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Highlights: Patek Philippe at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe May 21, 2023

Highlights: Patek Philippe at Christie’s Hong Kong

After covering the notable in the upcoming auction of an impressive single-owner collection, we now turn to the highlights in Christie’s main sale, Important Watches. Made up of 159 lots, the sale encompasses a remarkable line-up of Patek Philippe timepieces, from the quirky and historically important, like the brand’s smallest-known repeater, to the contemporary and magnificent Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002R featuring a special-order black dial. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. But the most significant watch in the sale is undoubtedly the ref. 2523 world time with a cloisonné dial depicting the North American continent, one of three known to exist. Given its importance and value, the ref. 2523 will be sold as the sole lot in a dedicated auction. The ref. 2523 will be sold at 7:00 pm on May 28 – more can be found here. The ref. 2523 with a cloisonné dial Lot 2306: Patek Philippe Pocket Watch with the Smallest Known Repeater Compact yet exceptional, this Patek Philippe pocket watch dates to 1888 and is just 24.5 mm in diameter. According to Christie’s, this pocket watch is smallest known minute repeater ever made by Patek Philippe. It was most likely commissioned by a Spanish or Latin American customer, as indicated by the margins on the movement in Spanish. This pocket watch has a white enamel dial with Roman numerals in black for the hours and oversized minute numerals in gilt print. Several hai...

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5980/1400G – May 20, 2023

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023

The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 19, 2023

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne at Phillips’ Hong Kong

Having seen covered the best of independent watchmaking as well as notable complications and artisanal timepieces in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, we turn to highlights from one brand: A. Lange & Söhne. Long a brand somewhat under the radar and appreciated only by enthusiasts, Lange started to pick up in desirability over the last three years, resulting in record prices at auction for rare or sought-after models. Consequently, Lange offerings at auctions in general have risen in quantity – but also quality with more and more unusual timepieces coming to market. The Phillips catalogue includes 16 Lange wristwatches and we pick out some of the best, including the 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst to an unusual Little Lange 1 Soirée with a bezel set with pink sapphires. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkunst Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk (first generation) Now discontinued in favour of the updated version, the original Zeitwerk is arguably one of Lange’s most important watches. It remains one of the few digital-display watches even over a decade after its launch in 2009 – and is probably the most mechanically robust and reliable.  This example is in white gold with a black dial, a high-contrast combination that made it the bestselling iteration of the first-generation models. It was the only version with a dark-colour dial; the other versions, namely yellow gold, pink gold, and platinum, ...

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Audubon” featuring May 17, 2023

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After round up the best examples of independent watchmaking on offer at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, let’s turn to notable complications and artisanal timepieces in the sale that takes place on May 24 and 25.  Amongst the highlights are easy choices like the Patek Philippe ref. 5016P, the most complicated watch made by the Geneva watchmaker at the time of its launch. Others might go under the radar (and perhaps be good buys), like the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mystérieuse with its transparent time display and floating hands. As for the artisanal, a highlight is undoubtedly the Vacheron Constantin “Audubon” featuring a cloisonné dial done by the famed Anita Porchet, arguably the best enameller in watchmaking.  Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 836: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060/000J-8434  by Anita Porchet Enamelling at its highest level is an art form equal to the best of complicated watchmaking. Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s earliest but also best known enamelled watches is the series inspired by drawings from Birds of America by John-James Audubon. The 19th century American naturalist documented most of the continent’s birds in the landmark tome, the pages of which served as inspiration for the series of watches. For the “Birds of America” series, Vacheron Constantin turned to the best enamelers of the day, including Muriel Sechaud and of course Anita Porchet. Going by t...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille May 16, 2023

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips kicks off its spring sale season in Hong Kong with the first watch auction to take place at its recently inaugurated regional headquarters in the West Kowloon Cultural District. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI is a 248-lot sale with a strong representation of contemporary independent watchmaking, including the cover lot, a Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain I in pink gold – the first example of this coveted watch to emerge at auction. Amongst the other offerings going on the block are works from prominent names like Kari Voutilainen and F.P. Journe. The sale includes under appreciated gems such as a Parmigiani Toric Chronograph from the early 2000s and a unique Atelier de Chronométrie featuring a gilt dial. And there’s also a unique Richard Mille that was once owned by a Brazilian footballer Bobby Firmino. The auction takes place on May 24 (lots 801-925) and May 25 (lots 926-1048). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed here. The cover lot of the sale Lot 832: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCC I) One of the top lots – maybe even the top lot – of the sale is the first example of the Chronomètre Contemporain by Rexhep Rexhepi. As we detailed in our review of the prototype, the RRCC I is a gentleman’s wristwatch in the mould of mid-20th century Swiss chronometers.  With its distinct arched lugs and enamel dial, the RRCCI is instantly recognisable despite its classical styling. Notably, the enamel dial is made of tw...

Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023 Time+Tide
Tudor stole May 11, 2023

Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023

At Tudor’s booth this year, the theme was evolution not revolution. While the titanium Pelagos 39 intensely stirred the best-modern-luxury-dive-watch pot, the brand’s main Watches & Wonders focus was the Black Bay range. Watch Andrew’s and Zach’s live reactions to the new releases below, and read on for a quick summary of each. Tudor Black … ContinuedThe post Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Closer Look at the Ressence Type 8S and Type 1 Round (w/ Video) Worn & Wound
Ressence Type 8S Apr 10, 2023

A Closer Look at the Ressence Type 8S and Type 1 Round (w/ Video)

It’s hard for a brand to stand out in the halls of Watches and Wonders. After all, the place is literally filled with some of the newest and finest horological creations. Yet Ressence manages to, even if they maintain a relatively low profile overall. Their booth isn’t elaborate, nor is there loud music or flashy lights to draw you in. Instead, their evenly lit room invites you in with a seat at a bar that doesn’t serve drinks, but rather a unique vision of watchmaking. And, naturally, it’s the watches themselves that make the booth stand out. While certainly in the realm of the high-end, their watches aren’t ornate or fussy. They aren’t traditional. There are no tourbillons or minute repeaters to ooh and awe at, nor gold or platinum to catch your eye with a glint. Instead, they are a reprieve from such things. Their watches look like precision technology from a future utopian world. And, well, that’s half true. Meeting with Ressence is a combination of seeing novelties and talking about manufacturing. A color change and how that affects tolerances. Years of R&D; to make already incredibly fine gaps between the moving components even finer. The word “micron” gets used with some frequency. They are a brand about precision technology, cleverly executed for a seemingly effortless result. This year, the focus was on two novelties: the Type 8S, and the Type 1 Round. The former was a new version of last year’s big announcement presented in a soothing sage gree...

Watches & Wonders 2023 Round Table: What We Liked and Didn’t Like at the World’s Biggest Watch Fair Quill & Pad
Apr 8, 2023

Watches & Wonders 2023 Round Table: What We Liked and Didn’t Like at the World’s Biggest Watch Fair

Watches and Wonders 2023 ran from Monday, March 27 to Saturday, April 1 at Palexpo in Geneva and was open to the public on the 1st and 2nd of April. It attracted a record 43,000 visitors! That’s nearly double last year’s 22,000 visitors, largely thanks to the opening up of China and Asian countries after the COVID-19 pandemic. The Quill & Pad team was there, and we sat down after the show to discuss what we liked and didn’t like about the 2023 fair.

In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
IWC Booth Apr 7, 2023

In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders

One of the most talked about releases this year came courtesy of IWC in the form of a new Ingenieur that takes the watch back to its Gerald Genta design era of history. You can see our hands-on impressions of that watch right here. The new watches take clear inspiration from the 1970s footprint, but offer a quite contemporary execution that won’t be mistaken for anything throwback. But that’s not all people were discussing at their year’s Watches & Wonders, the IWC booth made one of the biggest impressions of the whole fair, setting a funky ‘70s engineering aesthetic against the new watches, which even included a Mercedes C-111 mkIII concept car right in the booth.  During our visit to the booth, we ran into IWC CEO (and Worn & Wound Podcast alum) Chris Grainger, who gave us the scoop on the new watches and the booth itself. This watch was a long time coming, as you might imagine, and Chris takes us through some of the development of the design we see today. Oh, and those crown guards? It seems that we’re the only ones that spent any real time stressing about them. See more of our coverage of Watches & Wonders 2023 right here, and head over to our YouTube channel for more of our video content. The post In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Rolls Royce Phantom II” Apr 1, 2023

