Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Military-Issued Lemania, A Ladies Rolex, And A '60s Audemars Piguet Dress Watch
A fresh crop of vintage watches from around the web for the new year.
Results for The Heuer Carrera (1963)
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Bethenny Frankel
The entrepreneur and reality TV star dishes on building a collection for the long haul, why she loves the Rolex Daytona, and why every watch should have a story.
Time+Tide
3 Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019
2019 was an exciting year for Tudor, as the iconic Swiss watchmaker released several models that collectively surprised and even inspired the greater horological community. And while some of the novelties unveiled last year were contentious at the time, I think people’s attitudes have softened towards them and, more importantly, it’s just great to see … ContinuedThe post 3 Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania
Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania It’s the start of a new decade, and as we hit the Roaring ’20s, there’s no sign that anyone is spending any less time on Instagram - especially if they love watches. With that in mind, I thought I’d do my best to put all of the … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph
Luxury sports watches are a fad that numerous watchmakers are trying their hands at – with varying degrees of success. H. Moser & Cie. is the latest brand to try its hand at a sports watch. While the fact is not a surprise, since the company has been dropping hints about it for over a year, the product is unexpectedly well executed and different. Limited to 100 pieces but with future variants in the works, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is a “bull’s head” chronograph with the buttons at two and ten o’clock and a “racing” style dial. The Streamliner is characterised by an unusual cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet, creating a design that brings to mind watches of the 1970s and 1980s, but still manages to be novel in the crowded luxury sports watch segment. Importantly, Moser also got the functional aspects of the watch right: the case is water-resistant to 120m, and the chronograph pushers can be operated underwater to the same depth. The Streamliner on the wrist of Moser CEO Edouard Meylan Fond memories Designed by Marcus Eilinger, a freelance designer whose recent work includes watches for IWC, Montblanc and Huawei, the Streamliner brings to mind interesting, maybe even great, watches of the past that are now forgotten, so it looks fresh. Edouard Meylan (left) with designer Marcus Eilinger. Photo – H. Moser & Cie. While Streamliner’s case is reminiscent of chunky 1970s chronographs made by the likes of Omega, Heuer, and Longines, the integ...
Revolution
Rado Livestreamed Press Conference for 2020: 5 Takeaways
The Rado digital press conference this morning shows one thing: younger consumers and their interests are shaping brand campaigns in 2020.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Aquis Lake Baikal Limited Edition
Continuing their commitment to raising awareness about various issues threatening the world’s great bodies of water, Oris has released a new, “high performance” dive watch inspired by, and in commemoration of, efforts to preserve this treasured natural wonder.
Deployant
New fun watch: Swatch Big Bold Jellyfish
Swatch updates its latest product line the Big Bold with a striking watch - the recreation of the popular see through case first seen on the Jellyfish.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946
Longines’ determination to churn out affordable vintage remakes is going strong, despite having just unveiled the Heritage Classic Sector Dial and then the Heritage Military 1938 late last year. Previewed last year but only just officially launched, the Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 sticks to the same formula – reproduce a desirable Longines wristwatch and price it modestly – but is unusual in being the first vintage-inspired chronograph since the Avigation BigEye of 2018. More unusually, it’s a good-looking remake of an odd-looking vintage watch, purportedly from 1946, in the Longines Museum that combines elements not usually found together. Whatever the case maybe with the historical inspiration, the design of the remake has been sleekly refined. Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 Like other remakes, the 1946 won’t win any prizes for imagination, but it’s a good-looking remake that gets the details right. The basis for the remake is a watch from 1946 in the company’s museum, which was most probably powered by the famed cal. 13ZN flyback chronograph movement (which was succeeded by the equally famous cal. 30CH in 1947). Introduced in 1936, the cal. 13ZN represented the cutting edge of chronograph technology at the time, being the first serially produced chronograph movement to incorporate a flyback function. Catered for sportsmen and aviators, the flyback function allowed the wearer to reset the chronograph without having to stop it first. As a rather...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
New Steel Omega Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” Just Announced (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)
Omega has delivered on what the Speedmaster community has been demanding for a while now. The big difference between the previous Omega 1863 Caliber and the new Omega 321 Caliber is that the 321 has a column wheel actuator for the chronograph. This is in contrast to the 1863 Caliber's cam-actuated chronograph function.
