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Formex Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Formex Jun 30, 2023

Formex Watches Guide

Formex Watches have been on the market since 2000 but the story of the Swiss independent brand’s success really begins with its revitalization in 2016, which marked a more streamlined approach to the product line and a new focus on direct-to-consumer online retailing. We spoke to Formex CEO Raphael Granito about the company’s origins, its new direction, and what distinguishes each of the models in its current portfolio.  Formex Watch SA traces its conception to 1999 and its actual foundation to 2000. Based in Biel/Bienne in the Swiss canton of Bern, It was the passion project of Hans-Peter and Ferdinand Grädel, brothers with deep roots in the watchmaking industry and a shared enthusiasm for motorsports, and a group of their friends from the industrial engineering field. The company name “Formex” is a portmanteau of the French phrase “Forme Extrème” (or “extreme shape,”) a philosophy that is most evident in the earliest watch models produced by the brand (example above), which leaned into the high-tech automotive aesthetic of high-performance cars and motorbikes as well as the era’s propensity for large, bulky case sizes. The 46mm cases of the original Formex models, in fact, were designed specifically to put the founders’ signature technical achievement - the innovative, inner-case suspension system for the movement, a shock absorption device inspired by the suspensions in car engines - on full display. The patented system (below), which remains ...

Up Close with Bell & Ross × Alessandro Palazzi × Revolution & The Rake Chronograph “Vesper” Revolution
Bell & Ross × Alessandro Palazzi × Jun 30, 2023

Up Close with Bell & Ross × Alessandro Palazzi × Revolution & The Rake Chronograph “Vesper”

Introducing the incredible collaboration between Revolution and The Rake, presenting the exclusive limited edition Bell & Ross and Alessandro Palazzi timepiece. This remarkable creation celebrates the legendary barman Alessandro Palazzi from the esteemed Duke’s bar, who joined forces with Bell & Ross co-founder Carlos Rosillo to design the ultimate watch for martini enthusiasts.  Encased within a […]

Working With Photographer Amy Shore on the Launch of the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Farer x Worn & Wound Jun 29, 2023

Working With Photographer Amy Shore on the Launch of the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition

When it came time to shoot the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition, we decided, quickly, to turn to Farer’s own ambassador, Amy Heynes (née Shore) for lifestyle photography. An incredibly talented and stylized photographer, her specialty is in the automotive industry. In fact, she co-owns Willam Heynes Cars with her husband (William Heynes, also the model in the shoot), which specializes in Jaguar preservation and restoration. When it came time to shoot the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition, we decided, quickly, to turn to Farer’s own ambassador, Amy Heynes (née Shore) for lifestyle photography. An incredibly talented and stylized photographer, her specialty is in the automotive industry. In fact, she co-owns Willam Heynes Cars with her husband (William Heynes, also the model in the shoot), which specializes in Jaguar preservation and restoration. The post Working With Photographer Amy Shore on the Launch of the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Barbier-Mueller Returns with the Mosaïque II SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – Jun 29, 2023

Barbier-Mueller Returns with the Mosaïque II

In 2017, the original Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque made its first public appearance at Only Watch. The collaborative efforts of longtime friends Stéphane Barbier-Mueller and François-Paul Journe, one being the preeminent independent watchmaker and the other a member of one of a Swiss real estate dynasty, this was an unexpected and rather pleasant surprise. Now, the pair have returned with the Mosaïque II, follow up to their initial offering, sticking to the same principles as before, but with the eye of watch designer Eric Giroud.  Initial thoughts Those who are fans of the original will be pleased to see all of the main traits have been carried over to this latest version. The stone work on the dial, case and hinged caseback is all there, and the two hander runs on the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – in fact, it is essentially an elaborately inlaid Chronomètre Souverain. If anything, they have elevated their previous efforts by incorporating more types of semi-precious stones in order to execute Mr. Giroud’s design. While Mr Giroud’s eye has given the Mosaïque II a different feel from its predecessor, the new watch still reflects Mr Barbier-Mueller’s interest in arts and culture, which was the basis for the original Mosaïque. Besides being a shareholder in F.P. Journe, Mr Barbier-Mueller is also a member of the family that established the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva that’s famous for its world-class collection of tribal art. The original M...

