulsomètre Chronographe Monopusher nearly tripled the high … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baltic Bicompax Pulso made for Revolution and The Rake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Dec 2, 2021

The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca)

Wear and tear often bolsters the appeal of a vintage watch. Picture a chronograph dial aged to a warm tropical hue, or a diver’s watch shadowed with caramel patina. Rather than signs of decay, such well-worn details are celebrated as adding character and authenticity. Like the laughter lines on an old man’s face, they’re testimony … ContinuedThe post The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Dec 2, 2021

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Review

What we love: Split Second Complication with 100m WR- Yes please!Open caseback displaying manual winding movement Beautifully laid out dial  What we don’t love: Thickness, some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Could do without cutout numbers on the dial (2,4,8 and 10)Due to the design of the top sapphire crystal glass, cannot see the tachymeter scale properly when looking directly at the dial  Overall rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 It’s not often you get a watch for a review and fall in love with it straight away! Well, for me this was the case with the new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph. Released a day earlier than the Watches of Wonders in 2021, Duograph is a part of the Premier heritage line. Originally released in 1943, Duograph is a spilt second complication that pays tribute to three generations of inventors – Léon, Gaston & Willy Breitling. Breitling used the term ‘Duograph’ in 1940 which refer to the complication “Chronograph Rattrappante”. Design: Breitling Duograph is offered in stainless steel or an 18K Red Gold case. The case size is 42mm with a thickness of 15.3mm and lug to lug measurement of 50mm. The variant we are reviewing today is the stainless steel model with the sunray blue dial.  Duograph had a fixed bezel and the Cambered sapphire (glareproofed both sides) acts as a bezel on its own. This Sapphire crystal top glass has a thickness of 3mm which adds to the o...

Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar SJX Watches
Omega Debuts Dec 1, 2021

Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar

Launched in 2016, Globemaster Annual Calendar has remained under-appreciated, despite the distinctive design that combines several elements from historical Omega watches – most notably the “pie pan” dial of the Constellation – and perhaps more importantly, a practical complication. Originally available in the same muted colours as the base-model Globemaster, the Annual Calendar has been refreshed with dials in striking colours and in different metals, including a striking burgundy and of course an olive green. The burgundy dial in a two-tone case Initial thoughts The Globemaster Annual Calendar is an interesting proposition. The complication is unusual – it’s the only annual calendar offered by Omega – while the design is vintage-inspired but quirky. But the Annual Calendar has been overlooked perhaps because of the brand’s wide-ranging catalogue that is packed with more famous models like the Speedmasters, and also because of its old-school case design and restrained colours. So the new trio is certainly a good addition to the line, especially since each of the new colours are striking and relatively unusual. The olive-green version immediately stands out, not only because it’s the year’s most fashionable colour, but also the fact that the shade is perfect – it’s restrained but rich. And it’s in steel, which makes it the most affordable of the variants. Most interesting in terms of aesthetics is the two-tone version. The pairing of a burgundy dia...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 25, 2021

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828”

Just debuted at Dubai Watch Week, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is different from the usual Moser watches. A limited edition with a bronze case, the Since 1828 is styled like an aviator’s watch, with a design that draws heavily on early 20th century wristwatches. The dial is naturally smoked, as most Moser dials are, but in a subtle manner. And in a nod to its own history, the dial bears the H. Moser & Cie. logo in Cyrillic, which before the Russian Revolution was found on most of the brand’s timepieces. Initial thoughts Moser is today best known for its fume dials and Streamliner sports watch, with the Heritage line being a lesser known part of its line up. Still, the Heritage watches offer the usual Moser quality – of both innovation and finishing – in a different package. Admittedly, a bronze pilot’s watch isn’t exactly novel, but it’s atypical for Moser. And it is executed well, with a retro design that features smart details like the wire-like lugs, flat crown, and applied numerals. But perhaps the best feature is the Cyrillic logo on the dial, which is a minor detail but manages to give the watch a different look. And it is historically appropriate, given that the Russian Empire was once the key destination for Moser’s watches. And with a price of about US$18,000, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is a fair deal for a watch with a solid, attractive in-house movement along with a dial and case featuring good details. Atypically Moser The H...

