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Results for White Gold vs Platinum

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Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Dubail Edition SJX Watches
Cartier Dec 26, 2019

Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Dubail Edition

Before the monumental Grand Complication was launched in 2013 – essentially a wristwatch remake of a pocket watch sized like a pocket watch – the most complicated A. Lange & Söhne was the Tourbograph. Launched in 2005, it combined a split-seconds chronograph with a tourbillon regulator as well as a chain and fusee. A limited edition of 51 watches conceived as a tribute to the Günter Blümlein (1943-2001), revered for having reestablished A. Lange & Söhne after the fall of the Berlin Wall, the Tourbograph was powered by the L903.0 movement, made up of 465 parts, excluding the tiny chain. Cased in platinum, it was the original Lange uber-complication; a later edition of 50 pieces had a honey gold case, followed by an even more complex version with a perpetual calendar. Same but different Level up But Lange went one better and made a singular example of the ultimate Tourbograph, which was the most expensive Lange at the time. This Tourbograph was a unique piece set with 202 diamonds on the case – including one brilliant-cut diamond on the crown – and 175 on the bracelet, for a total of 377 diamonds weighing 40.6 carats. Diamonds aside, it is also unique as the only Tourbograph known that’s fitted to a matching platinum bracelet. Unveiled in 2009, it was made for Dubail, destined for its flagship store – which opened just the year before – on the Place Vendome, the posh square in Paris that is home to the Hotel Ritz and grand French jewellers like Cartier and...

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Up Close: J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series SJX Watches
Dec 13, 2019

Up Close: J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series

An educator by profession, Josh Shapiro had a longtime interest in watchmaking, which sharpened into a pursuit of traditional engine turning in 2013. After several years of practice – and a roomful of guilloche machines – the self-taught guillocheur and watchmaker produced a handful of dials for American watchmaker David Walter in 2016. And last year Josh launched his own brand, J.N. Shapiro, which he now pursues full-time, while remaining a part-time vice principal at a high school in Los Angeles. His debut watch was the Infinity Series, named after the Infinity Weave, a proprietary guilloche pattern he invented. The first J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series delivered, the watch pictured here, was finished earlier this year – and is numbered “N.01”. Though Josh offers a variety of options for the case and dial colours, this watch hews closely to the prototype, with a rose gold case, silver dial, and blue hands. It’s important to note this is actually the first watch Josh sold, and consequently shows some of the inevitable inconsistencies of a watchmaker’s early work. There are a couple of stray marks and burrs on the dial, and a bit of lint, but the early work of independent watchmakers is usually inconsistent, which is part of the hand-finished charm, and also proof of how artisans evolve. Josh’s subsequent dials have improved tremendously. Josh Shapiro with one of his straight-line machines. Photo – J.N. Shapiro The Infinity Series has a simple but effect...

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H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 6, 2019

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine

Introduced almost a decade ago in 2010, the H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Moon is among the most accurate moon phase watches on the market, deviating by a day after 1027.3 years. A complex mathematical feat, the moon phase mechanism was originally conceived by none other than independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler, who himself holds the record for the most precise moon phase display in the world – accurate to a day in 2.045 million years. Having unveiled the watch with a blacker-than-black Vantablack dial a year ago, H. Moser & Cie. has now introduced the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine that has a sparkly aventurine glass dial evoking a night sky. Full of stars Like many of Moser’s watches, the case of the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept is relatively large at 42mm wide and 13.1mm high due to the movement inside. It is available in both a red gold or a stainless-steel case that are characterised by a generously sloping bezel and brushed case band punctuated with polished concave flanks. The dial is made of aventurine glass, also known as goldstone, a man-made material produced by mixing fine metal particles into blue glass. Aventurine glass is often used in watchmaking, specifically for moon phases and calendar displays, for its striking, iridescent reflections that create the impression of a starry sky. According to legend, aventurine glass was discovered by accident on the Venetian island of Murano in the 16th century when copper filings fell into a vat o...