Oris Unveils the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy in Steel (Yes, it’s 38mm, and No, it’s Not Limited) Worn & Wound
Oris Unveils Jun 27, 2023

Oris Unveils the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy in Steel (Yes, it’s 38mm, and No, it’s Not Limited)

Just over two years ago, Oris came out with a series of watches with a bronze case and a confectionary dial. At the time, the interplay of the pastel-colored watches against such a warm-toned metal was an instant hit for many in the watch world. It was only a matter of time before the Swiss brand would be revisiting the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection and improving upon it. Today, Oris has launched the much-anticipated follow-up to their 2021 collection with a new set of pieces, this time set in steel. The three colorways of this collection are a charming trio of blue, green, and pink. Still maintaining the candy-like quality of the previous iteration, the steel will definitely have a wider fanbase that, perhaps, couldn’t be sold on the bronze just yet. Keeping the integrity of the Divers Sixty-Five retro design, the new Cotton Candy collection’s steel case enhances the mod design that’s at once retro and modern. The steel case comes in at a friendly 38mm, the first time the Divers Sixty-Five has been available in this metal at this size in a non-limited edition, which is sure to please many. The easy to wear size makes it great for both men and women who might find the pop of color exciting. Wearers can choose between a steel bracelet or a perlon strap that matches the watch’s dial, giving one the opportunity to keep it subtle or a bit more flamboyant.  The details of this watch really showcase the amount of thoughtfulness that has gone into the design ...

Breitling Launches a Pair of Motorcycle Themed Collaborations in their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Launches Jun 23, 2023

Breitling Launches a Pair of Motorcycle Themed Collaborations in their Permanent Collection

Breitling’s long history has continuously been dotted with opportunities to push the brand forward and introduce a new crowd to the Swiss brand. One way to do this is through a continued focus on partnering with brands that complement the Breitling’s mythology, particularly those with a focus on adventure, speed, and adrenaline. Take, for example, the latest releases from Breitling’s Top Time line-up. Originally designed in the 1960’s by Willy Breitling, grandson of the family company’s founder Léon, as a response to the growing interest in motosports. The popular model, worn by design aficionados and 007’s alike, has only increased in popularity over its six-decade span. Now, both Triumph and Deus Ex Machina are putting their own spin on the Top Time platform once again, after a series of previous successful collaborations along similar lines. Released this week, both the Top Time B01 Triumph and Top Time B01 Deus nod to the freewheeling spirit of the decades before while situating their own mark on the brand for the modern wearer. Both the Triumph and the Deus follow a blueprint established in previous collaborations, including the ice blue dial on the Triumph and playful accents on the Deus, but the new watches feature Breitling’s B01 chronograph caliber, whereas the earlier references used an ETA derived Caliber 23. That upgraded caliber is housed within the same 41mm stainless steel case as its predecessors. Often called the “unconventional chronograp...

The Nezumi Aviera is a GMT that looks like nothing else Time+Tide
Jun 16, 2023

The Nezumi Aviera is a GMT that looks like nothing else

If you read Time+Tide, you know very well that GMTs are as popular as they have ever been. I would actually say, much more popular. I cannot think of any major Swiss or Japanese brand that hasn’t released a GMT in the past two years. And looking at the independent/microbrand world, it seems that each … ContinuedThe post The Nezumi Aviera is a GMT that looks like nothing else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tissot Introduces the Sideral SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Jun 15, 2023

Tissot Introduces the Sideral

Fun, affordable, and well-equipped, the Sideral is a surprisingly interesting entry-level sports watch from Tissot. Where many recent sports watches been Genta-inspired with integrated bracelets – Tissot’s own PRX among them – the Sideral reminds us that the 70s were a time of broader experimentation for the Swiss watch industry, in terms of both design and materials. Based on the playful and quirky Sideral S from 1971, the newSideral is not a one-to-one remake of the original. Instead, it’s been smartly updated in both design and functionality. While the original Sideral S featured a fiberglass case, then a world first, the reissue has a more contemporary carbon composite case. With its clever use of lume plus a regatta countdown bezel, the Sideral packs a surprising amount of character for the price. The original Sideral S from 1971 (lower left) next to the new Sideral. Initial thoughts Heritage remakes have become a common trope in the luxury watch industry over the past few years, but brands have mostly focused on bringing back their most timeless and iconic designs from the 1950s and 1960s; the Tudor Black Bay 54 is a perfect example. In this context, the launch of the funky Sideral is a breath of fresh air, since the original design is comparatively obscure and likely unknown to many contemporary enthusiasts.  The dial itself is generously and playfully lumed, with four different colours of Super-LumiNova across the collection to bring it to life in the dark...

