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Code 11.59 Audemars Piguet

AP's 2019 round watch family. Octagonal midcase, round bezel, double-curved sapphire.

MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing a new weekly series starring the world’s best microbrands, kicking off with William Wood Watches! Time+Tide
Mar 29, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing a new weekly series starring the world’s best microbrands, kicking off with William Wood Watches!

I don’t know how many times I’ve introduced a new segment, column or series on Time+Tide over the last six years. But I’d be prepared to bet that at least half the time, I’ve opened the post about it with these words: “Sorry, this took a long while to get to you. Good things take … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing a new weekly series starring the world’s best microbrands, kicking off with William Wood Watches! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Jay-Z Vs. Drake’s watch collection – and the winner is… Time+Tide
Mar 27, 2020

CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Jay-Z Vs. Drake’s watch collection – and the winner is…

Well, the results are in for the inaugural round of Celebrity Watch Death Match, and everything is coming up not just roses for Jay-Z, but “Rose Gold Concepts”. Which the man himself raps about in ‘Summer’ from the Everything Is Love album, a reference to his Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Chronograph in 18KT Rose Gold. Hove smashed Drizzy … ContinuedThe post CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Jay-Z Vs. Drake’s watch collection – and the winner is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Chronograph 40 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Chronograph 40 mm Mar 27, 2020

Up Close: Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Chronograph 40 mm

Rumours were percolating for some time that Audemars Piguet was going to unveil a vintage-inspired watch to mark the opening of its recently-finished, hairspring-shaped museum. But when the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph 40 mm was revealed, it was still surprising. In the metal, the “remastered” watch is appealing; it looks good and the execution is impressively high quality in all aspects. The dial in particularly is sharply done, with even the tiniest details done right. And the movement inside is modern – and looks modern – but is impeccably constructed. But at the same time, the watch is a bit thick, and also expensive. The [Re]master01 in steel and 18k pink gold The ref. 1533 As with many reissued or “remastered” timepieces, the inspiration for the [Re]master01 is a well-known and well-documented watch: the ref. 1533, a chronograph wristwatch produced in the 1940s. It was 36.5 mm in diameter, extra-large for the period, and a three-counter chronograph, instead of the two registers typical then. Only nine of them were made, three with two-tone, steel-and-gold cases. The archive photograph of the ref. 1533. Photo – Audemars Piguet Two examples of the steel-and-gold ref. 1533 were sold in recent years at Phillips auctioneers, both setting price records for the most expensive vintage AP chronograph sold at auction. The first sold for 305,000 Swiss francs in 2015 – going to the Audemars Piguet Museum – and the second, 384,500 franc...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Feat. Celebrity Death Match, Notorious Robberies and Every Watch Tells A Story returns! Time+Tide
Mar 26, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Feat. Celebrity Death Match, Notorious Robberies and Every Watch Tells A Story returns!

Good news is about as rare these days as a Hodinkee Limited Edition, especially the cache of their Limited Editions they released at retail this week as a goodwill gesture. But we do have some to make your Friday feel a little less surreal. Two months after the ‘Watch & Act!’ Auction had its glorious … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Feat. Celebrity Death Match, Notorious Robberies and Every Watch Tells A Story returns! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Seiko Prospex LX Spring Drive Diver SNR029 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko but more upscale than Mar 25, 2020

