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Quartz Crisis

1969-1985 industry collapse triggered by the Seiko Astron. Cost Swiss watchmaking two-thirds of its workforce; rebounded via Swatch Group consolidation and Biver's Blancpain.
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The Quartz Astron Launch Seiko

Christmas Day 1969: Seiko launches the world\'s first quartz wristwatch and detonates the Swiss watch industry.
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Snowflake Grand Seiko

The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.
Rolex Debuts Documentary on Marine Conservationists SJX Watches
Rolex Debuts Documentary Jun 22, 2021

Rolex Debuts Documentary on Marine Conservationists

A devoted supporter of environmental causes, Rolex has evolved from evolved from backing explorers who ventured into the unknown to bankrolling their modern-day equivalents who seek to save the planet from climate change. Now Rolex is bringing its conservation efforts to light on an easily accessible channel. On World Oceans Day that took place earlier this month, Heroes of the Ocean made its premiere on YouTube and rolex.org (or you can watch it further down). The documentary part of Perpetual Planet, the wide-ranging initiative established by Rolex in 2019 to back a variety of conservationists. Presented by noted oceanographer Dr Sylvia Earle – an octogenarian who’s been a Rolex Testimonee for over four decades – the hour-long documentary explains mankind’s impact on the oceans, and eight individuals working to combat that. With magnificent videography and stirring music, the film uncovers the work of the marine scientists and activists. From planting corals to empowering the next generation of conservationists, each of the scientists and activists featured in the film is on a mission to improve the health of the oceans. Dr Sylvia Earle founded Mission Blue, an organisation set up marine protected areas around the world Persuasive storytelling I watched the movie and enjoyed it – and you will too – as the production quality is impressive and its content inspirational. It captures the grandeur and beauty of marine life, enough to inspire the casual reader t...

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 16, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G

Patek Philippe keeps up the pace with the fourth instalment of new releases for the year, which were just announced at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva. While most of the watches at the exhibition are one-offs bestowed with colourful, artisanal decoration, the line up includes an ensemble of repeating watches, led by the flamboyant Sky Moon Tourbillon in pink gold and brown. Simpler, at least relatively speaking, is the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G that packs a pair of high-end complications fronted by a blue, grand feu enamel dial. Initial thoughts Today’s launches stand in stark contrast to the brand’s hottest watches of the moment – the sports watches that are arguably its most recognisable products now – that were its opening act for the year. Patek Philippe launched a slew of exquisite, highly decorated timepieces today, affirming its twin strengths – haute horlogerie and metiers d’art. The generous array of Rare Handcrafts, along with the fact that several are chiming watches, is a reminder that Patek Philippe is more than a faddish, integrated-bracelet sports watch. That said, the ref. 5374 is not entirely new (neither is the flagship Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R). In fact, the only truly new reference amongst the Rare Handcrafts complications is the Ladies Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G. The ref. 5374 was first introduced in 2016 with a platinum case and black enamel dial – a formal, classical package. Now it ge...

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 16, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G

While the Sky Moon Tourbillon introduced at the same time is bold and over the top, the Rare Handcrafts Ladies’ Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G is graceful and delicately detailed. Now the only minute repeater for ladies in the catalogue, the ref. 7040/250G features a dial with spiral guilloche covered in translucent enamel, match with unusual, spear-shaped hands and markers. Initial thoughts The ref. 7040/250G is surprisingly reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s men’s watch of the 1990s with its “officer’s” case. In fact, that case is quite close to that of the ref. 5029, the limited-edition minute repeater made in 1997 to commemorate the opening of its factory in Plans-les-Ouates. That resemblance is a good thing, because the ref. 5029 was an elegant, classical watch. The new repeater shares similar lines, but has been tastefully dressed up as a ladies watch with a diamond bezel and guilloche dial. The dial is a first for Patek Philippe, and certainly good looking. There’s a hint of Laurent Ferrier design in the dial, but again, the resemblance isn’t a bad thing. All in all, the ref. 7040/250G is an all-rounder – a pretty watch with a finely detailed dial and a complex movement. Svelte dimensions Slightly larger than the preceding minute repeater for ladies (the ref. 7000 that was 33.7 mm), the ref. 7040/250G has a case of 18k white gold that measures just 36 mm by 10.14 mm high – more or less the dimensions the men’s minute repeater of the 1990s. The rou...

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Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!) Time+Tide
Jun 3, 2021

Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!)

Editor’s note: As part of his ongoing column, David thumbs his nose at high horology to rummage through the bargain bin and unearth some mind-boggling bang for your buckaroos. While it may sound like a ski run in the Alps, the Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is actually a rather handsome timepiece with a distinct Bauhaus aesthetic and … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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This week, Christies are promising the “Auction of the Decade”. So should you believe the hype? Time+Tide
May 16, 2021

This week, Christies are promising the “Auction of the Decade”. So should you believe the hype?

