Two Broke Watch Snobs
Kiwame Tokyo’s New Automatic Dress Watch Takes Minimalism Seriously
The new Kiwame Tokyo Yane pairs a rectangular case with Japanese architectural references, a minimalist lacquer dial, and a Miyota automatic movement.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
The new Kiwame Tokyo Yane pairs a rectangular case with Japanese architectural references, a minimalist lacquer dial, and a Miyota automatic movement.
Monochrome
To say that the PRX collection by Tissot is wide would be a genuine understatement… The range is vast, comprising classic automatic versions, quartz models, several sizes (40mm, 38mm, 35mm and even 25mm recently), standard steel editions, but also unexpected materials (titanium, damascuss steel, carbon) and all the colours you can imagine. And here, I’m […]
Monochrome
Tutima, based in Glashütte, earned its wings in the 1940s with its military and pilot’s watches and, in 1941, produced Germany’s first two-pusher flyback chronograph (later referred to as the Flieger). In 2019, Tutima released a contemporary, less tool-oriented, time-and-date take on the Flieger. The latest model to join the squadron is the Flieger T5, […]
SJX Watches
Having explored several concepts related to energy systems in watchmaking, from mainspring barrel capacity to automatic winding and the chain and fusee, our technical series continues with a detailed examination of how that energy reaches the escapement. A vital part of all watch movements, gears are usually taken for granted and generally not given much thought. But upon closer look, gear tooth profiles vary in shape and size. These seemingly minor variations have big implications and reveal various calculated trade-offs. We take a closer look at the different gear profiles used in watchmaking and review their particularities and evolutions over time. History and curves Mechanical timekeeping is inextricably linked to the concept of gears and transmissions. Long before the invention of the hairspring, early craftsmen and horologists were already using toothed wheels in conjunction with weights, verge escapements, and pendulums to measure the passage of time. Historically, gear-cutters were separate professionals who catered to clock makers. Horological lore has it that the tooth profiles used during the 1600s were traced after the thumb’s shape, although it’s difficult find evidence for this theory. The invention of the hairspring marked a step-change in the technical evolution of the watch, and the later development of detached escapements enhanced precision further. These advances revealed transmission problems that had previously been masked by larger timing er...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex expands the Automatic E Line to 38mm with integrated-bracelet styling, a Miyota movement, and a $379 price.
Hodinkee
What We Know Swiss brand Albishorn, carving out a niche with "imaginary vintage" designs, just released a simplified version of its regatta chronograph with the Marinagraph Classic. I first covered this complication in my hands-on review two years ago with the Albishorn Maxigraph, the brand's debut model and a collaboration with Massena LAB. Since then, the regatta chronograph has lived on under Albishorn's "Water" collection as the Marinagraph, combining the complication with a tide bezel. Today's Marinagraph Classic isn't all that different from the Marinagraph Classic Racing. Visually, the biggest difference is the swap from that colorful aluminum insert tide bezel to a large bidirectional sapphire bezel with more traditional, lumed markings. And yes, there are new dials too. While the sunray-brushed black dial remains, the new dial comes in the form of a white fumé color, with what could have been misconstrued as a shadow in the brand photography actually a subtle dark fade around the edges of the white dial. The black dial sports contrasting silver hands and markers, while the ones on the white fumé dial offer a stark black contrast. On both dials, the ten-minute retrograde regatta countdown scale at 7 o'clock is colored in blue and red, while the chronograph and regatta seconds hands are matched on each dial in either red for the black dial or blue for the white. My favorite feature since the first Maxigraph has been the aperture at 3 o'clock, serving as a running ...
Hodinkee
What We Know This one is orange. That's the news here, really. It's a bit shocking to think that since TAG Heuer's reintroduction of the mighty Formula 1 with an updated Solargraph movement, back in early 2025, in part to mark its return as the official timekeeper of the top-level motor sport race series, they have yet to release a model with an orange color scheme. Well, they have now, and I'm here for it. (And if you haven't read the great Jeff Stein's in-depth story on the surprising origins of the Formula 1, I implore you to stop what you are doing and click here). It's with relief that we welcome the latest iteration of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph. It comes as a limited edition in two versions: one on a rubber strap, the other on a metal bracelet. The orange, grey, and red colorway is ostensibly a tribute to the upcoming Dutch Grand Prix at Zandvoort, a seaside track on the Dutch coast near Amsterdam. The race weekend, beginning August 21, will be the last Dutch Grand Prix—at least in its current iteration. Best known internationally via the Dutch national football team's kit, orange is a beloved color in the Netherlands, tied to the Dutch Royal Family and the House of Orange-Nassau. A TAG watch resplendent in orange (or oranje in Dutch) seems a fitting tribute to the final F1 race in the home country of Max Verstappen, the lead driver for Red Bull Racing - also sponsored by TAG Heuer. The watch features an orange uni-directional timing bezel, orange cha...