Oris Goes Big with their New Aquis Worn & Wound
Oris Goes Big Jun 13, 2023

Oris Goes Big with their New Aquis

Oris is once again expanding their Aquis collection, this time debuting a reference with a small seconds indicator in a case with a larger footprint, the Aquis Small Second Date 45.5mm. The Aquis is one of the Swiss brand’s signature creations, and as such Oris has endeavored to make it available, and palatable, to a huge range of potential customers, with cases ranging from 36.5mm all the way up to 45.8mm for the Aquis Depth Gauge. Over the last few release cycles, we’ve seen Oris put a focus on the smaller and medium sized watches, but here we get a big one, with a case measuring 45.5mm, a brand new size for the diver, and featuring the increasingly rare small seconds indicator at 9:00.  When we think about dive watches, normally we consider them along the metric of water resistance and legibility, but there’s another core component of any diver that is less discussed and often taken for granted, and that’s being able to immediately determine if the watch is running. Needless to say, a dive watch that has stopped running doesn’t do you very much good at all, and could potentially be quite dangerous for a diver relying on their watch to time surface intervals or bottom time. If you picture a dive watch in your mind’s eye, you’re likely to think of one with a centrally mounted seconds hand, which makes it easy to see at a glance whether or not a watch is functioning at its most basic level. But for timing purposes, getting a readout to the second isn’t of ...

Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Jun 6, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition

Having already debuted an oversized take on the ref. 765 AVI “Co-Pilot” of 1953, Breitling now introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42, a scaled-down version that pays homage to the vintage original. Unlike its bigger brother, the 46 mm Super AVI GMT that features a second time zone function, the Classic AVI is a no-frills watch with just the time and chronograph. The Classic AVI makes its debut with a range of regular-production models, each inspired by a historical fighter plane, alongside the limited-edition AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk Initial thoughts The Super AVI GMT is a vintage-inspired chronograph with an appealing design, but with the drawback of the 46 mm case – huge by even by modern standards. The introduction of a more compact version is welcome, even if this addition further expands Breitling’s extensive (and sometimes confusing) catalogue.  With its smaller case, the Classic AVI has arguably better proportions than its bigger brother, with dimensions better suited to the vintage-inspired styling. And because it is equipped with a Valjoux movement (otherwise known as the Breitling Caliber 23), the Classic AVI is amongst the most affordable Breitling chronographs, adding to its appeal. The P-51 Mustang The P-51 Mustang is the standout among the Classic AVI line-up. It has classic pilot’s chronograph aesthetics with a black dial and faux-patina Arabic numerals that provide a nostalgic feel.  But e...

IWC’s Mark Series Turns 75, and the Brand Celebrates with a New Silver Dialed Variant of the Popular Pilot’s Watch Worn & Wound
Rolex fans were close Jun 5, 2023

IWC’s Mark Series Turns 75, and the Brand Celebrates with a New Silver Dialed Variant of the Popular Pilot’s Watch

Last year, IWC launched the Mark XX in a somewhat unusual way for a marquee watch from a big Swiss brand: without much fanfare at all. We’re accustomed in the watch world to getting teased about new releases weeks ahead of time, with splashy PR campaigns to accompany the biggest reveals. The Mark watches, for many watch enthusiasts, are the watch collection that comes to mind when thinking about IWC. So for the new Mark, arguably the most critical of the entire Pilot lineup (don’t @ me, Big Pilot fans) to just kind of appear on the website one day last year was a little surprising.  Now, almost a year later, the Mark XX is very much out there and certainly no longer an under the radar secret to stumble over. The subtle updates to the dial (including a date window which appears to be a bit more in harmony with the outer Arabic numerals clocking the hours) and a higher spec movement have gone over well with the collector community, and the Mark XX is the rare update to a core collection watch, from any brand, that seems to have a consensus around being an improvement. Think about how rare that is, for a minute. When the new 41mm Submariner was announced in 2020, Rolex fans were close to war. But with the new Mark, if you liked the last one, chances are you were going to like this one more. If it was never your thing to begin with, your opinion probably didn’t change. It was that most uncommon type of watch release: one with no real controversy.  Since the black and b...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now Time+Tide
Jun 5, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now

There’s certainly no shortage of creativity in the world of microbrands, but that energy doesn’t always get funnelled into watches that actually look good. Stella, the New York-based brand and brainchild of co-owners Stephen and Marcella (see where they got the name from), are one of the few who have managed to establish a beautiful … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar Time+Tide
Rolex May 30, 2023

Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar

Their name may not be as recognised as Rolex by the hoi polloi, but Singaporean microbrand Boldr Supply Co. has long been something of an insider’s secret among watch collectors. A winning combination of adventurous designs, fantastic build quality, and sought-after specs, all at “how do they do it?” prices, have made Boldr a favourite … ContinuedThe post Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier: Top 3 favorites from 2023 novelties Deployant
Cartier Top 3 favorites from May 27, 2023

Cartier: Top 3 favorites from 2023 novelties

Discover the exquisite world of Cartier luxury watches, including iconic collections like the Cartier Tank and Cartier Santos. Explore the artistry, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance of these Swiss timepieces, crafted by one of the most prestigious heritage brands in the industry. Delve into the historical significance and innovative designs that have made Cartier a symbol of luxury and sophistication.

Auction Watch: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I Sells For US$924,000 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 24, 2023

Auction Watch: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I Sells For US$924,000

One of the most anticipated watches by an independent watchmaker to go under the hammer this season has set a record: the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCCI) in pink gold sold at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction for HK$7.24 million including fees, equivalent to US$924,000. Notable for being in an ordinary, as opposed to charity, auction, the result of almost US$1.0 million puts its maker, the founder of Akrivia, in rarefied company alongside the likes of F.P. Journe, the only other independent watchmakers whose time-only watches can sell for such sums. The RRCCI that just sold was the first example of the model to emerge at auction, with only one other example having sold on the secondary market but privately. With the watch already sold out and a long waiting list for its successor, the RRCCII, there were high expectations for the watch at Phillips, which originally retailed for under US$70,000. Everyone’s on it The excitement as the lot came up was palpable. Auctioneer Aurel Bacs commented that so many bidders were phoning in that every Phillips employee on the phone bank was on the line. Although there were at least a half dozen bidders to start with – all on the phone save for one room bidder – the contenders thinned out at the HK$4.00 million mark. Remaining were just three bidders: Alex Ghotbi and Tiffany To of Phillips on the phones with clients, and the gentleman at the back of the room. Both based in Geneva, Mr Ghotbi and Ms To were presumably re...

WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists? Time+Tide
Rolex waitlists? If you ask May 21, 2023

WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists?

If you ask the average person to name a watch brand, they’ll most likely say Rolex. Such is the power of the company which arguably perfected the sports watch, and also transformed wristwatch marketing methods with memorable campaigns and endorsements. In terms of pure dollars, Rolex dominate the Swiss watch industry as well, with US$9.7B … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile” SJX Watches
Raketa May 18, 2023

Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile”

A Soviet-era watchmaker, Raketa has been rejuvenated by investors and a team advised by Manuel Emch, the former chief executive of Romain Jerome. The brand has brought back designs from its archives, while also producing new models inspired by its past. Falling squarely into the latter category, the Avant-Garde “The Horophile” takes it cues from Communist art while the palette comes courtesy of Amr Sindi, the Swiss-based watch influencer known as The Horophile. Initial thoughts In a relatively short time Raketa has managed to create a distinctive identity with its unique aesthetic. Precisely because of their Soviet-era style, many of the brand’s watches might seem drab. The new Avant-Garde, in contrast, stands out with its bright colours. It will certainly appeal to someone who appreciates the Raketa design but wants something more lively. Price-wise the Horophile edition is no different from the standard model. At €1,650 before taxes, the watch is reasonably priced, although Raketa movements generally could do with a bit more window dressing, even at the price. The purple rotor in the Horophile edition goes some way in improving the view from the back. Bolshevik art The dial of the Avant-Garde is inspired by Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, one of the best-known works by artist El Lissitzky, one of the proponents of the Russian avant-garde movement that flourished from the late 19th- t0 early-20th centuries. A 1919 propaganda poster, the work shows a red wedge ...

