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Results for The Nautilus Launch Story

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Hands-On: F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Sep 16, 2019

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue “Only Watch”

With the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel taking first place, the second-most expensive watch at Only Watch 2019, will inevitably be the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue. The last time a one of a kind F.P. Journe went on the block at Only Watch, it sold for US$1.15m. On most metrics the Astronomic Blue is a record-setting watch for F.P. Journe. It is the most complex wristwatch ever conceived by Francois-Paul Journe, boasting 18 functions. The Astronomic Blue is also the biggest F.P. Journe watch ever, and might become the most expensive ever after the Only Watch auction in November. Remembering 1987 The Astronomic Blue actually traces its lineage back to a timepiece Mr Journe made in 1987, the “astronomic planetary watch”, a double-faced pocket watch. That, in turn, was inspired by the George Daniels Space Traveller, hence the similar, symmetrical dial layout. The astronomic planetary watch of 1987. Photo – F.P. Journe Going even further back, Daniels modelled the Space Traveller on a handful of Breguet pocket watches from the 19th century, namely pocket watches no. 2807, 3862 and 3863. These featured similar, symmetrical twin sub-dials that indicated both mean solar time and apparent solar time. The Astronomic Blue, in short, is the 21st century take on Breguet’s masterpieces. The George Daniels Space Traveller Large and complicated The Astronomic Blue is a complicated-looking watch, but easy to grasp thanks to the helpfully labelled diagrams provi...

RECOMMENDED READING: John Mayer’s insane watch collection Time+Tide
Sep 16, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: John Mayer’s insane watch collection

We’re pretty sure that most of you are already aware of just how absurdly ridiculous Mr John Mayer’s watch collection is, thanks to myriad Instagram posts, news stories and two rather famous Talking Watches episodes. But the sheer scope and significance of the musician’s horological haul still tends to beggar belief, especially if you’ve ever … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: John Mayer’s insane watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs in Singapore SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs Sep 16, 2019

Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs in Singapore

Les Collectionneurs is a small, but special, line of watches offered by Vacheron Constantin. Made up of select vintage watches that have been restored to pristine condition at the factory, Les Collectionneurs is made up of about 75 watches. A selection is available year-round at three Vacheron Constantin boutiques – the two in Geneva and one in New York City – with the balance travelling and making stops at other boutiques around the world. From now till the end of October, a pick of Les Collectionneurs watches, including the exquisite ref. 4261 minute repeater, are in Singapore, over a year since the line-up last came by. As a whole, the 19-piece selection in Singapore presents a rich and interesting overview of Vacheron Constantin’s midcentury history. The brand’s mastery of case and lug styles is well illustrated, from the dramatic, wing-shaped “Batman” Chronometre Royal to the familiar “teardrop” lugs of the ref. 4178 chronograph. Factory refreshed While the models in Les Collectionneurs are diverse, and also acquired from a variety of sources, ranging from private collectors to auctions, they are all selected based on shared criteria: rarity, provenance, and of course, current trends. More importantly, the watches are fully and correctly restored, and delivered with an archive extract as well as a two-year warranty. For the client, that’s essentially the same assurance as when buying a brand new watch. Importantly, the factory approa...

Sneak Peek: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Sep 16, 2019

Sneak Peek: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”

On a recent trip to Geneva I dropped by the Akrivia workshops in the city’s Old Town and spotted the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”, still in its constituent parts and almost ready for assembly. The dial, however, was finished and gorgeous. It’s a serene grey-blue, made of translucent enamel over a hand-hammered dial plate. Produced with lots of careful effort and a tiny hammer, the hammered finish is usually only applied to Akrivia’s gold dials found on the AK series watches, and is being combined with enamel for the first, and probably only, time. It was a tedious process to get right, which is why the Akrivia is one of the last to be completed amongst the Only Watch line-up. Produced by the same Geneva enamel artisan that does the fired enamel, or grand feu, dials of the standard watch, this dial for the Only Watch example is the second one made, hence “version 2” on its packaging. Rexhep felt the first dial made was not up to scratch – it had too much variation in colour – and had a second one produced. And the first dial was finished only after a handful of trial runs, where it was established that the thinning effect of the hammered surface meant it could not be counter-enamelled on the back as the standard dials are. Aside from the hammered surface, the dial is also unique because the markings are painted in fired enamel, rather than printed. This makes the numbers, lines and text more substantial. And because the ena...

Throwback Sundays: Six Stealth Wealth watches that could fool a seasoned watch collector Deployant
Rolex Sep 15, 2019

Throwback Sundays: Six Stealth Wealth watches that could fool a seasoned watch collector

Most seasoned watch collectors will easily recognize the usual culprits, the Pateks, Rolexes, APs, Richemont/Swatch/LVMH brands from a distance. In order to make this list of watches that qualify as stealth wealth, we have chosen timepieces that are 'unexpectedly' expensive, yet not instantly recognizable. They look simple on the dial side, yet have hidden complications and/or 'insane' finishing.