WatchRider
Seiko has returned to the world of Initial D with a new chronograph dedicated to Keisuke Takahashi and his yellow Mazda RX-7 FD3S. The model continues the manga’s 30th-anniversary celebrations after the earlier Takumi Fujiwara AE86 watch. Orders opened in Japan in early August 2026, while deliveries are scheduled to begin in late January 2027. Production is limited to 1,995 individually numbered watches, matching the year Initial D began serialization. The connection is immediately clear. This is not a standard Seiko with a small logo added to the dial. The complete colour scheme and several smaller details come from Keisuke’s car, while the official campaign artwork places the watch beside the driver and his RX-7. The Initial D collaboration links the Seiko chronograph directly to Keisuke Takahashi and his yellow RX-7 FD3S. Image: PREMICO. The yellow RX-7 on the wrist The bright yellow dial copies the most recognizable feature of Keisuke’s RX-7. A black tachymeter bezel provides strong contrast and gives the chronograph a clear motorsport look. Three black subdials use red markings inspired by the illuminated instruments inside the car. The RedSuns team name appears at three o’clock beside the Seiko logo, while the Initial D symbol is placed inside the lower subdial. The yellow dial, red instrument-style subdials and RedSuns logo refer to Keisuke’s RX-7. Image: PREMICO. One of the best details sits at 12 o’clock. Instead of a normal hour marker, Seiko uses a t...
Time+Tide
Bringing its expertise in hard stone dials to its early chronograph model, the vintage styling stays strong across the collection.
WatchRider
TAG Heuer is sending the Dutch Grand Prix off with a pair of bright orange Formula 1 Solargraph limited editions. The rubber-strap reference WBY111H.FT8128 and steel-bracelet reference WBY111L.BA0042 share the same compact case, solar movement and colour scheme, but they offer two very different ways to remember Zandvoort. The timing is important. The 2026 Dutch Grand Prix will be the last Formula 1 race at Circuit Zandvoort under the current agreement. TAG Heuer has therefore created a farewell watch that looks straight into the orange grandstands rather than simply placing a race logo on an existing model. The last Dutch Grand Prix at Zandvoort The Dutch Grand Prix returned in 2021 after being absent from the calendar since 1985. The narrow circuit between the dunes quickly became one of the most recognisable weekends on the calendar, helped by steeply banked corners and grandstands filled with Dutch fans wearing orange. The final race weekend runs from 21 to 23 August 2026. It will also include the first Formula 1 Sprint held at Zandvoort. Tickets for the weekend are already sold out, which says plenty about the event even as it prepares to leave the calendar. TAG Heuer returned as Formula 1’s official timekeeper in 2025. A special watch for the last Zandvoort race therefore makes sense, especially when the Formula 1 collection already has a long history of bold colours and racing references. The new orange Solargraph follows a colourful Formula 1 design story that be...
Hodinkee
Parmigiani Fleurier is a brand that has long embodied the idea of quiet luxury — or "private luxury," as Parmigiani CEO Guido Terrini asserts — frankly, sometimes to a fault. Many of its models pair spectacular watchmaking with a radically simplified design language, and the unique execution of a mechanical chronograph in the brand's Tonda Chronograph Mystérieux earlier this spring quite literally hides its mechanical extravagance as part of the complication. We'll have more on the Chronograph Mystérieux soon, but there's another watch launched this year that also feels unmistakably Parmigiani in execution—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary in white gold. To celebrate the brand's 30th anniversary this year, Parmigiani Fleurier launched a trio of limited-edition Toric models at Watches and Wonders, featuring hand-hammered gold dials. The Toric Petite Seconde in platinum, a Toric Quantième Perpétuel in rose gold, and a Toric Chronographe Rattrapante in platinum all got the new dial treatment. Then, a few months after the show, Parmigiani dropped this whopper of a watch. Let's get the not-so-fun part out of the way first—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary is limited to 5 pieces, and priced at CHF 490,000. To most collectors, it might be an unobtainium watch in so many aspects, but that doesn't stop this thing from being an absolute joy to see in person. At a glance, the overall silhouette of the Carillon Tourbillon fits into the classic Parmigiani play...