Up Close: Seiko Prospex LX Spring Drive Diver SNR029

Seiko produces a wide – really wide – variety of dive watches. Many are based on historical watches, with several of the high-end models in particular being inspired by the brand’s first 300 m dive watch of 1968. As a result, a good number of Seiko dive watches look pretty similar. When Seiko unveiled the Prospex LX line at Baselworld last year – the range is made up of six sports watches catered for air, land, and sea – the diver’s watch seemed, well, pretty similar to other Seiko dive watches. But the LX was not a typical range of sports watches, because it was designed in collaboration with Ken Okuyama, one of Japan’s most famous car designers – specifically, Mr Okuyama is best known for his work for Ferrari. The Prospex LX Spring Drive Diver SNR029 is a typical Seiko dive watch – it’s functional and solidly engineered, with a notably high quality of construction. But Mr Okuyama’s design adds a surprising degree of refinement to the design, which reimagines the retro style of the classical Seiko Hi-Beat diver of 1968 by sharpening the design and refining the details. Initial thoughts Seiko dive watches are highly regarded for their strong price-performance ratio at every level of the price spectrum. The Prospex LX Spring Drive Diver SNR029 is a mid-range model, more affordable than a Grand Seiko but more upscale than the base-model Prospex diver. In terms of functionality, fit and finish, the SNR029 scores highly. Legibility is excellent, Spring Dr...

RECOMMENDED READING: Taking the DOXA SUB 200 over the water, but not into it Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 over Mar 20, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Taking the DOXA SUB 200 over the water, but not into it

Kayaking isn’t the sport that immediately comes to mind when you think of DOXA, given that your DOXA is most comfortable hundreds of metres under the water, not necessarily on a narrow boat above the water. But that is exactly where fellow watch writer Sophie Furley from Watchonista took two different DOXA models on quite … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Taking the DOXA SUB 200 over the water, but not into it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

London, New York, Paris, Tokyo: The limited edition Hublots that celebrate the big 4 cities Time+Tide
Hublot s Mar 18, 2020

London, New York, Paris, Tokyo: The limited edition Hublots that celebrate the big 4 cities

Hublot has decided to celebrate their love of Britain’s capital city in quite a literal way – by producing this, the Hublot Classic Fusion Special Edition London. Based on the standard Classic Fusion, the 45mm case of the new London edition features bespoke elements such as a polished black ceramic case, black satin-finished bezel and … ContinuedThe post London, New York, Paris, Tokyo: The limited edition Hublots that celebrate the big 4 cities appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” SBGA407 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” Mar 16, 2020

Up Close: Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” SBGA407

One of the all-time best-selling Grand Seiko watches is the Spring Drive “Snowflake”, which gets the name from the its distinctive textured dial. And until recently, the snowflake dial was only available on models with bracelets, save for a few pricey limited editions with gold cases. That changed last year when Grand Seiko debuted the Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” SBGA407. It combines the famous dial with a more classical case, and a good deal of practicality – date, Spring Drive accuracy, and a surprising 100 m water resistance. On the wrist While most Grand Seiko watches are pretty discreet on the wrist, the “Blue Snowflake” makes a statement due to its colour. The styling is most definitely old school, but the pale-blue dial is both modern and unusual; it’s an unorthodox colour for a man’s watch, especially one that leans towards the dress-watch category, but it works. And the “Blue Snowflake” is also a manageable but modern size. The case is a bit over 40 mm in diameter, and fairly thick, while the bezel is narrow. The result is a watch that wears well and has a good presence on the wrist (with one caveat that is common to Grand Seiko watches on straps: the band has odd proportions, with one side being unnecessarily long). The snowflake story The original “Snowflake” was the Grand Seiko Spring Drive ref. SBGA011 (now known as the SBGA211) that made its debut in 2005. While it did have a titanium case and bracelet, which was fairly uncommon a...

Land, Sky or Sea – 5 Bremonts whose claim to fame is toughness Time+Tide
Bremont s whose claim Mar 14, 2020

Land, Sky or Sea – 5 Bremonts whose claim to fame is toughness

British watchmaker Bremont may have only been around since 2002, but in that time they’ve earned respect for watches that are durable and robust to an extreme degree, and British to a tee at all times throughout. Few breakthroughs have helped this reputation quite as much as the significant percentage of watches Bremont produce being … ContinuedThe post Land, Sky or Sea – 5 Bremonts whose claim to fame is toughness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life Time+Tide
Chanel J12 X-Ray Mar 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life