It’s 6 months on, how are we feeling about Tudor’s 2019 releases now? Time+Tide
Tudor s 2019 releases now? Sep 14, 2019

It’s 6 months on, how are we feeling about Tudor’s 2019 releases now?

Editor’s note: The dust has well and truly settled on this year’s watch releases, and they’re starting to filter out into the world and onto wrists. This is as true with Tudor as it is with anyone else. Though we haven’t seen any P01 watches out in the wild yet, we thought the timing was … ContinuedThe post It’s 6 months on, how are we feeling about Tudor’s 2019 releases now? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Rediscovering how to wear a watch Time+Tide
Sep 14, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Rediscovering how to wear a watch

People who care about watches enough to be able to drop reference numbers and movement names can sometimes forget that for some - even many - the act of wearing a watch at all is a foreign one. The shift away from wrist-based time-telling to using our phones has been a big concern for the … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Rediscovering how to wear a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Limited Edition SJX Watches
Breitling  Proving Sep 14, 2019

Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Limited Edition

Tudor’s latest watch is major – beyond the watch itself – for it is the first publicly available limited edition in its 70-year history. In an industry where limited editions usually emphasise “edition” rather than “limited”, the Black Bay Chrono Dark is limited to just 1181 pieces at time of writing (though the number will creep up each year; more on that below). The new watch is a nod to Tudor’s partnership with the New Zealand national rugby union team, better known as the All Blacks – perhaps the most successful rugby team in history. Named for the all-black team jersey bearing a silver fern emblem, the All Blacks provide a literal inspiration for the Black Bay Chrono Dark, which has a black-coated case and bracelet. It’s essentially a cooler, limited and monochromatic version of a watch that is already an excellent value proposition. The watch is based on the Black Bay Chrono launched two years ago. Though it was slightly controversial aesthetically – the design being a mishmash of dive and driving watches – the Black Bay Chrono was well-regarded for being good value; it was powered by a sophisticated chronograph movement based on the Calibre 01 made by Breitling. Proving to be something that grew on you over time, the line-up was joined by the two-tone Black Bay Chrono S&G; unveiled at Baselworld 2019. Now the collection grows to include the Black Bay Chrono Dark, exactly 1181 examples of it to be specific. This is the numbe...

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Reveals 2019 Finalists SJX Watches
Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Pink Gold Sep 13, 2019

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Reveals 2019 Finalists

The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is at its starting block: 84 watches have been shortlisted across 14 categories, all vying for one of the year’s awards. This year’s categories include the usual like Men’s Complication, Chronometry, Mechanical Exception, and Challenge (for adorable watches under 4,000 Swiss francs), but also grows to encompass two new categories, Divers and Iconic. But the top prize of the evening remains the Aiguille d’Or, or “golden hand”, which is the best of show. Given the number of independent brands that found success at the 2018 contest – of the 16 prizes, nine were awarded to independents, with Bovet scooping the Aiguille d’Or – the watches in contention this year include a broad spectrum of independent watchmaking, from establishment names like MB&F; to newcomers like Alchemists. The 30-member jury, composed of the industry notables like auctioneer Aurel Bacs, watchmaker Philippe Dufour, Jack Forster of Hodinkee, and also our founder Jiaxian Su, will meet to evaluate the watches and cast their vote by secret ballot in the week before the prize ceremony in November. At end September, the watches will soon go on a world tour, prior to the awards ceremony on November 7 at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva. (The tour calendar is at the end of the article.) Here’s the finalists, by category: Ladies (From left to right, top to bottom) 1. Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Pink Gold and Diamonds 2. Chanel J12 Calibre 12....

RECOMMENDED LISTENING: H. Moser’s Edouard Meylan on running a watch brand like a startup  Time+Tide
H. Moser s Edouard Meylan Sep 13, 2019

RECOMMENDED LISTENING: H. Moser’s Edouard Meylan on running a watch brand like a startup 

Two figures who I respect tremendously in their respective fields are H. Moser & Cie. CEO Edouard Meylan and Blamo! host (and man who can rock a soft yellow hat like nobody else) Jeremy Kirkland. So when the two got together on the latest edition of the podcast, I knew it was going to pop.  … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED LISTENING: H. Moser’s Edouard Meylan on running a watch brand like a startup  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“I decided on this one after I saw Pierce Brosnan wear it” – Dimitrios’ Omega Seamaster Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Sep 11, 2019

“I decided on this one after I saw Pierce Brosnan wear it” – Dimitrios’ Omega Seamaster