Fratello
Last year, Singer Reimagined surprised us with the Heritage Chronograph Collection with a restored and rebuilt Valjoux 236 movement. This model debuted in both green and black dial colorways, and a very limited run of 10 pieces with a “Terracotta” dial was then shown at Dubai Watch Week. Now, Singer Reimagined unveils its next Heritage […] Visit Hot Take: The Singer Reimagined Heritage V72 Now With A Midas Touch to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Walking down the pit lane towards the Red Bull garage, I get chatting to a guy, thanks to the watch on his wrist (it was a Monaco), who tells me about his love for F1 and how special it is to stand close enough to these machines that you can feel their engines through your chest. At one point, I asked him, "Which race haven't you been to yet that you're dying to attend?" "I'd love to get to Spa one day, but honestly? This is it. Silverstone is the home of it all. It's hard to beat this place." Over the past five years, F1 has undergone a revitalization I don't think any other sport can match. Fuelled by Netflix's Drive to Survive, a crop of drivers who've opened up more of themselves than any generation before them, and no shortage of on-track drama, the fan base for the sport hasn't just increased; it's evolved in ways that have changed who actually shows up at races. It's that diversified, culture-conscious crowd that TAG Heuer's return as Official Timekeeper is clearly aimed at. TAG Heuer has timed Oracle Red Bull Racing since 2016, through all four of Verstappen's titles, but in 2025 the brand's role in F1 became much bigger. TAG Heuer became the sport's Official Timekeeper as part of a huge move by LVMH across the entire paddock, a ten-year partnership that also brought Louis Vuitton and Moët & Chandon into Formula 1. Silverstone earns its place at the centre of that story more than any other stop on the calendar. It's one of only four circuits still on the grid that...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The $149 Timex Retroware Digital brings '80s-style digital fun back with a bold curvy display, chronograph, alarm, and Indiglo. Here's where it fits.
WatchRider
Seiko has turned one of Honda’s strangest ideas into a watch. The new Seiko 5 Sports Honda Motocompo Limited Edition HDB010 takes the colours and small details of the folding 1980s scooter then places them inside a compact automatic field watch. This is more than a yellow dial with two famous logos. The crown copies a label from the scooter’s fuel control, the strap borrows its loading instructions and the box looks like the carton used to ship the Motocompo. Even the caseback has been turned into a bright red display for the 4R36 movement. A 45-year-old scooter becomes a watch Honda introduced the Motocompo in 1981 alongside the first Honda City. It was a 49cc two-stroke motorcycle created to fit inside the City’s luggage area. The handlebars and footrests folded into its rectangular body, while special systems helped prevent fuel, oil or battery fluid from leaking inside the car. Honda described the idea as a new six-wheel lifestyle, combining a small car with a motorcycle that could be carried in its trunk. The scooter weighed 42kg dry, produced 2.5 horsepower and measured only 1.185 metres long. Its small wheels and box-like panels made it instantly recognisable. Production lasted from 1981 until 1983, yet the Motocompo continued to gain fans long after it disappeared from showrooms. The HDB010 arrives for its 45th anniversary and uses the yellow version of the scooter as its main source of inspiration. A compact Field Series case in Motocompo colours The HDB010 ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko 5 Sports and Honda mark the Motocompo with the HDB010, a compact 36.4mm limited edition in scooter yellow, powered by the 4R36 automatic.
Fratello
Panerai combines a high-tech carbon-composite case with familiar vintage-inspired details in the new Luminor Marina PAM01707. The watch uses the brand’s proprietary Carbotech material for its 44mm cushion case. Paired with an automatic movement and 300m water resistance, it remains every bit the capable tool watch expected from the Luminor Marina family. What makes this […] Visit An Ideal Blend Of Old And New: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 In Carbotech to read the full article.
WatchRider
Timex has given the Deepwater Meridian 200 a new job. The 42mm diver-style watch is now an automatic GMT, with a fourth hand and a bidirectional 24-hour ceramic bezel instead of a conventional elapsed-time scale. The colour references are black TW2Y63900, blue TW2Y64000 and green TW2Y64100. Black is the most restrained choice, blue has a cooler nautical character, and green brings the most personality without turning the watch into a novelty. Each version pairs its dial with a coordinating bezel, so the colour feels deliberate rather than decorative. Announced on 31 July 2026, this is genuinely new rather than a model that has quietly lived on retailers’ shelves for months. The personality is familiar, but the specification changes are enough to make this more than a new colourway. Black TW2Y63900. Image: Timex. Blue TW2Y64000. Image: Timex. Green TW2Y64100. Image: Timex. A diver for someone who avoids deep water I am afraid of deep water but rather fond of diver-style watches, which is a little like loving hiking while avoiding cliffs. I like their neat engineering, their tough appearance, and the fact that I can admire a 200-metre rating without personally testing it anywhere below the shallow end. Timex specifies 200 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, screw-on case back and a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The black dial has luminous hands and markers, a magnified date, and a red GMT hand. The steel case is 42mm across, 14.5mm thick and 48...