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Having covered the notable from independent watchmaking and complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction on April 5, we turn to timepieces that are all about artisanal crafts, ranging from cloisonné and marquetry. Amongst the highlight is a Patek Philippe Dome Clock depicting the African savannah in cloisonné and another is the Cartier Tortue ref. 2496 with the jeweller’s signature panther motif. Important Watches I takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2101: Cartier Tortue LM Panthere This wristwatch two enduring elements of Cartier design, a form case and the panther motif. It’s a large-size Tortue – French for “turtle” – with a panther on the dial in champleve enamel. The large variant of the Tortue (instead of the oversized “XL”), this measures 34 mm in diameter, giving the dial ample real estate for the panther. The panther’s visage is executed in champlevé, where the dial base is first engraved with the motif before being painted and fired. This is powered by the cal. 430 MC, an ultra-thin manual mechanical movement that is actually the Piaget cal. 430P. Accompanied by its box and papers, this has an estimate of HK$200,000-300,000, or about US$25,000-38,200. You can find out more in the catalogue. Lot 2131: Audemars Piguet “Rolls Royce Phantom II” Before becoming synonyms with the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet (AP) produced a diversity of elaborately decorated wrist- and pocket watc...

VIDEO: New Hublot timepieces presented by CEO Ricardo Guadalupe at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Hublot timepieces presented Mar 31, 2023

VIDEO: New Hublot timepieces presented by CEO Ricardo Guadalupe at Watches and Wonders 2023

Revolution Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto and Revolution Founder Wei Koh met up with Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe to get a closer look at Hublot’s diverse array of novelties that the brand presented at Watches and Wonders 2023. They got their hands on eye-catching new Hublot timepieces like the Big Bang Integrated Blue Sapphire, Big Bang Integrated […]

VIDEO: Bvlgari’s Antoine Pin presents brand new Octo Roma timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Bvlgari s Antoine Pin presents Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Bvlgari’s Antoine Pin presents brand new Octo Roma timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2023

After a decade of consecutive world records with the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari now shines the spotlight on the Bvlgari Octo Roma, a vaunted timepiece whose history is deeply intertwined with that of Bvlgari’s. At Watches and Wonders 2023, Antoine Pin, Managing Director of Bvlgari’s watch division, expounded on the Bvlgari Octo Roma’s significance and […]

VIDEO: New Cartier Tanks and Baignoire timepieces debut at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Cartier Tanks Mar 28, 2023

VIDEO: New Cartier Tanks and Baignoire timepieces debut at Watches and Wonders 2023

Eleonor Picciotto, Editor-at-Large of Revolution, and Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, introduce ravishing Cartier novelties, including the Tank Normale, Tank Américaine and Baignoire. Under the astute leadership of Cyrille Vigneron, Cartier has cemented its status as the maison with the most recognizable and sought-after case shapes. At Watches and Wonders 2023, Eleonor and Wei got […]

VIDEO: A Sneak Peek at Vacheron Constantin’s 2023 Novelties Revolution
Vacheron Constantin s 2023 Novelties Eleonor Mar 27, 2023

VIDEO: A Sneak Peek at Vacheron Constantin’s 2023 Novelties

Eleonor visits Vacheron Constantin’s manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates a couple of weeks before Watches and Wonders and the maison’s Style and Heritage Director, Christian Selmoni gives us a sneak preview of some of the novelties that will be launched at the fair. The retrograde complication is the theme for this year and we take a closer […]

Highlights: Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5016 Mar 23, 2023

Highlights: Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Having covered highlights from independent watchmakers at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on April 5. We look at eight notable lots. Some, like the platinum Patek Philippe ref. 5016 with its minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, are amongst the most valuable in the sale. But the catalogue also has value buys, notably including offerings from jewellers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue can be accessed here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5016P Lot 2137: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux One of the most poetic timepieces by the Parisian jeweller, the Pont des Amoureux was a watch that helped make Van Cleef & Arpels as a watchmaker. This watch is the original and cleanest version of the model, which was discontinued in 2019 and replaced by a revised version. The watch is all about a uniquely whimsical depiction of the passing of time. A double retrograde display takes the form of two figures: a lady with an umbrella indicates the hours whilst a gentleman marks the minutes. The two figures move towards one another over the course of 12 hours, until they meet and “kiss” on top of the bridge that overlooks the Seine river – this happens twice in a day, at midday and midnight. The dial is executed in grisaille enamel, a meticulous process that dates back to the 16th century. The techn...