Transparency is almost always a good thing, be it in political donations, corporate bonuses or who your local member of parliament is having lunch with. It is a concept that Chanel has adopted as a motif in their watchmaking department, seen in the Boy.Friend Skeleton, their remarkable Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch (an almost US$800,000 skeletonised … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Diving through the decade – Seiko’s latest dive watches pay tribute to three classics Time+Tide
Blancpain Rolex Omega DOXA … Mar 9, 2020

Diving through the decade – Seiko’s latest dive watches pay tribute to three classics

Blancpain, Rolex, Omega, DOXA … these are the watchmakers we normally associate with being the doyens of creating dive watches. However, as Seiko is keen to point out in their latest trilogy release, the Japanese firm has been deeply submerged in the art form of birthing amphibious timepieces for quite some time too – 55 … ContinuedThe post Diving through the decade – Seiko’s latest dive watches pay tribute to three classics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019? Time+Tide
Seiko Mar 7, 2020

Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019?

Editor’s note: Seiko dropped what seemed like an innumerable amount of limited edition timepieces in 2019, and that got us thinking – which one was best? That’s a much tougher question than it sounds, but this SLA033 dive watch surely has to be in the running. A revival of the prolific 6105, a watch made … ContinuedThe post Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Crime or Sublime: Wearing a SUPER colourful watch Time+Tide
Mar 5, 2020

Crime or Sublime: Wearing a SUPER colourful watch

Some colourful watches are so loud they threaten to leave you with tinnitus. But is a brightly hued timepiece just a harmless switch-up that offers a bit of fun and welcome variety? Or is a super colourful watch an unforgivably gaudy choice that’s designed for look-at-me narcissists and the stylistically insane? Luke Benedictus and Nick … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Wearing a SUPER colourful watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Submariner Alternatives WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Mar 4, 2020

Rolex Submariner Alternatives

The Rolex Submariner is considered a benchmark for diving watches. It was introduced in 1953 as the first divers’ watch that was waterproof to 100 metres. The Submariner is so popular that some brands have created watches of their own that look very similar. If you’re not wedded to the Submariner then give some thought to the following three alternative watches that are just as good as the Submariner. What’s more is that they don’t have the hefty price tag or lengthy waitlists making them more appealing. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight The Tudor Black Bay 58 was released in 2018 at Baselworld and celebrates Tudor’s very first divers watch that was introduced in 1958. Tudor has always been seen as the more affordable alternative to Rolex after all it is a sub-brand of Rolex. The Tudor Black Bay 58 is priced at $5000 AUD and is the least expensive of the three alternative models. What I Instantly loved about the Tudor Black bay 58 are it’s gold hour markers, tudors snow flake hands and minute track of the black and steel bezel. These gold finishing touches are classy and stand out well against the black dial making it easier to tell the time. The black bay 58 has lume on all 12 hour makers, the snowflake hands and the 12 hour pip on the bezel. I’d say the lume on this watch is a strong point as it really pops.  It has a 39mm steel case with a polished and satin finish which is similar to the size of the Submariner’s 40mm case. It’s got a unidirectional rotatab...

Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Collection ‘Thin Dress’ SBGK007 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Elegance Collection ‘Thin Dress’ Mar 4, 2020

Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Collection ‘Thin Dress’ SBGK007

Grand Seiko’s newest design style – the “Thin Dress” – combines a slightly retro case and dial with the signature hallmarks of the brand like diamond-cut hour markers, while being original in that is not obviously based on a vintage Grand Seiko model. Launched in early 2019 as part of the Elegance Collection, first with quartz and then mechanical models, the new design is used for the flagship Spring Drive SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 – magnificently-crafted watches that unfortunately start at US$57,000. Fortunately, the line-up is diverse enough that it includes an entry-level, mechanical model with a robust price-to-performance ratio, the Elegance Collection “Thin Dress” SBGK007. The SBGK007 is a compact, hand-wound wristwatch with a fairly minimalist design along with a handful of retro elements – in short, it is handsome and slightly vintage in feel. And the SBGK007, along with the rest of the Elegance Collection, was designed after Grand Seiko was spun off from Seiko to create an independent brand. As a result, the watch was designed from the ground up as a Grand Seiko, and perhaps for that reason the dial feels more visually balanced than earlier models that had “Seiko” removed from the dial. Elegant retro The SBGK007 is a compact watch, but sized very well, neither too big nor too small, measuring 39 mm in diameter and 11.6 mm high. Because of the case style and construction, it feels thinner than it measures, while also having a strong vintage vibe i...

Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed] SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Gerald Genta Ulysse Nardin Mar 3, 2020

Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed]

Following the cancellation of both the year’s biggest watch fairs – Baselworld and Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG) – due to the COVID-19 coronavirus, a consortium of watch brands have come together to show their wares come April. The event, dubbed Geneva Watch Days, was the brainchild of Bulgari and its chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin – one of the first brands to pull out of Baselworld – and conceived with European press and retailers in mind. [Update March 24, 2020: GWD will now take place August 26-29, 2020 instead.] WWG to GWD Taking place when WWG was due to happen, April 26 to 29, Geneva Watch Days now has a line-up of brands big and small: Girard-Perregaux, Gerald Genta, Ulysse Nardin, Breitling, MB&F;, De Bethune and Urwerk. A handful more might sign on, including H. Moser & Cie. and Chopard. However, at present, none of the brands belonging to the major watchmaking conglomerates, Richemont or Swatch Group, or either of the Geneva giants, namely Rolex and Patek Philippe, has announced their participation – and are unlikely to due to the complexities of the industry. Crucially, Geneva Watch Days is not a fair per se, rather it is a series of events organised by brands in separate venues, including boutiques and hotels, but happening during the same period. Because the individual events during Geneva Watch Days are small-scale and discrete, none of them will run counter to the Swiss government’s temporary ban on events with over 1,000 people. ...

INTRODUCING: The triple threat of the Franck Muller Master Banker in steel Time+Tide
Franck Muller Mar 3, 2020

INTRODUCING: The triple threat of the Franck Muller Master Banker in steel

Franck Muller is known as the Master of Complications, and for good reason. Almost none of the watches produced by the Genevan watchmaker are straightforward, with watches that run backward, hour hands that jump around the dial, and a host of other marvels of mechanical engineering that both surprise and delight. This flair for the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The triple threat of the Franck Muller Master Banker in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results Time+Tide
Mar 2, 2020

Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results

Last week, Nick Kenyon and Luke Benedictus got into a horological war of words over the rights and wrongs of the humble NATO strap. Luke took a defensive why-the-hell-not approach while Nick stuck to the purist’s line that some things must remain sacrosanct otherwise the whole of civilisation will go to pot. We then threw … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos “Qatar Watch Club” SJX Watches
Chopard L.U.C GMT Mar 2, 2020

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos “Qatar Watch Club”

Founded two years ago, the Qatar Watch Club (QWC) is a community of internet-savvy watch enthusiasts in the wealthy Arab nation. The club recently got together with Tudor and local watch retailer Fifty One East to create the Pelagos “Qatar Watch Club”, a limited edition of the brand’s top-spec dive watch. The second QWC edition after last year’s Chopard L.U.C GMT, the Pelagos has “Qatar” in Arabic, or “قطر‎”, on the dial at six, replacing the five lines of text on the standard model, giving it a much cleaner look. The other point of distinction is the club logo engraved on the case back. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard model, which means a titanium case rated to 500 m and a scratch-resistant, blue-ceramic bezel insert. And the watch is equipped with the MT5612 movement. A proprietary calibre produced by Kenissi, a joint venture Tudor shares with Chanel, the calibre has a 70-hour power reserve, silicon hairspring, and is an all-round strong performer, particularly at this price point. The watch is delivered in a box bearing the QWC logo, as well as an additional blue rubber strap. Only 50 were produced – the club has 50 members – and at press time all have been spoken for. QWC members at last year’s launch event for the Chopard L.U.C GMT QWC edition. Photo – QWC Key facts Tudor Pelagos Qatar Watch Club Special Edition Ref. M25600TB-0001 Diameter: 42 mm Thickness: 14.3 mm Material: Titanium Water resistance: 500 m Movement:...