Ressence Unveils the Type 1 Slim DX2 SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils Nov 25, 2021

Ressence Unveils the Type 1 Slim DX2

Launched as Dubai Watch Week opens its door, the Type 1 Slim DX2 is a limited edition created for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the biggest watch retailer in the Middle East. Like its 2019 counterpart, the Type 1 Slim DX2 is inspired by the region. The polygonal geometric pattern on the sand-coloured dial is inspired by the decorative motifs found in the architecture of the Arab world, which have their roots in Islamic ornamentation. Initial thoughts The DX2 is a design variant, but it manages to look quite different from standard Type 1 Slim. It’s perfect for anyone who admires the brand’s technical ingenuity while seeking something more elaborate in terms of design. While the typical Ressence watch is all about unadorned, plain surfaces, the DX2 is decorative – and appealing for that. The dial brings textures, colour, and reflective surfaces that are not usually found on Ressence watches, which are either appealingly minimalist or mundane depending on your perspective. So the DX2 is more engaging, while retaining all of the mechanical ingenuity that sets Ressence apart from the competition. Because it’s mechanically identical to the standard model, the DX2 is also powered by an ETA 2892, a movement robust yet thin enough to fit the case. But the movement does come with the downside of a short, 36-hour power reserve. Still, the movement contains much impressive technical innovation, though that is all contained within the time-display module. Patterns and textures The co...

HANDS ON: The COSC-certified green goodness of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10592 Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Nov 23, 2021

HANDS ON: The COSC-certified green goodness of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10592

This year’s green-dial train keeps on rolling with the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10592, the brand’s refined take on an “everyday watch”. Able to compliment any outfit from sweatpants-casual to wedding-day formalwear, the Clifton threads the needle between character and discretion in a way few other brands are capable of, managing to be beautiful … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The COSC-certified green goodness of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10592 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” SJX Watches
Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival Nov 15, 2021

Introducing the Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”

I’m pleased to announce the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”, a collaborative edition loosely inspired by the disco-era El Primero G383, but reimagined with lots of lume – the dial is disco at night and also in the day. Update: Sold out, thank you for the interest. A brief background Zenith is a brand that appeals to me on an intellectual level because it’s historically significant for its chronometers and chronographs, but also on a personal level, simply because the brand makes watches that are both appealing and affordable. So it was a no-brainer for me to work with Zenith – since it meant I could create my fantasy El Primero. One of my favourite vintage Zenith models is the G383, a truly funky watch with a design that is unmistakably of the late 1960s and 1970s – the dial is over the top and truly disco. The El Primero G383 of 1969 But a one-for-one vintage remake has never interested me (plus I’m not a fan of the tiny lugs of the G383). So in early 2020, I got in touch with Romain Marietta, Zenith’s head of product development, and together we spent several months refining the concept, creating the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”. (Full disclosure: The several months spent tweaking the idea produced more than one outstanding design, so a variant is a possibility.) At the same time, the Poker Chip will also be more accessible than our past editions. It’s as affordable as Zenith watches typically are – in fact it costs just 10% more t...

Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Nov 15, 2021

Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium

Resurrected two years ago with modern materials and tech, the Air Command was originally a 1950s wristwatch reputedly created for the US Air Force that was never serially produced, resulting in just a dozen examples made. With the success of the vintage-looking 2019 remake, Blancpain has followed up with the regular-production Air Command Flyback Chronograph in a modern palette, with a blue dial and a case in either titanium or red gold. Initial thoughts The Air Command reissue of 2019 was a hit. The 500-piece run sold out quickly and and now sells for slightly above the original retail price – a feat for a modern-day Blancpain. Unsurprisingly, Blancpain has stuck to the same successful formula with the new Air Command, which retains the same case and design, but manages to look quite different (and will no doubt feel different thanks to the case metal). The dial is finished with a “sunburst” brushing that gives it a metallic glint With its livelier colours, the latest version is arguably more striking than the original remake. At the same time, it avoids the pitfall of trying too hard to look vintage, as was arguably the case with the original limited edition. And the gold version makes sense as well. The Air Command is clearly a luxury-sports watch rather than a military-issue instrument, so 18k gold feels right at home with the design. For those who find titanium too dull or too affordable, the gold version is certainly the one to go for. Notably, Blancpain has...