Love at frost sight: Hublot collaborates with artist Daniel Arsham to make a 20-metre sundial in the snow Time+Tide
Hublot collaborates Mar 6, 2023

Love at frost sight: Hublot collaborates with artist Daniel Arsham to make a 20-metre sundial in the snow

When it comes to their ambassadors, Hublot is known for their stable of sporting superstars that have included Usain Bolt, Novak Djokovic and Diego Maradona. But over the last decade, the brand have also consistently aligned themselves with modern artists, making watches with the likes of Richard Orlinski, Shepard Fairey, Maxime Plescia-Buchi, Takashi Murakami and more. What’s … ContinuedThe post Love at frost sight: Hublot collaborates with artist Daniel Arsham to make a 20-metre sundial in the snow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five of the best action-movie watches you can still buy at retail Time+Tide
Feb 28, 2023

Five of the best action-movie watches you can still buy at retail

Watches in film, whether or not snobbish enthusiasts are willing to admit it to themselves, are some of the biggest motivators for people to get into watch collecting. First you fall in love with one watch, say the Submariner after watching Sean Connery suavely save the day. But, like a bag of potato chips, you … ContinuedThe post Five of the best action-movie watches you can still buy at retail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT Time+Tide
Bulova Wilton GMT When it Feb 21, 2023

HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT

When it comes to watch releases, 2022 was undoubtedly the year of the affordable GMT. As the world continued to flex it’s legs and travel again, watch brands were all to ready to provide the perfect wristwear for the occasion. And while some felt it best to package these watches as sporty offerings, Bulova decided … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ahead of Drive To Survive Season 5, a look at the watches of F1 Time+Tide
Feb 19, 2023

Ahead of Drive To Survive Season 5, a look at the watches of F1

The new season of Netflix’s Drive To Survive drops on February 24 (just in time for pre-season testing in Bahrain), and we can’t wait. And now’s the perfect time for a look at the watches of F1 to check out all the watch brand sponsors and their respective teams. Will we get some tasty new models … ContinuedThe post Ahead of Drive To Survive Season 5, a look at the watches of F1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Feb 19, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 37: Analog Tech and Retro Digital (Audio Edition)

This week’s episode of A Week in Watches is slightly different – it’s audio only. To make up for the lack of visuals, however, we have two hosts! Yes, both Zach Weiss and Blake Buettner jump on this time to discuss some new and exciting releases from Blancpain, Grand Seiko, and Autodromo. Check it out below, or tune in wherever you go to listen to your podcasts. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 37: Analog Tech and Retro Digital (Audio Edition) appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Rolex Air-King: A Classic Pilot's Watch Revamped at Watches & Wonders Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jan 31, 2023

Rolex Air-King: A Classic Pilot's Watch Revamped at Watches & Wonders

Only at Rolex can a watch dubbed a King be described as humble compared to other watches with less lofty but still commanding titles like Master. The Rolex Air-King, despite being the oldest existing model in the mega-brand’s star-studded lineup, has never attained the levels of mainstream popularity and collectability enjoyed by household-name watches like the Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, and (arguably) even the Yacht-Master. Rolex hopes to change that this year, however, making the newest version of the Air-King a headliner of its 2022 collection, unveiled this week at Watches & Wonders 2022 in Geneva. Aviation History The Rolex Air-King (technically Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King) traces its history all the way back to 1945, when it was launched as part of a trio of timepieces called the “Air Series” that celebrated the accomplishments of Britain’s Royal Air Force in World War II, alongside the discontinued Air-Giant and Air-Tiger. The Air-King, the last survivor of that collection designed “to honor the pioneers of aviation,” went through a number of evolutions throughout the years. The original model’s 34mm case (considered large at the time, believe it or not), cream-colored dial and manual wind movement would eventually be replaced by the now-familiar design most recently updated in 2016: a black dial with a 60-minute scale and inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock/60-minute position (a feature of historical pilots’ watches); large 3, 6, and ...