It’s always a good idea in marketing to talk a strong game. But after describing the forthcoming Legends of Time in Hong Kong as the “auction of the decade”, Christies are setting the stakes sky-high. For the auction that takes place on Saturday, May 22 over two sessions, Christies estimates a total tally of over … ContinuedThe post This week, Christies are promising the “Auction of the Decade”. So should you believe the hype? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must presents a statement piece with a blast of colour Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Must presents Apr 7, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must presents a statement piece with a blast of colour

Too often in watchmaking the focus is only on the technical and the very expensive. Yes, it’s critical for the watch industry to continue to innovate, but complication for its own sake serves a very limited number of ends. Sometimes I wish there were more watches that just focused on being fun, lighthearted and affordable, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must presents a statement piece with a blast of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: Elvis was a Sith Lord in a parallel universe and he wore the Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton Time+Tide
Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton First Mar 27, 2021

INTRODUCING: Elvis was a Sith Lord in a parallel universe and he wore the Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton

First impressions: a stealth black UFO. perhaps? And then a red pulsating zig-zag that I feel like illustrating with a comic book “ZAP!”. This is my introduction to the Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton. Fresh from being inspired by the vintage purity of the Intra-Matic chronograph we recently covered here, I was not expecting this dark … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Elvis was a Sith Lord in a parallel universe and he wore the Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: The Moser Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade is a brilliantly subversive response to the Apple Watch Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2021

VIDEO: The Moser Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade is a brilliantly subversive response to the Apple Watch

Forever the provocateur of the Swiss watch industry, Moser is up to its old tricks again. Say hello to the Moser Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade, the last chapter in the Swiss Alp Watch saga that began way back in 2016. Half a decade ago it was a totally new release from the manufacturer with … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Moser Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade is a brilliantly subversive response to the Apple Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Book Review: ‘Stalin’s Wine Cellar’ By John Baker Quill & Pad
Jan 12, 2021

Book Review: ‘Stalin’s Wine Cellar’ By John Baker

Whether 'Stalin’s Wine Cellar' is a journey about chasing fakes, or if these bottles hidden away in the former Soviet Union are genuine, the story makes for a rollicking saga. And if the bottles are genuine, who really did own them and what on earth might they be worth? The tale takes us on twist after twist and has been described as “Raiders of the Lost Ark for wine lovers.” Ken Gargett couldn't put the book down.

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INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Sep 27, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year

In a year of great horological heights, Glashütte Original is once again pushing for the summit with the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 limited edition. This comes after a succession of eye-catching 2020 releases, featuring some of the best dials in the business, and fascinating top tier versions of their vintage perfect diver SeaQ, which made … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Sinn Introduces the U1 DE SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Sep 1, 2020

Sinn Introduces the U1 DE

Sinn’s latest limited edition commemorates two events – one inextricably linked to the other. The overarching theme of the U1 DE is the 30th anniversary of the reunification of Germany, explaining the dial done in the colours of the German flag. Without German reunification, the second event would have been impossible – the partnership between Sinn and case maker SUG (short for Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH Glashütte), which is based in the watchmaking town of Glashütte in the former East Germany. Headquartered in Frankfurt, Sinn first began working with SUG in 1999, before taking a majority stake after the 2002 floods inundated Europe and hit SUG hard. Initial thoughts The U1 is a likeable watch because it is affordable, incredibly robust, and solidly functional. Though it is a large 44 mm, the U1 does not feel as big as it measures. Its only downside is the Sellita SW200-1 movement within, which suffers from a short 38-hour power reserve. The U1 DE isn’t that much different from the standard all-black U1. Essentially it’s a little different on the dial and hands, along with the extra-large Sinn and SUG logos on the back – which really look too big. Ordinarily, limited edition iterations of standard watches are not interesting. But the U1 is an excellent watch, and the U1 DE doesn’t cost that much more than the standard version; the premium is about 15%. That’s a fair deal for something that looks different, while still retaining the no-nonsense st...

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Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph during Aug 21, 2020

Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport

Tennis players are well known for being ambassadors of various watch brands. Serena Williams has recently been spotted playing with her Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph during matches, Roger Federer with his Rolex Sky-Dweller (when his match is over), as well as Rafael Nadal with his RM 27­-03 Manual Winding Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Edition. Gael … ContinuedThe post Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: Hands-on with the Peren Hintz, a field watch with warmly nuanced touches Time+Tide
Jul 26, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Hands-on with the Peren Hintz, a field watch with warmly nuanced touches

Normally, when the name Transylvania is uttered, a certain fictional monster comes to mind. But for this week’s Micro Mondays, we’re taking a look at something hailing from the gothic region of Romania that doesn’t want to suck your blood … just your bank account. And not nearly as vociferously as many rival brands. Peren … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Hands-on with the Peren Hintz, a field watch with warmly nuanced touches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Awesome Door Handle Built Like a Split-Seconds Mechanism SJX Watches
Jun 28, 2020