Time+Tide
The latest Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph drops down from XL sizing to Cartier's large size for more refined proportions.
SJX Watches
One of the cult brands when it comes to affordable, 1970s dive watches, Doxa’s latest is a vintage remake with a twist: the Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee is modelled on a dive watch developed for the Swiss army’s elite divers in 1969, but scaled down to a wearable 39 mm, compared to the chunky 42.5 mm (or even 45 mm) of most Doxa dive watches. Doxa has long mined its short but rich history of watches for underwater professionals, most famous amongst them the fictional adventurer created by novelist Clive Cussler. The Sub Army turns to a mil spec watch made for the commando divers of a landlocked country, preserving the design but refining it in size and style. It’s a 250-piece limited edition that sticks to Doxa’s sweet spot in terms of pricing with a retail of US$2,000. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked Doxa’s retro dive watches, especially the signature, oversized Sub 300 with an orange dial. Most of them have an appealing, recognisable look that’s backed up by the brand’s history. That said, Doxa makes a lot of dive watch models, enough of them that I have a hard time keeping up. Fortunately, the Sub Army for Hodinkee stands out in both style and size. At 39 mm and under 11 mm high, this has an easily wearable case that’s amongst the smallest in the Doxa catalogue, but still in the cushion-shaped format that’s a must-have for a retro dive watch of this type. The dial design is unique to the “Army” model and evokes vintage military equipment withou...
Fratello
When I hear the name Hamilton, dive watches aren’t the first things that come to mind. The Swiss brand with American roots is mostly known for its great lineup of military field watches. On top of that, the classic Ventura and the Intra-Matic Chronograph are among its more famous offerings. That said, the Khaki Navy […] Visit Do New Dials And Colors For Hamilton’s Khaki Navy Scuba Lineup Do The Trick? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Earlier this year, Minerva stepped out from the shadow of Montblanc to reclaim its independent, stand-alone branding and celebrated the occasion by releasing two limited editions of the Unveiled Secret. Presented in compact 39mm cases with wine-red accents and a new, inverted in-house monopusher chronograph calibre exposed in all its magnificence on the dial, rest […]
Monochrome
The Citizen Tsuyosa is one of the strongest contenders in the affordable automatic sports watch segment. Launched in 2022, the collection has steadily expanded with new sizes, colours and specifications, most recently gaining a more adventurous personality with the 100m water-resistant Tsuyosa Shore, equipped with a rotating bezel. Now, Citizen combines the sporty design of […]
WatchAdvice
The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is bold, unapologetically big, and has major wrist presence. And we love it! What We Love The look of the microblasted titanium case with the purple dial and strap The lightweight construction makes it easy to wear The 1/100th second chronograph is a fun complication to play with What We Don’t It is a larger watch that will not fit all wrists The style is not for everyone or everyday wear due to the size, design, and colour The power reserve could be stretched a little more to 60 hours if I’m being picky Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The Zenith DEFY Extreme is a cool watch, no matter how you look at it. This is the third DEFY Extreme I’ve been able to wear, and every time I put one on my wrist, it just feels right. Yes, it’s not exactly a technical analysis to start a watch review with, but there’s something about these watches that makes me smile. Last year, when I reviewed the DEFY Extreme Diver Shadow, I found it to be a surprisingly easy-wearing watch thanks to the titanium construction and the way Zenith has crafted the case design and bracelet. It wore exceptionally well on the wrist, although slightly smaller at 42.5mm. The Zenith DEFY Extreme models I went hands-on with last year However, I did then spend some time with the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli with the high-polish two-tone case, which would be the Ultraviolet’s more flamboyant cousin. Agai...