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Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones Even Oct 29, 2019

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones

Even amongst avant-garde watchmakers, De Bethune stands out for its substance – aesthetic and material innovation matched by technical ingenuity. At its core, the brand has reimagined the most fundamental aspects of mechanical timekeeping, from the barrel to the hairspring, while pushing the boundaries of traditional complications, be it the moon phase, tourbillon or chronograph. But arguably its most distinctive innovation is an aesthetic one, which has come to define the brand no less – heat-blued titanium. The brand has used the alloy for more than 15 years across various parts of the watch, even making almost a whole watch out of it. But now De Bethune has a twist on the theme, resulting in the DB28 Yellow Tones in brilliant golden titanium. Fiery yellow Though the colour of the new DB28 is striking, it is by no means loud, as the amber shade of yellow isn’t the same as yellow gold and doesn’t pass off as such. In fact, it looks more like fresh brass than gold. The colour was achieved through thermal oxidisation of the surface, essentially the same process as that used for blued titanium (and also the same for blued steel). The yellow surface, just like the blue, is the result of an oxide that forms on the surface of titanium when it is heated to a certain temperature. But amber yellow tone in this case was created by heating it at a lower temperature than used for blued titanium. Titanium undergoes different stages of oxidation when heated, and yellow is o...

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IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph “80 Years Flight to New York” SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Oct 15, 2019

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph “80 Years Flight to New York”

IWC’s latest limited edition is a surprisingly small run – 80 pieces to mark the 80th anniversary of the flight of the giant Latécoère 521 flying boat Lieutenant de Vaisseau Paris from New York to Lac de Biscarrosse in Southwestern France. Starting on Bastille Day, July 14, in 1939, the flight was the first nonstop crossing of the North Atlantic by flying boat. A passenger on the 28-hour, 27-minute journey was French aviator Antoine de Saint Exupéry. And it happens that one of IWC’s most popular sub-collections of pilot’s watches watches is Le Petit Prince, named after the famous novel by de Saint Exupéry. So the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph Edition “80 Years Flight to New York” is an offshoot of the Le Petit Prince collection, with a few tweaks. It retains the vaguely retro flavour, with Gothic-esque numerals and lozenge hands, but instead of the standard blue dial of Le Petit Prince, the anniversary watch has a brown metallic dial, matched with brown ceramic bezel. The edition is based on the Timezoner Chronograph, usually available only in the standard black and white livery of IWC’s basic Pilot’s Watches. It’s an unusual watch that combines both a flyback chronograph and IWC’s proprietary “timezoner” mechanism. Originally developed by the defunct watch brand Vogard, the timezoner mechanism has a rotating world time bezel linked to the second time zone, so turning the bezel moves the 24-hour hand in one-hour ste...

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Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Singapore 2019 Ref. 5531R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Sep 27, 2019

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Singapore 2019 Ref. 5531R

Originally introduced in 2017 for the Grand Exhibition in New York, the Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R was the first minute repeater that could chime the local time, as opposed to a conventional world-time repeater that would only strike the home time. The reference then entered regular production in 2018 with a cloisonné enamel of Lake Geneva, or the lac Léman as locals know it, a recurring motif on Patek Philippe enamel watches. Patek Philippe has now unveiled a special-edition version for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition 2019 in Singapore, featuring a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the city centre of Singapore, along with the country’s name listed on the city disc in place of Beijing. It joins the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R as one of the grand complications created especially for the event. As was always the case, the watch is in red gold and measures 40.2mm wide. it features hand-guillochéd, hobnail pattern on the case band as well as on the repeater slide on the left. In it is the self-winding cal. R 27 HU which features the patented repeater mechanism that chimes the time of the city at the 12 o’clock position on the world time mechanism. While a minute repeater usually operates independently from the world time and thus chimes only the home time, the two mechanisms in this case are mechanically coupled. The hour snail of the repeater is continuously driven by the time zone wheel of the world time mechanism. ...