Revolution
Jamaican Speedster Yohan Blake
Ross Povey travels to the 2019 World Athletics Championship in Doha to meet the Jamaican sprinting star Yohan Blake.
Time+Tide
Weekend watch spotting with JR
Weekends in Melbourne can mean several things: overpriced brunches with mates after a boozy night out on the town, hikes up the Dandenong Ranges’ unendingly popular “1000 steps”, day trips to the Peninsula Hot Springs and, if you’re a watch enthusiast, donning that special timepiece in your collection that wouldn’t dare see the light of … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
De Bethune DW5 Armilia: Science Fantasy Turned Horological Reality
The De Bethune DW5 is supposed to be, as its name suggests, a fantasy object, a dream of sci-fi splendor. Out of all the Dream Watch editions, though, the DW5 is by far the most fantasy inspired and has a good claim on being simply perfect.
Time+Tide
Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019
One of the most polarising materials to make a return to prominence in watchmaking over the last couple of years has been bronze. Why does this ancient material cause so much conjecture when it’s used as a timepiece’s case material? Well, for a start, it can’t come into direct contact with your skin for prolonged … ContinuedThe post Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000
How to define microbrand watches is a conversation topic that has worn out many watch journalists’ tongues. With proposed criteria ranging from price to retail model and everything in between, there isn’t much consistency in how this new phenomenon is received or perceived. Perhaps one thing that can unite the explosion of newcomers that the … ContinuedThe post A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Pedrozo & Piriz PP01
Press Release information on the new brand - Pedrozo & Piriz and their ambitious debut watch - the PP01, with double flying tourbillons.
Revolution
Cyril Kongo - From Street to Silk and Beyond
In November of 2019, we were privileged to sit down with Parisian painter and graffiti artist, Cyril Kongo while he was in Singapore for a month long residency at The Mill.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle
Chiming movements – as in a minute repeater or grande sonnerie – have been fairly consistent in construction, being both rare and difficult to master, let alone be improved upon. But over the past two decades, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed an impressive number of engineering improvements for its repeating movements, from “trebuchet” hammers that are hinged like the medieval catapult for enhanced striking power, to “crystal” gongs that are welded to the sapphire crystal to boost volume. This year, the brand has added to its list of striking innovations with revamped, ultra-long gongs in the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle, which was designed to raise both the quality and quantity of the chimes. The Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle with a grained, silver dial An elaborate case Available with the dial in either a blue flinqué enamel or a simpler, silvered and grained finish, the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (MGTRMP) combines a minute repeater with one of the most user-friendly perpetual calendar mechanisms on the market, plus automatic winding. The self-winding capability is important and practical, because the movement has a short 38-hour power reserve. The two dial variants. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre All of that is naturally voluminous, and packed into a large white gold case measuring 43mm wide and 13.72mm high. Though by no means a small watch, it is surprisingly thin for such a grand...
SJX Watches
Interview: Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith
In mid 2017, Julien Tornare, became chief executive at Zenith, maker of the famed El Primero chronograph. This came after a 17-year stint at Vacheron Constantin, where his last job was running the brand’s operations in Asia, its most important market by a large margin. At Zenith, Mr Tornare was called upon to revitalise a brand that had been drifting for some time. Zenith was clinging on too tightly to the past – namely the landmark El Primero – to the exclusion of everything else the brand had achieved. The diversification beyond the El Primero is exemplified by the Defy, a product crucial to the brand’s resurgence. The collection swiftly became a bestseller since its debut two years ago, but also boasts a milestone for the industry at large with the radical silicon oscillator in the Defy Inventor. The Defy Inventor During the El Primero 50th anniversary event that took place late last year in Singapore, I sat down with Mr Tornare to discuss his vision for Zenith, and how his start-up approach to running the brand has helped propel it into the new decade. The interview was edited for length and clarity. It has been two years since you took over at Zenith. Do you think you’re past the toughest part of the job? The toughest was probably at the beginning; getting the team on board with my vision was the most challenging. You can only develop a brand when you have everybody with you, and when you come from an entirely different brand, that takes some time. The firs...