Ollech & Wajs Introduces the 8001, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Based on a 1970s Chronograph Worn & Wound
May 17, 2023

Ollech & Wajs Introduces the 8001, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Based on a 1970s Chronograph

Since Ollech & Wajs reconstituted itself in 2019, they’ve released a string of well regarded sports watches that pay tribute to some of the brand’s key designs from the 1960s and 1970s. This period, obviously, is fertile ground for watch design inspiration, with plenty of unusual, colorful attempts to build something different, along with your normal array of no fuss, black dialed divers. Ollech & Wajs has really focused on the hits, and on a somewhat insane commitment to build quality (my favorite example: the C-1000, one of the most under the radar 1,000 meter divers you’ll find anywhere). For this latest release, however, they’re looking toward an old design that is heavy with 70s funk, and then…un-funking it? At a glance, the new OW 8001 is the product of at least a few strange decisions.  Let’s step back a moment and take a look at the watch that inspired the OW 8001, the OW 8000. This year marks the 50th anniversary of Ollech & Wajs’ early foray into the integrated bracelet market in the form of a sporty, “TV dial” chronograph with a smoked brown dial. The case of the 8000 appears to be overbuilt and chunky in a way that Ollech & Wajs has always favored, but there’s a certain elegance to the case shape and the way the case connects to the bracelet (notice the facet angled downward at the top and bottom of the case). Ollech & Wajs were far from the only brand to make a TV dial style watch, and they certainly weren’t the only brand to experiment ...

A Different Kind of Coffee Watch: Hublot and Nespresso Team Up for a Big Bang Unico that is All About Recycled Materials Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer s Carrera from May 16, 2023

A Different Kind of Coffee Watch: Hublot and Nespresso Team Up for a Big Bang Unico that is All About Recycled Materials

In an early contender for what has to be in the running for the most unexpected and head spinning collaborative watches of the year, Hublot has partnered with Nespresso, the Swiss coffee company, on a big green chronograph made in part from recycled aluminum coffee capsules. It’s an effort by both brands to highlight their sustainability efforts, and an opportunity for Hublot flex some of their materials muscle. The end result is undeniably Hublot in its appearance, and kind of an under the radar coffee watch, which is more than can be said about LVMH stablemate TAG Heuer’s Carrera from a few years ago, with a dial made from actual coffee grounds. I actually quite like that coffee Carrera, and enjoy taking any opportunity available to remind people that it’s a real watch that actually exists.  Anyway, back to Hublot, and the Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin. To fully grasp this watch, you first need to have an understanding of Nespresso’s core product, which is a single serving coffee platform built around little aluminum capsules (containing the coffee) that get popped into a Nespresso machine, and at the touch of a button you get a perfectly brewed cup of coffee, espresso, or a selection of other hot and cold beverages. Nespresso, of course, isn’t the only game in town when it comes to this sort of single serving coffee machine, but one thing that sets them apart from some of their competition is a focus on the materials used for those capsules. The aluminum po...

First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? Time+Tide
Rolex novelties hit May 14, 2023

First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit?

No matter how exquisite the finishing, how innovative the escapement, or how beautiful the colour of the dial, unfortunately these days the worth of a watch can be far more literal in the eyes of the broader marketplace. Outside of the scope of die-hard watch geekdom, a watch is only alluring as its value on … ContinuedThe post First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it… Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso May 14, 2023

Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it…

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin finds use for recycled aluminium and coffee grounds from Nespresso capsules. You can even see flecks of coffee running throughout the rubber strap. The Hublot Greenbox is also being introduced, which will house all Hublot’s future collections. Recycled materials have been appearing more and more in Swiss luxury … ContinuedThe post Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Awake Concepts Returns with a New Pair of Limited Editions Sporting Meteorite Dials Worn & Wound
May 12, 2023

Awake Concepts Returns with a New Pair of Limited Editions Sporting Meteorite Dials

We first wrote about Awake last year, when they launched the very high concept Mission to Earth, a blockchain enabled, NASA co-branded watch that really sought to tell a very specific story about space exploration. I was a fan of that watch, mostly for the way it unapologetically leaned in to those larger themes, becoming what I suspect is a watch that was more sought after by NASA collector types than traditional watch enthusiasts. Their latest watch, dubbed “Time Travelers,” but also part of the Mission to Earth series has a similar point of view but a very different aesthetic, and in some ways feels a bit more coherent in how it gets its very specific message across.  Time Travelers is all about exploring the origins of our solar system through meteorites, the small asteroid fragments that are older than our planet and continue to teach us quite a bit about the nature of how planets and life were formed. Unsurprisingly, the centerpiece of this watch is its meteorite dial, crafted from a sliver of the Muonionalusta meteorite that struck the surface of our planet over one million years ago. The unique striations seen on a meteorite dial can’t be reproduced naturally on earth, and in addition to adding an element of poetry to an object whose primary concern is the passage of time, they also just look incredibly cool, and have a visual impact that is a lot fun. The case of the Time Travelers watch is crafted from recycled titanium, and will be available in two colors...