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Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref 3700 Sep 3, 2019

Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2”

The Phillips Perpetual boutique in London officially opens this week with 40 watches encompassing all important genres of watch collecting, from a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” to a Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref. 3700 (from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver no less). But one of the flagship offerings is an important example of independent watchmaking – a Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” that’s “No. 1”. It is very much a quintessential, early Roger W. Smith creation with the hallmark elements of his watchmaking. But the watch is also historically interesting, being an example of the road not taken for Mr Smith. The forgotten “Edition” This watch illuminates an intriguing bit of early Roger W. Smith history. Shortly after Mr Smith delivered the first batch of Series 2 watches in late 2007, he decided to create the “Edition” concept. According to Mr Smith, the idea was to produce Series 2 as a limited edition of 90 watches in total, with 30 watches in each colour of gold. All Edition watches had 38mm cases and solid silver dials; the Edition 1 was in yellow gold, Edition 2 in rose, and Edition 3 in white gold. At the same time, Mr Smith also offered custom versions of the Series 2, which were also available in a platinum case. But as it turned out, most clients wanted a custom watch, rather than an Edition example. So Mr Smith discreetly abandoned Edition not long after, and only a five of each Edition were made. This is on...

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Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sep 2, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial

Seiko has cultivated its Presage collection as one that offers watches featuring dials decorated with artisanal techniques like Shippo enamel or Arita porcelain, but at extremely affordable prices. Now Seiko has just rolled out the first-ever Presage watches powered by the brand’s best-known innovation – the Spring Drive, an electronically regulated mechanical movement previously only found in Credor, Grand Seiko and Prospex watches. And the Spring Drive has been combined with a decidedly more traditional face, with both new models featuring vitreous enamel dials. Available in either white or black, the enamel dials are once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who are adept at producing enamel dials of high-quality and in large quantities, but relatively low prices. The clean and slightly retro dial design, however, is the work of the design studio founded by Japanese industrial designer Riki Watanabe. After his death in 2013, the design of his work was entrusted to his colleague, who stuck closely to Watanabe’s ideals of functionality and beauty in the conception of the watch. The dial is characterised by a striking clarity thanks to the high contrast between the hands, hour markers and dial, as well as Arabic numerals in Didoni typeface, a favourite of Watanabe. Notably, the date is properly integrated into the dial design with a date wheel that matches the colour of the dial, while the combination of the contrasting...

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Introducing the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Diver SJX Watches
Ming Jun 28, 2019

Introducing the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Diver

Ming Watches has enjoyed a cult following since its debut in 2017, thanks to its affordable, smartly designed watches. Conceived by a band of watch collectors in Malaysia and then manufactured in Switzerland, Ming made its debut with the affordable 17 Series before going upmarket with the 19 Series that includes a world time. Now the brand debuts its first dive watch – a 10-piece limited edition that boasts a depth rating of 1,250m. The 18.01 Abyss Concept was born after Ming acquired a pressure testing machine and decided to create a dive watch in the brand’s distinctive design language. It is essentially an exercise in styling a larger Ming watch and also the response to a frequent request from clients wanting a sports watch. Concise design Ming’s unique styling was borne of the collecting experience of its six founders share and their desire not to repeat common designs. That is probably more difficult on a dive watch, since the standard ingredients of a diver are well defined. The same design elements that characterised the 17 and 19 Series watches – like symmetry and clean, geometric shapes – have been employed on the 18.01 Abyss Concept, albeit with tweaks for maximum functionality underwater. The most fundamental element of a dive watch, the unidirectional, 60-click bezel, has a ceramic insert marked with an unusual redesign of the conventional, elapsed time scale. Filled with white Super-Luminova, the markings on the bezel co...