The move to put an Omega on James Bond’s wrist in GoldenEye stands as one of the greatest watch marketing moves in the history of watch marketing. Dimitrios was not the first, and certainly won’t be the last person to buy into the brand because of the fictional super spy.  But even if it was … ContinuedThe post “I decided on this one after I saw Pierce Brosnan wear it” – Dimitrios’ Omega Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bremont Martin-Baker Timepieces: And You Only Have To Be Ejected From A Jet Fighter To Get One! Quill & Pad
Bremont Martin-Baker Timepieces Sep 10, 2019

Bremont Martin-Baker Timepieces: And You Only Have To Be Ejected From A Jet Fighter To Get One!

What does it feel like to eject from a jet fighter? Imagine yourself motoring down the autobahn in a convertible doing 600 miles per hour. Now stand up. Chris Malburg talks with owners of Bremont’s most exclusive timepiece – the MB1 – and their jet fighter ejection experiences qualifying them to wear this one-of-a-kind watch.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395: Reinterpretation Done Right Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette Sep 8, 2019

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395: Reinterpretation Done Right

Breguet is one brand that does "remakes" beautifully, and the recent release of the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is clear evidence. The watch is incredible while feeling entirely classic and well within the boundaries of what is considered typical for Breguet. And yet it also feels like a departure into something a bit new that makes you take another look at the brand.

RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches Time+Tide
Sep 7, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches

These days we’re pretty down with the tie-in between the watch industry and motorsports. Because while the association, which had its golden days in the age of Heuer et al, was originally born from necessity, nowadays its main function has to do with the marketing department.  And while many brands have history in the area, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 No-Nonsense GMT Watches From Blancpain, Montblanc, And Porsche Design That Will Keep You Traveling In Style Quill & Pad
Porsche Design Sep 6, 2019

3 No-Nonsense GMT Watches From Blancpain, Montblanc, And Porsche Design That Will Keep You Traveling In Style

For watch aficionados, GMT may as well mean “grand, magnificent, and timeless” for it offers the convenience of indicating two time zones on one dial. While today we can see all 36 time zones from every mobile phone, that doesn’t diminish the joy of a dual time zone timepiece. Here Sabine Zwettler highlights three no-nonsense GMT watches that each represent the sophistication of second time zone indications in their very own way. Enjoy their classic travel-time designs pared down to the essential!

RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd Time+Tide
Urwerk Sep 6, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd

Johnny Dowell has been on the watch world’s radar for some time (heck, we interviewed him here), having worked with Urwerk and others on some pretty spectacular production pieces, as well as numerous custom jobs. But, perhaps unsurprisingly, Johnny’s career in engraving didn’t start with watches - he went through the far more traditional route … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

From stylish to rugged – 5 Montblanc watches that cover every base Time+Tide
Montblanc watches Sep 6, 2019

From stylish to rugged – 5 Montblanc watches that cover every base

Editor’s note: The watches of Montblanc have been getting better and better over the last few years. Newer, cleaner designs and a streamlined product, along with smart value propositions mean that it’s a brand that should be on your radar. Don’t believe us? Here are five 2019 releases you should get across.  Since Davide Cerrato … ContinuedThe post From stylish to rugged – 5 Montblanc watches that cover every base appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Commissioning a Custom Andreas Strehler Wristwatch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5230G Bottom row Sep 6, 2019

In-Depth: Commissioning a Custom Andreas Strehler Wristwatch

I am a collector of world time and time zone watches, and own several from mainstream brands. I had long had my own ideas of an ideal travel watch, and this is the tale of how one came to be. A world time watch should simultaneously show at least 24 time zones on the dial. There are principally three dial types that can do this: first is a map of the Earth with time zones marked out; second is a disc with 24 reference time zones indicated by city names; third is a 24 hour ring in conjunction with a ring of reference time zones, widely known as the Cottier world time, after Swiss watchmaker Louis Cottier who built the first wristwatch with the mechanism. Top row, from left: Lottermann & Söhne Weltzeituhr 1, Tissot Heritage Navigator, Patek Philippe ref. 5230G Bottom row: Dubey & Schaldenbrand Weltzeit, Junkers 6892-5 Serie Worldtimer, Jean-Mairet & Gillman Sport. Images – respective brands The first two variants use the entire dial to display world time, leaving no room for additional complications. The Cottier-system can as well dominate the design, with only the centre of the dial available for decorations or additional indications, making it difficult to embellish the dial with motifs relating to a specific brand. Reducing the displays can create a more interesting dial layout, but this results in microscopic indicators that are hardly readable. For this reason, I now prefer time zone watches with only one additional zone time shown on a 24-hour scale, often labelled ...