Audemars Piguet, FPJ, H. Moser & Cie, and Zenith achieve record breaking results at Only Watch 2021 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet FPJ H Moser & Nov 9, 2021

Audemars Piguet, FPJ, H. Moser & Cie, and Zenith achieve record breaking results at Only Watch 2021

Luxury watches can command exorbitant price tags at charity auctions and when piece uniques are on the table, the bidding wars inevitably heat up. We saw this recently during the Pink Dial Project auction, which Time+Tide was proud to be a partner of, and the trend continued at Only Watch, one of the largest recurring … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet, FPJ, H. Moser & Cie, and Zenith achieve record breaking results at Only Watch 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 which secured Nov 4, 2021

Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction

You may have heard a lot about Loupe This these past few weeks. The online auction platform, founded by Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg, recently hosted the charitable Pink Dial Project Auction, which raised $526,803 USD for the fight against breast cancer. They also auctioned off a generously donated Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014, which secured … ContinuedThe post Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem Nov 4, 2021

Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year?

What’s been the most visually bonkers watch of the year? Possible contenders would have to include the Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem and the MB&F; M.A.D.1 Pink Dial Project. But fresh competition now comes in the form of the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021. To be fair, the dial of the original Zenith … ContinuedThe post Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar in White Gold SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Unveils Nov 2, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar in White Gold

While Vacheron Constantin already has a few triple calendar watches in its catalogue, including the old-school Historiques and contemporary FiftySix. But perhaps the perfect blend of classical and modern is Traditionnelle triple calendar introduced three years ago. The latest version of the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar is in white gold, paired with a grey dial – a clean, restrained combination. Initial thoughts While the latest version is merely a change of colours, it’s still a smart look. Already appealing in terms of design, the Traditionnelle gets better with the right case metal and dial. And here the grey-on-silver formula is perfect. The Traditionnelle Complete Calendar is unusual for the dial layout. Instead of having twin-windows side at side under 12 o’clock, the day and month indicators are pushed to the edge of the dial. This opens up the dial aesthetic, while also improving legibility. Like the other models in the Traditionnelle family, the Complete Calendar is masculine and serious, especially in this colour, but not mundane. That’s thanks in part to interesting details, like the double-baton marker at 12 o’clock and a case with a coin-edge fluting on the back. Importantly, the movement is decorated well – as good as it gets as far as big brands go – it even packs a few inward angles on its anglage (even if they aren’t extremely sharply angled). At US$41,000, the price tag is hefty, but it is considerably more affordable than any of Va...

EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call” Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 would set Nov 2, 2021

EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call”

Editor’s note: If you can get one at retail the green dial Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 would set you back $34,893 USD. But that’s one extremely big “if”. Consequently, people are willing to pay crazy prizes for what is still a watch that only came out this year. Recently, for example, a Nautilus 5711/014  sold on … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco Nov 1, 2021

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco

A homage to famed Monaco “Dark Lord”, the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is unique for utilising carbon, or more specifically carbon composites, in almost every aspect of the watch – dial, case, and even the hairspring is carbon. Plus it has a specially finished movement that’s visible through the an extra-wide sapphire case back. Initial thoughts The vintage “Dark Lord” is all-black version of the Monaco that’s one of the most desirable of vintage Heuers. It was something of an experimental creation with only a few dozen were made, or perhaps even a hundred depending on the source. One of the first all-black watches, the “Dark Lord” had a powder-coated case like many early black-coated watches. Consequently, the “Dark Lord” case was fragile and few have survived in pristine condition, explaining its rarity and value, as well as why it’s the inspiration for the Carbon Monaco. A vintage “Dark Lord” ref. 740.303N The pleasing black, orange, and cream palette of the Carbon Monaco instantly evoke the “Dark Lord”. And at a distance, the Carbon Monaco even has something of a vintage flavour. But up close it is evidently a modern watch in both style and substance. Unlike the “Dark Lord”, the Carbon Monaco is fabricated from a material that’s naturally black, or at least a dark grey. The carbon composite case has an indelible finish, while also being extremely lightweight. The modern material, along with the geometrically open-worked ...

In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Oct 31, 2021

In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...