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HANDS-ON: The brand new Rado Captain Cook 42mm satiates the Goldilocks Syndrome sufferers out there Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook 42mm satiates Jan 21, 2019

HANDS-ON: The brand new Rado Captain Cook 42mm satiates the Goldilocks Syndrome sufferers out there

Constantly feeling like the Captain Cook offerings were either too big or too small? Problem solved. If you think about it objectively, watch collectors may be the most widespread sufferers of Goldilocks Syndrome out there. While many, regardless of interest, are picky about certain aspects of their life - what foods they eat, what colours … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The brand new Rado Captain Cook 42mm satiates the Goldilocks Syndrome sufferers out there appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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EDITOR’S PICK: This Laureato is the reason why you should always bet on black Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Sep 28, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: This Laureato is the reason why you should always bet on black

Editor’s note: What is it about an all-black watch that really gets the heart racing? I mean, it’s a neutral colour, like white, silver, or grey, yet just by adding a heavy dose of toner, an entire watch can be transformed. Case (and dial, and strap) in point, the black ceramic Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm. A luxury … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: This Laureato is the reason why you should always bet on black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: 5 new Panerai Radiomir 1940s – the Mediterraneo Edition, inspired by the deep blue sea Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir 1940s – the Mediterraneo Sep 3, 2018

INTRODUCING: 5 new Panerai Radiomir 1940s – the Mediterraneo Edition, inspired by the deep blue sea

Panerai has just dropped a quintet of new, boutique-only watches and they are straight fire. These watches, called the Mediterraneo Edition, are all in Radiomir 1940 cases, and include a 42mm steel automatic (PAM00933), a 45mm GMT and a 45mm GMT with power reserve (PAM00945 and PAM00946 respectively), a red gold 45mm automatic (PAM00934), and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: 5 new Panerai Radiomir 1940s – the Mediterraneo Edition, inspired by the deep blue sea appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: All thriller, no filler – Felix’s 5 favourites from SIHH 2018  Time+Tide
Jan 26, 2018

VIDEO: All thriller, no filler – Felix’s 5 favourites from SIHH 2018 

If you’ve been paying attention to my recent spate of best-of/top lists (and if you haven’t, what’s wrong with you?!), you’ll know that I have a sense of style and taste that is dazzling in its brilliance, mercurial in its consistency, and as sophisticated as white tie at a garden party. I’ve recently sung my … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: All thriller, no filler – Felix’s 5 favourites from SIHH 2018  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Montblanc channels the spirit of racing with the Timewalker Chronograph Automatic Time+Tide
Montblanc channels Jan 16, 2017

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Montblanc channels the spirit of racing with the Timewalker Chronograph Automatic

Walking into Montblanc’s revamped SIHH booth, it didn’t take long to work out what the overarching theme of 2017 would be. If the deconstructed racing chronograph suspended from the ceiling wasn’t enough of a clue, the booth staff in stark white racing firesuits certainly gave the game away. Montblanc’s off to the races, and in … ContinuedThe post GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Montblanc channels the spirit of racing with the Timewalker Chronograph Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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LIST: 4 pens that are considerably mightier than the sword Time+Tide
Montblanc s watches but we’ve Dec 12, 2016

LIST: 4 pens that are considerably mightier than the sword

We often wax lyrical about our love affair with Montblanc’s watches, but we’ve also got a soft spot for their famous writing instruments. We were lucky enough to come face-to-face with a selection of their absolute finest recently. It’s not often these golden, gem-encrusted rockstars of the written word, in their lavish presentation boxes even make it … ContinuedThe post LIST: 4 pens that are considerably mightier than the sword appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Historically important Girard Perregaux Pocket Watch with Three Golden Bridges Deployant
Girard-Perregaux Sep 20, 2011

Historically important Girard Perregaux Pocket Watch with Three Golden Bridges

As promised on Friday, here are the high resolution photographs of what was to me, the highlight of the show. The historically important Esmeralda, a wonderfully decorated, beautifully restored pocket watch tourbillon with three golden bridges. Historically important Girard Perregaux Pocket Watch with Three Golden Bridges And to give a flavour and spice to theRead More

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