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VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Limited Edition collection celebrates the real Top Guns Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Limited Edition Oct 29, 2021

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Limited Edition collection celebrates the real Top Guns

IWC rarely shy away from a limited edition, especially not when it’s in celebration of military icons. New to the IWC catalogues is a batch of Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Editions that celebrate three F/A-18 Super Hornet flying squadrons of the US Navy - the Royal Maces, the Tophatters, and the Blue Angels.  The dial As … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Limited Edition collection celebrates the real Top Guns appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Burgundy Red Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Burgundy Red Oct 26, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Burgundy Red Hands-on Review

Pros: Two watches in oneBurgundy Red dial and Rose gold case is a fantastic comboGood size Reverso may suit most wrists Cons: Some may find it to be expensiveLimited edition and boutique only – can be difficult to come byThe rectangular case may not suit all wrists Over All Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 9/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 9/10 I’m quite sure that we all know the story of how the Reverso came about quite well by now. If not, where have you been the last couple of decades? Even though it has been around since 1931, the watch did disappear from the range for a little while, before being resurrected in 1972 by an Italian watch dealer, Giorgio Corvo, who bought up the remaining Reverso cases (around 200) and sold them all in Italy after fitting them with a movement. Convinced that the range will sell, he persuaded Jaeger-LeCoultre to revive the range in the 80s. Fast forward to 1991, on the 60th anniversary of the Reverso, various complications were introduced in the watch. This was no small feat as there is a lot less room inside the rectangular case, and therefore being able to squeeze in complications meant that Jaeger-LeCoultre has had to overcome many obstacles. We may take a two-faced Reverso for granted these days, but even that requires years of development to achieve. This brings us to the watch today, one of the 90th-anniversary models, and quite possibly one of the prettiest, most elegant and stunning Reverso ever to g...

Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem: A Striking Reminder To Make Every Precious Moment Count Quill & Pad
Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Oct 25, 2021

Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem: A Striking Reminder To Make Every Precious Moment Count

One of Martin Green's favorite watches of 2021 is the Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem. At rest, the time is not visible on this watch. However, after pushing a snake-shaped button the entire dial comes to life as a rattlesnake begins to move and the skull begins to laugh at you. And finally you can see the time (but only if you need to).

Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Oct 21, 2021

Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana

Following a slew of affordable, vintage-inspired watches, with several made by Habring2, Massena Lab has moved decidedly upmarket with the Old School. The time-only wristwatch retains a typical of the American watch-design studio – once again vintage inspired with a sector-like dial – but boasts a significantly more refined finishing. The model name is a play on words – a reference to its classical design but also the watch is meant to evoke a montre d’école, or “school watch” in English, the graduation project of a watchmaking student. Despite the academic inspiration, the Old School is the work of an experienced watchmaker, Luca Soprana, who cofounded Ateliers 7h38, the complication workshop best known for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon. Initial thoughts Massena Lab founder William Rohr is an industry veteran – amongst other things he’s been managing director of Antiquorum Switzerland and consultant to Bonhams – who has cultivated a sharp eye for design an details. Mr Rohr also has a finger on the current pulse of watch collecting, and the Old School unsurprisingly encapsulates what many enthusiasts currently desire. The design and movement feature traditional elements that are popular now. It’s not meant to be an intriguing or creative product – it is old school after all – but instead a simple watch executed well. One element that illustrates Mr Massena’s keen eye is the dial. The simple design has just enough flair to make it attrac...

Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation SJX Watches
Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation Oct 18, 2021

Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation

Most familiar with its metallic, forest-green dial, the modern-day Seiko Alpinist is a mid-range model that’s long been a crowd-favourite for its distinctive design and affordability. But today’s Alpinist with its distinctive twin crowns, a design introduced in 1998, couldn’t be further from the original Laurel Alpinist that debuted over half a century ago as a sports watch catered to mountaineers. The original Alpinist of 1959. Photo – Seiko Seiko has successful grown the current Alpinist line up to encompass a diversity of models – all of which feature alternating Arabic and arrowhead hour markers – but finally returned to the original design of 1959 with a quartet of vintage-inspired reissues that were launched earlier in the year. Amongst the four, the standout is the Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation (ref. SJE085 or SBEN001), which is almost a like-for-like reissue (the other remakes are more loosely based on the original and officially known “Re-interpretations”). Most closely resembling the vintage original, the Alpinist Re-creation is the flagship model of the remakes, having a more elaborate execution as well as a higher-end movement. A cool “Bund” style strap with zigzag stitching evokes the strap on the 1959 original Initial thoughts The Alpinist Re-creation is an appealing little watch that’s almost straight out of a 1950s watch catalogue – save for the date window – thanks to the smallish 36.6 mm case and retro-style dial. It certa...