Quill & Pad
Worldtimer vs. GMT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT vs. IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Spitfire
Do you need to know the time in various time zones? What is the real difference between a worldtimer and a GMT watch? How complicated are these watches to use? Chris Malburg answers these questions and more after spending some quality time with two enchanting multi-time zone watches.
Time+Tide
Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season
Today is a first in our home state of Victoria. It is the first day ever that a state of disaster has been declared by our Premier, Daniel Andrews, ahead of an “unprecedented” fire threat over the coming days. I mentioned this in my Editor’s Letter. Since then, it’s gotten worse. In our state alone … ContinuedThe post Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What is an Exit Watch, and do I need a plan for one?
The idea of a grail watch – the would-be jewel in the crown of our collection for which we all strive – is well established. Not only does it make for some really interesting discussions over coffee, but it also helps shape your collection’s direction and deepens your understanding of the watch industry and what … ContinuedThe post What is an Exit Watch, and do I need a plan for one? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Musings on watch novelties presentations for 2020
We muse over the state of affairs with Baselworld and SIHH, and how this year's novelties presentations will play out for 2020.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Anniversary
At Baselworld last year, Seiko unveiled its take on the ultimate time-only watch, the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Spring Drive 20th Anniversary SBGZ001. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 is powered by essentially the same movement as found in the Credor Eichi II, but dressed up with an engraved platinum case and dial, while also priced at quite a bit more than the Eichi II, with a retail of US$76,000. Also launched at the same time was the Grand Seiko SBGZ003, which is almost the same watch – having the same movement but minus the engraving on the case and dial, resulting in a US$57,000 price tag. With their cushion-shaped cases and dauphine hands – the hallmarks of the newish Elegance Collection – both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are slightly more retro in style than the stark and contemporary Eichi II. But more importantly, they are powered by the 9R02, which is an upgraded version of the movement in the Eichi II and the most gorgeous movement ever found in a modern Grand Seiko. In short, both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are watches with incredibly well finished movements – amongst the best in modern watchmaking anywhere – but with a couple of caveats, discussed below. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 – watch courtesy of Mark Cho, founder of menswear store The Armoury The 9R02 Spring Drive movement Masterpieces from the studio All of Seiko’s top of the line watches – both Grand Seiko and Credor – come from the Micro Artist Studio, a workshop set up in 2000 to produce the fi...
Time+Tide
Nick’s 5 favourite watches of 2019
The more you look at different watches, the more critical you become, as you better understand what the watchmaker and designer were trying to achieve, and how successful they were at executing it in the final watch. This year, I got a lot of opportunities to handle hundreds of different watches, both new and vintage, … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 5 favourite watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
4 Watches Perfect For A Horological Detox From Nomos, Hermès, Chopard, and Zenith
A horological detox means going back to simplicity. Just the basics: time-only, preferably in a stainless steel case and fitted with a strap, not overly thick or large, and dial functional in design. These are not attention-grabbing watches, but the perfect choice to start the new year with.
Time+Tide
Mystery Vs. Transparency in luxury watchmaking – how much do you really want to know?
It is becoming increasingly common to see small, emerging microbrands threaten to “pull back the curtain” on the luxury watch industry, in an attempt to upend the established order and claim a slice of the suddenly democratised pie for themselves. But how effective, or even responsible a strategy is it? Is it time to stop … ContinuedThe post Mystery Vs. Transparency in luxury watchmaking – how much do you really want to know? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Year in review: Top 10 posts of 2019
As 2019 draws to a close, we are thankful for your support and readership this year. We also take a moment to reflect on the Top 10 posts for the year.
Quill & Pad
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115: Going Full Monty
The mechanical diva on the stage of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 movement is the big kahuna itself: the extremely large mainspring visible at 12 o’clock, which provides more than 10 days of power reserve. And quite a bit more according to Anders Modig.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #156: 2020 Watch Collecting Goals
This week, the guys wrap up another year of TBWS shenanigans and chat through their 2020 watch collecting goals. Plus, they share some ideas about community building and organizing TBWS events in 2020.