Monochrome
For several years, Union Glashütte has celebrated its partnership with the Sachsen Classic historic rally through annual limited editions based on the retro-styled Noramis Chronograph. For the 23rd edition of the Sachsen Classic, taking place on 14 and 15 August 2026, the German manufacture shifts the spotlight to the Averin Chronograph, whose angular, assertive square […]
WatchRider
We all love the timeless elegance of a luxury watch, but not everyone has thousands of dollars to drop on a Rolex. Fortunately, you don’t have to drain your savings to get that premium, high-end “Rolex energy” on your wrist. Citizen has just expanded its legendary Tsuyosa line with two stunning mechanical models: the NK0022-50A and the NK0030-51X. Featuring exquisite guilloché textured dials, upgraded automatic movements, and sleek integrated bracelets, these models offer major luxury watch vibes for just a fraction of the price. A Tale of Two Sizes Citizen recognized that watch enthusiasts have different wrist sizes and style preferences, so they released these two models with distinct personalities. The Bold and Classic: Citizen NK0022-50A If you love the unmistakable presence of a gold Rolex Datejust, the NK0022-50A is designed to catch your eye. To clarify, the comparison is with the Datejust, not the Day-Date, because the Tsuyosa has a date display but no day of the week display. Pairs a modern, 40mm gold-tone ion-plated stainless steel case and integrated bracelet with a textured, silver-white guilloché dial. It’s loud, it’s proud, and it looks like a million bucks on the wrist (even if it costs less than a decent weekend getaway). The Refined and Compact: Citizen NK0030-51X Sized at a sweet-spot 37mm, this stainless steel beauty features a mesmerizing teal guilloché dial. For those who prefer a more understated look or have smaller wrists, the...
Worn & Wound
The Gebhard Duve-designed Audemars Piguet Disco Volante 5093 took the horological world by storm in the mid-1950s, and there’s no denying that it remains an exemplar of well-executed watch design today. With the combination of the ongoing Space Race and Mid-century futuristic design movement came an influx of wildly shaped and uniquely proportioned wristwatches throughout the middle portion of the 20th century. One of the most popular designs was the UFO, with brands like Omega, Timex, Zenith, Gruen, and Ruhla employing this case architecture in their 1950s, 60s, and even 70s catalogs. While I’ve had the chance to own a Timex UFO model and handle an Omega Dynamic, it’s the Ruhla you see pictured above that really caught my eye. Why? Let’s dig in. Brief History of Ruhla and The UFO Model Ruhla’s watch production, initially named “Gebrüder Thiel GmbH,” began in 1892 with its “Fearless” pocket watch, becoming the first mass-produced timepiece put to market. Fast forward decades later to 1952, and the company is renamed “Uhren und Maschinenfabrik Ruhla,” or Ruhla for short, and continues production of watches and movements for both the domestic East German and international markets. Ruhla quickly found great success throughout this era, with their plant becoming one of, if not the, world’s largest watchmaking factory. By 1963, the Ruhla logo seen on my UFO example was applied to all the company’s domestic models and was used until the brand’s closu...
WatchRider
Breitling has unveiled the Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Aston Martin DB5, a three-watch limited-edition collection inspired by the British grand tourer introduced in 1963. This is the historical side of the new Breitling–Aston Martin partnership, and it is a far more literal meeting of the two brands than the Formula 1-themed Navitimer that opened the collaboration. Time and speed, reunited The connection is not manufactured from a marketing spreadsheet. Breitling launched the youthful, speed-focused Top Time during the 1960s, and Sean Connery wore a modified Top Time reference 2002 in Thunderball in 1965 while driving the Aston Martin DB5. Now Breitling has translated the car’s silver bodywork, dark instrumentation, timber trim and hand-finished leather into three versions of its modern cushion-cased chronograph. All three measure 41mm in diameter and 13.3mm thick, use domed sapphire crystals, offer 100 metres of water resistance and arrive on brown calfskin straps with folding clasps. A wooden inner bezel is the defining DB5 detail: it recalls the car’s steering wheel and dashboard without putting a miniature vehicle on the dial. The silver-dial steel edition echoes the DB5’s bodywork and handcrafted interior. Image: Breitling. Steel: the closest match to the classic DB5 Reference AB0178121G1X1 is the most direct interpretation. Its stainless-steel case surrounds a silver-toned dial, brown wooden tachymeter scale and a hand-coloured gradient leather str...
Fratello
Breitling has announced a series of limited-edition Top Time B01 Chronograph models celebrating the Aston Martin DB5. These three motoring-inspired chronographs feature a cushion-shaped case with subtle Art Deco grooves in each corner. Combined with pump pushers, the design delivers a distinct 1960s character, making the connection to Aston Martin’s legendary British grand tourer feel […] Visit Breitling Launches A Top Time Trio Paying Tribute To The Aston Martin DB5 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...
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