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club” SJX Watches
Breguet hands were historically found Oct 15, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club”

A collectors’ club based in the United Arab Emirates, Dubai Watch Club recently announced the latest special edition for its members. Based on the largest version of the Cartier wristwatch launched last year, the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club” is a distinctive new take on the classic design. Featuring a salmon dial inspired by the Santos-Dumont 90th Anniversary limited edition of 1994, the Dubai Watch Club version features Eastern Arabic hour numerals as is tradition for special editions made for the region. Initial thoughts A large but elegant watch, the Santos-Dumont XL is appealing in its original form, albeit looking very much like a classical Cartier. The Dubai Watch Club edition injects novelty into the design without doing too much. In fact, the only changes to the watch are the dial colour and hands, although Breguet hands were historically found on many Cartier models. But the best feature of the dial is the colour of the numerals, which are rendered in a dark red that was meant to mimic Cartier’s house colour. Notably, red numerals were traditionally found only on platinum watches, while the Dubai Watch Club edition is steel. The case material means the special edition is an easily affordable US$7,500, but that’s a moot point as the watch is available only to members of Dubai Watch Club. Dubai style Founded by local collector Adel Al Rahmani, Dubai Watch Club has some 120 members in its ranks. The club has commissioned a handful of speci...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A

A model often overshadowed by “hot” watches or more complicated ones, the ref. 5905 combines a pair of useful complications into an everyday dress watch, but it was previously available only in a conservative, luxe guise of precious metal case and classical dial colours. But now Patek Philippe is changing up the feel of the model with the Annual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5905/1A. Now cased in steel and matched with a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, the ref. 5905/1A retains the sectored dial found on earlier versions of the model, but now in olive green – the same shade found on the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s opening act for the year was the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial (and with the option of a diamond-set bezel), an immediate hit that has become one of the most sought-after watches of 2021. The Nautilus was already hot, as all sports watches with integrated bracelets are, but bestowing the most fashionable colour of the year on the “final edition” of the Nautilus ref. 5711 escalated its desirability to the stratosphere. That bodes well for the ref. 5905/1A. The ref. 5905/1A will be instantly attractive since it caters to current tastes. Its inevitable desirability will overshadow its intrinsic qualities (and also the accessible price), which is a bit of a shame. While intriguing it is not, the ref. 5905/1A is a good-looking watch, and one executed in a practical material while offering usef...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R

A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P

Patek Philippe just launched a trio of new chronographs, all variants of existing models. While the ref. 5905/1A in steel is the most affordable, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P-001 is surely the most striking with its emerald-green guilloche dial (which is a brighter shade than the olive green of the ref. 5905/1A or Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014). And despite a dial colour that’s novel for a world-time model, the ref. 5930P does hark back to historical world-time watches with its silver cities ring. Initial thoughts The ref. 5930P is only a different take on an existing model, but it’s certainly a vivid new look. Past versions of the ref. 5930 were either subdued (which was the original in blue) or too much (the Singapore edition in red). The ref. 5930P in emerald green appears striking but just right. A key point of appeal is the silver world-time ring that gives it a look that more closely resembles vintage world time watches, which is a good thing for anyone who appreciates historical Patek Philippe design. This contrasts with earlier versions of the ref. 5930, both of which had tone-on-tone world-time rings, making them less prominent. Notably, Patek Philippe historically utilised such bright colours only on limited editions, so the ref. 5930P is an unusual watch amongst the standard offerings. That said, with green being the most fashionable colour of the year, it goes without saying that the ref. 5930P will be mostly unavailable for the near future. Emerald g...

The story behind our Night Surfer – a Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton with five premieres and limited to 100 pieces Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Oct 12, 2021

The story behind our Night Surfer – a Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton with five premieres and limited to 100 pieces

When I say ‘our’ there in the title; ‘our’ Night Surfer, a nickname this watch adopted early on when the vertical gradient of the dial and star came together, I mean it. The amount of collaboration that went into this extraordinary watch is hard to adequately describe in a short written post. So in anticipation … ContinuedThe post The story behind our Night Surfer – a Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton with five premieres and limited to 100 pieces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch Time+Tide
Sinn Oct 11, 2021

Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch

What is probably the most important and significant Sinn U1 dive watch has surfaced in Wellington, New Zealand. The Sinn U1 is one of the most recognisable and respected dive watches available today.  With its almost Bauhaus utilitarian dial, iconic syringe hands and bead-blasted Tegiment Submarine Steel case, this watch is no pretender, flexing in … ContinuedThe post Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 9, 2021

Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

With Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale just around the corner, we’re rounding up a half-dozen notable vintage watches from the auction, primarily big-ticket Patek Philippe complications. Amongst them a few oddities, one a Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a perpetual calendar with the moon phase omitted, and the other the Rolex Day-Date with a  “Submariner” dial. With the preview exhibition open daily from now till October 12, the auction will take place on October 13. The catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2265: Patek Philippe ref. 130 The oldest watch of the selection is a Patek Philippe ref. 130, the brand’s first serially-produced wristwatch chronograph that remained in the catalogue for over three decades. The model’s longevity makes it an inevitability that a good number of ref. 130 variants exist. Indeed, the model varies greatly in terms case material and dial design, with some combinations being rarer than others. One such rare combination is a steel case with “sector” dial, like the present example. Made by Wenger, the steel cases of the ref. 130 have shorter and wider-spaced lugs compared to the gold cases that made by Vichet, giving the 33 mm case a more imposing appearance Chronograph wristwatches from that era typically feature tiny counters that sit close to the edge of the dial, leaving the dial clean and distinctly vintage. But the “sector” dial here is an entirely different animal – the sect...

Nomos Debuts the Zürich Worldtimer Limited Edition Singapore 2021 SJX Watches
Nomos Debuts Oct 8, 2021

Nomos Debuts the Zürich Worldtimer Limited Edition Singapore 2021

Nomos releases retailer-specific limited editions on a regular basis, and the latest addition to that lineup is the Zürich Worldtimer Limited Edition Singapore 2021, a 50-piece run for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass. Based on the Zürich Weltzeit, the Singapore edition has a yellow gold-plated dial with a grained finish, matched with blued hands, as well as the city state in red on the world time ring. Initial thoughts Retailer editions are a Nomos favourite – just last month it was the turn of Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers – so there really are a lot of them, reducing the novelty of the idea. That said, it is often such limited editions that are the most interesting in terms of colour palette, making them far more compelling than the standard Nomos offerings. That’s the case with the new Singapore edition, which is dressed in a colour and finish not usually found on Nomos watches. While the design remains distinctly Nomos, the livery gives the watch a slightly more striking appearance than the typical Nomos, which tend toward a more muted appearance. Colour aside, the Singapore edition has all the strengths and weakness of the standard version. The strengths are primarily the easy-to-operate world time as well as attractive movement, while the weaknesses are the long lugs and the small font for the world time display. Gilt and blue Besides the gilded finish that’s unusual for Nomos, the dial of the Singapore edition also has a granular texture that’s more p...

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Chronoscope SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Sep 24, 2021

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Chronoscope

The latest from Omega is a surprise: a Speedmaster powered by a new, manual-wind calibre but fitted with a retro-inspired, multi-scale dial. Equipped with the full-spec cal. 9908, the Speedmaster Chronoscope is a 43 mm chronograph with a dial bearing three sets of measurement scales: tachymeter, telemeter, and pulsometer. While the multi-scale dial is modelled on vintage Omega chronographs of the 1940s, the case is classic Speedmaster with its characteristic “twisted” or “lyre” lugs. Initial thoughts The Chronoscope is essentially combines well-known chronographs from two disparate periods in Omega’s history: the multi-scale dial typically associated with the vintage CK 2393 powered by the cal. 33.3 from the 1940s, plus the Speeedmaster case that is a 1960s design. But it is distinctly 21st century in mechanics with the new cal. 9908 inside. While any one of those might be appeal on their own, together they don’t work well. The Speedmaster case design is about three decades older than the multi-scale so it feels incongruent. To be fair, the dial looks to be well executed with good detail and design. The portions of the dial look good and the applied numerals are a nice touch. And pricing is fair as well. But despite the appeal of the individual elements, the whole is less than the sum of the parts. Still, the design makes sense from a broader, commercial perspective since it adds a new look to the stable of designs for the Speedmaster, which is one of Omega...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium

First introduced as a handful of limited editions (including for Japanese retailer Yoshida), the minute repeating, luxury-sports watch has finally become a permanent addition to the Audemars Piguet catalogue with the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in Titanium. Despite its low-key looks, a tone-on-tone palette of a smoked, grey dial and brushed titanium case, the Royal Oak repeater  is loud – literally – thanks to the patented Supersonnerie system within, which produces chimes that are clearer and louder than those of a traditional striking wristwatch. Initial thoughts The superb acoustics are unquestionably the focal point of the latest from Audemars Piguet (AP) – it is undeniably a successful striking complication thanks to the clever case (we explained the Supersonnerie in an earlier story). But the design of the Royal Oak repeater is arguably near perfect and worth a leading mention. At a glance the repeater looks very much like a typical Royal Oak, but the dial layout gives it perhaps the most classical face amongst its siblings. It has no date, and instead a small seconds at six to replace the central seconds found on most Royal Oak models. The seconds-at-six layout is typical of a dress watch, and it isn’t special per se, but it is unique for a Royal Oak, which was after all designed as a sports watch. By way of its thinness (at least in its original ref. 5402 “Jumbo” guise), the Royal Oak has always retained an elegant air that resonates wit...