These are the five best watches in India, by popularity Time+Tide
Feb 28, 2020

These are the five best watches in India, by popularity

According to many, many news stories over the last 12 months, India is expected to overtake China as the world’s most populous country within the next decade, with the current population of roughly 1.37 billion set to skyrocket. It’s a country on the up and up, and its people are developing quite the taste for … ContinuedThe post These are the five best watches in India, by popularity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Casual Friday: Why we’re having our first ‘Indie Explorer’ event and what it’s all about Time+Tide
Feb 27, 2020

Casual Friday: Why we’re having our first ‘Indie Explorer’ event and what it’s all about

When I started Time+Tide, back in 2014, I was interested in microbrands. This afternoon, six years later, we will have our first ‘Indie Explorer’ event at Time+Tide. Better late than never. In the Casual Friday ethos, it will be a very chill kind of deal. Watches. A beer or two. And almost certainly good people. … ContinuedThe post Casual Friday: Why we’re having our first ‘Indie Explorer’ event and what it’s all about appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Urwerk to Sell UR-111C Worn by Robert Downey Jr. for Charity SJX Watches
Urwerk Feb 20, 2020

Urwerk to Sell UR-111C Worn by Robert Downey Jr. for Charity

Synonymous with playing Iron Man in Disney’s The Avengers franchise, Robert Downey Jr. is also a fan of Urwerk, having worn several of its watches on screen. Having loaned an Urwerk UR-105 CT to Mr Downey to wear in Avengers: Endgame, the watchmaker then offered the watch up for a good cause, selling it at Phillips auctioneers last year for US$312,500. Proceeds from the sale went to Random Act Funding, a charity established by Mr Downey and his wife, Susan. Now another watch worn by Mr Downey is going under the hammer, once again to benefit Random Act Funding. The watch in question is the UR-111C Black that was worn by Mr Downey to the premieres of Avengers: Endgame in New York and Los Angeles last year. Robert Downey Jr. sporting the UR-111C. Photos – Urwerk Offered in like-new condition, the UR-111C is one of just 25 examples made and identical to the standard model save for one important detail: “RDJ” is engraved on the case place where the serial number would usually be. The watch is being sold in an online auction, with the bidding starting at 125,000 Swiss francs. Bids can be placed from now until 9:00 pm Swiss time on February 24. Only registered members of Urwerk Pre-Owned can bid on the watch, and registration can be done on Urwerkpreowned.com. For more information, please contact Urwerk social media manager Alex Rose.  

IN-DEPTH: Exploring 3 eras of the Rolex Datejust – Part 2 Time+Tide
Rolex Datejust – Part 2 Feb 20, 2020

IN-DEPTH: Exploring 3 eras of the Rolex Datejust – Part 2

Find Part 1 of the Rolex Datejust history right here. A Power Watch in 1989: The Reference 16233 A good example of the historical adaptability of the Datejust came with the reversal of world fortunes in the 1980s. There were the literal fortunes made by young traders on Wall Street but also the overall optimism … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Exploring 3 eras of the Rolex Datejust – Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN CONVERSATION: With ocean explorer Fabien Cousteau Time+Tide
Feb 18, 2020

IN CONVERSATION: With ocean explorer Fabien Cousteau

Google Maps has done a good job of ruining the job of the safari-suited explorer, taking crystal clear pictures of the entire surface of the rock we call home. Where there is hope for the Indiana Jones’ of the world is what lies beneath the surface, where under the white-capped waves of the world’s oceans … ContinuedThe post IN CONVERSATION: With ocean explorer Fabien Cousteau appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.