The Awesome Door Handle Built Like a Split-Seconds Mechanism

Established by a robotics entrepreneur, Sick Toiz specialises in, well, “sick toys” – exceptional objects with a mechanical bent that have been produced with high-end methods and then finished by hand. Amongst its most extraordinary, and preposterous, creations is the Rattrapante Passage Lock, a door lock and handle that functions like a bona fide split-seconds mechanism. Initial thoughts The Rattrapante Passage Lock is an ordinarily trivial item – it is in essence a door knob – executed to an excruciatingly high standard. Clearly catered for a niche clientele who have an innate appreciation of engineering, finishing, and machining, the Passage Lock costs US$63,500. It is ridiculous, but also incredible. Sick Toiz founder Tyler Schilling obviously spared no expense in building an ultra-complex door handle, either in design, manufacturing, or finishing. The components, for instance, are made on a five-axis CNC machine, instead of a four-axis CNC machine, which would have simpler and probably yielded a barely discernible difference. Even the spokes of the split-seconds wheel have bevelled edges. Something like this is only possible when conceived by someone who genuinely appreciates such things and importantly, someone who can afford to back such a project as a hobby. An engineer’s eye The man behind Sick Toiz, Tyler Schilling, is a nerd in the best sense of the word. Having grown up with a father who was mechanically inclined but a doctor by profession, Mr Schil...

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Business News: Baselworld 2021 Cancelled and Exhibitors Get Refunds [Updated] SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Chanel Chopard May 7, 2020

Business News: Baselworld 2021 Cancelled and Exhibitors Get Refunds [Updated]

This year’s Baselworld saga has finally arrived at its epilogue and the inevitable outcome has been made official: MCH Group just announced that Baselworld 2021 has been cancelled. Simultaneously, the event’s organisers also announced that an “agreement on the settlement for the cancelled Baselworld 2020” – presumably with more substantial refunds – was reached with exhibiting brands. That settles the brief-but-intense circumstances surrounding Baselworld 2020, which began when this year’s fair was cancelled and then “postponed” to January 2021. Along with the “postponement”, exhibitors for the 2020 fair were only offered partial refunds of the event fees. Both moves, which were regarded as unilateral and unfair by watch brands, led to a stinging response from the exhibitors, led by their committee chairman, a senior executive of Rolex, the world’s largest luxury watch brand. A week later, Baselworld suffered its death blow when the fair’s biggest exhibitors – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard, and Tudor – pulled out of the event and decamped to Geneva, where they will join Watches & Wonders in a brand-new event that’ll take place in April 2021. They were followed shortly after by the brands owned by LVMH, which include Hublot and Bulgari. With that, the cancellation of Baselworld 2021 was fait accompli, even though Baselworld responded by insinuating the exhibitors had long been conspiring to exit the event. The cavernous Rolex booth...

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INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection Apr 29, 2020

INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection

The translucent blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea often conjure images of beach towels draped over deckchairs, shade umbrellas and Aperol Spritz, offering sunbakers relief from a cloudless sky, and small fishing boats rocking back and forth not far from shore. It is this idyllic scene that Panerai has embraced with their latest collection of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Pandemic Truths – Jean-Claude Biver SJX Watches
Apr 21, 2020

Pandemic Truths – Jean-Claude Biver

Who better than Jean-Claude Biver to reflect on the current crisis? He is an emblematic figure in watchmaking, with a career that’s spanned half a century, one that started in another, long-ago crisis caused by quartz watches. Always passionate and frank, Jean-Claude played a major role in the rise of mechanical watchmaking, contributing a large part to the boom of the 1990s. Working from his chalet in the ski town of Crans-Montana in Switzerland, Jean-Claude spoke to me over the phone. Here is our conversation. Jean-Claude’s selfie from his study This crisis sheds light on the weaknesses of our current economic systems. How has it impacted your business? Obviously it impacts us like everyone else, because no matter how good your sales team is, or how many stores you have, or how well situated they are – if there is nobody out there, it hurts your business. But we have developed a few ideas to keep business going. We are always trying to implement strategies to combat the situation. And all crisis create opportunities as well. When China was closed, we organised limousine services to bring one customer at a time to our boutiques that were open just for them. It created a sense of security, ease and comfort, so we actually managed to do some business, even during that time. This is going to be a long [crisis]. By the time it gets back to normal, we will have to be ready. Now is the time to bring in innovation again, in distribution and equally, in sales. How do you e...

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The Modifier’s Series – Artisans De Genève and their 5 best models so far Time+Tide
Apr 2, 2020

The Modifier’s Series – Artisans De Genève and their 5 best models so far

Editor’s note: ‘Modding’ a watch is not a trend in watchmaking, it is a trope. It has, and always will be, a part of the watchmaking and watch-wearing world as companies and individuals seek to personalise and individualise watches. A uniquely modified watch becomes more of a statement. And it offers an alternative to a ‘Piece … ContinuedThe post The Modifier’s Series – Artisans De Genève and their 5 best models so far appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breguet travel watches and the spirit of exploration – the Hora Mundi ref. 5717 Time+Tide
Breguet travel watches Feb 15, 2020

Breguet travel watches and the spirit of exploration – the Hora Mundi ref. 5717

Editor’s note: Breguet has a remarkable history of producing clocks and watches that were designed for travel. Whether it’s the marine chronometers made to set sail across the world’s oceans, or the more conventional GMT wristwatch, the brand has always understood the human urge to seek what is over the horizon. With the Hora Mundi … ContinuedThe post Breguet travel watches and the spirit of exploration – the Hora Mundi ref. 5717 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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